UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Pantontino on March 10, 2007, 12:19:48 am
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Gaz Parry does it again:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=246
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Christ
Parrydaman, but you got to feel it for Nodder, he invested a lot of time into that and was close. I've said it once and i'll sya it again, so much hard climbing in such a small area!
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Awesome effort, did I read the report corretly in thinking there could be the potential to link either LF or RA into the start then? (sorry my cave knowledge isn't too good, will have to rectify that at some point)
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would that mean an 8a into 7c+ into 8a+? :wall:
Good effort Gaz on the send
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Just to illustrate how much hard climbing exists in this dusty old shithole here's an updated graded list for those who are interested:
1. Pilgrimage/Big Link 8b+ (Smith)
2. East Coker 8b+ (Davies)
3. Directors Cut 8b (Cassidy)
4. Clyde 8a+ (Parry)
5. In Life 8a+ (Cattell)
6. In Hell 8a+ (Katz)
7. Full Circle 8a+ (Davies - eliminate)
8. Pilgrim 8a+ (?)
9. Greenheart Connection 8a+ (Dyer)
10. Dan's Finish 8a+ (Cattell)
11. Halfway House 8a+ (Smith)
12. Oppotrocity 8a (Cattell - eliminate)
13. Cave Life 8a (Parry)
14. The Highlife 8a (Doyle)
15. Crucial Times 8a (Davies)
16. Trigger Cut - Upper Cut 8a (Dyer)
17. Pit of Hell Start 8a (Davies)
18. Trigger Cut 7c+/8a (Davies)
Phew!
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Awesome effort, did I read the report corretly in thinking there could be the potential to link either LF or RA into the start then? (sorry my cave knowledge isn't too good, will have to rectify that at some point)
yes paul you could link LF , RA or the start of Left Wall or In Hell start into Clyde.
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Yeah i tend to think of this as the new "Big Link", straight out through the roof 8a+ into 8a+ with no rests!!! There are an unbelievable amount of links still to be climbed and also a couple of hard problems to be done.
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And top it with Uppercut for the ultimate tick.
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=154
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=172
It never ends.
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Just a couple of other links just to keep you going....
Clever Beaver sit start into Beaver Cleaver eliminate - 8a. V. Cool.
Crucial Times into Beaver Cleave eliminate - 8a+. Phew!
Crucial Times into Clever Beaver - hard 8a.
Clever Beaver sit start ino East Coker - project, non-eliminate 8b? good rests...
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Could you do Pilgrimage with finishing up trigger cut ........?
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Just a couple of other links just to keep you going....
Clever Beaver sit start into Beaver Cleaver eliminate - 8a. V. Cool.
Crucial Times into Beaver Cleave eliminate - 8a+. Phew!
Crucial Times into Clever Beaver - hard 8a.
Clever Beaver sit start ino East Coker - project, non-eliminate 8b? good rests...
What is Beaver Cleaver eliminate? ie. What does it eliminate. I did it into Beaver Cleaver because Clever Beaver was wet otherwise for me it's easier to go to Clever Beaver.
Also, I am quite sure Simpson repeated Full Circle back in the day.
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good god. even i am confused!!!
First up what is Full Circle ?
Secondly how do these work and which have or havent been done Just a couple of other links just to keep you going....
Clever Beaver sit start into Beaver Cleaver eliminate - 8a. V. Cool.
Crucial Times into Beaver Cleave eliminate - 8a+. Phew!
Crucial Times into Clever Beaver - hard 8a.
Clever Beaver sit start ino East Coker - project, non-eliminate 8b? good rests...
yeah Pilgrimage into Trigger would be hard but the hardest would probably be In Hell into the unclimbed roof right of RA into Trigger Cut into Upper Cut. big number me thinks
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ha ha full circle is CJD's eliminate, Lou Ferrino without the left holds. I think the first three on Chris's list have been done, the first two by Chris and the third one by Danny and Katz. The fourth one hasn't though i think, would be good though. Beaver eliminate sacks it to the lip off the first jug instead of making a move leftwards to the second.
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Hi Gaz, Full Circle is is a slight eliminate on Lou Ferrino. You just climb it without the holds in the roof i.e. right rib only. Once you pull on, you are locked into sequence, so thus it may not be that much of an eliminate after all, and it is quite cool to climb. I spoke to Simpson about this a while ago, and to my knowledge it has seen no repeats. 8a+/b - not sure, needs a couple of ascents. I had a session on Clever Beaver sit start int East Coker today, and being a bit out of practice in said cave of justice, it felt quite tricky! I managed to get into the second move of Trigger Cut third go, so I reckon hard 8a+, maybe 8b, but again, really cool. Drop me a line if you are around - would be good to have a session.
Oh yeah, Beaver Cleaver eliminate - as Doylo says, just pull on on the first jug and lay one on for the lip then finish as per usual. Their are a wealth of things you can add into this, all of which are pretty hefty. Only rule for the 'real' ticks - no jamming!
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ok cool might be over some time next week after Brum. Drop me your mob number to contact@gazparry.co.uk
Malc says he might be keen also
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It's a little known fact that the 26-dimensional fundamental physicists' favourite "String Theory" was invented by Ben Moon during an attempt to draw a comprehensive topo for Parisella's Cave that was capable of showing how all of the problems interconnected.
Ben's famed fall after completing the main difficulties of what later became Malc Smith's "Pilgrimage" was not due to fatigue but caused by nagging doubts about whether the line contradicted a "Gauge-Gravity Duality" condition that would cause his send to create a black hole. A quick trip to CERN to use their Large Hadron Collider did eventually assuage his concerns. Unfortunately, by the time he was ready to implement his new non-planet-destroying sequence vital holds had started to seep and mojo was lost.
It is currently thought by most reputable cosmologists that a completed Grand Unified Theory is illegibly scrawled on a scrunched-up piece of paper retrieved from Ben's office. A collaboration of Cambridge University, MIT, and Jerry Moffat is currently hard at work trying to decipher this text and convert concepts such as "slopeyness", "pump", "polish" and "dripping fucking pinchiness" into dimensions compatible with current physical models.