UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Kim on April 06, 2007, 01:03:33 am
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Just heard from Swiss land that James flashed The Great Shark Hunt at Chironico yesterday.
:great:
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8b?
With all these recent hard ascents this is nothing special.
Well done Youth :great:
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so no more doubts about the ganimede takeover being 8b uh?
its very good when someone does something special and stick to it. :bow: :thumbsup: :o
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james u r the one and only
chesney hawkes was just a fake
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Cripes! :great:
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(http://www.freakclimbing.com/images/news/2007_1/1486_james_pearson_great_shark_hunt_525.jpg)
A nice little pic courtesy of Simon Richardson
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It must be a right arse trying to get pictures of him on a problem, you've only ever got one chance. ;)
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Hot news on UKC (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=676) right now is that Keenus is tearing it up again is ticino.
Another 8b flash, plus two 8a+ flashes and another quick 8b. Crazy skills :bow:
His slightly disappointing adoption of Cocktalk for spreading this news has been rewarded with a thread of punters appalled at the tickmarks and questioning whether its really justifiable to fly to switzerland to boulder. ???
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well done james, you steely fingered beast!
as for the ranting about tick marks try flashing 8b, tick marks brush off. gimps.
Johnny shouldn't you be out walking?
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His slightly disappointing adoption of Cocktalk for spreading this news has been rewarded with a thread of punters appalled at the tickmarks and questioning whether its really justifiable to fly to switzerland to boulder. ???
They really are a bunch of fucking cretins aren't they!
bluebrad
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inteerestingly theres a list of 100 best climbers of 2007 on 8a.nu. james isn't on it. but those uber wads such as ekaitz maiz and melissa lippani are... (who?)
think someones fucked up the scores.
has anyone else flashed 8b?
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has anyone else flashed 8b?
of course not. youth is a monster.
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the best flasher of boulder problems in the world anyone!
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inteerestingly theres a list of 100 best climbers of 2007 on 8a.nu. james isn't on it. but those uber wads such as ekaitz maiz and melissa lippani are... (who?)
So why doesn't someone remind them?
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inteerestingly theres a list of 100 best climbers of 2007 on 8a.nu. james isn't on it. but those uber wads such as ekaitz maiz and melissa lippani are... (who?)
think someones fucked up the scores.
has anyone else flashed 8b?
I was thinking that earlier not only flashing 8b but 'The Promise' as well! 8a need to sort themselves out!
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inteerestingly theres a list of 100 best climbers of 2007 on 8a.nu. james isn't on it. but those uber wads such as ekaitz maiz and melissa lippani are... (who?)
So why doesn't someone remind them?
Aren't these lists based on scores entered? If you don't enter the race you aint gonna win a medal are ya.
Uber effort James, :great: who cares about scores and lists :whistle:
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Nah, 8a.nu is gospel. Maths never lies, ain't that right Dave :lol:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2145/2076233313_589941c0be_o.jpg)
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Aren't these lists based on scores entered? If you don't enter the race you aint gonna win a medal are ya.
No, Chris Sharma is on the list and he's not on 8a.nu. James is on 8a though, but he's clearly just not well enough known.
I notice that after a user comment on the list, Alex Honnald has been added. Are we all too British to make a fuss about our best climbers...?
8B flashes:
Keen Youth - 3
Rest of World - 0
I am amazed that hardly anyone seems aware of this, except those of us with an obsessive interest in bouldering. Never mind the rest of the world, over on ukc the general level of british awareness seems to be "8b flash...that sounds quite good...is it?".
Awesome stuff, by the way James! :thumbsup:
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The Cocktalk crew only care about ascents that have a massive E grade and even then they quickly turn every thread into an argument about why Indian Face should be upgraded or somesuch bollocks. Most of em probably don't understand how hard Font 8b is let alone how fucking amazing it is to be flashing problems this hard.
8a.nu don't have that excuse. It wouldn't have taken them long to find out that James is the best in the world at flashing / onsighting problems at the moment. i.e. the information is on their own site. ::)
Fantastic effort. 8)
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If that boulder had been in Portugal they'd probably be accusing him of child abduction...
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inteerestingly theres a list of 100 best climbers of 2007 on 8a.nu. james isn't on it. but those uber wads such as ekaitz maiz and melissa lippani are... (who?)
So why doesn't someone remind them?
Aren't these lists based on scores entered? If you don't enter the race you aint gonna win a medal are ya.
Uber effort James, :great: who cares about scores and lists :whistle:
james is on they're rankings.
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Who made you a doctor? 'Their' - idiot. I want to be able to flash 8b. He's not bad is he, this 'keen yoof' you speak of? first met him at Curbar I did, climbing in his nappy he was, didn't burn him off then either. Cunt.
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whatevs. would you rather i spelt correctly or sorted out your arrythmia. well?
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I was stronger than him when he was 5
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2nd toughest in the infants?
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back to the underworld dylan
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2nd toughest in the infants?
He was, before he took a hundred days off from training to dub bass with his headman.
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it must feel nice to go, flash 8b, and spend the rest of the day just having fun with friends.
or go to a restaurant and have tagliatelle.
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yeah, just deserves for all the hard work spent training. bon effort james
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back to the underworld dylan
Would have thought he have ticked that by now. And Underpants.
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Would have thought he have ticked that by now. And Underpants.
No, too much lager, lager, lager.
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I've flashed on the 8b if that counts.
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Well done that man - James, do you realize how much skin I left behind on Schule' before you flashed it? Funny that, I also went on Ganymede before you flashed that one aswell. Please can you stop stealing my power cells? Yes, I understand, they work better than old chalk particles, but you're making me look weak. Also, I happen to remember when you were nought but a youth hanging around Stanage a few years back, brushing holds for the 'A' team and falling off V5's - what the fuck have you been doing? Little bugger. Nice to catch up for five minutes in Chironico - if I had known what you were about to go off and do, I would have broken your little fingers. :bow:
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WOW! According to 8a.nu r-man is the 18th best boulder IN THE WORLD!!! :o Have some karma that man, bon effort.
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Gaz Parry's opinions:
http://gazparryclimbing.blogspot.com/
Sissyfuss is the only one I've tried, to be honest if it was 7b+ I would like to think that I would have got up it!
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Gaz Parry Wrote: Strangely Lager Lager felt the hardest!!!
It always does!
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smit also did Salamandre yesterday in a sesh. don t think its 8a+ with the kneebars and heel toes.
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Lager lager is nails. I think its getting a new (original/ unpublicised) name in the new guide which will please any who, like me, hated Lager, lager. We used to call it The Ramp.
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i call it jims siege perilous
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We used to call it The Ramp.
Better name but doesn't sit as well with Underworld. Never mind. I like traditional names too.
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I do believe its geting the absolutely brilliant name of 'Dave's Groove.' I don't know how they come up with them. I should add this is Dave's name not Ste's. All or any of the above could be wrong.
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What you on about, I nearly did this summer? when I get up there in good conditions it'll be piss
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have you not seen the end of "...and the last crusade"? ;D
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yeah its called the groove - as it was originally named. god knows who called it lager, lager, lager but it certainly wasn't dave.
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Personally I think it should remain as Lager Lager Lager, if only for historical reasons, lets face it everyones going to continue calling it Lager Lager Lager. "Dave's Groove", hmm, thats original. "The Groove" is at least a good traditional name for a super classic and stout test piece, but like I say why not leave it as is.
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i'm not going to call it lager... it is a terrible name. so is dave's groove but it's his perogative
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i'm not going to call it lager... it is a terrible name. so is dave's groove but it's his perogative
Well IAM going to call it Lager Lager Lager, so there :P. I disagree that it's his pergoative (it has become a well established moniker), we're not talking about some shit line on a rhyolite boulder half way up Scafell - this is THE gritstone 7c. Are you really saying that if Ben Moon suddenly decided to change the name of Hubble everyone would think it was a fine? It's a poor precedent, in my lowly view... he could have at least changed it to a decent name.
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You can be the only one then, I'll probably stick to calling it The Ramp, seeing as that is what it is. Have these fools ever seen a groove?
Just to reiterate, Lager, lager is the shittest name ever given to a problem, the sooner its forgotten the better.
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:agree:
LL is a pants fanboy bullshit name
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I think i'll call any future problem anything i like then?!
Dave called it the groove, so its called the groove; as he did the first ascent. Lager, lager is a fully shit name for a top problem that follows an obvious natural feature.
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no greg it got called lager by someone else, not dave. the fact that this got wrote up in the guide is immaterial if it's the wrong name. if, god forbid, i'm mistaken and dave originally called it that and now wants to change it then i'm going to call it groove lager ramp :-\
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What about.......
"Davey B's Uber Mega 7c Fekkin Ramp"?
Catchy eh?
Call it what you want, it's still a cool line.
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no greg it got called lager by someone else, not dave. the fact that this got wrote up in the guide is immaterial if it's the wrong name. if, god forbid, i'm mistaken and dave originally called it that and now wants to change it then i'm going to call it groove lager ramp :-\
Yeah ok I guess I'm not taking the fact he didn't name it into account. Even so, as JB points out, it's a ramp not a groove.
You can be the only one then, I'll probably stick to calling it The Ramp
To which I would respond: "Oh, you mean Lager Lager Lager". The point is whenever I've heard anyone refer to this problem they call it Lager Lager Lager (not The Ramp, The Groove or any variations on this) which I suspect will stick, at least for a while.
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"The problem formerly known as Lager Lager Larer".
But is Lager.... is a toss name. Especially as some people seem to then misread it and call it "Larger Larger Larger". Dave's Groove ain't a shit name it just doesn't make any sense. might as well call it Slab & Crack, or Valkyrie.
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Maybe we should call it Dave's Problem. Covers all bases.
Although I'll probably think of it as "Jim's Siege Perilous" from this day forward.
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Yeah ok I guess I'm not taking the fact he didn't name it into account. Even so, as JB points out, it's a ramp not a groove.
Haven't you got some reporting to do on things going down on your patch, rather than arguing about a problem name? ;)
Mr Buys' 8a.nu (http://web.8a.nu/(3yr2vi551en1js45g0agx245)/scorecard/AscentList.aspx?UserId=18228&AscentType=1&AscentClass=0&AscentListTimeInterval=1&AscentListViewType=0)
Edit: and back nearly on topic it says on UKC that James onsighted Deathwatch by headtorch - effort!
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no greg it got called lager by someone else, not dave. the fact that this got wrote up in the guide is immaterial if it's the wrong name. if, god forbid, i'm mistaken and dave originally called it that and now wants to change it then i'm going to call it groove lager ramp :-\
Yeah ok I guess I'm not taking the fact he didn't name it into account. Even so, as JB points out, it's a ramp not a groove.
You can be the only one then, I'll probably stick to calling it The Ramp
To which I would respond: "Oh, you mean Lager Lager Lager". The point is whenever I've heard anyone refer to this problem they call it Lager Lager Lager (not The Ramp, The Groove or any variations on this) which I suspect will stick, at least for a while.
Well Ive always called it the ramp - and I live on the other side of the planet. If its got all the way over here then it must be pretty common :shrug:
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what? you only moved over from yorkshire about two years ago
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Shush... :)
Anyway - Im back for a month in a few weeks :dance1:
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"The problem formerly known as Lager Lager Larer".
But is Lager.... is a toss name.
You're just bitter.
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Lager Lager is a good name. Bog off.
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In regards to the name of the ramp at earl crag, I understand that in the new guide it's going in as 'dave's groove' which is what I roughly what I called it originally. A few months after the first ascent a new name was suggested when Mick Jonstone kindly took some pictures of me and wrote an article for On the Edge. So the first time the name went into the public eye it was called Lager Lager Lager. Ben Moon had just done Underworld and the two names fitted nicely. It was as I recall the same evening I did Underpants.
I don't believe its been officially renamed. I'm sure that people will still call it Lager Lager Lager, the Groove, Dave's Groove, and I'm sure someone will think of a few derogatory ones as well. I am glad though that Steve took the trouble to ask me which name I would prefer in the new guide as there is now a record of the original name. In any event I can't think of a name that is as good as the climb!
David Buchanan
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In any event I can't think of a name that is as good as the climb!
i think you're probably bang on there dave
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Any name w/Dave, Keef, Mick, Pat, or Gav is instant class.