UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: rainbow on February 01, 2007, 07:17:22 pm
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I’ve been pulling down in the valley for the last 7/8 years, If I’m honest Ive got oppsessed by the place. In Dec just gone, finally nailed one of my projects “The awakening” which I’m embarrassed to say has taken me 3 years of effort. Done some other quality lines over the years so thought It was about time I knocked up a few topo’s and descriptions as most of them are well off the beaten track. All are done by me unless credited.
Conditions since xmas have been superb, unfortunately the higher temps of this week have meant all the valley is dripping in condensation.
Below is The Chained Block
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/TheChainedBlock.jpg?t=1170355688)
Situated in the hillside directly opposite gentleman’s, you can just see the block from the path at this time of year. Approach from the right hand side of the block (With all my failures on the line there is now a faint track).
Lean Green etc is slow to dry out.
1 Yellow The Chained Oak Traverse F6c June 06 The main break to the pocket and then to the sharp pocket on arête.
2 Pink Superstring F 6b+ Sit Start on arête go left to get the big flat edge then blast up to pocket then reach the boss.
3 Red The Awakening F7bish. Dec 06 Same start but gain the chunky crimp and head right, condition depended.
4 Blue The Revival f7a + ish. Dec 06 Same start but rock for the high pocket.
5 Green Lean, Green, Bean Machine F6c May 05 FA Dave Mawer.
A brilliant dyno sit start followed by a traditional rock over finish.
The link should be The Awakening movie.
http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/Vids/?action=view¤t=MOV06872.flv?t=1170355850 (http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/Vids/?action=view¤t=MOV06872.flv?t=1170355850)
Pics Of The Awakening.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC07485.jpg?t=1170356035)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC06741-1.jpg?t=1170356095)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC02308.jpg?t=1170356135)
Pics of Lean, Green, Bean Machine
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC03291.jpg?t=1170356217)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC03337.jpg?t=1170356285)
Below is the Breathe Block
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/BreatheBlock.jpg?t=1170356324)
I’m not going to describe in detail where this block is as there is crucial wafer crimp on Breathe which seems solid at the mo but wouldn’t take much pulling off. Anyway it overlooks the road past the ramblers retreat. The top out is slow to dry out.
1 Blue Footprints F6b 2003 Sit Start up the slappy arêtes then follow the main arête.
2 Yellow Finger Print 5+ 2003
3 Red Breathe F7a+ 2004 Gain the lone sloper from various crimps below to catch the pinch then the break and then the top (Have done it from sitting but is awkward and feels forced) better from the low crimps @ Chest height, Or from normal standing.
Pic of Fingerprint.
(http://img.ukclimbing.com/i/15978.jpg)
Below is the Block Far left of Wrights
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/OutThereBlock.jpg?t=1170356651)
1 Yellow Project Hang off Crimps and make a bid for the break (I can’t even pull off the ground on these) Angle is deceptive in photo.
2 Red Out There and Back F 7b 2002 From a Kneeling Start Go directly up the overhanging wall to the break, then make a dyno to the ledge above.
3 Blue Unknown Traverse F7a+ ( Some dude on here I think made the First Ascent a few years ago) Right to left Traverse finishing gaining the ledge using the lovely twin pockets.
Pics Of Out There and Back.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC07422.jpg?t=1170356865)
In the bay to the left of the main bulk of Wrights is the Niche Traverse.
4 Rocket Ride F6c+ May 06 goes directly up the wall in the middle of the traverse to gain Juggy edge.
Up and sitting in the next bay right of Cottage Rocks is a beautiful overhanging Arete. This is
1 Push F6a 1999 From a sit start on the left gain and follow the arête,
2 The line to left up the flake is 5+
Pic of Push.
(http://img.ukclimbing.com/i/23582.jpg)
Below is The Toilet Block
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/TheToiletBlock.jpg?t=1170357030)
This block is high on the hillside with two pine trees ontop, on the right as you go up the path towards Cottage. To get to it go up path as for cottage and kind of double back on yourself where there’s less vegetation. Alternatively contour the hillside right from Push.
The Top is slow to dry out.
1 Red Bog Trot F6a March 06
2 Blue Touching Cloth F6b FA Dave Mawer June 06
3 Green Follow Through F5+ FA Kyya Morrel June 06
4 Yellow F 5+
Pic of Bog Trot.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC07544.jpg?t=1170357115)
Below is Spooky Land.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/SpookyBlock.jpg?t=1170357174)
Follow the main path just past Gentlemen’s which goes left up the hillside into the woods, After 5 mins it levels out and on the left you should be able to see this block.
1 Yellow Spooky Wall F6a
2 Red Spooky Arete F6b March 06 From a sitting start off the trianglular boss on the right gain the hanging arête.
3 Blue Flowtation F6c Nov 06 Sit start off the same boss go up the overhanging wall.
The Wall hidden in the trees on the next bit of rock has been brushed, and would yield a good project if it ever decides to try out.
Pic of Spooky Arete.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC07510.jpg?t=1170357238)
All of the above may be not be some peoples cup of tea, but if your down this way check them out any feedback on grades/Quality etc will be greatly appreciated. Real difficult for me to grade stuff cos I've spent so much time on some of them some may be harder/easier.
I would have done a updated Topo to wrights but haven’t managed to do any of the really hard stuff. It is in need of an update, need feedback on where exactly all the new lines go. Maybe I’ll try to do another topo.
Enjoy.
Stuart Brooks.
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nice work, some of those look good, have to check em out next time we're down that way.
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BLOODY HELL
good effort......
right - tryin to get a whole day pass out asap...... i've holiday in most of feb (climb time!!) the landings look good - essential for me at the mo - i'm off there
waddage for you matey ( i dont give it lightly either!!)
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BLOODY HELL
good effort......
right - tryin to get a whole day pass out asap...... i've holiday in most of feb (climb time!!) the landings look good - essential for me at the mo - i'm off there
waddage for you matey ( i dont give it lightly either!!)
Ta mate, Was down there this morning must have walked 3 miles, not a dry hold in the house. We need a gale or 2 to dry it all out. :thumbsup:
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if it's OK i'll pm you when i get a free whole day, will be in 2 weeks or so... could do with a detailed conditions report!!
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No worries, May see you down there, still got unfinished business to do.
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Good effort, and thanks for sharing. :great:
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Tremendous work! Have another wad point. Great to see people getting outside and doing new stuff; there's been too much whingeing about crap weather this winter. Just shows if you make the effort what you can be rewarded with.
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Cheers haven't been to churnet for a while, maybe in March /Aprile when the mshrooms are out. PS Bonjoy there's Morels in them there hills
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Yeah a great effort for the Dimmingsdale Demon! I can vouch for the quality of a lot of these problems. I've seen Stu a lot of times down the Churnet, each time bubbling with enthusiasm for a new line he's found/working/completed. A stunning effort and proof that there is still plenty out there! Nice one, have some wad.
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Yup, nice one indeed. More waddage to you from me and many thanks in advance from me and others who will no doubt be down pretty quick to check this stuff out. If the forecast wasn't so good for grit tomorrow, I'd be down there this weekend I reckon.
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Fine work sir. Good to know there's some other dedicated explorers out there.
Sloper - Are you hinting at Morels in the Churnet? It did yield lots of good autumn mushrooms.
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Thanks for all your comments. Most of them may turn out to be local problems, but if theres just a couple of moves within that lot, that other people enjoy too. It will make all the bushwacking through the undergrowth and cleaning worthwhile. Stuck at work today, hope you lot are making most of the winter sun.
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These look really good - well done. Some of the easier lines look like they might be a good bet in summer when the seepage is less, though finding them in the jungle could prove interesting.
An updated topo for Wright's Rock would be really useful. There were so many chalked lines there when I called in last week - really inspiring.
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Nice one Stu,
Now every can enjoy more Churnet delights!
:great:
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Hi mate
Good effort on the new problems. Recognise some but not others.
They look great.
Have been exploring the churnet too for a few years, its a very special place.
I think I did the first ascent of the traverse left of wrights rock ?
Remember cleaning a lot of crap off those starting ledges probably about 6 to 7 years ago ? there is another font 7a up and right on the short wall on some small spiky crimps.Also a few small problems exist further left of this in the recently cleared woods, a good warm up traverse about f 6a+ and a very short bum start on a small blocky arete about font 6c+. Will send you some photos if you like.
Also did a cool problem a couple of years back on the overhangs right of wrights rock, but didnt do the top out due to moss and sand but a good problem around font 7b and very unusual.
Did the lower traverse on wrights going left to right starting under simple simon which I dont think had sure been done before around font 7b, some crap hand holds but mainly good footholds, linking this into wrights and going back is a good pump probably about 8a+ sport grade.
Also have a few other projects on the go.
Let me know if you are planning to do a topo, would be keen to help out.
Rob
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Is wrights traverse easier from right to left ?
I've always started way out left.
What sports grade would you give wrights on its own, either way ?
Am keen to try your low traverse, I used to do a variation from near the undercut problem going left to simple simon.
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What sports grade would you give wrights on its own, either way ?
Most go left to right. For most people it would be about F7c as a route grade, though the crux bit is quite reach dependant, so others might think easier/harder.
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I think I did the first ascent of the traverse left of wrights rock ?
Remember cleaning a lot of crap off those starting ledges probably about 6 to 7 years ago ? there is another font 7a up and right on the short wall on some small spiky crimps.Also a few small problems exist further left of this in the recently cleared woods, a good warm up traverse about f 6a+ and a very short bum start on a small blocky arete about font 6c+. Will send you some photos if you like.
Also did a cool problem a couple of years back on the overhangs right of wrights rock, but didnt do the top out due to moss and sand but a good problem around font 7b and very unusual.
Did the lower traverse on wrights going left to right starting under simple simon which I dont think had sure been done before around font 7b, some crap hand holds but mainly good footholds, linking this into wrights and going back is a good pump probably about 8a+ sport grade.
Hi Rob,
Take it you are Ginger Daves mate??
I looked at the traverse and small arete in the cleared woods about a month ago, they both look really good. Your Traverse on the Out There Block needs a name. I've let to do this, always fail on the last move. :wall: Good funky moves.
I trawled through this forum a while ago your 7a prob right of the Out There block, which I think you called it Keith Sharp Holds has lost one of its sharp crimps. Now dubbed Keith No Holds. I can't get off the ground on this. Wicked line. Your Traverse under Wrights, again from memory I think you called it Wrongs Traverse.
I've played on prob immediatly through overhangs right of Wrights, again excellent not managed to get established over the overhang though. I remember Dave telling me there was some body contorted moves on this.
Yeah, would be nice to put up a updated topo as its well confusing with all the Adam's probs. Next time I'm up there I'll try to get a few pics with the intentions of using them as topos
I'll have a word with dave to see if we can organise a day for all of us lot to me up. PS have you been on Daves Garage Wall?? the best training facilitly this side of sheffield.
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I ventured out in the slush today to Dimmingsdale and was surprised to find Wright's Rock essentially dry (only minor condensation, despite it being misty). Anyway, I did Rocket Ride (the up problem in the Niche) and found it well worthwhile with the grade of 6c+ seemingly good. Also worked out but then failed to link the Low Traverse (Wrong's) and, whilst harder than the normal traverse, I thought that 7b seemed about right.
If anyone wants to boulder outside this Sunday (11/2), then I reckon that Wright's would still be largely OK.
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Anyway, I did Rocket Ride (the up problem in the Niche) and found it well worthwhile with the grade of 6c+ seemingly good.
I'm impressed you've done it in one session. I find it tricky and as ever favours the tall. God I'm going to have to tidy up others projects quickly, before you lot come down a casualy flash things.
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Anyway, I did Rocket Ride (the up problem in the Niche) and found it well worthwhile with the grade of 6c+ seemingly good.
and as ever favours the tall.
Not everything favours the tall but everything favours the light :whistle:
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No havent seen dave,s wall yet I keep saying Ill pay him a visit and give him some more holds, gave him some as a wedding present but I think I owe him some more after such a good Caleidh ( think that,s how you spell it?).
I, m in Siurana at the moment so I'll get on the cas when I get back, and In the mean time I,ll try and think of a name for that traverse
Cheers
Rob
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Have thought of a name for the roof crack in the cave at wright`s what about "Wright`s unconquerable" ? see what I`ve done there? It`s probably been done before but did it today, it`s a superb problem form the back of the cave about Fb 7a+ but quite height dependent so somewhere between 6c+ and 7b I reckon. Think the traverse on the out there block should be called "instant funk" not sure why but I just read it on a cd and it sort of sounds right. Also managed to do the extension to the Undercut problem think it`s called point break(done last year by some strong bloke), brilliant moves probably 7b+. A tree has fallen down covering a problem I did last year over on the small block left of the out there block, I never gave it a name but now it`s called "TIMBER !" it`s about 6c+ bum start on pockets up a slopey arete and even tops out it`s quite good if you can move the tree about fb8a+. There is also a nice easy wall to the left of this on great rock but is pretty wet now around 5+. I`m keen to help do a topo to the area if anyone else is, it needs it there`s a lot to do up there, and they`re not obvious unless theyr`e chalked up.
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Was up there earlier today. Wrights Unconquerable is a great line, not sure if its been done maybe someone on here could shed somelight. It is height dependant had a quick play today but to be honest couldn't get started on it. "Timber !" a cool name. Take a whole army of boulders to remove the tree. A topo is on my to do list. Sometime in the next month we'll have to meet up there and chew the fat on what to include in topo. I'm free mostly on Thurs when the clocks go forward I'll be out Mon evenings as well, Just send me a message.
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Yes, I`ll try and get up there next week, thursday could be a good day, will check the weather. Dave has my number or email me robert@mirfin.fsnet.co.uk
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Take a whole army of boulders to remove the tree.
Or one with a decent chainsaw. Would the estate do it for you?
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Or one with a decent chainsaw. Would the estate do it for you?
They may do. I was up there once and a bunch of people who claimed to be the owners of the land that Wrights lies in came steaming up the hill to tell us off for sleeping out at the crag. We explained that the things we had were not exactly sleeping mattresses and they seemed reasonably friendly after that (albiet in a green wellies, RangeRover Vogue owner type of friendliness). Actually come to think of it, once we had explained about bouldering pads, they simply asked us if we wanted to climb Everest (honestly), didn't listen to our (restrained) answer, went on in loud voices about how much land they owned and wandered off to shoot some animals (probably).
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Not so much an oddity as a cracking line, but yesterday Nic Sellars added another fine route to Wright's Rock by climbing Simple Simon and continuing all the way to the top of the crag to join the Leading Fireman. Awesome.. He even asked if 'trees' were 'in' when topping out, you could tell it was his first time in Dimmingsdale! He didn't venture a grade but a 6c boulder problem into a bit of '5c-ish wall' finishing up an E2, with first gear at around 25 foot. He did say it felt easier than 'All Day and All of the Night (E5 6b) which he did about twenty minutes later, so if nothing else we can guess where it'll go in the graded list.
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Hi Andi. I'm not certain of this but I have a suspicion that Andy Brown might have topped out up Leading Fireman when he first did Simple Simon back in '92. I remember him mentioning something about this while we at the crag on a subsequent visit (in about 1994) but my memory is a bit hazy these days. Alternatively, he could have been talking about a repeat of the full version of Fingers in Every Pie. I'll ask him when I see him. Anyway, good effort by Nic and I doubt that either this or All Day and All of the Night will see many ascents in an average year.
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Hi. Either way would be interesting to know. As far as I was aware Fingers in Every Pie had not had a repeat, but it certainly doesn't mean it hasn't. I've never fathomed the move past the peg, which seems far and away the crux of the route which has always planted seeds in my mind (and others) that 'Alternative Three' is a strange claim as it shares the crux but not the grade... Anyway, if no-one else, I would certainly love to know what Andy has to say about it all and it will be of great use in compiling subsequent 'Churnet Histories'.... I suppose the fact that it was Leading Fireman Direct before it was Simple Simon may suggest it was done as a route, but the fact that it only appeared as a problem in the guide may also suggest the counter. Please let me know.
Many thanks,
Andi.
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On the day that Simple Simon was done I recall that another member of the team, local climber Kelvin Grice from Cheadle, spent the entire day falling off Alternative Three and the concenus at the time was that the old grade of E4 6a was somewhat harsh and that it was probably at least as hard as Fingers. It's a nice looking line but I've always shyed away from trying it because of this.
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I spoke to Andy Brown tonight and he confirms that he led Simple Simon on the first ascent back in 1992 and that he continued to join and finish up The Leading Fireman. The original grade was reckoned to be about E4. He also repeated the route version of Fingers in Every Pie about this time - a ground-up ascent, though with a fall going past the peg on the first attempt, followed by a clean ascent shortly afterwards. He also mentioned that he'd cleanly top-roped but not led Alternative Three and reckoned that this was harder than Fingers. Simple Simon was so-named in part because of its proximity to Fingers (Simple Simon met a pieman...) and in part because Fingers was a Simon Nadin route.
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Brilliant, cheers for that. Another Churnet chapter draws to close.
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I spoke to Andy Brown tonight He also repeated the route version of Fingers in Every Pie about this time - a ground-up ascent, though with a fall going past the peg on the first attempt, followed by a clean ascent shortly afterwards. He also mentioned that he'd cleanly top-roped but not led Alternative Three and reckoned that this was harder than Fingers. Simple Simon was so-named in part because of its proximity to Fingers (Simple Simon met a pieman...) and in part because Fingers was a Simon Nadin route.
15 years ago, Impressive indeed. TR the moves from break to finish a few years ago. Pleased to say It may be easier for the short. (Sorry Turner) Plenty people are capable of doing this. Plenty of spotters and pads its just a matter of time.
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Wright`s topo Rar file http://www.leopoldkroll.com/web/content/dnld/wright`s%20rock.rar
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Went to Wright's for the first time last weekend and was impressed. These topos will further encourage me to go back. Tremendous effort, Rob, those look fantastic.
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Can't seem to open that file.. The link doesn't work for me nor does selecting the whole thing, I get some message about rar files. Shame, would love to see what you've done.
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Andi, try This (http://www.leopoldkroll.com/web/content/dnld/wright`s%20rock.rar)
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It does work but because of the apostrophe in Wright`s it wont work if you click on it
Copy and paste it into your browser and and download the RAR file, I think it should open with windows XP or download WINRAR
If you have any problems email me at robert@mirfin.fsnet.co.uk
I was a bit reluctant to put it on here after hearing about the access problem at Eagle Tor, the churnet is still a bit of a backwater for climbing and a great place to get away from the crowds, so use the topo wisely and don`t all rush there at once and respect the place.
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Thanks for that, still can't get it, neither on my home or works computer, so I'll need to download the WINRAR thing.
Backing up what Rob has just said, Wright's Rock has no genuine access. Recently, the path which most of us approach by (when you cross the fence from the woods into the grassy field) has had it's 'definition' changed through the land registry because those in the house which has been undergoing renovations beneath Wright's for a few years don't want people to have the right to be able to walk past there house and so disturb them. This could be a 'thin end' and will be worth watching. Although we can still access this route, we no longer have the right and it can be removed. Please be careful and lets not hammer the place.
On a similar note, please try to clean the chalk off as best you can, the rain never gets to Wright's and I imagine if someone wanted to get arsey about climbers going there, this could be a good starting point the chalk is very obvious from the footpath. The 'L' and 'R' marks on the traverse a few months back were just stupid as was/is the drawing of an elephant on Gentlemans Rock which will be there for a long if it doesn't get washed off. Please take care and respect this places, access is as always a delicate issue.
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Hi Andi if you send me an email I`ll send you the topos in their raw format
I might take the link to the topos down and anyone who wants a copy can email me
I agree with you about the chalk, it all seemed to get worse about a year and a half ago, a jet spray and a generator would shift it.
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PM'd you dude :)
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Rob emailed me a week or two ago with the topo's, he's done a brilliant job sorting out where all the lines go and developing most of the stuff to the left. I have to admit not really given a thought about the access. If we lost access to this I would be truly gutted. I've got some pics from 97/98 and theres only chalk on the traverse. On the plus this time of year most of the crag is screened by the trees so this should help. Anyway me and Rob have spent alot of time developing other stuff in the valley so next time you go instead of wandering up to Wrights take a walk on the wild side a go play on some new moves.
PS went up there yesterday eve with a mate a conditions was the worse I've ever seen, everything was soaked with condensation.
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looks mint
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I have emailed you Rob for your topo. Its an hour drive for me so I won`t be over too often. Tends to be my "slightly less likely to rain venue." As opposed to my likely to rain venue" which is new mills torrs. Big shame it is always so chalked, but I guess thats a result of its steepness quality.
I did a low traverse of wrights that misses the stuck on flake (crux) of the existing traverse. Have done it as a full low traverse including what I think is the earlier mentioned low traverse. Anyone else done that? Quite technical for me.
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Not sure quite what you mean by "full low traverse" but going L-R and staying low beneath the hand holds of Wright's Traverse is Wrong's Traverse and is well worthwhile (easyish 7B?). I started this on the low holds below the start of Simple Simon and went all the way to the right end. Did you start it even further left and stay very low? Does this add anything and can you somehow avoid using the holds on Wright's?
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No I did the same as you. Some nice moves to avoid the broken flake.
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What happens on the end of this? It all feels fine until about eight foot from the end where all holds disappear. I can't fathom it, certainly not at 7b, couldn't even do some moves, let alone link them. Seems to be an undercut right facing thin layaway, then a six fot span to a mono...
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It all goes below and without the hand holds on Wright's the last bit is done using bad hand holds but pretty good foot holds if I remember. I seem to remember getting a pinch by using a cluster of pebbles and maybe a mono?, It`s probably harder for tallies though.
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It`s probably harder for tallies though.
Always the case :whistle:
It certainly feels a hell of a lot harder than Wrights to me!
Cheers.
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You'll have to get the sequence wired before you do the photo sequence for Climb Mag.
I'm quite short and found the last bit awkward and bunched, as Mirf says there are some decent footholds
and some half decent undercut layaways and a cluster of pebbles before the mono hold.
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Oooh Don't get me started Andi :wall:
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Please could some tell me the name and grade of the problem left ( of starting jug of simple simon out left to sloper and then crimp out right , finish self out left) of simple simon?
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"Sam sam tam" or something similar. For confirmation, I shall just text someone who knows for sure.
Edit: Name confirmed as "Sam sam tam". Grade is around 7b but I haven't done it so I can't vouch for the grade and it is one of Mick Adams' grades so it could be anywhere between 7a and 7c. :-\
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sam tan?
(http://newsimg.bbc.co.uk/media/images/40975000/jpg/_40975900_fireman2_203.jpg)
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Correct. My spelling mistake I guess, given that it was a Welsh speaker who thought up the name.
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Please could some tell me the name and grade of the problem left ... of simple simon?
Did this earlier this year and thought it similar if not slightly easier to Simon, which has has always been on the + side of 7b.
Great problem, slighlt mared by the fact it shares some holds from Simon - can always try going direct as first intended!
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Was trying Out there and Back 7b+ today (problem 1) on Mirf`s topo. Does this start standing and avoids the pocket out left? i.e. a big pull to the top, or has it been done as a hanging/sitting start?
The hanging start felt desperate, but the standing start avoids all the climbing and seemed just an eliminate finish to the 7a+ traverse.
Anyone clarify things for me?
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me and scouse had a look at this a while back. i think it starts hanging on a crack/pocket and a crimp. to be honest i found the rock there to be fucking awful - really painful, crystally and looked like it would fall apart (particularly the footholds). coupled with the crouching start it wasn't reeking of quality so we sacked it. bit of a locals problem maybe. the top section above the break (big slap?) looked better. i dare day it would be a better problem at a lower grade by just forgetting about the low start entirely.
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The hanging start felt desperate, but the standing start avoids all the climbing and seemed just an eliminate finish to the 7a+ traverse.
Anyone clarify things for me?
Yeah, it's a sit start on those little pockets and a kind of finger lock pocket, to finish using all above. Should be an issue for a 50 pence problem man! I thing it's nails and painful, Welford made it look 4c, but I suppose that's his job.
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Often thought of having a pull, but the first pocket/finger jam just looks henious with virtually no footholds. Just looks Higginson to me!
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Thought it was from sitting. But the topo off Mirf said it was only 7a+ to start up problem 1 and finish as for 2 (i.e. using the pocket), no way is that first move from hanging start 7a+.
Andy as you know. FPP is only MAX 7a+, where as that is 7b+ so clearly out of my league! ;)
I removed an old birds nest from the finishing jug on fifty pence problem today. Seriously! The first two holds were damp, as was the de-nested final jug. Using a tee-shirt to keep my hands dryish I managed to get the pocket from the pebble- my fingers still fit! Got set quite comfortably for the final move. Didn`t repeat it though. Could be 7b+ I guess. Pretty fingery and harsh on the tips- but I onsighted the last move when doing the 1st ascent so that could also explain my conservative grade estimate.
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I removed an old birds nest from the finishing jug on fifty pence problem today. Seriously!
I hope you checked the nest was finished with, as I saw some little birdies using it only a couple of weeks ago. Lets hope the fledglings had left the nest never to return.
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The wrens were still there last Wednesday too... :'(
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After being alerted to this topic by another user I would like to say that firstly I think it's a very bad idea to remove nests at all, and secondly it's a bad idea to advertise that fact. I don't want thousands of enraged twitchers logging on to give you hell.
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I think it's a very bad idea to remove nests at all,
Unless it's a lice infested shitehawk nest.
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Unless it's a lice infested shitehawk nest.
Yeah, just a chuck a match in then.
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me and scouse had a look at this a while back. i think it starts hanging on a crack/pocket and a crimp. to be honest i found the rock there to be fucking awful - really painful, crystally and looked like it would fall apart (particularly the footholds). coupled with the crouching start it wasn't reeking of quality so we sacked it. bit of a locals problem maybe. the top section above the break (big slap?) looked better. i dare day it would be a better problem at a lower grade by just forgetting about the low start entirely.
It starts sit/hang off finger lock with left, pocket with right, right foot quite high on small nubbin. Throw for the crimp with left, place feet back on. then throw for break with right. In cool conditions these moves feel quite easy. The move directly to ledge above break is another matter. The cop out version ie finishing up Instant funk makes a better problem.
If you like you probs steep and powerful I thought it quite a classy number, maybe its just me liking duff moves.
Anyway, Ginger Dave managed to pull a big flake off prob 13 (little groove) on Mirf's topo. I've kept it incase anyone wants it glueing back on!!!!
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It starts sit/hang off finger lock with left, pocket with right,
Doh, meant to say start with finger lock with right, pocket with left.
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Hey I think this is a good problem, though I can't do it. Ok it`s a bit painful
if you have fat fingers, who said climbing was meant to be comfortable anyway?
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:oops: Didn`t realise it was a birds nest until i had removed it. From the ground it just looked like a bit of moss, but I guess with hindsight I should have realised it was a nest. Didnt notice any birds, so hopefully all is well.
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Just uploaded some old crappy movies of all things Churnet.
The Eliminate Problem
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=draKbTIdCBM
Superstring
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=4vpN1ZaFbDk
Follow Through
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=GTubuOLxXPU
High Speed Imp Act
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fmxnnDExUYc
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Anyone got any details on the Welford problem at the left hand end of Cottage Rocks that traverses into and up the undercut arete? Name and grade would be useful.
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Probably 7b :whistle:
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Anyone got any details on the Welford problem at the left hand end of Cottage Rocks that traverses into and up the undercut arete? Name and grade would be useful.
Always thought this was another Mike Adams prob below see down this thread.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=4309.msg57067#msg57067
Not spent much time on it, but its on my list this winter.
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Cheers for that, always thought it was one of Welfords, best guess guessed wrong! Had a wee play at the start of spring, okay getting toward the arete, guess thats where the 7c starts!
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Did that Out There And Back earlier this week. A soft 7b+ maybe, but I can't see how it can be 2 grades easier (as per Mirf's mini guide) by using the the large pocket / pinch for the last move. Going direct from break to crimpy rail aint much more effort and the crux is definately the bottom setion (crux is getting right hand fingers out of the painful mono/finger lock to throw for the break).
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Did that Out There And Back earlier this week. A soft 7b+ maybe,
Well done! Think you bagged the 2nd ascent, I reckon 7b, and 7a+ for Instantly Out There. Think I bumped into you earlier today amongst the condensation and minging conditions. Its Official, The Churnet Season has begun!!
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Did that Out There And Back earlier this week. A soft 7b+ maybe,
Well done! Think you bagged the 2nd ascent, I reckon 7b, and 7a+ for Instantly Out There. Think I bumped into you earlier today amongst the condensation and minging conditions. Its Official, The Churnet Season has begun!!
Twas me. Its on the Mirf guide at 7b+, but suggest its soft at that grade. Next Churnet tick is Mike Adam's prow problem at Cottage, which feels more top 7b+ than 7c. Shame we don't have a name to go with it.
Guess ya didn't hang round too long on Sunday, I think were I met ya was the only dry spot for miles around - welcome to autumn eh?
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When the Prow problem was originally reported (can't find exact thread on here), I printed it off and there seems an easy/hard way. Easy way goes up to broken pebble and slap for the top V8 ish. Hard way uses the broken pebble to gain the arete V9/10. Weather looks good for the next few days, so should dry out in no time.
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I know the broken pebble you're refering to, but haven't used it as yet (wary of Churnet pebbles and all that!) to get to the arete. Should hopefully have a play this weekend if the weather picks up.
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I had a bad thought on Wednesday.
I finally cracked the Wrong Traverse and found myself shaking out at the end of Wright's traverse. The only thing in my mind was Mirf's topo in which I remembered reading that linking the low traverse into the high reverse may warrant F8a+. I got grade hungry and the happiness of succeeding on the Wrong Trav quickly disappated, I was grade hungry. This was bad enough thought in itself.
I set off back along the familiar holds and with the burn building in my arms I arrived at the crux cross through spanned out with my feet and slapped left into the bucket which would spell the end of the hard climbing and assure the tick! I got the hold, and my left foot pogo-ed off the ground. I was hanging, alone, on the jugs. And that's when it came to me "close enough, Andi". I hung and tried to justify my thoughts. I mean, it's only because I'm tall that my foot hit the ground, right? Could I live with myself, live the lie? I know that so many people do, and if anyone doubted me, I'd be able to demonstrate the problem convincingly.
I dropped to the ground. It'll only taste that much sweeter, when I finally do the link.
And so ends my confession.
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you should have carried on for training if nothing else!
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:lol: I mistakenly thought I might have the juice for another crack!
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The curse of being tall :devangel:
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3 inches too strong!? :P
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Sorry Guys,
No names for you on the cottage rocks problems (cant even remember if Mike gave them names) but here's a link to the original write up.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html)
Cheers
Tony
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Damm gutted, perfect weather on Mon but organised to take friends from work to Climbing Works, So had to make do with all the rain on Tue. Did however manage Wrongs Traverse by the skin of my teeth. Was on my own so vid isn't the best.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=sJdapnlpxyk
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Well done Stu :thumbsup: I did this a month or so ago too, would you agree there are atleast a couple of grades difference betwen it and it's higher brother? They can't both be 7b can they, and I also can't see the link being route F8a+?
It's good though, despite being inches from the ground. The mono is just how they all should be!
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Andi, I did both wright's and Wrong's traverse earlier this year and I honesty thought that they were both fair at 7b. That said, I can see that if you're tall then Wright's might feel 7a+ and Wrong's 7b+. The mono on Wrong's is definitely the key. I haven't done it but would have thought that there and back might warrant F8a as a route grade.
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Fair enough, maybe it comes down to familiarity, it just doesn't make sense to me that I could warm up on a few traverses of Wright's to get me ready for an attempt on Wrong's. I also see that perhaps it could be 7a+ and 7b+, maybe more appropriate.
Hey, I'd happily take F8a for a link up, if that's the consensus, I suppose it's difficult to make a comparison when I've never done a F8a traversing route in the Churnet!
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I did this a month or so ago too, would you agree there are atleast a couple of grades difference betwen it and it's higher brother? They can't both be 7b can they, and I also can't see the link being route F8a+?
Would have to agree with the comments that etjoset wrote, 7b seems fair. If I had to put my neck on the line would say Wrights is a tiny bit harder. Maybe it down to body types! The ultimate link up would have to be Wrong's into Wrights finished off by Simple Simon. Something "The Tor Types" would make light work of!
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That link up would be horrible! Even better would be to finish it with the project dyno.
I suppose it was a bit hopeful that we might agree on grades!
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I suppose it was a bit hopeful that we might agree on grades!
Especially when the grades are around 7b eh Andi? ;)
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Yeah, everything is 7b, I'm used to it now. I think graded lists are the way forward.....
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Can anyone help me out with a better steer towards the Chained Block? Last week i felt like i was going to get benighted plodding around what i thought were the woods opposite Gentleman's.
Thanks in anticipation.
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Can anyone help me out with a better steer towards the Chained Block? Last week i felt like i was going to get benighted plodding around what i thought were the woods opposite Gentleman's.
Thanks in anticipation.
I'll try and describe the easiest way to find it. On the main footpath way before Gentleman's and after The Virgin Wall Is a Footpath which comes down from Wrights. At the same point there is another footpath which drops down to the stream and cross's a bridge, take this and go left after the bridge. Follow this path until it splits, Take the right hand path for about 40m Its on the hillside on the right and should be pretty obvious. From this path I approached the block from the right hand side. Hope this makes more sense. Any comments Good/Bad or indifferent would be appreciated. Enjoy.
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Hope this makes more sense.
It does, thanks. I'll let you know how i get on!
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Had a play on Breathe last Friday, was curious to see if it was as hard as I remember. Was pleasantly surprised, In good conditions felt like F6c+ / F7a for the standing start. The line to the right was done last April by Mr Dave M. Jump start to break then either dyno/rock out for top. Sufforcation F6a. (Almost stopped us "Breathing") named cos accidently stood on crucial crimp and a tiny bit crumbled off. He was truly gutted that he had been so clumsy. Vid of Breathe below for anyone who's interested.
[youtube=425,350]<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/R-tWOOYaDbc&color1=0x234900&color2=0x4e9e00"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/R-tWOOYaDbc&color1=0x234900&color2=0x4e9e00" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>[/youtube]
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Visited Breathe block for the first time this morning. Did a sit start to sufforcation- rather than the jump start-still a bit dynoey. Foot holds were a bit slimy mind! I really liked Breathe- the sit start look like it would add a grade- poss 7b? Might be possible to come in to Breathe from down and left too. I finished reaching up and rightwards on Breathe, with LH in the pocket, rather than finishing using the top of the arete- makes the last move quite tricky, and means you top out directly/differently than other problems on the block.
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Might be possible to come in to Breathe from down and left too. I finished reaching up and rightwards on Breathe, with LH in the pocket, rather than finishing using the top of the arete- makes the last move quite tricky, and means you top out directly/differently than other problems on the block.
Cool, glad you liked Breathe. I've played on the sit start down and left, thought this would make a cracking sit start Finger Print (line left of Breathe)
If you were able to pull down on the sloper in this heat you should get yourself on The Awakening and feel them beauties!
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Did have a look at Awakening and was suitably impressed. A return visit with better conditions and some fuel in the engine is in order. The traverse looks good too and no give away at the grade.
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not made it to the Breathe block yet, but I looked at Awakening on sun afternoon and thought it was small but perfectly formed, I thought it looks (but doesn't climb much like) a baby La Baleine...
http://bleau.info/petit/741.html
(sorry don't know how to post pics. Will learn soon.)
Couldn't do it at all - felt desperate. Good conditions would help. I did manage Bizarre in the heat, felt soft for the grade as discussed in another thread I think.
Thanks for the directions and topo for the Chained block earlier.
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Don't apologise it's not possible to hotlink AKA post pix from bleau.oui
When you see a pic you want to link:
1) R click, select properties, copy URL
2) Paste copied URL into (img]paste it here[/img) But don't use curving brackets, just square ones. I use curving as it makes the post go bongo if I do.
Generate the (img][/img) boxes by clicking on the picture/landscape icon when you make a post. Second from left bottom row of options above the writing box.
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Does anyone know what the thing at the very left hand end of cottage rocks is?
Looks like it sit starts the arete on a line of small crimps. Name? Grade?
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I asked the exact same question a couple of pages previous to this. There is no name coming forth from the first ascentionist, and the grade going out to the arete and up is suggested at V9/V10, though I thought around the 7b / 7b+ mark. Still a good problem, get it done and let me know what you think.
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Thought I Big up The Mirf for doing the first Ascent of Cornelius E8 or Very Highball V9 at Ina's last Thursday. :bow: Awesome Effort. More info can be found in the local news bit on Ukclimbing.
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/p32cyO0kfJI&rel=0&fs=1"></param><param name="wmode"
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Looks very cool. Nice steam train noises.
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If like me, you're a bit of a roof lover, check out these bad boys next time your down this way.
The Grasshopper Block
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/GrasshopperTopo-1.jpg?t=1219862103)
1 Turquoise = The Grasshopper, F6a+. Sit Start.
2 Red = The Duck Billed Platypus, F7a. Sit Start
3 Yellow = Tomahawk Traverse, F7a+. Link up of all the breaks. (holds on lower break in middle feel loose be carefull.)
4 Purple = The Kookaburra, F6a. Same start as tomahawk Trav but gain slopey lip and head left to finish where ever you feel the need.
Ironicly, the closest climbable bit of rock nearest the car park. The way I normally go is park at Ramble's Retreat, head up the red road until you reach first passing place and head left up steep slope. when you reach the top head right. The block is on the Ramble's Retreat side of ridge, hidden amongst the under growth on the left abouts 25 metres on from where the land opens/levels out. Just look for the undergrowth I've trambled down.
Three pics of the crux throw on The Duck Billed Platypus.
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC08220.jpg?t=1219863066)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC08231.jpg?t=1219863185)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC09352.jpg?t=1219863248)
Pic of Crux on Tomahawk Traverse
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o285/brooksism/DSC08070.jpg?t=1219863314)
Crappy Movies of most of problems.
1 Grasshopper. F6a+
http://www.youtube.com/v/nqDUnK7CYZw&hl=en&fs=1 (http://www.youtube.com/v/nqDUnK7CYZw&hl=en&fs=1)"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=
2 Duck Billed Platypus. F7a
http://www.youtube.com/v/5Y4OoTlxBgs&hl=en&fs=1 (http://www.youtube.com/v/5Y4OoTlxBgs&hl=en&fs=1)"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=
3 The Tomahawk Traverse F7a+
http://www.youtube.com/v/iwwMin99S3E&hl=en&fs=1 (http://www.youtube.com/v/iwwMin99S3E&hl=en&fs=1)"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src=
Enjoy.
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I did a couple of problems at the right hand end of Wrights, but have misplaced the topo. The two problems were
- A problem finishing up and right to the 7a near the end of the traverse - right of undercling problem
- Arete right of "the 7a crack" - from under roof
What are they called and what grade? my guess is 7a+/7b, 6c+ respectively.
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I asked the exact same question a couple of pages previous to this. There is no name coming forth from the first ascentionist, and the grade going out to the arete and up is suggested at V9/V10, though I thought around the 7b / 7b+ mark. Still a good problem, get it done and let me know what you think.
Had a go at this this morning. Was far too scared of flappers too contemplate pulling on that pebble. I worked out (although did not link) a direct finish (similar to the V8 one mentioned earlier, but using a hold to the right of the pebble instead.) The arete without the pebble would be a worthy eliminate- you never know that pebble might one day get pulled off.
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The arete without the pebble would be a worthy eliminate- you never know that pebble might one day get pulled off.
I wouldn't even class it as an eliminate. I looked at using the pebble but decided it was easier without it. What would you suggest grade wise? Might have a play down there monday if your about?
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I was planning on a trip to the Churnet on Monday. What time were you thinking? My main target is the v7 traverse - on the Out There buttress.
I am definitely up for another play on the cottage arete. I am not sure on the grade- It would not surprise me if it was v9- possibly a flappertastic hard V8 with that pebble. I have not reached the arete yet and think the next two moves will be the crux. I am fully stretched out with LH on the dishy sidepull and RH on the last v good crimp- heel on the starting hand hold. There are the two relatively poor lip slopers (instead of the pebble) that I might have to utilise to reach the arete.
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The link for the Wright's topo is here
I've done a few tweaks but please feel free to comment on the grades etc.
http://www.leopoldkroll.com/web/content/dnld/WrightsRock.rar (http://www.leopoldkroll.com/web/content/dnld/WrightsRock.rar)
you will need winrar or similar program to open it.
Mirf
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Cheers again - very useful topo. How many repeats has Instant Funk had- is it really 7a+? That first move from kneeling must be 7b surely. Unlike mini the top move (i.e. not using the pocket) is tough for me- maybe its a reach thing- I have to really fly at the top hold and find sticking it a tough proposition. Maybe I just need to get stronger.
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Does anyone have any info on War Child? Does it go straight up from the finish of the 7a problem, or did he move left onto the poorer slopers and use the two thin underclings?
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move left onto the poorer slopers and use the two thin underclings?
As above, hard! Had a few plays and getting acros on those holds is beastly, probably have to wait till winter for a proper play on this.
Ill be in touch about tomorrow, looks like we could have a good session on our hands!
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Not sure quite where this goes. I've got as far as moving left to a better hold asnd then trying to crimp like hell on the slopey crimp in the roof, I think moving left more to the undercuts may be the way. Someone was telling me that point break can be finished on the same undercut?
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How many repeats has Instant Funk had- is it really 7a+? That first move from kneeling must be 7b surely. Unlike mini the top move (i.e. not using the pocket) is tough for me- maybe its a reach thing- I have to really fly at the top hold and find sticking it a tough proposition. Maybe I just need to get stronger.
Think you mean Out There and Back. Instant Funk is the Traverse. Was playing on the traverse today, the last move is ok to get but matching it to finish is damm hard. Maybe I'll be able to tick it this winter. Judging by chalk another addition has been made to the right of Out There and Back, nice moves!
Also Rob if you're out there, realised a prob missing on topo. No 8 in BMC Roaches guide on main bit of Wright's.
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Judging by chalk another addition has been made to the right of Out There and Back, nice moves!
That would be me and Dave K on monday, starting from a very crimpy and strenny sit start! Quite a tricky final move too!
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Just to add, went back this morn and ticked said problem. The problem is to the right hand end of the Out There area, starting on crimps down and left at the end of the inital break on the Instant Funk traverse. A hard pull to get heel on leads into pockets on IF, reach up to slopey crimps directly above, then a long spam out left to a break.
This is Been Caught Stealing, around the 7a/7a+ mark, named after the first track on my mp3 after returning to the car and inkeeping with Mirfin's musical theme for IF which it crosses.
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Ironicly, the closest climbable bit of rock nearest the car park. The way I normally go is park at Ramble's Retreat, head up the red road until you reach first passing place and head left up steep slope. when you reach the top head right. The block is on the Ramble's Retreat side of ridge, hidden amongst the under growth on the left abouts 25 metres on from where the land opens/levels out. Just look for the undergrowth I've trambled down.
I'm hoping to look at the grasshopper block on Tuesday. Could you please clarify which way/passing space you mean? Is it on the Alton side of the cafe or the other side? And does it get much seepage?
Cheers!
Ian
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I'm hoping to look at the grasshopper block on Tuesday. Could you please clarify which way/passing space you mean? Is it on the Alton side of the cafe or the other side? And does it get much seepage?
Cheers!
Ian
Its on the other side of the cafe mate, follow the red road as you would for oakamoor. The passing place is on the left 60/70 metres from car park. Its pretty steep, but quick. Tricky to locate, best bet is to look out for the undergrowth thats been trambled down. It doesn't really seep much, the lower half can be affected by condensation, should be ok on tues. Good luck on finding it, let me know what you think.
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Great thanks, I'll let you how I get on. That's where I'd assumed it was, by the way, but didn't want to end up thrashing around for hours on the wrong hillside. It has been known to happen.
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I couldn't find it! Sorry. To be honest I didn't have much time and was probably just looking in the wrong spot. I'll try again in the winter without the sherpa burden of a monster pad, but won't be over there for a bit. I did see 3 adders though! This block could be approached from the cafe side from the path that runs up from the tombstone like rocks? That's where I came down. Went up to Wrights in the end - top conditions.
How you find these blocks is a mystery to me, but keep looking!
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I couldn't find it! Sorry. To be honest I didn't have much time and was probably just looking in the wrong spot. I'll try again in the winter without the sherpa burden of a monster pad, but won't be over there for a bit. I did see 3 adders though! This block could be approached from the cafe side from the path that runs up from the tombstone like rocks? That's where I came down. Went up to Wrights in the end - top conditions.
How you find these blocks is a mystery to me, but keep looking!
3 adders! All the time i've spent down there never seen one. Not complaining mind you, thats the last thing I want to come across while bush wacking. Yes you can go from the cafe side, just been doubleling back on youself. Next time you come, drop me a line, may be able to meet up, as I have my days off mid week. :great:
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That sounds great, but it won't be for ages. I've got an operation due soon and wanted to get some grit in first. But once the valley is back on the agenda I'll be keen to get some of these oddities done.
I'd seen a common lizard and a slow worm at Wrights (on the path walking up) but not seen adders before. I had two clear sightings and one maybe slithering off. One just sat in front of me for a few minutes. Nice. I wasn't tempted to wrestle it Austin Stevens style though: "Look it's really angry now!" And when I staggered on it soon poked off away. They're pretty shy, so you should be safe!
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Came across an Adder up at Back Bowden in Northumberland, It was'nt shy. Really stood it's ground wasn't going to mess with it. There's a wealth of wildlife down't churnet. Gonna try and get over there next week