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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: unclesomebody on February 15, 2007, 02:50:42 pm

Title: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: unclesomebody on February 15, 2007, 02:50:42 pm: Something Newsworthy; Got a text the other day saying he had dispatched the excellent 8B/+ Vecchia Leone, Brione, Swizterland. It's a very good looking problem, and featured in Dosage 4 and Memento. Zangerl originally climbed this and gave it 8B+ and it was subsequently repeated by Graham in 7 days then downgraded (no suprises there) to 8B. However, it has repelled some other very good climbers so it's clearly hard. Considering it's only about 6 moves it is quite a pure power problem so congrats to James. Hopefully he will crush some more before returning.

(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/unclesomebody/Switzerland%2004th%20Feb%202007/DSC_0041.jpg)

(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/unclesomebody/Switzerland%2004th%20Feb%202007/DSC_0043.jpg)
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: north_country_boy on February 15, 2007, 03:08:08 pm: Bon Effort! Looks awesome..... :great:

Hows progress on the cart project looking.....?
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Rice Boy on February 15, 2007, 03:12:34 pm: Nice one. The moves on that looked some of the best, especially coming off the pinch [Lowell, J. 2006].
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: monkey boy on February 15, 2007, 04:24:47 pm: Quote from: north_country_boy on February 15, 2007, 03:08:08 pm
Bon Effort! Looks awesome..... :great:

Hows progress on the cart project looking.....?

Yeh awesome effort on an amazing line, definately would like to get out there sometime! James said the cart project is extremely hard and a bit sharp, also that he was getting back on it today! Fingers crossed he will get it before he comes home.
Again another quality line!!
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Somebody's Fool on February 15, 2007, 09:11:22 pm: Monster. It's good to see that someone is keeping the British end up now that Jim has come back home.
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: nash1 on February 15, 2007, 09:16:36 pm: ..."cart project"
Is that the one that Sharma nearly does on Dosage IV with the mad footless La Rose move. One of the most powerful things I ever saw on film (apart from that Garth Miller V11 thing on Frequent Flyers... ludicrous)
Would be cool to get a British first ascent of that baby if it is the same thing. Go for it...
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Jim on February 15, 2007, 10:23:31 pm: It is the same. also the campus rose move is a bad sequence
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Somebody's Fool on February 15, 2007, 11:10:23 pm: No shit.
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Jim on February 16, 2007, 06:36:14 am: more Swiss news. Ben did great shark hunt at chironico the other day.
The cart project is still a project up to now
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: nash1 on February 16, 2007, 12:34:18 pm: What can be another sequence? Are there other holds, or do you go again with your right for the big hold?
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: dave on February 16, 2007, 01:09:57 pm: heel in the big hold? just thinking out loud.
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Jim on February 16, 2007, 01:32:38 pm: This mans got vision beyond vision. Or is it sight beyond sight?
(http://images.needcoffee.com/dvd/thundercats1_2_1.jpg)
Thundercats pun
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: cowboyhat on February 16, 2007, 02:52:50 pm: Well done james. Vecchia is such a great line too, total quality.
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: moose on February 16, 2007, 04:14:59 pm: Quote from: dave on February 16, 2007, 01:09:57 pm
heel in the big hold? just thinking out loud.

also thinking out loud... crikey that'd be one hell of a nasty fall.... still, fortune favours the brave.
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: dave on February 16, 2007, 08:25:59 pm: nearly; fortune favours the Dave. :-\ ::)

you'd think that move should be ok, assuming you had more spots than a dalmation.

be a fucking good tick though to bag a problem that golden graham and chris "chris" sharma go bummed on. they'd have to be your bitch for the day. i'd have graham brushing holds for you and sharma opening stubborn jam jars.
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: richdraws on February 16, 2007, 10:20:14 pm: I would just want Randy Puro there cheerleading my every bowel movement.

"Keen youth can definitely do it!" :shag:
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Doylo on February 18, 2007, 10:52:58 pm: blackLAGOON
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: a dense loner on February 19, 2007, 01:49:36 am: another nice one from keenus. fortune favours the bold
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: GCW on February 19, 2007, 06:50:24 am: Quote from: a dense loner on February 19, 2007, 01:49:36 am
fortune favours the bold

Fortune favours the Talented.
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: moose on February 19, 2007, 10:31:28 am: and to paraphrase Garry Player... the more you practice the luckier you get...
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: GCW on February 19, 2007, 10:58:10 am: Quote from: moose on February 19, 2007, 10:31:28 am
Garry Player...
What's he ever done on grit? :thumbsdown:
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: unclesomebody on March 01, 2007, 08:37:04 am: Vecchia Leone just got another repeat from Austrian Emanuel Moosburger.
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Teaboy on March 01, 2007, 10:17:48 am: Now you're just making up names!
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Somebody's Fool on March 01, 2007, 11:20:51 am: My research has not established his existence one way or the other. In fact, fuel was added to the fire of doubt when it transpired his name is an anagram of Unreal Goose Bummer. Very strange.
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: unclesomebody on March 01, 2007, 11:37:25 am: But you'd have to spell his name with 2 l's for that to be the case. Clearly you know something the rest of us don't...
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Somebody's Fool on March 01, 2007, 11:41:30 am: You wha?
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: unclesomebody on March 01, 2007, 12:13:18 pm: Sweet Jesus, the pressure of quitting work is clearly messing with me. Please ignore anything I say at the moment (not this) because clearly I am operating at a moronic level way above the rest of the world. My apologies.
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: BenF on March 01, 2007, 12:16:58 pm: Quote from: unclesomebody on March 01, 2007, 12:13:18 pm
the pressure of quitting work is clearly messing with me.

Yeah, it's tough giving up work.
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Doylo on March 01, 2007, 12:20:41 pm: Quote from: unclesomebody on March 01, 2007, 12:13:18 pm
I am operating at a moronic level way above the rest of the world.

Nothing new there then
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: unclesomebody on April 19, 2007, 11:51:39 am: Just wanted to add that Andrew Earl repeated this problem recently, seemingly confirming it at 8B (?). Good effort. More on his blog.
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: r-man on April 19, 2007, 12:12:12 pm: Good effort, but aren't there access issues at Brione?

Quote from: Keen Youth
Please DO NOT climb at Sonlerto (Dosage 3 and 4) or Brione (village area). The locals and land owners are VERY angry to say the least and have threatened to spray the boulders with grease if people climb there!!! Talks are under way between local developers and residents to try and negotiate the allowance of climbing in the winter months but sadly, so far nothing has been agreed.

These are great areas and there is a chance that access could be agreed but we all need to stay away until further notice. It would be a tragedy to lose these amazing blocs forever!
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Nibile on April 19, 2007, 12:31:01 pm: "QUOD LICET IOVI NON LICET BOVI"
:-\
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Bonjoy on April 19, 2007, 01:04:37 pm: "Gods may do what cattle may not."
Nice
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: a dense loner on April 20, 2007, 11:04:19 pm: fancy that, an italian going all latin on us
Title: Re: Youth Pearson climbs Vecchia Leone 8B/+
Post by: Mirf on April 21, 2007, 09:40:24 pm: awesome