UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: SA Chris on March 19, 2007, 03:31:40 pm
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Choices aside, wondering how may the regular chuffers on here have actually climbed on. I reckon leading and completing at least one route qualifies.
1. St. Govan’s
2. Stanage
3. Landing Craft Bay, Lundy
4. Scafell
5. Dinas Cromlech
6. Gogarth Bay
7. Malham Cove
8. Roaches
9. Bosigran
10. Froggatt
11. Huntsman’s Leap
12. High Tor
13. Clogwyn Du’r Arddu
14. Mother Carey’s Kitchen
15. Portland
16. Tremadog
17. Almscliff
18. Lower Sharpnose
19. Pen Trwyn
20. Llanberis Slate
Ones in italics are the only ones I have never go to. Not bad, I suppose, seeing I climbed regularly in England and Wales for 6 years.
Apologies if this offends any of the dyed in the wool boulderers.
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Have done a route at all except Bosigran and Scafell
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Have done a route at all but High tor and Lower Sharpnose.
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Have done a route at Stanage (Twisting Crack, High Neb) . . . and seconded a few things on Scafell and Froggatt.
If they included Wimberry and Southern Sandstone, I'd be able to claim at least one other crag.
Awfully poor show what.
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Got
Got
Need
Got
Got
Got
Got
GOT
Need
Got
Got
Need
Need
Got
Got
Got
Got
Got
Got
Got
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Have done a route at all but High tor and Lower Sharpnose.
They're stamina pumpy Andy, but really quality.
Need Malham and Scafell and Birch Quarry.
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GOT
Does the GOT in capitals for Roaches mean ticked every route, or just spent in excess of a year of your life there, cumulatively.
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Ugh, just being reminded of this farce makes the despair sink into my bones. The top 10 crags are on that list, but nowhere near in the right order. St fucking Govans for fucks sake grumble grumble.
Climbed all except:
Scafell - you must be joking, I'd need a helicopter up.
Malham - not got round to it yet.
Huntsmans Leap - only seconded a route there, yet.
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lundy,huntsmans and lower sharpnose to do.i guess they will wait for my old age.
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I need two, Lundy and Cloggy!!
Hopefully this will be the summer for getting to them!
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i only got 9. landing craft bay in lundy is a strange choice, its only got 2 routes that anyone does.
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Climbed all except:
Malham - not got round to it yet.
Can't believe that you haven't been to Malham!
All except:
Lundy - never been not that likely to in all honesty
Scafell - should have done the walk in at least once, maybe one day if I return to trad climbing
Amscliff - bouldered only, not really that tempted by the routes given that the whole of peak grit is much closer for gritstone routing.
Portland - Spain or France always seemed a more attractive option for sport climbing 5 or 6 hours travelling away.
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13. lucky for some.
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Ive only been to two of them ::)
Loved both the Roaches and Llanberis Slate. Must get out more.
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Full house! Do I win a prize?
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i guess they will wait for my old age.
What do you mean, "wait"? ;)
Malham, well, I'm not a huge fan of inland limestone, not enough to drive 2 hours anyway. But still keen to go. Have been to Kilnsey, Gordale, Giggleswick, Robin Proctor and Pot Scar tho...
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Malham, well, I'm not a huge fan of inland limestone, not enough to drive 2 hours anyway. But still keen to go. Have been to Kilnsey, Gordale, Giggleswick, Robin Proctor and Pot Scar tho...
I'll give you Kilnsey and Gordale - though for quality trad lines at a reasonable(ish) grade (I guess that's what you'd be after) I would say Malham is the best of the big 3 - but having been to Gigglewick, Robin Proctor and Pot Scar and not Malham is not really forgiveable :-\
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Eleven. Unfortunately one of these is Malham.
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Haven't done cloggy and scafell - do you spot a theme?
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i only got 9. landing craft bay in lundy is a strange choice, its only got 2 routes that anyone does.
Got a dozen or so classics? Probably not the best crag on the island (that would probably be the Diamond), but as an "area" there is a good spread of great routes.
I think Lundy is one of the most special places to climb in Britain, and spending a week there with a bunch onf mates is a great experience. Feels like you are on a different planet.
And Sloper will i ever see my Lundy guide again?
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1. St. Govan’s
2. Stanage
7. Malham Cove
8. Roaches
10. Froggatt
15. Portland
16. Tremadog
17. Almscliff
19. Pen Trwyn
20. Llanberis Slate
I've climbed a lot at all of these crags but was utterly shocked to realise just how many of the others I haven't been to yet or have done very little at so far. Does spending probably half my life at Pen Trwyn and the slate mean I can get a few extra ticks? Or more likely, do I lose the right to have any ticks for wasting so much of my youth in a huge quarry?
Next should be a top 20 esoteric crag list (you know, like Taylor Park, Goblin Coombe, Churchill Slabs or Humphrey Head etc etc). Any takers on starting a list?
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Next should be a top 20 esoteric crag list (you know, like Taylor Park, Goblin Coombe, Churchill Slabs or Humphrey Head etc etc). Any takers on starting a list?
Fiend? He seems to love that stuff.
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Yeah, that's what I was thinking too. Maybe there's a guidebook waiting to be written there... gather together all the minor, loose and dirty crags that get single paragraph descriptions at the back of normal guidebooks and put them into one bumper annual to sell to visiting foreigners making their first forays onto UK rock. Should ensure we don't get any more foreign visitors burning us off on our own overgraded testpieces.
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LOL, it's a fine idea!
(P.S. Have done Goblin Combe and Churchill Rocks)
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(P.S. Have done Churchill Rocks)
That makes two of us then. How about Sand Point?
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Done Goblin Coombe too. Used to choose it over Avon for evening climbing from Bristol. Remember belaying Sam "Hurt" when he took a monster whipped off an E3 (Israel Calling?) there and just about impaled himself on a tree branch. Luckily the branch broke before it did too much damage. Great place for collecting ticks (not the guidebook kind).
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Have also been to GC. Seconded Mark Turnbull on a new route (E2/3 can't recall the name) many moons ago
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That makes two of us then. How about Sand Point?
Oh yes :dance1:
Went back recently to try a highball wall there, but the tide came in.
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Remember belaying Sam "Hurt" when he took a monster whipped off an E3 (Israel Calling?) there and just about impaled himself on a tree branch.
Must be something about GC. On my first visit there many years ago (ie whilst still at school) I saw a lad fall from that route (I think) and hit the ground after either dislodging or unclipping all his gear. It was a little disturbing seeing him hit the ground pretty much back first, roll around in pain etc (I'm certain the guy was okay but he was taken to hospital via ambulance). Could have put me off climbing at a young age, instead I just learned about clipping properly.
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That makes two of us then. How about Sand Point?
Oh yes :dance1:
Went back recently to try a highball wall there, but the tide came in.
You are the daddy! If you've been to Ham Hill and the eastern side of Brean Down I'll wad you.
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Oooh so close....only one out of two I'm afraid* (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=2696)
P.S. Obligatory Goblin Combe story: On one trip there, I was soloing, and soloed a VS up a groove in the left end of the main crag - and part way up had to trundle a wobbly brief-case sized block out of a slot mmmm.
* P.P.S. If you're thinking of wadding me anyway, you shouldn't - because you gave me waddage for a "generous offer with the CDs", and actually I don't know if I'm going to give them away after all as I quite like both, so I didn't deserve that.
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18 - just Portland and lower sharpnose left for me to climb at. I have done routes at Goblin Combe and Humphrey Head though.
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Oooh so close....only one out of two I'm afraid
Oh, unlucky mate. Am very pleased to see that you've climbed up at Hammus Hillus (Roman name). I don't suppose you've done any of the crappy eliminate bouldering there? No, didn't think so. That's because you didn't grow up near there and spend much most of the time that you should have been at sixth form college in Yeovil at Ham Hill instead working out silly traverses and dynos on dirty rock. It's got a special place in my heart though and when I occasionally visit there when staying at my parents, I still know exactly where every hold is and just how they will feel, despite moving away over ten years ago.
As for the waddage, I'm tempted to give you some just for going to Ham Hill and actually climbing. But the CD waddage still stands because I gave it for the offer you made and you cannot deny that you made an offer. It just turns out that you may have been hasty in making that offer. As they say, it's the thought that counts.
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Have climbed at all except Lundy and Scafell. That'll change very soon as I have to do Broad Stand (diff)as part of something else. I bricking it....does anyone have any beta?
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I've got seventeen out of the twenty, but the list is pretty dubious. So five further contenders:
1. Avon
2. Curbar (over Froggatt)
3. Chee Tor (over High Tor)
4. Idwal (slabs and walls)
5. Lliwedd or Tryan
Oh, yeah, and Beachy Head
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And not a single crag in the Churnet!
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1. Avon
Over what? Are you taking the piss?
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Over what? Are you taking the piss?
Absolutely not! An essential part of the English cragging experience.
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I suppose Avon is one of those which would be just as at home in the Top Twenty as the Bottom Twenty, a bit like Doris.
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Over what? Are you taking the piss?
Absolutely not! An essential part of the English cragging experience.
While living in Bristol I had a love hate relationship with the place. Loved it during FMD, hated it the rest of the time. Only routes I really enjoyed were on unquarried Suspension Bridge Butress.
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Goblin fucking Combe lads, honestly. It's the local equivalent of stanage.
The fact that I like Avon and my dodgy ear related DWS worries may not be unrelated.
I walked over to that quarry on the eastern side of Brean once. Didn't do anything. It looked bum.
And I've always wanted to go to Sand point, to check out the cracks and shit, but never met anyone who had, until of all, people my former head of department told me his daughter goes there quite a bit.
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climbed on avon a couple opf weeks ago. so good. I would say it's comparable to stoney middleton - polished, not very beautiful, and dissed by the uninitiated, but the routes on both are brilliant, full of character and history. If I were to pick 20 great E4s in the Peak, at least 3 or 4 would be on Stoney.
And Avon has much less competition.
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:thumbsdown:
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What does that mean?
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gladiator, put your sword back in it's sheaf and let him live?
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Cofe, that's double wrong: apostrophe crime, plus, sssshurely the man loses his life when the thumb is down?
I did a great route at Avon once. Yellow Edge I think it was called. Very fine.
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Shurely 'sheath'?
Yep - both Yellow Edge and Amanita are top routes - there are many that are truely terrible though......
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Glad you liked Avon Grimer.I kind of know what you mean about the Stoney comparison, but in reality, there is no comparison. Avon has a range and scope of styles and length that Stoney can't hope to match. Put it this way I've done 3 routes at Stoney and 150+ at Avon, many, many every bit as good as Yellow Edge or Amanita (Bold as Love, Pinkginsane for starters) Where else can you find this within a city's limits?
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Grimer, what would your top twenty peak E4's be then, actually make it ten? :thumbsup:
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i've climbed at avon and done yellow edge.its one of the reasons i'm a boulderer these days. ;)
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Shurely 'sheath'?
Unless some gladiators did actually carry their swords around in bundles of grain or piles of paper.
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Grimer, what would your top twenty peak E4's be then, actually make it ten? :thumbsup:
I'll have a think (this is where it turns out I've only done 8 )
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That's why I thought it'd be better at ten!
1. Caesarian (Hen Cloud)
1. Ramshaw Crack (Alderly Cliff :whistle:)
3. Quietus Righthand (Stanage)
4. DNA (Harston, not technically Peak, but in Peak guide)
5. Borstal Breakout (Hen Cloud)
6. Old Friends (Stanage)
7. Strapadictomy (Froggatt...I'm tall it's E4)
8. Wings of Unreason (Skyline...I'm short it's E4)
9. Chameleon (Hen Cloud)
10. License to Run (Roaches)
Nothing at Stoney, or Limestone in general I'm afraid, probably in a top twenty though...
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8. Wings of Unreason (Skyline...I'm short
Cough, cough, splutter.
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10 or so of the best E4s in Peak.
Jermyn Street
High Street
Old friends (E3?)
Prophet of Doom
Apocalypse
Darl
Oliver
Bitter Fingers
White Wall
Chameleon
Colnel Bogey
Cabage Crack
Pick Pocket (E3?)
Kellog
Think theres others at Stoney that are amongst the best E3s although they may be harder now such as Wee Doris, Our Father, Traffic light etc
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Cofe, that's double wrong: apostrophe crime, plus, sssshurely the man loses his life when the thumb is down?
I did a great route at Avon once. Yellow Edge I think it was called. Very fine.
my bad on the catapostrophe and my sheef. i'll be one of those people who spells 'lose' with two 'o's soon. although i did think the thumbs up/down thing was actually historically incorrect, i.e. thumbs down means he lives. if i could get on the internet i'd check.
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Ticked 17 of the 20, an extremely severe at each. Does that mean I'm not a boulderer? I'm confused.
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what a total crock of shit!!!
Three crags in pembroke and yet only one from the lakes and two from snowdonia.
Was this a UK list? None of them ever been north of the border?
And since when was portland or llanberis slate a "crag".
These people make me sick. Wankers :wank:
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what a total crock of shit!!!
Three crags in pembroke and yet only one from the lakes and two from snowdonia.
Was this a UK list? None of them ever been north of the border?
And since when was portland or llanberis slate a "crag".
These people make me sick. Wankers :wank:
Yeah :agree: , and nothing in Lancashire as well :shrug:. Muppets. They must have been :pissed: when they came up with that list.
Should have had Chapel Head, Kilnsey and Pex on that list if you ask me :goodidea:
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Does that mean I'm not a boulderer? I'm confused.
It means you're well on your way to becoming a British trad wad.
Next thing you know you'll be climbing 5c. And downgrading E9s.
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what a total crock of shit!!!
Three crags in pembroke and yet only one from the lakes and two from snowdonia.
Was this a UK list? None of them ever been north of the border?
And since when was portland or llanberis slate a "crag".
Why i started with "choices aside". It was England and Wales, Scotland not mentioned. And some of their choices stretch the interpretation of "crag" somewhat.
Also only one crag gets a mention on the entire coast between Bosigran and Mother Carey's. Plenty of other adventures to be had in between.
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...And where the fuck was Woodwell in the list? :-\ Shocking. What's anything at Pembroke got on Woodwell eh?
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...And where the fuck was Woodwell in the list? :-\ Shocking. What's anything at Pembroke got on Woodwell eh?
The necessaries to be featured in a top 20 list of anything?
Having never been to Woodwell I feel I am well qualified to say the routes there aren't in the same league as those at Pembroke.
Maybe the photos of Woodwell are deceptive and the routes aren't really 10ft high. If so I'll be willing to eat humble pie.
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Maybe the photos of Woodwell are deceptive and the routes aren't really 10ft high. If so I'll be willing to eat humble pie.
Ten foot? That's a highball at Woodwell. Most cruxes involve keeping your feet off the mat!
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The better ones involve keeping your arse off the mat!
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And the really good problems are so lowball, there's no room for a mat underneath.
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Have reinforced the arse end of my pants for Saturday as advised.
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Seems a bit pointless smiting someone Fiend when you could just tell them in a thread non? But true, it is doing my head in now!
Is Woodwell a viable option for the weekend or seepage a problem?
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Sorry, no offence intended. You did get wadded for it too which slightly defies belief.
Anyway you'll need reinforced arse trousers in case you meet any of the locals...
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Cofe. you're right about the thumb thing. Ridley Scott was informed of this fact during the making of Gladiator but he decided to stick with the wrong (thumbs up=live) version to avoid confusing the dumb yanks.
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make that three in ssnowdonia, i missed tremadog