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the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: SA Chris on March 19, 2007, 03:31:40 pm

Title: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: SA Chris on March 19, 2007, 03:31:40 pm
Choices aside, wondering how may the regular chuffers on here have actually climbed on. I reckon leading and completing at least one route qualifies.

1. St. Govan’s
2. Stanage
3. Landing Craft Bay, Lundy
4. Scafell
5. Dinas Cromlech
6. Gogarth Bay
7. Malham Cove
8. Roaches
9. Bosigran
10. Froggatt
11. Huntsman’s Leap
12. High Tor
13. Clogwyn Du’r Arddu
14. Mother Carey’s Kitchen
15. Portland
16. Tremadog
17. Almscliff
18. Lower Sharpnose
19. Pen Trwyn
20. Llanberis Slate

Ones in italics are the only ones I have never go to. Not bad, I suppose, seeing I climbed regularly in England and Wales for 6 years.

Apologies if this offends any of the dyed in the wool boulderers.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Bonjoy on March 19, 2007, 03:37:03 pm
Have done a route at all except Bosigran and Scafell
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Andy B on March 19, 2007, 03:43:32 pm
Have done a route at all but High tor and Lower Sharpnose.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Rice Boy on March 19, 2007, 04:17:40 pm
Have done a route at Stanage (Twisting Crack, High Neb) . . .  and seconded a few things on Scafell and Froggatt.

If they included Wimberry and Southern Sandstone, I'd be able to claim at least one other crag.

Awfully poor show what.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: AndiT on March 19, 2007, 04:21:33 pm
Got
Got
Need
Got
Got
Got
Got
GOT
Need
Got
Got
Need
Need
Got
Got
Got
Got
Got
Got
Got
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Paz on March 19, 2007, 04:26:15 pm
Have done a route at all but High tor and Lower Sharpnose.

They're stamina pumpy Andy, but really quality.

Need Malham and Scafell and Birch Quarry.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: SA Chris on March 19, 2007, 04:38:19 pm
GOT

Does the GOT in capitals for Roaches mean ticked every route, or just spent in excess of a year of your life there, cumulatively.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Fiend on March 19, 2007, 04:53:07 pm
Ugh, just being reminded of this farce makes the despair sink into my bones. The top 10 crags are on that list, but nowhere near in the right order. St fucking Govans for fucks sake grumble grumble.

Climbed all except:

Scafell - you must be joking, I'd need a helicopter up.

Malham - not got round to it yet.

Huntsmans Leap - only seconded a route there, yet.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: webbo on March 19, 2007, 04:59:50 pm
lundy,huntsmans and lower sharpnose to do.i guess they will wait for my old age.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Gus on March 19, 2007, 05:21:01 pm
I need two, Lundy and Cloggy!!
Hopefully this will be the summer for getting to them!
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: dave on March 19, 2007, 05:29:30 pm
i only got 9. landing craft bay in lundy is a strange choice, its only got 2 routes that anyone does.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: IanP on March 19, 2007, 05:30:34 pm

Climbed all except:

Malham - not got round to it yet.


Can't believe that you haven't been to Malham!

All except:

Lundy - never been not that likely to in all honesty
Scafell - should have done the walk in at least once, maybe one day if I return to trad climbing
Amscliff - bouldered only, not really that tempted by the routes given that the whole of peak grit is much closer for gritstone routing.
Portland - Spain or France always seemed a more attractive option for sport climbing 5 or 6 hours travelling away.

Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: cofe on March 19, 2007, 05:57:45 pm
13. lucky for some.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Will Hunt on March 19, 2007, 06:03:09 pm
Ive only been to two of them  ::)

Loved both the Roaches and Llanberis Slate. Must get out more.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Teaboy on March 19, 2007, 06:14:13 pm
Full house! Do I win a prize?

 
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Fiend on March 19, 2007, 06:15:26 pm
i guess they will wait for my old age.


What do you mean, "wait"? ;)


Malham, well, I'm not a huge fan of inland limestone, not enough to drive 2 hours anyway. But still keen to go. Have been to Kilnsey, Gordale, Giggleswick, Robin Proctor and Pot Scar tho...
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: IanP on March 19, 2007, 06:45:25 pm

Malham, well, I'm not a huge fan of inland limestone, not enough to drive 2 hours anyway. But still keen to go. Have been to Kilnsey, Gordale, Giggleswick, Robin Proctor and Pot Scar tho...

I'll give you Kilnsey and Gordale - though for quality trad lines at a reasonable(ish) grade (I guess that's what you'd be after) I would say Malham is the best of the big 3 - but having been to Gigglewick, Robin Proctor and Pot Scar and not Malham is not really forgiveable  :-\
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Somebody's Fool on March 19, 2007, 10:11:18 pm
Eleven.  Unfortunately one of these is Malham.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: AndyR on March 20, 2007, 05:58:42 am
Haven't done cloggy and scafell - do you spot a theme?
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: SA Chris on March 20, 2007, 07:28:59 am
i only got 9. landing craft bay in lundy is a strange choice, its only got 2 routes that anyone does.

Got a dozen or so classics? Probably not the best crag on the island (that would probably be the Diamond), but as an "area" there is a good spread of great routes.

I think Lundy is one of the most special places to climb in Britain, and spending a week there with a bunch onf mates is a great experience. Feels like you are on a different planet.

And Sloper will i ever see my Lundy guide again?
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: BenF on March 20, 2007, 08:23:19 am
1. St. Govan’s
2. Stanage
7. Malham Cove
8. Roaches
10. Froggatt
15. Portland
16. Tremadog
17. Almscliff
19. Pen Trwyn
20. Llanberis Slate

I've climbed a lot at all of these crags but was utterly shocked to realise just how many of the others I haven't been to yet or have done very little at so far.  Does spending probably half my life at Pen Trwyn and the slate mean I can get a few extra ticks?  Or more likely, do I lose the right to have any ticks for wasting so much of my youth in a huge quarry?

Next should be a top 20 esoteric crag list (you know, like Taylor Park, Goblin Coombe, Churchill Slabs or Humphrey Head etc etc).  Any takers on starting a list?
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: SA Chris on March 20, 2007, 08:26:03 am
Next should be a top 20 esoteric crag list (you know, like Taylor Park, Goblin Coombe, Churchill Slabs or Humphrey Head etc etc).  Any takers on starting a list?

Fiend? He seems to love that stuff.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: BenF on March 20, 2007, 08:35:17 am
Yeah, that's what I was thinking too.  Maybe there's a guidebook waiting to be written there... gather together all the minor, loose and dirty crags that get single paragraph descriptions at the back of normal guidebooks and put them into one bumper annual to sell to visiting foreigners making their first forays onto UK rock.  Should ensure we don't get any more foreign visitors burning us off on our own overgraded testpieces.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Fiend on March 20, 2007, 09:00:55 am
LOL, it's a fine idea!

(P.S. Have done Goblin Combe and Churchill Rocks)
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: BenF on March 20, 2007, 09:11:24 am
(P.S. Have done Churchill Rocks)

That makes two of us then.  How about Sand Point?
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: SA Chris on March 20, 2007, 09:13:15 am
Done Goblin Coombe too. Used to choose it over Avon for evening climbing from Bristol. Remember belaying Sam "Hurt" when he took a monster whipped off an E3 (Israel Calling?) there and just about impaled himself on a tree branch. Luckily the branch broke before it did too much damage. Great place for collecting ticks (not the guidebook kind).
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Bonjoy on March 20, 2007, 09:17:50 am
Have also been to GC. Seconded Mark Turnbull on a new route (E2/3 can't recall the name) many moons ago
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Fiend on March 20, 2007, 09:21:53 am
That makes two of us then.  How about Sand Point?

Oh yes :dance1:

Went back recently to try a highball wall there, but the tide came in.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: BenF on March 20, 2007, 09:27:58 am
Remember belaying Sam "Hurt" when he took a monster whipped off an E3 (Israel Calling?) there and just about impaled himself on a tree branch.

Must be something about GC.  On my first visit there many years ago (ie whilst still at school) I saw a lad fall from that route (I think) and hit the ground after either dislodging or unclipping all his gear.  It was a little disturbing seeing him hit the ground pretty much back first, roll around in pain etc (I'm certain the guy was okay but he was taken to hospital via ambulance).  Could have put me off climbing at a young age, instead I just learned about clipping properly.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: BenF on March 20, 2007, 09:29:48 am
That makes two of us then.  How about Sand Point?

Oh yes :dance1:

Went back recently to try a highball wall there, but the tide came in.

You are the daddy!  If you've been to Ham Hill and the eastern side of Brean Down I'll wad you. 
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Fiend on March 20, 2007, 09:50:49 am
Oooh so close....only one out of two I'm afraid* (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=2696)

P.S. Obligatory Goblin Combe story: On one trip there, I was soloing, and soloed a VS up a groove in the left end of the main crag - and part way up had to trundle a wobbly brief-case sized block out of a slot mmmm.



* P.P.S. If you're thinking of wadding me anyway, you shouldn't - because you gave me waddage for a "generous offer with the CDs", and actually I don't know if I'm going to give them away after all as I quite like both, so I didn't deserve that.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Pantontino on March 20, 2007, 09:56:18 am
18 - just Portland and lower sharpnose left for me to climb at. I have done routes at Goblin Combe and Humphrey Head though.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: BenF on March 20, 2007, 10:06:35 am
Oooh so close....only one out of two I'm afraid

Oh, unlucky mate.  Am very pleased to see that you've climbed up at Hammus Hillus (Roman name).  I don't suppose you've done any of the crappy eliminate bouldering there?  No, didn't think so.  That's because you didn't grow up near there and spend much most of the time that you should have been at sixth form college in Yeovil at Ham Hill instead working out silly traverses and dynos on dirty rock.  It's got a special place in my heart though and when I occasionally visit there when staying at my parents, I still know exactly where every hold is and just how they will feel, despite moving away over ten years ago. 

As for the waddage, I'm tempted to give you some just for going to Ham Hill and actually climbing.  But the CD waddage still stands because I gave it for the offer you made and you cannot deny that you made an offer.  It just turns out that you may have been hasty in making that offer.  As they say, it's the thought that counts.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: corniceman on March 20, 2007, 11:18:27 am
Have climbed at all except Lundy and Scafell. That'll change very soon as I have to do Broad Stand (diff)as part of something else. I bricking it....does anyone have any beta?
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: andy popp on March 20, 2007, 12:33:48 pm
I've got seventeen out of the twenty, but the list is pretty dubious. So five further contenders:
1. Avon
2. Curbar (over Froggatt)
3. Chee Tor (over High Tor)
4. Idwal (slabs and walls)
5. Lliwedd or Tryan

Oh, yeah, and Beachy Head
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: AndiT on March 20, 2007, 12:39:17 pm
And not a single crag in the Churnet!
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: SA Chris on March 20, 2007, 01:15:19 pm
1. Avon

Over what? Are you taking the piss?
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: andy popp on March 20, 2007, 01:33:59 pm
Quote

Over what? Are you taking the piss?

Absolutely not! An essential part of the English cragging experience.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: AndiT on March 20, 2007, 01:47:29 pm
I suppose Avon is one of those which would be just as at home in the Top Twenty as the Bottom Twenty, a bit like Doris.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: SA Chris on March 20, 2007, 01:54:06 pm
Quote

Over what? Are you taking the piss?

Absolutely not! An essential part of the English cragging experience.

While living in Bristol I had a love hate relationship with the place. Loved it during FMD, hated it the rest of the time. Only routes I really enjoyed were on unquarried Suspension Bridge Butress.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Paz on March 20, 2007, 03:59:36 pm
Goblin fucking Combe lads, honestly.  It's the local equivalent of stanage. 

The fact that I like Avon and my dodgy ear related DWS worries may not be unrelated. 

I walked over to that quarry on the eastern side of Brean once.  Didn't do anything.  It looked bum. 

And I've always wanted to go to Sand point, to check out the cracks and shit, but never met anyone who had, until of all, people my former head of department told me his daughter goes there quite a bit.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: grimer on March 20, 2007, 10:26:28 pm
climbed on avon a couple opf weeks ago. so good. I would say it's comparable to stoney middleton - polished, not very beautiful, and dissed by the uninitiated, but the routes on both are brilliant, full of character and history. If I were to pick 20 great E4s in the Peak, at least 3 or 4 would be on Stoney.

And Avon has much less competition.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Fiend on March 20, 2007, 10:29:17 pm
 :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: grimer on March 20, 2007, 10:31:39 pm
What does that mean?
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: cofe on March 20, 2007, 10:35:28 pm
gladiator, put your sword back in it's sheaf and let him live?
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Pantontino on March 20, 2007, 11:54:08 pm
Cofe, that's double wrong: apostrophe crime, plus, sssshurely the man loses his life when the thumb is down?

I did a great route at Avon once. Yellow Edge I think it was called. Very fine.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: AndyR on March 21, 2007, 04:53:13 am
Shurely 'sheath'?

Yep - both Yellow Edge and Amanita are top routes - there are many that are truely terrible though......
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: andy popp on March 21, 2007, 07:33:08 am
Glad you liked Avon Grimer.I kind of know what you mean about the Stoney comparison, but in reality, there is no comparison. Avon has a range and scope of styles and length that Stoney can't hope to match. Put it this way I've done 3 routes at Stoney and 150+ at Avon, many, many every bit as good as Yellow Edge or Amanita (Bold as Love, Pinkginsane for starters) Where else can you find this within a city's limits?
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: AndiT on March 21, 2007, 08:42:10 am
Grimer, what would your top twenty peak E4's be then, actually make it ten?  :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: webbo on March 21, 2007, 08:42:55 am
i've climbed at avon and done yellow edge.its one of the reasons i'm a boulderer these days. ;)
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2007, 09:53:43 am
Shurely 'sheath'?


Unless some gladiators did actually carry their swords around in bundles of grain or piles of paper.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: grimer on March 21, 2007, 09:59:32 am
Grimer, what would your top twenty peak E4's be then, actually make it ten?  :thumbsup:
I'll have a think (this is where it turns out I've only done 8 )
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: AndiT on March 21, 2007, 12:15:05 pm
That's why I thought it'd be better at ten!

1. Caesarian (Hen Cloud)
1. Ramshaw Crack (Alderly Cliff :whistle:)
3. Quietus Righthand (Stanage)
4. DNA (Harston, not technically Peak, but in Peak guide)
5. Borstal Breakout (Hen Cloud)
6. Old Friends (Stanage)
7. Strapadictomy (Froggatt...I'm tall it's E4)
8. Wings of Unreason (Skyline...I'm short it's E4)
9. Chameleon (Hen Cloud)
10. License to Run (Roaches)

Nothing at Stoney, or Limestone in general I'm afraid, probably in a top twenty though...

Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: SA Chris on March 21, 2007, 12:17:29 pm
8. Wings of Unreason (Skyline...I'm short

Cough, cough, splutter.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: corniceman on March 21, 2007, 01:35:46 pm
10 or so of the best E4s in Peak.

Jermyn Street
High Street
Old friends (E3?)
Prophet of Doom
Apocalypse
Darl
Oliver
Bitter Fingers
White Wall
Chameleon
Colnel Bogey
Cabage Crack
Pick Pocket (E3?)
Kellog

Think theres others at Stoney that are amongst the best E3s although they may be harder now such as Wee Doris, Our Father, Traffic light etc

Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: cofe on March 21, 2007, 03:00:03 pm
Cofe, that's double wrong: apostrophe crime, plus, sssshurely the man loses his life when the thumb is down?

I did a great route at Avon once. Yellow Edge I think it was called. Very fine.

my bad on the catapostrophe and my sheef. i'll be one of those people who spells 'lose' with two 'o's soon. although i did think the thumbs up/down thing was actually historically incorrect, i.e. thumbs down means he lives. if i could get on the internet i'd check.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Nigel on March 21, 2007, 05:20:33 pm
Ticked 17 of the 20, an extremely severe at each. Does that mean I'm not a boulderer? I'm confused.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: clm on March 21, 2007, 06:04:02 pm
what a total crock of shit!!!
Three crags in pembroke and yet only one from the lakes and two from snowdonia.
Was this a UK list?  None of them ever been north of the border?
And since when was portland or llanberis slate a "crag".
These people make me sick.  Wankers :wank:
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Andy F on March 21, 2007, 09:02:54 pm
what a total crock of shit!!!
Three crags in pembroke and yet only one from the lakes and two from snowdonia.
Was this a UK list?  None of them ever been north of the border?
And since when was portland or llanberis slate a "crag".
These people make me sick.  Wankers :wank:

Yeah  :agree: , and nothing in Lancashire as well  :shrug:. Muppets. They must have been  :pissed: when they came up with that list.

Should have had Chapel Head, Kilnsey and Pex on that list if you ask me  :goodidea:
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Somebody's Fool on March 21, 2007, 09:11:21 pm
Does that mean I'm not a boulderer? I'm confused.

It means you're well on your way to becoming a British trad wad. 

Next thing you know you'll be climbing 5c. And downgrading E9s.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: SA Chris on March 22, 2007, 07:25:30 am
what a total crock of shit!!!
Three crags in pembroke and yet only one from the lakes and two from snowdonia.
Was this a UK list?  None of them ever been north of the border?
And since when was portland or llanberis slate a "crag".

Why i started with "choices aside". It was England and Wales, Scotland not mentioned. And some of their choices stretch the interpretation of "crag" somewhat.

Also only one crag gets a mention on the entire coast between Bosigran and Mother Carey's. Plenty of other adventures to be had in between.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: BenF on March 22, 2007, 08:15:03 am
...And where the fuck was Woodwell in the list?   :-\  Shocking.  What's anything at Pembroke got on Woodwell eh?
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Somebody's Fool on March 22, 2007, 11:33:24 am
...And where the fuck was Woodwell in the list?   :-\  Shocking.  What's anything at Pembroke got on Woodwell eh?

The necessaries to be featured in a top 20 list of anything?

Having never been to Woodwell I feel I am well qualified to say the routes there aren't in the same league as those at Pembroke.

Maybe the photos of Woodwell are deceptive and the routes aren't really 10ft high.  If so I'll be willing to eat humble pie.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: BenF on March 22, 2007, 12:34:45 pm
Maybe the photos of Woodwell are deceptive and the routes aren't really 10ft high.  If so I'll be willing to eat humble pie.

Ten foot?  That's a highball at Woodwell.  Most cruxes involve keeping your feet off the mat!
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Fiend on March 22, 2007, 12:37:48 pm
The better ones involve keeping your arse off the mat!
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: BenF on March 22, 2007, 12:40:09 pm
And the really good problems are so lowball, there's no room for a mat underneath.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Monolith on March 22, 2007, 12:44:42 pm
Have reinforced the arse end of my pants for Saturday as advised.
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Monolith on March 22, 2007, 01:00:20 pm
Seems a bit pointless smiting someone Fiend when you could just tell them in a thread non? But true, it is doing my head in now!

Is Woodwell a viable option for the weekend or seepage a problem?
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Fiend on March 22, 2007, 01:05:41 pm
Sorry, no offence intended. You did get wadded for it too which slightly defies belief.

Anyway you'll need reinforced arse trousers in case you meet any of the locals...
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: Paz on March 22, 2007, 02:03:08 pm
Cofe. you're right about the thumb thing.  Ridley Scott was informed of this fact during the making of Gladiator but he decided to stick with the wrong (thumbs up=live) version to avoid confusing the dumb yanks. 
Title: Re: Planet Fear "Top 20" Crags
Post by: clm on March 24, 2007, 11:32:26 pm
make that three in ssnowdonia, i missed tremadog
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