UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: GCW on December 04, 2006, 09:24:09 pm
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OK, I know distance isn't a guide to difficulty but what's the biggest dyno (measured from hand-hold to hand-hold) that we know of? Went to a certain venue with a tape measure......
Dynos at Stoney:
1. Quents 205cm
2. Kirton Dyno 180cm
3. George's Wall Dyno 175cm
4. One Arm Bandit 170cm
5. Young American 157cm
6. Megatron 155cm
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That is brilliant - I thought I was obsessed with stoney. I'm surprised that one armed bandit is bigger than megatron turbo though.
You should get yourself to the Rainbow rocket boulder in font and measure all five there...
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You pay, I'll go :great:
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I prefer to climb than survey
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So do I, but recent topics (ie Unjust Dyno) got me thinking and comparing. How do you grade a dyno?
Without resorting to comparison with other dynos?
Chleb I Roze
Kena Loacha
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Up to a point the length of a dyno doesn't really affect the grade though - The dawes 6 incher that was brought up on here a while back being a prime example.
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Hah, brilliant! Obsession makes the climbing world go round... ;D
So how big is the Unjust dyno then?
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Rainbow rocket 7c+/8a is pretty massive! The biggest one (dyno that is) i have ever seen. Must be way over 2 metres, 2.5 maybe!
But yeh i think a dyno has to be massive to make it considerably hard, normally the angle and hold size determines the grade and of course the foot holds or lack of.
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Quent's is soft still for the grade or maybe thats me being a lanky tw@! I'd say the Kirton Dyno felt harder seeing as it took more than way more than 2 attempts - all to do with the hold you are catching :-\
I'll have to get down to check out this unjust dyno you speak of :thumbsup:
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Dynos at Stoney:
1. Quents 205cm
2. Kirton Dyno 180cm
3. George's Wall Dyno 175cm
4. One Arm Bandit 170cm
5. Young American 157cm
6. Megatron 155cm
Big Dyno at the Roaches has gotta be approaching 2m between handholds - have a photo of me on it somewhere and my feet are above the start hold when I'm at full stretch on the finish jug
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I had forgotten about those dynos, how hard are they Font-wise btw??
Isn't Smash around 2m?
What about Froggy Dick??
Hale Bopp?
Come on, we need some nerd input here...
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Come on, we need some nerd input here...
Some more nerd input you mean? :-\
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Less of this conjecture please- we need proper measurements, not guesses. :)
I've done Quent's twice. Took less than 10 goes in 2000 and I thought it was very soft 7b. Last week it took a couple of day's sweat, so it may be OK at 7b (I'm 6'3"). Kirton is OK when you get the right bit of the hold, and catch it at the Point. Same as any dyno I guess.
What's the world Dyno record now? About 275cm or so? So we've a bit more to do on the outdoor dyno front.....
Since it's p***ing it down today I may go and measure the Nexus and Unjust Dynos for comparison. I'll let you know.
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Less of this conjecture please- we need proper measurements, not guesses.
Should I find myself in the near future at Pex Hill with a measuring tape or metre rule, I promise to measure some of the big jumps there. There are certainly some dynos of over 2.0m, maybe 2.2m.
I am surprised that no-one has got onto this before and created some form of ranking or list of big jumps around the UK.
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quents is fuckin desperate once you realise you have to do a foot intermediate in flight... at 5 ft 7 that's what i have always tried... done all the others at minus ten, never took more than 1 session on each. seems to me that quets is the hardest there... though as it's a big holds to big hold sort of a leap it's not as fum as megatron or one armed bandit IMO. Then again, i can do them!!
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This one looks big
(http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/photos/eastby__solid_air.jpg)
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That one looks amazing. I notice on YG someone who says they are a V4 climber managed it 2nd go. V8/V4? Dynos eh, what are they like?
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3. George's Wall Dyno 175cm
GCW, are you sure about this one? I'm about that height and I seem to remember when I'm hanging the jug I can just get my feet on the handhold, which must mean it's a bit heigher (me + arm)? Did you measure to the jug in the break, or the sloper?
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Nah, JP's only 5 foot tall ;)
Does look pretty big though. How far is the Niche Dyno at Brimham? Or the Tank Project at Wimbery?
Edit to r-man: To the JUG. The sloper is about 165cm. Sorry.
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That one looks amazing. I notice on YG someone who says they are a V4 climber managed it 2nd go. V8/V4? Dynos eh, what are they like?
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Although not stated on YG this dyno is an eliminate as there are layaways up the wall. My guess would be that Mr V4 climbed the wall using these. It looked solid V8 to us as a dyno, it's a looong way and your going off a flatty rather than a jug.
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I thought with Quents you were meant to go to the sloper below the big hold in the break? Atleast that is how it used to be described. I remember hearing that he finally did it at 5.00 in the morning or something after leaving a night club early to get the right conditions?
The biggest dyno's must be those of an undercut to start type affair. I'd probably go for Stu's suggestion of the lower tier dyno at the Roaches, it is over two metres between holds. There are probably bigger foothold to hand hold ones though.
Maurice Gibb perhaps, that is really big!
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I thought with Quents you were meant to go to the sloper below the big hold in the break? Atleast that is how it used to be described. I remember hearing that he finally did it at 5.00 in the morning or something after leaving a night club early to get the right conditions?
That'll be George's Wall dyno your thinking of.
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Edit to r-man: To the JUG. The sloper is about 165cm. Sorry.
Huh. That's odd. :-\
Although not stated on YG Solid Air is an eliminate as there are layaways up the wall. My guess would be that Mr V4 climbed the wall using these. It looked solid V8 to us as a dyno, it's a looong way and your going off a flatty rather than a jug.
That's good news. It's back in my amazing-things-to-try book.
There are probably bigger foothold to hand hold ones though.
Yeah, or possibly even foothold to somewhere above handhold. 2nd gen moves again. These are going to be the biggest.
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Yeah, or possibly even foothold to somewhere above handhold. 2nd gen moves again. These are going to be the biggest.
I think these are dodgy, where do you draw the line? I mean, does running up the slab at the back of Ramshaw count as the biggest dyno in the world, I mean I just keep kicking off and kicking off all the way to the top. If something is overhanging you can't do these 2nd Gen type things.
BonJoy, yes, of course you are correct, that is Georges Wall, my humble apologies.
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I think these are dodgy, where do you draw the line? I mean, does running up the slab at the back of Ramshaw count as the biggest dyno in the world
Do you mean the huge slab just up the slope from the easy bouldering? I hadn't tried running. It's a little scary up there. Or do you mean a different one?
I'd say if you started hanging a hold on the rock, and the only way upwards was to propel yourself into a run, then that would be an absolutely brilliant dyno. I can't think of anything like this though... Most running slabs involve a run up from the ground, which whilst dynamic, is clearly not the same thing.
If something is overhanging you can't do these 2nd Gen type things.
Yes you can. Look at the picture of Solid Air above. (or the video - http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/video.html?id=eastby__solid_air&n=0 )
It's the overhanging ones that are the best, because you have to get the timing just right - you can't stand up straight onto the hold as you'll hit the wall, and if you push back too much you'll end up miles away. Obviously having big footholds helps.
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R-Man: Don't forget these measurements are to the hold and do not take into account wrapping your fingers over a jug etc. If you have a big bucket to catch (e.g. Quent's) this may add 10cm to the effective distance you need to travel. Does that makes sense? :-\
So we have:
1. Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
2. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
3. George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
4. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
5. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
6. Young American 157cm Stoney
7=. Megatron 155cm Stoney
7=. Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
I've been sneakily looking at some 2nd gen moves on the Nexus wall, but don't tell anybody ;)
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God you can tell you climb at the Brownstones, it seems to breed this sort of behaviour...
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This from Beanie man... ;)
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yes but he is correct
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Which is worse? A strange obsession with head-wear? Or an interest to see what the maximum possible dyno-distance is? ::)
Brownstones does create slightly obsessive behaviou I admit. :whistle:
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I have bouldered at Brownstones, once...
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That explains a lot.........
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I think Chris Graham did a BIG dyno at Kylo in, called caterpult or something, its massive. Was a video of it on smart boys but not looked at it for a while.
On the dyno at the roaches... I've got a photo of myself on it, my right toe hooked (by accident, this is very dodgy beta if you plan to use it) on the starting handhold and my arms outstretched, I still didn’t reach the hold. Considering I'm 180cm tall and you can add an extra foot and a half say for how far I can reach above my head that makes it possibly 225cm hold to hold.
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:agree:Yeah, catapult looks amazing and seems to use that 2nd Gen idea. That must be one of the biggest anywhere.
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(http://www.climbonline.co.uk/photogallery/Northumberland/Kyloe%20in%20the%20Woods/images/Catapult-nearly.jpg)
Caterpult
There's a video on ukb somewhere, but the search function isn't working at the moment.
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Doesn't it use that mono out right, if so it's not that far distance wise compared to other dynos.
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:agree:Yeah, catapult looks amazing and seems to use that 2nd Gen idea. That must be one of the biggest anywhere.
http://www.climbonline.co.uk/kyloe_in.htm Numver 54, Font 8a?
If it goes from that mono it isn't actually a looooong way between hand-holds. Not disputing that it's nails though.
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It either uses that mono or he's giving us the finger cos he's done it and we haven't :lol:
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how about the Niche Dyno at Brimham for the list (V9/V10). Its unlikely to be the longest but still worthy of note - especially as there's a video...
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/comments.html?id=brimham__niche_dyno
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When Danny's got his hands on the target hold the starting hold is at knee level, or just above. This would make it about 6' I guess (somewhere around 180cm).
What's the one at Kyloe out? Called learning to fly or something like that? How far is that?
How tall is Andy Higginson? In the new Peak guide there's a photo of him on the Big Dyno (Roaches). Looks about full reach from starting to finishing holds. I'm 6'3" (190cm) and full stretch for me is 240cm (just under 8feet). I guess that will be over 200cm easily and probably our current leader?
http://bleau.info/sablons/1460-1481.html If anything this isn't as far as our Roaches challenger....
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It's great to see so much SCIENCE at work. ;)
Unless you were serious about JP being only 5ft, Solid Air looks a full stretch too. So that, the Roaches dyno, and Rainbow rocket seem like the top three.
Other noteworthies (though I suspect none of these are in the same leagure as the three above)
Greg's Dyno at Trowbarrow
Froggy Dick - http://bleau.info/isatis/8853.html
Smash - http://bleau.info/sabots/771.html (why is there a video of a man doing this naked? why?)
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Can we include dyno's on routes too? Or would that need to be in the chuffin section.....
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how big is Maurice Gibb?(the dyno not the sadly passed BeeGee)
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Maurice Gibb is big, maybe in the same league as the roaches dyno but as its diagonal its hard to make a good guess, i'm sure its more than 2m handhold to handhold though. As a comparison I was nearly touching the finishing hold on MG (only tried it for one session), I can do the Roaches one fairly easily but i was probably a full foot short on Rainbow Rocket!
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The Clockface project, Rainbow Walls, Slate. This is well over two metres. I'm not sure if it ever been jumped. It's there for the taking.
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if project are allowed... how about the "tank dyno" at Wimberry?
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Froggy dick (7b) and smatch (7b) are both pretty big but not too hard. froggy dick is definately the harder of the two. Kangaroo city and mr. dynamite in font are both examples of dynos that you dont have to travel along way on for them to hard.
Niche dyno at brimham is good again but not too taxing. The distance on this isnt the problem its holding the top hold.
catarpult looks amazing but very hard, another one on the to do list.
Never been to Wimberry what is the project dyno like?
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Nails, green, the starting holds keep breaking and it's got poor footholds if i remember rightly. There's an animated gif of JB falling off it somewhere.
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Kangaroo city and mr. dynamite in font are both examples of dynos that you dont have to travel along way on for them to hard.
Woah!!! We're interested only in distance here. Doesn't matter how hard a dyno is, only how far it is between holds. It can be V6 but if it's 250cm between holds it wins!!!!
I can see I'll have to have a trip to the Roaches and Gibb Tor, with both my boots and tape measure.
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Don't think it's had a repeat yet and I'm surprised it hasn't been mentioned yet, but Owens "seven foot dyno" at Pex is around 213cm. BenF, we'll have to have a measuring sesh soon!!
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old video of the big dyno for you: http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/gallery/roachesdyno.mov
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Thanks HKS. That's a nice looking move. Holds appear about 2 inches further apart than you are tall........ Any clues?
I may not have found the longest dyno yet but I've got quite a few projects to do!!!
Thanks UKB posse
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Fatneck is right. Apprently the "7 foot dyno" at Pex is exactly tht making it a confirmed 213cm. Im pretty sure that only lanky owen has done it. got him a clip on Sky Sports Extreme channel or summat. The famous lanky poo.
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old video of the big dyno for you: http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/gallery/roachesdyno.mov
Bloody hell, I've not seen that in a while, I've got a few more grey hairs now but still the same vest! I'm 6'2" and it's an arm length too, Roaches dyno is atleast 7' and really similar but slightly shorter than Catharsis: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=55937 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=55937). Hold to hold Maurice Gibb is shorter than the Roaches dyno so I think it can be counted out...
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There is some really long dyno to the right of pebble wall at almscliff (not the PW variation that I'm on, but further right), can't remember exact details, but it's from the low chalked holds to the right of the crack to the top. I'm 183 and according to my ruler that must be ~210, but could be more if I could actually remember where it went.
www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=almscliff__pebble_wall_var&n=2 (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=almscliff__pebble_wall_var&n=2)
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Yeah, I've done that one. It uses a hold on the inside of the crack. It's really big flight-wise, but not massive hold-to hold. Good though. Massive jug on top and potential for eliminates using different hand holds and footholds. Kind of a make-your-own dyno-to-suite type affair.
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length on this one is huge if you go from hold to hold...
no hand holds though...
http://bleau.info/sabots/11399.html (http://bleau.info/sabots/11399.html)
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no hand holds though...
Looks like it might go from an undercut? Does seem pretty big though. Another 200+cm effort. I'm not sure we can allow it as it can be done as per the video, which isn't that impressive.
We need more accurate data on these flights!!
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Possibly nothing that huge, but some great dyno shots in this thread:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5602.0.html
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The Buckstone is 175cm from base of the chips to the lip of the top... if anyone is interested...
:bounce:
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The Buckstone is 175cm from base of the chips to the lip of the top... if anyone is interested...
:bounce:
Thanks. Did you measure it? If so, well done for getting into the mood of this topic!!!
Funny how dynos we think are Big aren't as long as you may expect. :-\
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I had (rather sadly) asked a mate to measure it a few years back so I could build it on a wall, the top jug is 30cm overhanging from the chips as well, I never had the heart to delete the file he sent with the diagram, and this thread made me go back and see!!
Nerdy fun indeed...
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Talking of problem emulation - has anyone read that excerpt in the Fontainebleau circuits book about the philosophy professor that painstakingly matched Fatman hold for hold, angle by angle?
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has anyone read that excerpt in the Fontainebleau circuits book about the philosophy professor that painstakingly matched Fatman hold for hold, angle by angle?
Yes. I spend so much of my sad life reading guidebooks, I've usually read pretty much every word of every guide that I own. Anway, that's not what you asked about.
I can't remember (I didn't say that anything I read actually sinks in), does it say in the guide whether or not the guy managed to climb Fatman after his efforts? Or was all that prior to him making the first ascent?
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oh my god
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So no one else has gone out with a tape measure then. Dissappointed, I must say... :thumbsdown:
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Yeah, me too. I thought there would be more sad obsessives on UKB. Next time I'm at Trowbarrow I'll measure Gerg's and see if it's longer than Quent's........
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Wet day so I've been to the Red Wall..... with a tape measure of course. The results may surprise a few of you. Greg, do 6 Foot Sicks and Greg's go from the jug or the Undercuts? And what is in for feet? Measurements below are from jugs, knock off 5cm for undercuts:
1. Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
2. Greg’s Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
3. 6 Foot Sicks 193cm Trowbarrow
4. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
5= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
5= The Buckstone Dyno
7. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
8. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
9. Young American 157cm Stoney
10=. Megatron 155cm Stoney
10=. Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
These are the measured ones. Big Dyno, Maurice Gibb etc mat be longer but not officially until they are measured. ::)
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oh my god
I second this emotion
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Mr GCW... RESPECT! Good work lad, this is the sort of dedication which we wanna see! :great:
How hard is Quents graded again??
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oh my god
I second this emotion
I see your emotion and raise you this emoticon ::)
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oh my god
I second this emotion
I see your emotion and raise you this emoticon ::)
I see your emotion and emoticon and I raise you a better laid out table...... with grades!!!!!
1 205cm Quent’s Dyno 7b Stoney Middleton
2 195cm Greg’s Dyno 7b Trowbarrow
3 193cm 6 Foot Sicks 7c Trowbarrow
4 180cm Kirton Dyno 7a+ Stoney Middleton
5= 175cm George’s Wall Dyno 7b+? Stoney Middleton
5= 175cm Buckstone Dyno 7b ???
7 170cm One Arm Bandit 7b Stoney Middleton
8 165cm Nexus Dyno V4 Brownstones
9 157cm Young American 7a+ Stoney Middleton
10= 155cm Megatron 7b Stoney Middleton
10= 155cm Unjust Dyno 7c?? Brownstones
And an emoticon. :o
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Fatneck is right. Apprently the "7 foot dyno" at Pex is exactly tht making it a confirmed 213cm. Im pretty sure that only lanky owen has done it. got him a clip on Sky Sports Extreme channel or summat. The famous lanky poo.
As shown at the Kendal film fest a few year back, entitled 'Pex in the city'. Rather a pithy play on word I thought ::)
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Measured and confirmed:
1 205cm Quent’s Dyno 7b Stoney Middleton
2 195cm Greg’s Dyno 7b Trowbarrow
3 193cm 6 Foot Sicks 7c Trowbarrow
4 180cm Kirton Dyno 7a+ Stoney Middleton
5= 175cm George’s Wall Dyno 7b+? Stoney Middleton
5= 175cm Buckstone Dyno 7b
7 170cm One Arm Bandit 7b Stoney Middleton
8 165cm Nexus Dyno V4 Brownstones
9 157cm Young American 7a+ Stoney Middleton
10= 155cm Megatron 7b Stoney Middleton
10= 155cm Unjust Dyno 7c?? Brownstones
Probably big too:
1. 7 Foot Dyno 213cm Some hole out West ;D
2. Big Dyno "over 200cm" Roaches
3. Maurice Gibb Big Gib Tor
etc
In reply to Andy F: Get your tape measure out and check if it really is 7 feet- this is a science thread. I was disappointed by the lack of 2" on 6 foot sicks and suggest a re-name to "6 Foot Force" or something :wall:
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Wet day so I've been to the Red Wall..... with a tape measure of course. The results may surprise a few of you. Greg, do 6 Foot Sicks and Greg's go from the jug or the Undercuts? And what is in for feet? Measurements below are from jugs, knock off 5cm for undercuts:
1. Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
2. Greg’s Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
3. 6 Foot Sicks 193cm Trowbarrow
4. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
5= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
5= The Buckstone Dyno
7. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
8. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
9. Young American 157cm Stoney
10=. Megatron 155cm Stoney
10=. Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
These are the measured ones. Big Dyno, Maurice Gibb etc mat be longer but not officially until they are measured. ::)
Greg's Dyno - Goes off the jugs and uses a dink for your RF and a shallow pocket for your LF.
6 Foot Sicks - This uses the undercuts and pretty much anything for your feet. It was also more a huge span (rather than a dyno) for first ascentionist, as he's got a fair wingspan.
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Greg's Dyno - Goes off the jugs and uses a dink for your RF and a shallow pocket for your LF.
6 Foot Sicks - This uses the undercuts and pretty much anything for your feet. It was also more a huge span (rather than a dyno) for first ascentionist, as he's got a fair wingspan.
Ah, thanks Greg. Is that left foot in pocket "28" on your latest topo? I was going to have a go yesterday but it was soaking on that section. Looks excellent. Have to go back again.
3. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow Should be "6 Foot Threes" now I suppose.
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Ah, thanks Greg. Is that left foot in pocket "28" on your latest topo?
Yep.
3. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow Should be "6 Foot Threes" now I suppose.
The name refers to the height of the FAist (Tom Burns), rather than the distance between the holds.
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I did suspect that but others stated otherwise earlier.
Thanks for the beta- have to get cracking on these dynos. 6 Foot Sicks must be some span- any repeats as yet?
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I did suspect that but others stated otherwise earlier.
Thanks for the beta- have to get cracking on these dynos. 6 Foot Sicks must be some span- any repeats as yet?
Not that I know of.
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Undercut Dyno on Roaches lower tier is 238cm to fingertips, if you catch it at it's worst point. Beat that!
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1. Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
2. Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
3. Greg’s Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
4. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
5. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
6= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
6= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
8. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
9. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
10. Young American 157cm Stoney
11= Megatron 155cm Stoney
11= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
We have a (current) winner!!!! :yawn:
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As shown at the Kendal film fest a few year back, entitled 'Pex in the city'. Rather a pithy play on word I thought ::)
A film about Pex, or just about the dyno? Is it on the net by any chance?
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Just about the dyno as far as I'm aware, was very short and I've never found it on the net Having said that I'm not the most net savvy individual... Would be interested if you could find it...
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yzuIzSssZA
big dyno at the end of this (atrocious) video.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yzuIzSssZA
big dyno at the end of this (atrocious) video.
Indeed that looks big.
And indeed the video is atrocious, a pity as the climbing looks quite good. Like the dog, though.
BTW, GCW, do some number crunching on this one:
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=eastby__solid_air&n=0
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in a real secret area of the meschia surroundings theres one very big dyno, thats a holizontal jump under a roof. its called superman, its 8a and i cant find pics on the net.
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in a real secret area of the meschia surroundings theres one very big dyno, thats a holizontal jump under a roof. its called superman, its 8a and i cant find pics on the net.
There's apparently one called Clark Kent at Meschia, given 8a (or possibly 7c+). Is this the one you mean?
(http://sloper.climbing.nl/images/clarkkentkopie.jpg)
(http://www.montagne-virtuel.com/trip_tonio/clark-kent.jpg)
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in a real secret area of the meschia surroundings theres one very big dyno, thats a holizontal jump under a roof. its called superman, its 8a and i cant find pics on the net.
I've seen a video of that and it is big. Not a dyno you'd want to fall off too much as you'd probably land on your face.
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I'm sure I've seen video of Klem on a problem that sounds like that - almost horizontal dyno to a big jug on the lip? Think he had the footage on his tour.
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It used to be on the Salomon website - just checked and it's not there anymore. But it's the one in the photos above.
http://www.salomonsports.com/uk/salomontv.aspx
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i think in the last two days ive become even dumber than before.
first i reply about meschia in the wrong thread, then i call klark kent superman...
hmm, perhaps too much chalk breathing lately?
???
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hale-bop hale-bop hale-bophale-bop hale-bop hale-bop hale-bop hale-bop hale-bop hale-bop (http://monkeyload.dk/film/jeppe_skov_hansen_hale_bopp/jeppe_skov_hansen_hale_bopp.mpg)
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Just to big up the Lancs Bouldering Posse, a new entrant in the top 3. Nice going R-Man.
1. Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
2. Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
3. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
4. Greg’s Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
5. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
6. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
7= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
7= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
9. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
10. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
11. Young American 157cm Stoney
12= Megatron 155cm Stoney
12= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
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:dance1:
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Overjoyed though I am, words of wisdom echo through my head...
1st the worst
2nd the best
3rd the one with the hairy chest
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It always used to be:
1st The Worst
2nd The Best
3rd The Dirty Donkey
at our school anyway.
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Did you go to the 'School of no-Ryhmes'?
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1st the worst,
2nd the best
3rd is better than all the rest...
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http://www.vuw.ac.nz/lals/research/Playground/docs/lip21.pdf :-\ Interesting
I'm not the only one: In Sheffield in the mid 1980’s, they said First the worst, second the best, and third the
dirty donkey.
:thumbsup: Local rhymes for local people.
The continuations for fourth we received (numbers in
brackets) were: the dwarf that sat/fell/stood in the sauce (29), the horse who fell/sat/got
covered in the/tomato sauce (8 ); the dwarf that went/got kicked up north (2), the dirty
dishcloth (2); the golden eagle (2); the dork (2); the dwarf that blew off (1), the dwarf who
sat in some gorse eating tomato sauce (1), the dwarf that fell off his horse (1); the ghost,
eating toast, half-way up the lamp post (1); the king of the north
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See what he did there Lovejoy? 'Best' and 'Rest', 'best' and 'chest'. Both good...
'best' and 'donkey' though?
I'd like to see who authored your source information. I bet he was one of those English teachers who said poems didn't have to rhyme. I don't disagree that poems don't have to rhyme, but everyone knows that limericks are the true art form.
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Having read your post again I actually noticed some pretty impressive rhyming, although rhyming 'Dwarf' with 'off' requires a level of poshness not commonly found around sheffield.
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Did you go to the 'School of no-Ryhmes'?
Did you go to the school of no spelling?
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Did you go to the school of no spelling?
yse
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;D Failed your 11+ then......
P.S. My Gran didn't know anything about hairy chests (or so she claimed :-\) but she knew about the "dirty Donkey". And she's old (and therefore knows all the stoopid kids rhymes)
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Just to big up the Lancs Bouldering Posse, a new entrant in the top 3. Nice going R-Man.
1. Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
2. Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
3. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
4. Greg’s Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
5. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
6. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
7= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
7= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
9. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
10. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
11. Young American 157cm Stoney
12= Megatron 155cm Stoney
12= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
Ok, was out at Sabots today and just had to go back to Smash for this thread only. I didnæ have a tape measure with me, but I went up and dangled from the jug with one hand and I could just touch the starting holds with me toe. I am 1,83m and I worked it out, it is 220cm + or - 5cm.
Comes in nicely at number two.
Might get to Froggy Dick and Vin Rouge tomorra...
It's good to get this baby ressurected!!
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Sorry. Only proper measurements allowed. :spank: ::)
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Sorry. Only proper measurements allowed. :spank: ::)
Harsh, still I am not giving up. Froggy Dick is about 20cm shorter than Smash, and Vin Rouge is a full 50cm shorter than Smash from the rh undercut to the jug. That means Froggy is 2m and Vin Rouge is 1.70m
Still, there was no tape measure so these may be chucked out, but I will stand by them.
The big shame is that I didn't latch either Froggy or Vin, my whole body had that 'Font-ache' from a long day yesterday. Always a pleasure... :boohoo:
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I guess I should start a new thread :-[ but
“My dyno’s bigger than your dyno”:
1. Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
2. Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
3. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
4. Greg’s Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
5. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
6. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
7= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
7= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
9. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
10. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
11. Young American 157cm Stoney
12= Megatron 155cm Stoney
12= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
“My dyno might be bigger than your dyno but I haven’t measured it and it’s just an estimate”:
1. Smash 220cm +/- 5cm La Roche aux Sabots
2. Solid Air 220cm Eastby
3. 7 foot dyno 213cm Pex Hole
4. Froggy Dick 200cm Franchard Isatis
5=. Catapult 180cm Kyloe In
5=. The Niche Dyno 180cm Brimham
7. Vin Rouge 170cm Franchard Isatis
8. Maurice Gib big cm Gib Tor
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Surely that list should be on the front page of most national papers, it's a work of art and includes some of the most valuable information known to mankind...
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Surely that list should be on the front page of most national papers, it's a work of art and includes some of the most valuable information known to mankind...
I think it would be great to have an international database of lengths of dynos. Guidebooks could even add it in:
Quent's Dyno 7b (205cm) Dyno from......
Guidebook teams please take note :goodidea:
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edit: never-mind
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The 7 Foot Dyno 213cm The Glorious Pex Hill
Repeat and distance confirmed this weekend, third ascent imminent...
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The 7 Foot Dyno 213cm The Glorious Pex Hill
Repeat and distance confirmed this weekend, third ascent imminent...
How dare you mis-quote me!!!! I'm calling my lawyer.
Is the distance measured officially now? Honest?
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Well it was officially measured when it was first done, it's just that I hadn't spoken to the said measurer untill last weekend. Also, I expect "Pex in the City" to be available to all to view
soon
before the end of the year
one day......
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Well it was officially measured when it was first done, it's just that I hadn't spoken to the said measurer untill last weekend. Also, I expect "Pex in the City" to be available to all to view soon
before the end of the year
one day......
Put me down for a copy.
“My dyno’s bigger than your dyno”:
1. Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
2. 7 foot dyno 213cm Pex Hole
3. Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
4. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
5. Greg’s Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
6. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
7. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
8= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
8= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
10. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
11. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
12. Young American 157cm Stoney
13= Megatron 155cm Stoney
13= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
“My dyno might be bigger than your dyno but I haven’t measured it and it’s just an estimate”:
1. Smash 220cm +/- 5cm La Roche aux Sabots
2. Solid Air 220cm Eastby
3. Froggy Dick 200cm Franchard Isatis
4=. Catapult 180cm Kyloe In
4=. The Niche Dyno 180cm Brimham
6. Vin Rouge 170cm Franchard Isatis
7. Maurice Gib big cm Gib Tor
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The 7" Dyno will get iced next trip for sure, the conditions on Monday were a bit on the slippery side... that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it :-[
Then it's over to the Breck for something a bit more mentalist :whistle:
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Nice one. I may have to have a look at this mythical Pex dyno when I've exhausted the rest of my leaping projects. Need to visit the Roaches too..... So much to do, so little time
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How hard is the 7 foot Pex dyno? anyone got any photos.
Did the big dyno @ Roaches again a couple of weeks ago, i can confirm it is very big.
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Dunno about a grade for Owen's dyno, 'cept it is a bit, well morpho...
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Dunno about a grade for Owen's dyno, 'cept it is a bit, well morpho...
Totally unlike most other dynos then?
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There are dyno's out there that aren't morpho at all. Probably. Well more like possibly. Maybe. :whistle:
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There are dyno's out there that aren't morpho at all. Probably. Well more like possibly. Maybe. :whistle:
True. I guess The Mythical Six Inch Dyno is like that. Loads are easier for people under 6 foot too.... :whistle:
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Most dynos are easier for tall people, just because they don't have as far to jump. But they generally aren't properly morpho, in same way that making a big reach from an undercut to an almost nonexistent crimp is impossible if you haven't got the span.
Y'all don't believe me. Check dis:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1pykLK_CUs
Spudd Webb, 5ft 7, winning the slam dunk contest in 1986. Bear in mind the ring is set at 10ft.
If you can't dyno, it's not because you're too small.
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Most dynos are easier for tall people, just because they don't have as far to jump. But they generally aren't properly morpho, in same way that making a big reach from an undercut to an almost nonexistent crimp is impossible if you haven't got the span.
Not sure I entirely agree with you there. It depends on the feet too so a lanky person may be too bunched to use higher footholds that a shorter person would get a good push off of. Give and take I guess. I would say many dynos are Morpho, but not all.
If you can't dyno, it's not because you're too small.
Nah, but it's as good an excuse as any.
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Spoke to Owen about the 7ft dyno and he reckoned around 7b+ which I would agree on - it's a bit harder than most others I have done and kinda morpho maybe... but i do find it slightly bunched and hard to get perfect momentum going - so it may even suit a slightly shorter than 6"2 frame to get more push off the foot ledge :-\
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making a big reach from an undercut to an almost nonexistent crimp is impossible if you haven't got the span
Tim Lowe used to use this tactic in bouldering comp play-offs coz of his ridiculous span...
There is a 7 1/2 ft dyno on the left hand end of the original bendcrete section of the West View wall. Two average pockets to a bucket. Class.
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(http://www.8a.nu/cgi-bin/scorecard/pics/presentation/resize/resize1172563715_2114.jpg)
nice!
can't really make out the holds tho
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Grat shot, i feel sorry for the spotter! Is that one of the problems DAve G does in Dosage 3?
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Yes it is. I think its a still from the blocnotes DVD.
Its not really a dyno, it goes static
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The still is from Memento and it is featured in dosage when DG does a fun dyno. Ofcourse it goes static, it's 7A.
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Yep- looks fun.
But how far is it? :lol:
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Its not a dyno, it goes static
Ofcourse it goes static, it's 7A.
how do you measure a dyno when it's actually a static move? :-\
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Erm:
DG does a fun dyno
You measure from the holds it was done from to the finishing holds. Lots of dynos are eliminates, just look at Stoney. I'm not quite sure of your point, Unc.
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http://www.nodogmaclimbing.com/videos/dinamic people.wmv
Check out these for good dynos!
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http://www.nodogmaclimbing.com/videos/dinamic people.wmv
Check out these for good dynos!
That link is broken :'(
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oops sorry am not very good with computers! Just go on the website under videos for it! Some quality one move wonders, some pretty big too!
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Turbo Kleenex, Albarracin, Spain 2.05m
Iberia, Navalossa, Spain 2.38m
I took part in a dyno comp at Candelario, Spain back in 2003. My best jump was 2.30m. The winning jump was something like 2.65m! My friend David nearly nailed the 2.7m dyno that got rigged up. The guys who appear to be really tuned into dynoing are the Basquian climbers...trully amazing.
At El Escorial there is another big dyno called Feeling The Wind. Don't know how big but it's probably around 2m
My wife became the first womens dyno champion of Spain with her jump of 1.65m!! She entered for a laugh, and not believing that she could dyno (having never dynoed in her life) and walked away with all the prizes!
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I reckon this is because all the Spanish have big legs.
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“My dyno’s bigger than your dyno”:
1= Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
1= Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
3= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
5. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
6. Greg’s Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
7. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
8. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
9= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
9= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
11. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
12. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
13. Young American 157cm Stoney
14= Megatron 155cm Stoney
14= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
“My dyno might be bigger than your dyno but I haven’t measured it and it’s just an estimate”:
1. Smash 220cm +/- 5cm La Roche aux Sabots
2. Solid Air 220cm Eastby
3. 7 foot dyno 213cm Pex Hole
4. Froggy Dick 200cm Franchard Isatis
5=. Catapult 180cm Kyloe In
5=. The Niche Dyno 180cm Brimham
7. Vin Rouge 170cm Franchard Isatis
8. Maurice Gib big cm Gib Tor
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I might try to get some sponsorship for being equal first World Dyno Champion.
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Seeing as this is about dynos here's Part 1 of Anticristo, 8a, El Escorial.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fH9asb8irJ8
It goes out as well as up. You're dynoing for a blind hold. Fun fun fun!
Mis amigos out in Madrid have a host of big dynos. There's Catapult at Escorial, Flower Pot at La Pedriza and something else, name escapes me, at Penas Blancas. I'll drop them an email and see if I can get some details from them. I know that one of the Penas Blancas problems goes diagonally downwards....does this count?? I also ask about David Perinan's Feeling Rewind at Albarr....
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Even though it looks staticable I like that, authentic "Venga, Venga" too.
Can't believe Quent's Dyno is the third biggest, when I don't find it too bad, yet I can't touch the Kirton one. And I've been back enough times and done it again everytime someone previously hinted I'd started in the wrong place, so I must have done it by now.
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Ahem... The 7ft Dyno has been measured and should be in the confirmed list surely?
Also, it's Pex Hill, not Pex Hole thankyou very much....
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Also, it's Pex Hill, not Pex Hole thankyou very much....
Literally speaking, it is a hole. In the way GCW intended, I think he was having a dig at the NW's pride and joy Si. Shall we teach him a lesson? Maybe duct tape his fingers to some holds on Monoblock until he cries blood and apologises?
It's a beautiful dyno. Good effort by Penishands to get it 2nd go like.
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Sorry, I cut and pasted that and missed out the confirmed length. Now corrected:
“My dyno’s bigger than your dyno”:
1= Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
1= Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hole
4= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
4= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
6. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
7. Greg’s Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
8. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
9. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
10= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
10= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
12. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
13. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
14. Young American 157cm Stoney
15= Megatron 155cm Stoney
15= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
“My dyno might be bigger than your dyno but I haven’t measured it and it’s just an estimate”:
1. Smash 220cm +/- 5cm La Roche aux Sabots
2. Solid Air 220cm Eastby
3. Froggy Dick 200cm Franchard Isatis
4=. Catapult 180cm Kyloe In
4=. The Niche Dyno 180cm Brimham
6. Vin Rouge 170cm Franchard Isatis
7. Maurice Gib big cm Gib Tor
Happy now? :lol:
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How big is Vienna at Bowden Doors...surely that should make it on the list?
Before I forget I though that you might appreciate Anticristo, Part 2!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt9nP9ko0Pw
And no it's not staticable. The patatas (which is hard to see as the sun blew out the whites thanks to the chalk) is way round the lip of the roof (which is somewhat foreshortened by the lense from the angle I shot it at) I think this is a bit more obvious in the second part. You did have me wondering about it, though, and had me looking at it again and again. The roof bit is bigger than it first appears. Maybe if you had incredibly long arms and short stumpy legs....
Anyway enjoy.......
Cheers
Luc
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Fantastic! The angle is much better in part dos. Have some waddage..
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Cheers, Fatneck, much appreciated. I agree it does work a whole lot better from that angle.
Luc :-)
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this one's quite big too
http://bleau.info/chats/2106.html (http://bleau.info/chats/2106.html)
not sure it's anywhre near the ones mentioned so far but still.
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I see the world record stands at 2.70...
Hmm, can't we find aything outdoors which smashes that??
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I see the world record stands at 2.70...
Hmm, can't we find aything outdoors which smashes that??
Ahem http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6570.msg93697.html#msg93697 :lol:
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I see the world record stands at 2.70...
Hmm, can't we find aything outdoors which smashes that??
Ahem http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6570.msg93697.html#msg93697 :lol:
Good use of :lol: !! :oops: Seems like I'm going round in circles! Got to get out more!
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Had a butchers at Rainbow Rocket today, by 'eck, it's Huuuuge. I reckon it may come in on top of the list, but I need to measure it next time first!!
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Good one- get to it.
Let's have some pride and get the UK the biggest dyno ever!!!!! (no offence Nibs)
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The World Dyno record has been equalled at 270cm. See UKC news/ Planet Scary.
Eighteen year old Sergii Topishko from Ukraine, Age 18, levitated 2m 70cm to equal the world record. On an attempt to surpass the world record (2m 75cm), Topishko came short and didn't manage to latch the hold.
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The World Dyno record has been equalled at 270cm. See UKC news/ Planet Scary.
Eighteen year old Sergii Topishko from Ukraine, Age 18, levitated 2m 70cm to equal the world record. On an attempt to surpass the world record (2m 75cm), Topishko came short and didn't manage to latch the hold.
said video...
https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=74 (https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=74)
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Still a bit short of 270cm, but got a nice 2nd gen dyno in tonight. Video available soon.
1.= Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
1.= Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
4. The I.L.T. Dyno (http://brownstones.wetpaint.com/page/02a.++Niche+Eliminates) 207cm Brownstones Quarry
5= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
5= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
7. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
8. Greg’s Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
9. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
10. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
11= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
11= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
13. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
14. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
16. Young American 157cm Stoney
17= Megatron 155cm Stoney
17= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
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Charlotte Rampling Direct, well its longer than my up stretched body from tip to toe by 3" so that beats them all...
but its a route so you proberbly will discount it... like all my other problems... :boohoo:
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Not at all. If it's a dyno and you measure it it gets on the list, whether it's a route or not. Credit where credit's due.
Chances of a 270cm dyno outdoors? :-\
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I must measure Rainbow Rocket, that is well over 2m, you have to put your foot on the hand hold on the way past it to get a 2nd kick... could be a contender...
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Clm dangled from the top hold of rainbow rocket and his feet were still quiet a bit above the handholds. Its massive
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Clm dangled from the top hold of rainbow rocket and his feet were still quiet a bit above the handholds. Its massive
Thanks Jim. If you can measure it properly and let us know, I'll give you a Waddage!!! Is it bigger than the Roaches effort?
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easily I recon
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I must measure Rainbow Rocket, that is well over 2m, you have to put your foot on the hand hold on the way past it to get a 2nd kick... could be a contender...
i'm sure you don't have to do that. we've tried it and its not out of the question to get within half a foot or so just dynoing normally - and in our group bogg was getting closest and he's not that tall.
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I must measure Rainbow Rocket, that is well over 2m, you have to put your foot on the hand hold on the way past it to get a 2nd kick... could be a contender...
i'm sure you don't have to do that. we've tried it and its not out of the question to get within half a foot or so just dynoing normally - and in our group bogg was getting closest and he's not that tall.
I'm sure bogg was even closer than six inches. I was convinced that he was going to do it that session.
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exactly.
(http://blogs.warwick.ac.uk/images/ccarter/2004/10/16/tim.jpg)
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he must of had a spring in his step that day
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Just an update- finally measured one new dyno at Blackstone that R-Man did fairly recently. Bigger than expected to!!
1.= Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
1.= Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
4. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
5= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
5= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
7. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
8. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
9. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
10. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
11. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
12= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
12= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
14. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
15. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
16. Young American 157cm Stoney
17= Megatron 155cm Stoney
17= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
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Doesn't Rainbow Rocket piss over every single one of these by some distance. I forget what it is? 2.6M?
Saw the Orc crush this. What an amazing sight that was.
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Quite possibly, but so far noone has measured it.
Next time you're there measure it and we'll have the answer.
Although looking at this (http://bleau.info/sablons110/1460.html) the dudes appear to be full stretch from hand to toes, which for me is 230cm, and I'm lanky. It may well be the Undercut Dyno still leads. Anything undercut to top will be ahead due to body position.
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http://bleau.info/images/allayauda/rainbowrocket3.jpg
His toes are below the starting hold, so 230cm is likely an overestimate.
EDIT: sodding bleau.info links.
Look at this page (http://bleau.info/sablons110/1460.html) and look at the 3rd pic of Alexis Allayaud.
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The guy who did RR is way taller than you. Neil_h will measure it for us, won't you Neil?
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He better had or there'll be some punterin goin on.
C'mon Neil, we've been missing the measurement too long.
On those vids it almost seems like a 2nd gen move. I wanna try it.
EDIT: Houd, how tall is Alexis Allayaud?
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If Alexis is the FA of RR then getting on for 7' (info from Neil_h) Truly I look at the vid and he dominates that rock w/ his presence. FYI The Orc is no giant just a man w/ very strong legs indeed and great in-flight co-ordination. The 7b to RR's L is only a foot-ish less! Great landing though, perfect finishing hold. Get some meat on those thighs youth!
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You know I like dynos.
Will skipping help?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xs_I52bydB0
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Probably not. Though it's good for triceps, which....
What am I saying? Yes, it's 110% the best dyno training ever. As is golf, and boulles. No really it is.
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Most of dynoing is about technique
and LANK
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I expect the best training is jumping off the ground as high as you can. Then doing the same with weights. A buddy of mine is the best a dynos I know and because of years playing high school volleyball in Canada, fuck, can he jump.
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check out the jump in this vid at about 10s in.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WS0GGC_LD2U
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Awesome jump though it is I'm glad that Rainbow Rocket has been downgraded to 7C in the new 7&8 guide. People put in a lot of hard work to CLIMB 8A. It's a big grade and a big milestone and I've always felt that it devalued it a bit when you could tick the same by simply jumping. I mean at least stuff like Deliverance involve a bit of climbing. RR is something a basketball player could probably piss with a bit of coaching. :whistle:
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Here here
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rainbow rocket still strikes me as being more than just a grade harder than the 7b+ next to it.
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Possibly but how do you grade jumping between ledges? Houdini's H grades perhaps.
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i think to suggest a problem like rainbow rocket is simply jumping between ledges is to negate a whole facet of climbing. it ain't easy and although its mainly a distance thing it ain't atechincal or basic in any way. you're on smears for feet and a narrow slot for hands - so you've got to find your set of smears you can trust without them being so low you can't reach or so high you can't wind up. You've got to pull really hard to get the upper body into the rock and transmit the leg force upwards. You've got to make sure you don't snap your fingers backward in the hold when you go, and you've got to coordinate 101 different body movements in a split second to get anywhere near to height unless you're pushing 6'7". its not just a matter of just relaxing and going bells deep like Smatch or the Roaches undercut dyno, or just pulling like fuck like Georges wall, its everything in one.
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True enough and you could get into the argument that totally basic pulling problems require less "technique" but I'm not going to. All I know is that it left a sour taste seeing people claiming 8A for it. Just an opinion.
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Why not think of it as an 8a dyno?
Just like traverse grades aren't comparable with bloc problems, just think of an 8a dyno as being an incomparable grade to a "proper" 8a.
And, for what it's worth, I think dynos can be amongst the most technical problems there are. Timing, not everyone can use it.
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There was some debate at one point about the 8a version of rainbow rocket being to a specific point on the top and that there was also a 7c version - never understood this though since when you're trying it theres only 1 obvious way of doing it. I don't know if the 8a way is the "normal" way which everyone tries and the easier way something else (dynoing sideways to the finish of the 7b+?); or if the "normal" way is the easier one and the 8a version is some hard eliminate. like the guy with a dick on his face: fuck knows.
8a dyno is in every way comparable to a normal 8a (assuming they're graded right). for everyone who's good at dynos you could find who've dynoed 8a but never climbed harder than 7c otherwise i bet you can find a dozen 8a climbers who've never dynoed hard than 7c. you could repeat this excersise ad infinitum by substituting "crimpy" and "slopey", or "delicate" and "thuggy", or "roof" and "slabby", "limestone" and "gritstone" etc etc etc.
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pulling like fuck like Georges wall
What's this? George's wall a power problem? I disagree. You don't need much strength, it's just knacky.
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all i can say is out of all the dynos i've ever done, george's wall (to the break not the sloper) was by far the one where i had to pull the hardest. i'm 6' with long legs, hanging on a jug with 2 small edge footholds in front of my face, dynoing to a jug vertically above - theres no knack to that.
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Dave- that was the point I was trying to make, badly. Style is what I meant- dynos are very different in style to most other problems.
Aren't all dynos knacky?
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Must admit I found George's wall rather more technical than anything on Minus ten.
I think Dave's speaking sense here - Dynos are a skill required for contemporary bouldering as much as any other. I may have dynoed 8a but it doesn't leave a sour taste anymore than watching Ru's power-to-weight ratio being exploited on Mushin'.
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Aren't all dynos knacky?
not as much as this:
(http://julder.dash.free.fr/Blog/knacki.gif)
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But not all Knackis are dynos.......
Funny, I thought George's wall was OK, so was Quent's. I found Megatron the hardest of the bunch. :shrug:
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On the subject of dynos, on the Young American is it always done double or do some folk stick it one-handed as I can hit the top every time with one hand but can never stick the fucker? I find it much harder to generate the momentum to get two hands up there.
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I've done it one handed and it's easy to stick. Fine as the double if you get your right foot stuck to the correct bit of polish. As far as I am aware it's supposed to be a double, as is the Kirton.
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Oh right cheers I'll give it another blast, have tried going for the higher better left hand bit and the lower slopier right hand bit of the top. Good to know it is possible this way.
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i don't know offhand if there are rules on this, but there is one particular place on the top you can hang going 1-handed, bit of a drag on the lip. its deffo easier to hang 2-handed, though obviously a bit harder to get the distance and coordination. if you're trying to hone the 2-handed coordination thing, try the double-double dyno (previously described as Young American in the rockfax) - same start position, dyno double to the sides of the upper block, then again double to the ledge. no big distances but its all about timing and shit.
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Aye cheers dave I do the easier one as a warm up to get the timing right before trying the proper version. Will keep trying, am not a natural 'dynoer' but reckon it really helps your climbing.
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Ha ha, I find the double to oppo edges of the block, then double to top harder than doubling straight to the top.
"Morpho" is the word.
(http://www.aardman.com/morph/images/morph.jpg)
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Bugger, one happy day I will stick that thing then I can hang up my boots... ::)
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What did tony hart's plasticine sidekick drink when in France?
Morph-Eau.
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all i can say is out of all the dynos i've ever done, george's wall (to the break not the sloper) was by far the one where i had to pull the hardest. i'm 6' with long legs, hanging on a jug with 2 small edge footholds in front of my face, dynoing to a jug vertically above - theres no knack to that.
Perhaps your height was a problem? Anyway, I find that instead of just hanging from the jug with feet up, bouncing my right foot into position as part of the wind up seems to work well:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4WYnfhWSUg
I could keep going if I didn't get so dizzy.
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...and back to Font.
I think the easy version of RR (7c??) is using the double kick with the feet, i.e. smearing a foot on the mini mini slab of the starting hand holds on your way past. The full-on 8a version is just using the starting smears for the feet. I think I may have read that somewhere.
The 7b and 7b+ left of RR are definately not just for lanky folk cos the hard part is holding the top, not getting the distance. There is a lot of technique in there too. (yep, you guessed it, all my hardest ticks are dynos, even tho I am not tall!)
Barbatruc, Smash, Deferlante, Voltex...oh the list is almost endless... :bounce:
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And while I'm on the subject (even if no-one else is), has anyone seen anyone do George's to the sloper? Now that must be hard. 7c+? 8a?
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...and back to Font.
I think the easy version of RR (7c??) is using the double kick with the feet, i.e. smearing a foot on the mini mini slab of the starting hand holds on your way past. The full-on 8a version is just using the starting smears for the feet. I think I may have read that somewhere.
If thats true then its theres basically only 1 problem, and its 7c.
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No I ain't seem noone even try it. Agreed this must be harder than 7b if it took Quentin 3 or 4 years to do as he states in his interview in the Power of Climbing.
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I don't remember that. Damn, who did I lend my POC to? Was under the impression that this was a Dawes problem. Is it not?
Oh, and I've tried it a couple of times. It's easy to hit the sloper double handed REALLY HARD. But hanging it is something else...
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There's some specific footholds for the sloper one, aren't there?
Didn't we discuss this before? :-\
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As far as I'm aware, the only rule for both is that you dyno from matched on the jug. Other handholds not allowed.
We have talked about George's wall before, but nobody knew much about the sloper variant. However, that was some time ago, and I thought perhaps that in this new age where monsters walk the earth with no fear and almost everybody seems to be eating 8a's for breakfast, someone might have had brunch...
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Yeah some vague bells are ringing about the Dawes's involvement with this problem in some climbing mag years ago but dunno any details about who did it first etc. Hopefully someone will clarify....
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Anyone got any idea how big Hale Bopp is? Must be >2m?
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looks about 6ft to me, so probably a touch short of 2m.
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Found the comment about George's Wall Dyno that I was thinkin gof:
i spoke to johnny about this problem once. he stated that he did not know how it came about that he did the first ascent. but he aknowledged quint fisher had done it first.
he went on to say quint had done it from specified low footholds which is why he went to the sloper.
i however used whatever footholds (high) and then dynoed to the break as i could not get the sloper.
Hale Bopp ain't as big as you may think, the holds are crap though.
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Yeah the starting holds are small grattons, gratins whateva u want to call em!! Then a huge leap to the square cut top. Cool, that's another small gap in my stoney knowledge filled!
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Interesting. So the really hard dyno could actually be even harder, if Stoney foothold rules are obeyed...
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by simply jumping.
I strongly disagree w/ this. As a boner of crimps, a nasty horrid little man that must apply as much force as is humanly possible to any piece of rock to climb it - I find L E T T I N G G O the most desperate game in the world. I respect dyno-ers as it took me a decade to learn how to slap on the fly. There is more to dyno-ing than meets the eye. The first hurdle is mental; the second is synchronicity; the 3rd contact strength; fourth: fear of failure. It ain't just a jump.
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If thats true then its theres basically only 1 problem, and its 7c.
Are you telling that to me, Ru, Dawes, Katz, assorted gimps - or just other 6' 1" men? :whistle:
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well if you've got to kick off the handhold on the way past for the easiest beta then yeah theres no reason why runts shouldn't be able to do it - much more so than a normal 1st gen dyno.
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bit of hale bop action for you
me and tim are both 6 foot 1 and we were only a little short
(http://img.ukclimbing.com/i/20165.jpg)
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Here's one - I will try and put up a shot of this later. Jacadi left hand variant (8a+). This is a 6 foot dyno in a 45/50dgree roof to a FAT sloper! Awesome problem - check it out... Also, Le Puce (1st ascent Fred Rouhling) 8a - again same roof, not sure how far 6 foot plus (maybe 7?). Jacadi original 8a, 5 foot plus (your hand is still on when you catch the lip, but still, a long way). Cool little roof.
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i did la pruce, i am 6 foot 1 with a plus 4 index, i could just reach between the start holds and the jug on the lip, mind you dynoing to it was a nother question, shit feet, and a very big swing when you hit it, must have taken me 60 goes over 5 sessions
but if you looking for amazing backwards action check this shit out http://bleau.info/occidentale/1336.html (http://bleau.info/occidentale/1336.html)
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Back to SCIENCE!!!!
1.= Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
1.= Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
4. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
5= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
5= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
7. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
8. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
9. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
10. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
11. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
12= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
12= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
14. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
15. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
16. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
17. Young American 157cm Stoney
18= Megatron 155cm Stoney
18= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
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Hey Neil, I'll be back down in novemeber. I hope you've got a mint dyno circuit worked out for us
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you talking to me
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Check these dedicated dyno monsters - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04n4BedX5Vg&NR=1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04n4BedX5Vg&NR=1)
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you talking to me
well there's no one else here, who else I am I talking to?
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you going to stop at mine?
you sure you are up for one of my dyno circuits.
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I'll be ready. You got a gite early novemeber for 3 or 4?
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I'll be ready. You got a gite early novemeber for 3 or 4?
all 3 are emtpy from the 8th onwards, for now
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And straight in at number one...
After 76 (yes, 76) days of effort Skyler Weeks has done what he feels to be the hardest jug-to-jug dyno in the world, Zion. It measures about 8 1/2 feet (~260cm) from start hold to finish, and jumps directly out a river-sculpted scoop in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado. Skyler didn't propose a grade for the climb. Skyler currently lives only for dyno climbing. He trains with Denver Nuggets, the professional basketball team. This footage as well as other huge dynos, will be included in Chuck Fryberger's new film Pure, which will also feature many other top boulderers from around the world. The DVD is scheduled for release in early 2009.
(http://www.8a.nu/images/news/large/633585323054147500_Skyler.jpg)
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you gotta love american names. that report is solid gold.
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has anyone measured catapult up the woods yet?
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Somebody should dangle a tape measure down the Tank Dyno project too. Waddage to the first accurate assessment!
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Right, I may need to get on the case. SCIENCE is vital in this thread.
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Tomorrow?
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If the pissing continues to be down, let's do a UK dyno measuring tour.
You got a 5m tape measure?
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Right, I may need to get on the case.
All results will of course be verified by an independant third party prior to any waddage being issued...but if it looks about right compared to the photo of a strong girl attempting it on p295 I may relax this requirement.
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I will of course, leave myself open for all attack as i've not read all of the posts but i'm pished so here we go.
Its v easy to measure a 'dyno'. What is much harder is to measure percetage?!
At 5'7, i suprisingly held my old school records for high jump in the first three years of high school (11, 12, & 13 years aprox) and realised deperessingly that the only skill i had, had limitations. The plus side was that the school was demolished when i left. Leaving me Eternally school record holder. Not bragging like...
So my point is: Height is always a limitation in true upward measurable dynamic sports so therefore all height related sports achievments should only truely be measured by a handicapped system or perentage more accurately!
Discuss..
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As a fellow shortarse, I concur.
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Do you think the same approach should be applied to the high jump in olympics?
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Slide, there are special short-person sports where style counts more than objective achievement - gymnastics.
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Dubdom: I'm not sure about changing the olympics but we do have a handicapped system for golf and horse racing. Whether there's a place for it side by side the traditional ways i probably don't think so. My only point is thats its in tother sports.
Largerstarfish: Thats why i took up snowboarding! Shame i didnt take up gymnastics though.
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Horse racing is handicapped because it's based on betting. Golf handicaps are only for amateurs.
Bloody dwarf contingent. ::)
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Balls! You got me there.
Wonder if i could get in the 'special' olympics' then :whistle:
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The wheelchair dyno comp would be worth watching.
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Back to SCIENCE!!!!
1.= Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
1.= Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
Blah blah blah
You need to add Maurice Gibb to that list (Biiig dyno at Gib Torr) I seen it done wid me own eyes.
Im sure i mentioned it at the start of this thread?
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You need to add Maurice Gibb to that list (Biiig dyno at Gib Torr) I seen it done wid me own eyes.
Im sure i mentioned it at the start of this thread?
Once somebody measures it, it'll go in the list.
Nik and I had a babysitting session today. And I was disappointed with this distance:
1.= Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
1.= Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
4. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
5= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
5= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
7. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
8. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
9. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
10. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
11. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
12= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
12= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
14=. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
14=. The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
16. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
17. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
18. Young American 157cm Stoney
19= Megatron 155cm Stoney
19= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
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14=. The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
That was quick! Nice one. how the hell is this thing so short and it ain't been done :-\ The footholds must be abysmal.
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It goes from oppo sidepulls, with poor feet, on a slightly overhanging face. i would expect getting the height would be hard. i've not tried it, but if JB has tried I'm sure he could expand on it.
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yeah that would make sense, I guess if its a pull down hold ur going off you could generate a bit more 'oomph'. Somebody needs to drop Skyler a line....
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footholds not great, one hand is kinda cupping a flat sidepull and the other is not on much, maybe an undercut. this just illustrates what a meaningless statistic the length of a dyno is. Anyone for the worlds largest cubic zirconia?
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Surely it must be of some relevance, at least of passing interest anyway.
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Dave, who said it was?
OK, I know distance isn't a guide to difficulty but what's the biggest dyno (measured from hand-hold to hand-hold) that we know of?
Lists, lists, R-Man, lists.
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Let's add that major addition
1. Zion ~260cm Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
2= Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
2= Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
4. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
5. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
6= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
6= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
8. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
9. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
10. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
11. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
12. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
13= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
13= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
15= One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
15= The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
17. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
18. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
19. Young American 157cm Stoney
20= Megatron 155cm Stoney
20= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
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Be careful with your "approx" 260cm nonsense. This is a serious thread :lol:
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Have a word with Skyler then! Get him to measure it properly.
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you can't put a project on the list.
Ok then, add this one, lower windowsill to roof gutter on my house - 4m ish?
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1.= Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
1.= Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
Surly these are the biggest, no?
On a different point. Sorry. Not only have i become a 'regular' on this site i've also gained two karma points. get in :thumbsup:
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260 > 238
So no.
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it's only approximately 260 cm though, allowing for 10% in either direction, meaning it could be as low as 234cm!
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Isn't the US cm about 0.6 of a UK cm? or is it that they just have more cms in their ms? I can't remember.
Any reccommendations on what type of tape measure to use, GCW? I'm thinking about the Stanley DynoRight, but am unsure whether yellow and black is the best format for modern rock. Will buying one which uses 1080i be better value than 720p on tape?
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Isn't the US cm about 0.6 of a UK cm? or is it that they just have more cms in their ms? I can't remember.
No cm's is the subdivision of a metre into 100 equal units. The length of a metre is a SI (International System of Units) and is defined as the distance light travels in a vacum in 1⁄299,792,458 of a second (had to look the exact figure up I'm afraid as I couldn't remember it, but also found the justification of this measurement in wikipedia article (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metre) which was that they were trying to define 1/10000000 of the distance from the equator to the north pole).
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No, no, no., Slackers.
A cm is the length of each side of each face of a cube of water that weighs 1 gram. The gram was defined as the standard weight in which cocaine was sold in paris in 1810. The m was the height of Napoleon's nose above the ground when he was wearing heels. It is just coincidence that there are 100 cm in one m.
In order to make everything seem bigger in the new world, French settlers in North America in the 19th century used smaller cms for measuring stuff - a practice which has continued to this day. The same practice has seeped into their (US) whole economic system, making the rest of the world think that everything from North America is worth far more than it really is. Opinion is divided on how many US cm are in a US m.
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No, no, no., Slackers.
A cm is the length of each side of each face of a cube of water that weighs 1 gram. The gram was defined as the standard weight in which cocaine was sold in paris in 1810. The m was the height of Napoleon's nose above the ground when he was wearing heels. It is just coincidence that there are 100 cm in one m.
In order to make everything seem bigger in the new world, French settlers in North America in the 19th century used smaller cms for measuring stuff - a practice which has continued to this day. The same practice has seeped into their (US) whole economic system, making the rest of the world think that everything from North America is worth far more than it really is. Opinion is divided on how many US cm are in a US m.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
That'll be why I always felt short-changed by the lines of coke I had in the US, they just don't cut it like they do here in blighty
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More importantly, In America a pint's a pound, but here a pint of water weighs a pound and a quarter. This goes some way to explaining why America looks at the rest of the world with a "did you spill my pint" look on its face.
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I know its a route and therefore slightly off topic, But the clockface project on rainbow walls is basically one massive dyno. I think Nodder has had a few goes so it probably should stand up to some of these on the list...
hose
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Pillock.
The move has never been done. It does not exist in any sense of the word, route or no.
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Pillock.
Very restrained hOUD.
Right, less chat more SCIENCE if you please!!
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14=. The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
Very restrained hOUD.
Hypocrite :P
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Not at all, I was just surprised that hOUD only said pillock. Most unusual, I think he must be ill.
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the charlotte rampling dyno wipes all there aforementioned....
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Can you refresh the list G?
There's real science on the nqbv thread - rainbow rocket at 2450.
Has this had a British ascent yet or do we struggle to go the distance?
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Right, back to SCIENCE:
1. Rainbow Rocket 245cm Franchard Sablons
2= Undercut Dyno 238cm The Roaches
2= Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
4. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
5. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
6= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
6= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
8. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
9. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
10. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
11. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
12. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
13= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
13= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
15. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
16. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
17. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
18. Young American 157cm Stoney
19= Megatron 155cm Stoney
19= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
Honorary mentions:
Zion ~260cm Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
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Rainbow rocket must have had loads of british ascents no? Even I know someone whos done it. :thumbsup:
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Rainbow rocket must have had loads of british ascents no? Even I know someone whos done it. :thumbsup:
who do you know?
my mate pissed it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCiWqi_IZ94 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCiWqi_IZ94)
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:o that's pretty damn big!
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The guy who did RR was some dude called Will who moved up from Sheffield to Glasgow earlier this year.
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I did it like the guy in that video, putting your foot up on the starting holds.
I believe this version now only gets 7c/7c+, I think for the 8a tick you have to go off the smears which seems impossible when you're on the problem.
Which ever way you do it it's amazing!!
A must try for any springy climber while in font ;D
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That bloc is awesome and the couple of dynos to the left of RR are worth doing as well
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I did it like the guy in that video, putting your foot up on the starting holds.
I believe this version now only gets 7c/7c+, I think for the 8a tick you have to go off the smears which seems impossible when you're on the problem.
That's a bit like the World dyno record bollocks about not using the starting holds for feet. Surely that's the sensible thing to do as it makes it less about height and more about technique (plus not using holds just turns a classic problem into a stupid eliminate). I get why 7+8 gives it 7C now anyway.
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I did it like the guy in that video, putting your foot up on the starting holds.
I believe this version now only gets 7c/7c+, I think for the 8a tick you have to go off the smears which seems impossible when you're on the problem.
That's a bit like the World dyno record bollocks about not using the starting holds for feet. Surely that's the sensible thing to do as it makes it less about height and more about technique (plus not using holds just turns a classic problem into a stupid eliminate). I get why 7+8 gives it 7C now anyway.
I know and he knows it only 7c that way, it was a joke and a bet, basically I had a bet that he couldnt do an 8a dyno by christmas, the forfit was a punch in the face at xmas dinner, so he did it and went a bought the old guide book for the 8a tick..
;D ;D ;D
still amazing effort, I love dynos but I couldnt get anywere near
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Some Yank's repeated Sykeler Weak's big dyno "Zion". The one that 8a.dogshit were claiming was 8C+ due to how long it would take someone to repeat it. He did it third go.
And has claimed 8C+!
Ha ha ha ha. I'm not sure if that's actully funny, tragic or both. :shrug: :spank:
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A case of a vicious circle disappearing up it's own arse.
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I'd take 8c+ for it
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A case of a vicious circle disappearing up it's own arse.
Poetically and accurately put.
It should still be in GCW's List O'Science though.
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I'd take 8c+ for it
Yeah I'm hoping it's for the massive irony factor in which case it's a stroke of genius. But he is American.
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http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=cB6ChHN0IEw (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=cB6ChHN0IEw)
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Been out measuring today:
1. Rainbow Rocket 245cm Franchard Sablons
2. Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. Undercut Dyno 223cm The Roaches
4. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
5. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
6= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
6= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
8. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
9. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
10. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
11. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
12. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
13= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
13= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
15. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
16. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
17. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
18. Young American 157cm Stoney
19= Megatron 155cm Stoney
19= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
Honorary mentions:
Zion ~260cm Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
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Brilliant! Now that's true list dedication! ;D
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Brilliant! Now that's true list dedication! ;D
I haven't personally measured some of those, so there's still potential adjustment for:
Rainbow Rocket
Iberia
7 foot dyno
Turbo Kleenex
The Buckstone Dyno
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I'll try and get to Rainbow Rocket when I'm in Font for an official sanctioned measurement.
Did you not measure Buckstone when we were there? Looks like a return visit is on the cards...
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No, didn't take the official dyno-measurerer.
Yeah, it's on the list for this year too. And I'd quite fancy a look at Rainbow Rocket, looks ace!
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Non-quality vid:
http://www.vimeo.com/3910213 (http://www.vimeo.com/3910213)
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Haha some phenomenally attentive spotting and heterosexual hands on hips posing from me there :whistle:, bon effort GCW.
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another old vid of the same problem here http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/gallery/roachesdyno.mov (http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/gallery/roachesdyno.mov)
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Those were the days!
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...being able to piss it when you didn't have to wear Boreals?
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No, didn't take the official dyno-measurerer.
Yeah, it's on the list for this year too. And I'd quite fancy a look at Rainbow Rocket, looks ace!
Rainbow Rocket is ace, it was even bigger than I thought, I was rather shocked when I got there and stood under it :o
Voltex to the left of it is really good too!
;D
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<object width="400" height="300"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=3045823&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" /><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=3045823&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="300"></embed></object><br /><a href="http://vimeo.com/3045823">Dumby Project</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1228064">Willackers</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.
This is my project at Dumbarton, it's off 2 really poor holds to a really awkward to catch sidepull jug on a very overhanging wall, I've been trying it for some time now but it's fookin nails to hold the jug.
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That last go was close.
Doesn't look very far distance wise? Not a put down, I'm sure the holds are poor and the catch is desperate and such like, but this thread is all about distance. Looks like a cool move (if graffitti strewn dank quarries are your bag :))
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Are we including roped/route dynamics!!!
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You'd be suprised how far it actually is between the holds!
I will take a tape on my next visit and get the measurements :P
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Masterful use of vimeo linking code there :)
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Ha ha!
Can I detect a hint of sarcasm there....
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I got pretty close to that Dumby dyno in the 90s. I got pretty close to it for a couple of years, but never landed it. Be good to see it done.
As an aside, I did the Undercut Dyno going with my right hand because my left shoulder is unstable, but I reckon going with your left is easier.
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I got pretty close to that Dumby dyno in the 90s. I got pretty close to it for a couple of years, but never landed it. Be good to see it done.
Nail Mcnair said he knew someone who had been trying it but not done it, is that you?
It's a long way to go off poor feet and hands and the jug isn't really a sinker, I've had my hand on it so many times, really psyched to get it done and I'm sure I can.
It a bigger distance between the holds than a lot of the dynos on the list.
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Measure it and see. Please report back.
May have been me, I had a fair effort on it 1994 onwards. But I know others have tried it.
I never found getting the distance too bad when you get the knack, just holding the top is the crux :lol:
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I never found getting the distance too bad when you get the knack, just holding the top is the crux :lol:
It's so hard to hold!, quite sharp too.
I keep having a go every time I go so hopefully it'll go, or I might just keep popping off the top hold, for ever :(
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I might just keep popping off the top hold, for ever
That's why I sacked it :lol:
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What do you reckon the grade would be if I was to bag it?
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I don't know, dyno's are weird. It felt at least 7c/+ to me (bear in mind I'm lanky and like dynos), think it's one of the hardest I've been on. But dyno's are weird in that it may feel 7b when you land it, then you'll wonder why it took so long. :lol:
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I don't know, dyno's are weird. It felt at least 7c/+ to me (bear in mind I'm lanky and like dynos), think it's one of the hardest I've been on. But dyno's are weird in that it may feel 7b when you land it, then you'll wonder why it took so long. :lol:
I'm also pretty tall and like dynos, I've done lots and i've always got them in a session, I did rainbow Rocket in about 5 tries and found it pretty easy, the same with lots of others but no matter how many times I hit that hold it just won't stick! >:(
It's got to be 7c+ for sure, maybe a tad harder?? :-\
We'll see.....
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It could be 8a+ for all I know, never nailed it :lol:
Not tried Rainbow Rocket, be a good one to compare it to.
Good luck anyway.
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9b, maybe 9b+ :P
Cheers man
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My dyno is bigger than all of yours!
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Sorry Pat, forgot to say any dyno can be included, as long as it's measured.
Which dyno are you referring to by the way?
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2nd generation dynamic moves!
The Gardoms Wall (T/R) 2.5 meters?
Johnnys Foundry problem... a distance of at least 3 meters!!!
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239 cm...
The Gardoms Wall, aka... Assasin.
E9 for shuzzle!!!
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(OK, not as big as the foreign ones!!!)
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But not really in the same genre as the ones you are mentioning,,,
sorry was bored and wanted a argument!
please ignore me...
johnnys was the most impressive dyno I have ever seen performed!
worth noteing...
Loose Cannon, Cromlech Boulders!
That Ramshaw one...
Maurice Gibb?
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When you say Johnnys dyno at the foundry do you mean the one that went round the righthand end of the bendcrete bouldering wall horizontaly at ground level starting at the right arete of the wall and essentially running around the base of the wall to finish on the side of the low roof bit? The above description is all from memory so may be a bit out. If it is that one it certainly looked great, but was actually not that hard. More about learning where to put your feet and keeping running when gravity tells you you're falling off. More akin to a wall of death than a dyno.
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dank quarries are your bag
(cough) rivelin (cough)
:)
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Yeah... thats the one Nic at work! as I said... its a bit more 2nd generation than you usual dyno, and it was harder for the tall.
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Oh yes much harder for the tall. A low centre of gravity seemed to be the key. I seem to remember that once you let go of the starting holds you take three steps then fling yoursely wildly sideways and backwards to catch the finishing hold. I might need to visit the foundry with a tape measure...
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It was also extended to start from the arete, from a blue jug... sure thats gone but it was not more than 10" from the arete!!!
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Now for a bit of Lancashire Esoterica...
I went down to crag x aka Jumbles and found this nice dyno - I went down tonight with a tape measure and it weighs in at 164cm
It feels exactly like Nexus dyno but with a bigger left foot. I reckon about V3 ish, though I could be way out as I've no idea how to grade dynos!
I doubt it's been done before unless r-mans paid a visit! ;)
Cheers!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-qVYnKDv_w (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-qVYnKDv_w)
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Love the dismount :lol:
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'ere that's a proper mince that is! :great:
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Love the dismount :lol:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I have a dyno treat in this months dose of font, you guys wait.. there big big and big and even bigger
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Now for a bit of Lancashire Esoterica...
I went down to crag x aka Jumbles and found this nice dyno - I went down tonight with a tape measure and it weighs in at 164cm
It feels exactly like Nexus dyno but with a bigger left foot. I reckon about V3 ish, though I could be way out as I've no idea how to grade dynos!
I doubt it's been done before unless r-mans paid a visit! ;)
Cheers!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-qVYnKDv_w (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-qVYnKDv_w)
Nope, never tried it. Nice one!
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here you go a snippet of this months dose, me on the rainblow rocket bloc
Rememebr as always to click to watch full hd version
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krLAcI43Bxk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krLAcI43Bxk)
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Nice!!!
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But what about that nasty little SS arete (http://bleau.info/sablons110/1456.html) round the back? Could never even pull on to that when I've tried!
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But what about that nasty little SS arete (http://bleau.info/sablons110/1456.html) round the back? Could never even pull on to that when I've tried!
technically on a different bloc (thank god) ;D
I pulled of the ground once and managed to get no were near the top :lol:
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I really want to go look at that bloc next Font visit.
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Back to SCIENCE:
1. Rainbow Rocket 245cm Franchard Sablons
2. Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. Undercut Dyno 223cm The Roaches
4. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
5. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
6= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
6= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
8. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
9. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
10. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
11. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
12. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
13= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
13= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
15. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
16. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
17. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
18. Rick's Dyno 164cm Jumbles
19. Young American 157cm Stoney
20= Megatron 155cm Stoney
20= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
Honorary mentions:
Zion ~260cm Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
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Brief vid of 4 dynos at Brownstones:
http://www.vimeo.com/6231529 (http://www.vimeo.com/6231529)
Also managed to miss another one off the list.
1. Rainbow Rocket 245cm Franchard Sablons
2. Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. Undercut Dyno 223cm The Roaches
4. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
5. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
6= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
6= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
8. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
9. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
10. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
11. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
12. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
13= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
13= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
15. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
16. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
17. Dynostrung 167cm Brownstones
18. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
19. Rick's Dyno 164cm Jumbles
20. Young American 157cm Stoney
21= Megatron 155cm Stoney
21= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
Honorary mentions:
Zion ~260cm Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
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I like this vid, cant help but notice how easy they look, what are the grades on these problems?
also there is a new dyno in town, air sweeden at elephant.... man its hard and far and in a roof, will measure it next time I am there for you all. vid will be in this months dose (i hope)
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Nothing harder than 7a+ there Neil.
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they look nice thats all, maybe if I ever come back to the uk I will pop in and give them a bash
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They are nice. R-Man did Ridiculous Dyno originally, goign with his left hand- my dodgy shoulder prevents this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deCEywYOVgo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deCEywYOVgo)
R-man:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jjd212sw7tQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jjd212sw7tQ)
I think I've put weight on since the last time I did that dyno :o :o
I'll do a proper dyno vid once I nail a few more classic ones. Mmmm, I love dynos.
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Freezing that first vid at 13 secs makes it look like not such a big dyno (although i note that you are a lanky twat). Maybe measurements from footholds to handholds would give a better measure of massiveness.
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If you turn up the sound on this and listen to GCW's feet (from 25 sec), he plays a lovely castanet rhythm on the rock. Most remarkable.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deCEywYOVgo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deCEywYOVgo)
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sorry, i've got other things to do
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Apology accepted. I'm sure you've got lots of posts you aren't interested in to reply to. Off you tootle then...
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Mr Tickle is 1.62m, and really fookin steep.
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Thanks Will. It deserves to go in.
1. Rainbow Rocket 245cm Franchard Sablons
2. Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. Undercut Dyno 223cm The Roaches
4. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
5. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
6= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
6= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
8. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
9. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
10. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
11. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
12. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
13= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
13= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
15. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
16. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
17. Dynostrung 167cm Brownstones
18. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
19. Rick's Dyno 164cm Jumbles
20. Mr. Tickle 162cm Dumbarton
21. Young American 157cm Stoney
22= Megatron 155cm Stoney
22= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
Honorary mentions:
Zion ~260cm Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
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Had a brief visit to Eastby today. Jim Purchon's dyno (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=eastby__solid_air#video) goes straight in at No 3!!
1. Rainbow Rocket 245cm Franchard Sablons
2. Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. Solid Air 228cm Eastby
4. Undercut Dyno 223cm The Roaches
5. 7 foot dyno 213cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
6. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
7= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
7= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
9. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
10. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
11. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
12. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
13. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
14= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
14= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
16. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
17. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
18. Dynostrung 167cm Brownstones
19. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
20. Rick's Dyno 164cm Jumbles
21. Mr. Tickle 162cm Dumbarton
22. Young American 157cm Stoney
23= Megatron 155cm Stoney
23= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
Honorary mentions:
Zion ~260cm Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
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that looks right nice, easy version of the rainbow
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Yeah, except the hold you go for is a poor sloper, which is why (I assume) Jim matches straight away.
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Dave dispatched PWVariation, Black wall dyno and Blackhead with consumate ease today, he was trying 'The King throw' as I left and was getting mighty close - That should be on your list G, if it's been done?
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Dave? Cowl? Simmonite? Mason? Parry? Norton? Throw me a bone here.
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From Cheltenham?
Toms mate.
On a video at st.bees?
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he was trying 'The King throw' as I left and was getting mighty close - That should be on your list G, if it's been done?
What is this?
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Big jump from start of PW to top, long way up right.
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Ah, that Dave. Not met him yet. Pistol Whip Variation? As in your thing? Or something else?
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Pebble wall variation, i.e the lankster problem to the right from the undercuts, I need to learn how to jump and get that done!
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That's a good 'un, a bit blind. You can jump through Pebble wall an' all, that's a great move.
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Ah, too many PWs. PWVariation is a good one though!
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Ah, too many PWs. PWVariation is a good one though!
Pebble wall.
Pebbleless wall.
Pebbleless sloper wall.
Pebble wall variation from undercuts.
Pebble wall variation from the low jugs.
All been done, all good, but I'm not here to discuss their minutiae.
I'm talking about the King throw.
(http://dfs4jg.blu.livefilestore.com/y1p_W0-qtcCKt6Mg9gmK1yx7B5h49utmPPOUABo6_fBOL57FHibAWIWL2CHA7nnui7kpAr1ZwjS6MsmZJ2ldYhlG1p_cEl_hNUA/CIMG3066_0001.jpg)
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So does that dyno from the break to the top?
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So does that dyno from the break to the top?
From right hand in break, left hand on that crimpy thing to the right. Dave did it today my spies inform me. I asked Nemo to get a tape measure on it just for you G, but you know he doesn't listen to me often.
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left hand on that crimpy thing to the right
I don't follow, can't picture it. I'll make a special trip over with the official Dyno MeasurererTM.
EDIT: Grade?
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So does that dyno from the break to the top?
From right hand in break, left hand on that crimpy thing to the right. Dave did it today my spies inform me. I asked Nemo to get a tape measure on it just for you G, but you know he doesn't listen to me often.
:whistle:
Some dumbf*** got his left and right mixed up. Sorry.
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Wait til you see the video, Dave makes it look so easy! He also did Underhand, good effort!
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I got Dave doing the Pebble Wall Dyno on vid the other day. It's a pretty long way. I never seen it done before. It's not the usual way of dynoing PW (i.e. undercutting the break and going to the top) but a more direct dyno from the break with left and the crimp with right straight to the top. It's basically inbetween PW and the 7b variation. He seemed to think 7b+ was fair but if you can't jump you ain't got a hope.
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I did that PW dyno couple of year back, i seem to remember there being a juggy sidepull low, went from that to top (i.e. the same line as the uundercutting thing but I coudln't get on with the undercutting so just jumped from the low starting jug). good problem, 7bish range.
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I did that PW dyno couple of year back, i seem to remember there being a juggy sidepull low, went from that to top (i.e. the same line as the uundercutting thing but I coudln't get on with the undercutting so just jumped from the low starting jug). good problem, 7bish range.
That's pebble wall variation from the low jugs, 7b+ morpho. This new one is further left.
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Here's the footage of Dave G doing the Pebble Wall Dyno. Wish I could figure out how to show it in slow motion cos it looks incredible. Literally like he is flying.
Pebble Wall Dyno, Almscliff (http://vimeo.com/6497950)
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Wish I could figure out how to show it in slow motion cos it looks incredible. Literally like he is flying.
Just watch it over a really slow, net connection (or somewhere that your bandwidth is throttled such that it makes all videos appear in very slow-motion, like here at work :P)
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Hadn't thought of that one :-\
It's actually quite an awkward position to spring from, it's not the biggest dyno out there.
He did go and try the Wimberry Dyno the other day. I reckon in his prime he would stand a good chance of doing it. It doesn't look much harder than some of the other dynos I've seen him do. I think he might be keen to get back on form for that one. Amazing project.
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Here's the footage of Dave G doing the Pebble Wall Dyno.
nice work, that left foot looks shiite!
:o
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I have to say right now, but we have just got back from exploring some new rocks in font,
and no dyno is going to be bigger than the one we found today, imagine rainbow rocket but stick another few feet on it, with a second geration move in the middle,
pics soon :)
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sorry problem with pics, they will be on soon
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Try another thread - My picture's bigger than your picture?
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Sod the pics, where's the measurement :P
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Here's the footage of Dave G doing the Pebble Wall Dyno. Wish I could figure out how to show it in slow motion cos it looks incredible. Literally like he is flying.
Pebble Wall Dyno, Almscliff (http://vimeo.com/6497950)
What grade does that go at? Looks quality!
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What grade does that go at? Looks quality!
It's got to be a minimum of 7c, though my guess is harder. I think Tom said Dave mentioned 7b+, but he's jumped 8a before and these things are incredibly morpho to climb, and hence even harder to grade before consensus. Get to it Will, I've seen you, you've got the necessary dimensions and track record. ;D
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Cheers!
Looks amazing!, I'll have a go next time I'm down that way, I'll have to wait for my bloody ankle to get better before I start jumping around again :'(
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just on a side note as this seemed to be the most likely thread to produce an answer, has catapult at kyloe in been repeated yet?
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Someone told me Earl had repeated it, might be wrong though?... :-\
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Sod the pics, where's the measurement :P
my tape measure is not big enough ;D
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(http://www.maisonbleau.com/dyno1%20copy.jpg)
:o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
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There's dynos.
Then there's 2 holds that are a long way apart ;)
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technically 4 holds
(http://www.maisonbleau.com/dyno%20second%20pic.jpg)
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in reality its only a foot or so higher than rainbow rocket, the foot holds are better, but there might be a second way of doing it, too side pulls up in the wall, and measuring with the brush stick this might be possible
wait and see
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Get to it mate!
That looks MOOSIVE!!!
:o
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(http://www.maisonbleau.com/dyno1%20copy.jpg)
Is he playing keepy uppy with that spear on his chin? Impressive.
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did you not know thats the new in thing, you dont get the tick unless you can balance a big pole on your chin on the send
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Sod the pics, where's the measurement :P
my tape measure is not big enough ;D
u must have a pretty shit tape measure it only looks about 3m
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bloody B&Q
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bloody B&Q (http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9285042&fh_view_size=10&fh_start_index=10&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB&fh_search=tape+measure&fh_eds=%C3%9F&fh_refview=search&ts=1253300070405&isSearch=true)
Bloody cheapskates (http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9285043&fh_view_size=10&fh_start_index=10&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB&fh_search=tape+measure&fh_eds=%C3%9F&fh_refview=search&ts=1253300005209&isSearch=true) :)
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ok not as big as the last one, but another new bloc we found in this new area, its hard around 7c, the hand holds are poor and its about 20/30 degrees overhanging
(http://www.maisonbleau.com/brand%20new%20dyno.jpg)
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ok not as big as the last one, but another new bloc we found in this new area, its hard around 7c, the hand holds are poor and its about 20/30 degrees overhanging
(http://www.maisonbleau.com/brand%20new%20dyno.jpg)
Shit man, that looks awesome - I'm out in a few weeks...where's that shit??
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its in anew area that is in devlopment, so far there about 200 problems with more being added each day, drop me a line before you come out I will link you a topo once its drawn up with the new stuff on
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its in anew area that is in devlopment, so far there about 200 problems with more being added each day
C'est la vie.
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technically 4 holds
(http://www.maisonbleau.com/dyno%20second%20pic.jpg)
Jesus tittyfucking Christ! That's massive. Do you not need a few bolts in that one? We saw those two people at Canche aux Merciers, cool dog!
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Is that lass an in situ IOC judge who does a dope test on anyone who succeeds? A piss taker if you will.
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Someone told me Earl had repeated it, might be wrong though?... :-\
Google doesn't throw anything up. Apparently Chris Graham can't repeat it?
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Someone told me Earl had repeated it, might be wrong though?... :-\
Google doesn't throw anything up. Apparently Chris Graham can't repeat it?
Dave (who did that Pebble Wall Dyno) got the closest I have seen or heard of on Catapult. There's some footage of him (in a session or maybe 2) hitting the break again and again. He nearly stuck it on a couple of occassions, stopping for a split second. He never went back to Northumberland and gave up climbing just after. Shame, another session and he would have done it. I think he may be a bit gutted now as he didn't realise the significance and he's had some bad mountain boarding and work injuries to his hand now.
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I think graham spent a fair while trying it, so to repeat would just be beyond the call of duty.
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Just a quick question out of interest. Has Rainbow Rocket been downgraded to 7c+? Has it always been 7c+? Is there an 8a version?
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surely even more so that halle bopp rainbow rocket is massively height dependent and therefore giving it a grade is a bit meaningless?
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Just a quick question out of interest. Has Rainbow Rocket been downgraded to 7c+? Has it always been 7c+? Is there an 8a version?
the 8a version was always with out stepping onto the hand hold. 7c+ if you do, but as all dyno's depends on how far you can jump, for me it was the hardest dyno i have done, days and days jumping. but I can generally do technical 7c dynos in a few tries. :-\
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ok so you all you font dyno people out there, this is the official pole of the hardest dynos, in fact 99% of dynos in the forest.
le belvedere electro 8a+
la canche aux merciers jacadi 8a+
rocher saint german operation plats du desert 8a/8a+
rocher saint german soucis d'air 8a
rocher du paradis(puiselet) magic circus 8a
la canche aux merciers saut de puce 8a
rocher canon sauvez alain robert 7c+/8a
rocher de cassepot boys fly 7c+/8a
franchard isatis vin aigre 7c+
franchard sablons rainbow rocket 7c+
franchard cuisiniere hale bopp 7c+
rocher du mauvais passage vol a la tire 7c+
maunoury instinct 7c+
J A martin vol au dessus d'un nid de caucou 7c+
J A martin arian 5 7c+
95.2 future barbares 7c+
rocher de milly robo cop 7c+
cuvier rempart voltige 7c/7c+
la reconnaissance flying fat 97 7c/7c+
apremont bizons scream 7c
rocher saint german vulcain 7c
franchard hautes plaines deux faux en plats reels 7c
franchard sablons jakari droite assis 7c
franchard pascal meyer l'air de rien 7c
franchard ermitage 52 gerald 7c
rocher de la salamandre besoin d'elle 7c
rocher de bouligny le plat pays 7c
rocher du paradis(puiselet) fleur de peau 7c
95.2 l'ange naif 7c
bois rond lucky luke 7c
bois des long vaux phobos moon 7c
la rocher qui tourne palpitaions 7c
la reconnaissance master frog 7b+
rocher saint german jump 7b+
franchard isatis kangaroo city 7b+
franchard sablons voltex 7b+
franchard cuisiniere super flux 7b+
franchard cuisiniere mister dynamite 7b+
rocher d'avon catch me if you can 7b+
rocher du mauvais passage peter pan 7b+
boigneville miro 7b+
rocher aux sabots fanny chippie 7b+
bois rond sensation 7b+
videlles l'abattoir le jet du bi 7b+
beauvais la bombe humaine 7b+
cuvier rempart washington sniper 7b
franchard isatis canonball 7b
franchard isatis la ou finit la raie des fesse 7b
franchard isatis une explosion de bonhur 7b
franchard isatis froggy dick 7b
franchard sablons jokari droite 7b
franchard sablons mortel transfert 7b
franchard cuisiniere double entorse 7b
franchard cuisiniere soiree bresilienne 7b
rocher de la salamandre nouvelle vague 7b
rocher d'avon le dansuer 7b
marion des rocher big mak 7b
restant du lang rocher sankookai 7b
maunoury morphomaniacs 7b
maunoury movement activated 7b
mont simonet coincident 7b
petit bois le poids des soupirs 7b
rocher aux sabots smatch 7b
jean des vignes volt face direct 7b
95.2 jafresse airline conection 7b
95.2 the zyno 7b
la mare a plat orgasme cosmique 7a+
rocher saint german triste sir 7a+
rocher de cassepot double axle 7a+
franchard hautes plaines les araignees de mars 7a+
franchard cuisiniere entorse 7a+
franchard cuisiniere la deferlante 7a+
rocher d'avon basta 7a+
mont sarrazin jetable 7a+
95.2 jet michaud 7a+
keo 7a+
videlles les rocher fear factor 7a+
beauvais tse-tse 7a+
bas cuvier west jus de paume 7a
cuvier rempart immodium 7a
la reconnaissance escaflwne 7a
apremont bizons shoot left hand 7a
rocher saint german ariane 4 7a
rocher saint german affirmaatif 7a
rocher de cassepot snake totem 7a
franchard isatis vin rouge 7a
franchard sablons sylphide 7a
gorge du houx titanus 7a
rocher du lang boyau ric et rac 7a
rocher du mont morillon when pigs fly 7a
rocher des demoiselles jet d'eau 7a
restant du lang rocher devers s'y colle 7a
mont simonet paddo jump 7a
mont sarrazin arcansas 7a
rocher fin naufrage d'une illusion 7a
rocher aux sabots jet set 7a
rocher aux sabots le bond del l'hippotame 7a
bois rond toubib or not toubib 7a
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Magic Circus looks quality!
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Where,s the measurements neil! No SCIENCE
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Where,s the measurements neil! No SCIENCE
dont worry I have a little project in the making, 3rd of the way there, I am going to all hte dynos in the forest and measure everysingle one of them just for you :)
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Cheers. Hurry along now. I'm sure you are going to do them all too!
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neil could tell me which dyno jacadi is please? i know that there is two on same roof next to each other, is it on the left or right as you look into the cave?
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its the left one as you look in, a hold has broke but its still possible, a freind of mine got very close to doing it last time we were there
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bloody hell neil thats some dyno list!
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wow that sounds sick hard gd effort by him ,thanks thats cleared that up for me
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bloody hell neil thats some dyno list!
yeah imagine all the time u could waste doing dynos in arguably the best area in the world for technical climbing
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bloody hell neil thats some dyno list!
yeah imagine all the time u could waste doing dynos in arguably the best area in the world for technical climbing
Its hardly a waste if time, dynos are great fun on rest days and rainy days ;D
anyway a lot of the dyno's in font are very technical
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As I've been dubbed The Guardian of the Churnet, think its my duty to add this to the list. The Pegasus Dyno F7b+ = 178cm. At Gentleman's, Basically its the starting holds of the nose problem to the ledge. ie without the use of the two biggies out right as per Nose Prob.
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what about pif paf? at cuvier, the double handed dyno, thats 7a isn't it?
right good fun anyway, should be on anyones list
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what about pif paf? at cuvier, the double handed dyno, thats 7a isn't it?
right good fun anyway, should be on anyones list
I agree, bit easy but fun, its in one of my videos
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new dyno in the wye valley down south, going back to distance 203cm around 7c ish worth a jump if you like dynos and your near by. There are a two others near by going from around 150cm to 175cm both good fun and about 7a+ ishjavascript:void(0);
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new dyno in the wye valley down south, going back to distance 203cm around 7c ish worth a jump if you like dynos and your near by. There are a two others near by going from around 150cm to 175cm both good fun and about 7a+ ishjavascript:void(0);
Where are these at, yo?
Is the 7c the infamous huntsham project?
Nice one.
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ezy nick yeah its on the boulder below the slug cant remember the name but the one tom w has been on for a while, two crimps to sloping crack really good! Tech two hand catch as well as the 2meters between lots fun in the swing im down there sunday got sick new project to try out come up if your near
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can you repeat that paragraph in english?
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Just sprinkle a liberal handful of missing fullstops, and it should start making more sense. ;)
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Good effort Dave, was in Yorks over the weekend but down that way this coming Sat/Sun, will give you a shout.
I'll try and upload a pic of this dyno - it is both big and nails. Top effort.
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cheers nic, hopefully cu sat/sun
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theres a new dyno in town 7c+/8a......... Does not look far but the holds you are pulling of are very poor, right hand is half pad one finger undercut, left hand is undercut sloper full pad deep, the bloc is about 15 degree overhanging and the top aint no jug ;)
(http://www.maisonbleau.com/Image0.jpg)
(http://www.maisonbleau.com/Image1.jpg)
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Looks like a good line, is that at Cuisiniere?
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Dynos aren't really "lines" though, are they? More like two points in space...
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Dynos aren't really "lines" though, are they? More like two points in space...
Tsk, tsk, you need to brush up on your Eucledian Geometry (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euclidean_geometry) Fiend as any two points have a unique straight line
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straight_line#Euclidean_geometry) connecting them.
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Dynos aren't really "lines" though, are they? More like two points in space...
So Deliverance isn't a line? Or Buckstone Dyno? Or Hale Bopp? Or Smatch? Or Quent's Dyno?
You make me sick with your pathetic static climbing nonsense. Pah, it's just a lack of vision, Fiendy my old mucker. Get on some leapy stuff :P
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Dynos aren't really "lines" though, are they? More like two points in space...
As opposed to several points in space, like most boulder probs :P
I guess cracks and whatnot would be "lines" in your book, saying that a crack is a bit like the opposite of a line too, a kind of line-negative
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saying that a crack is a bit like the opposite of a line too, a kind of line-negative
or an enil?
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Looks like a good line, is that at Cuisiniere?
na a new bloc just opened at Rocher des Demoiselles
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Dynos aren't really "lines" though, are they? More like two points in space...
:wank:
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Looks like a quality dyno!
Font in 3 weeks!, come on!!
:)
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a new bloc just opened
For anyone who doesn't have their euro-british climbing dictionary handy, this means "a recently developed boulder".
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English translation from the Jive-talkin mutha-fucka, whatever next?
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its anglo-jive all the way. I hate it when a thread reads like a bad babelfish translation.
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its anglo-jive all the way. I hate it when a thread reads like a bad westwood show script.
::) :P
Dynos are about as much "climbing" as slack-lining is - tangential gimmickry, lauded by a few and irrelevant to most. Not least in the context of this thread where the further apart the holds are, the less of a climbing feature there actually is on the rock.
Anyway as you were, gents ;)
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its anglo-jive all the way. I hate it when a thread reads like a bad westwood show script.
::) :P
Dynos are about as much "climbing" as slack-lining is - tangential gimmickry, lauded by a few and irrelevant to most. Not least in the context of this thread where the further apart the holds are, the less of a climbing feature there actually is on the rock.
Anyway as you were, gents ;)
So what do you think of Sharma's dyno on that arch in the Med?
Finish to Barriers in Time?
C'mon, you've clearly not been reading PATRul's posts, you need to o p e n y o u r m i n d
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Dynos are about as much "climbing" as slack-lining is - tangential gimmickry
So to extrapolate backwards, at what point does any dynamic movement become relevant to climbing? Lunging? Slapping? Deadpointing? Or is static 3-points-of-contact the only real climbing in your eyes? Not being pedantic, just intrigued by the viewpoint.
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On the other hand, doing dynos must be good for avoiding DVT.
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I dont hink dynos are real climbing, but take away all those routes that have a dynamic move in there and thats a good proportion or routes that would never be climbed
anyway what other type of climbing can you do when your drunk, slab? :-\
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all those routes that have a dynamic move in there
especially since that is all of them, by definition.
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Dave your earlier posts made a lot of kittens cry >:(
Why is it that all the dyno afficianados are tall people anyway?? You'd have though they wouldn't have needed to do it....
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Yeah Johnny Dawes, what a giant. You're talking nonsense Fiend. Suggesting dynos aren't climbing is about as forward looking as calling 'buttress climbs' 'unjustifiable'. Get with the fuckin programme, its 2009, this was supposed to be the future, where is my jetpack etc?
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I think dyno's are ace :thumbsup: and I am mostly all short.
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Dawes is an exception as well you know, and the midget massive has only just turned up on this thread HI NIK.
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A lot of Dynos are harder if you're tall, especially the ones with high feet.
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Shut up you lanky tart.
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:agree: :lol:
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I'm sick to the back teeth of these whinging short people, moaning about how hard done by they are and how far away holds are.
Not my fault you stopped growing prematurely :-*
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I'm sick to the back teeth of these whinging short people, moaning about how hard done by they are and how far away holds are.
Not my fault you stopped growing prematurely :-*
:lol:
I get it all the time, they're just jealous that we're 6 inches stronger.....
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I get it all the time, they're just jealous that we're 6 inches stronger.....
Nik's only 5'3", so it's more than 6 inches.
But what he lacks in height, he makes up for in whinging. 8)
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Thin white duke had to go to DEF CON 1 to do froggy dick after been beaten to victors ledge by a smaller, much heavier person
(http://i36.tinypic.com/5y9t0m.jpg)
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I don't think the camp hand was helping.
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I get it all the time, they're just jealous that we're 6 inches stronger.....
Nik's only 5'3", so it's more than 6 inches.
But what he lacks in height, he makes up for in whinging. 8)
Jeez, I thought I was short.
There is definately a basic correlation between stature and size of chip on shoulder
Something like actual height + chip height = 6'6"
Above that height people stoop a little in a negative-chip way. This also goes some way to explain why scots (in general) display the largest chips on their shoulders.
Although, it has to be said that not everyones chip manifests itself in a feeling hard done by kind of way. Some of us are just ridiculously overcompetitive ;D
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There is definately a basic correlation between stature and size of chip on shoulder
Something like actual height + chip height = 6'6"
I think it's more like:
Chip size = size of people you climb with
height x span
I'm average height, with just under average span, but climb with a bunch of lanky streaks of piss, and have a colossal chip perched on my deltoid. I'm sure that if I climbed with Ru or Stu I'd be much less bitter. Of course then I'd probably give up climbing due to being burnt off all the time.
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There is definately a basic correlation between stature and size of chip on shoulder
Something like actual height + chip height = 6'6"
I think it's more like:
Chip size = size of people you climb with
height x span
I'm average height, with just under average span, but climb with a bunch of lanky streaks of piss, and have a colossal chip perched on my deltoid. I'm sure that if I climbed with Ru or Stu I'd be much less bitter. Of course then I'd probably give up climbing due to being burnt off all the time.
:agree: I did think about a multiple
For indoor boulder problems it would be very similar to yours
(Height of setter - my height)^2 = how shit I will say the problem and or setting and or setter is (are)
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Classic toxic dwarf syndrome.
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Thin white duke had to go to DEF CON 1 to do froggy dick after been beaten to victors ledge by a smaller, much heavier person
(http://i36.tinypic.com/5y9t0m.jpg)
Trouser-free ascent for extra antigrav.
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its anglo-jive all the way. I hate it when a thread reads like a bad westwood show script.
::) :P
Dynos are about as much "climbing" as slack-lining is - tangential gimmickry, lauded by a few and irrelevant to most. Not least in the context of this thread where the further apart the holds are, the less of a climbing feature there actually is on the rock.
Anyway as you were, gents ;)
Finish to Barriers in Time?
:o :o
was scared doing it the normal way
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A lot of Dynos are harder if you're tall, especially the ones with high feet.
agree there.
dyno's are also an easy way of massaging your ego in font,7's are alot more do'able.
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C'mon Jim. That ain't DEFCON 1, thats DEFCON 2.
DEFCON 1 is a bollock naked ascent - tried and tested on Loskotts Harvest Moon in the Deep South of the US many years ago. I would have been dead if a local redneck had caught me in the woods with nowt on, thus giving me the extra psyche needed for to dispatch!
DEFCON 1 is saved as a serious last resort though, honest :-[
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after been beaten to victors ledge by a smaller, much heavier person
None other than Shaun Ryder himself! I didn't even know he climbed, so imagine my delight at catching him burning off an almost-naked ex junior champion!
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/jim-dick.jpg)
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Ace t-shirt.
Not sure I like the way this thread seems to be suggesting I am a bitter and twisted dwarf...
(I am a bit taller than 5'3")
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(I am a bit taller than 5'3")
Aye, 5' 31/2"
When you have to give your height in 1/2 inches, you're desperately trying to sound taller. It's like when kids say they are 5 and 3/4, instead of 5.
It's sad that people can't just accept who they really are........
......SHORT ARSES!!! :lol:
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dynos in font part 1 (http://www.vimeo.com/7292258)
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Nice vid (yet again!) Neil.
Fav is @1m20 looks very slopey holds to be hanging
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pif paf at cuvier, think jims fav
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Can someone confirm which holds the 7 Foot Dyno at Pex goes from? I'd heard it was from break to break, but I suspect it's holds 2 and 4 below, having been today and also looked at Pex and the City. Going from 1 and 3 felt about 7a/+ but I only had a brief look.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/7FootDynocopy.jpg)
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Could you not just measure 7ft from the finishing hold and presumably the hold would be there?
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I did, but I want to be sure which holds are right.
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I don't the answer I'm afraid Gareth (I hate dynos) but give us a shout if you come down this way again.
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Will do. Next time Disney on Ice is on, and it isn't raining, I'll give you a shout :lol:
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I did wonder what the fuck you were doing at Pex on a day like today.
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Pex in the pissing rain. Disney on Ice.
Tough choice :-\
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2 and 4 lad. Get it done!
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Thanks for that. In which case, back to SCIENCE:
1. Rainbow Rocket 245cm Franchard Sablons
2. Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. Solid Air 228cm Eastby
4. Undercut Dyno 223cm The Roaches
5. 7 foot dyno 213cm 215cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
6. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
7= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
7= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
9. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
10. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
11. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
12. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
13. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
14= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
14= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
16. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
17. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
18. Dynostrung 167cm Brownstones
19. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
20. Rick's Dyno 164cm Jumbles
21. Mr. Tickle 162cm Dumbarton
22. Young American 157cm Stoney
23= Megatron 155cm Stoney
23= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
Honorary mentions:
Zion ~260cm Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
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Why is Zion merely an honourary mention again?? Is it because it lacks the aesthetics of, say, the 7 foot Dyno??
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Because nobody has formally measured it.
I guess the official list is thus:
1. Rainbow Rocket 245cm Franchard Sablons
2. Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
3. Solid Air 228cm Eastby
4. Undercut Dyno 223cm The Roaches
5. 7 foot dyno 215cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
6. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
7= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
7= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
9. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
10. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
11. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
12. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
13. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
14= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
14= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
16. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
17. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
18. Dynostrung 167cm Brownstones
19. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
20. Rick's Dyno 164cm Jumbles
21. Mr. Tickle 162cm Dumbarton
22. Young American 157cm Stoney
23= Megatron 155cm Stoney
23= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
Honorary mentions:
Zion ~260cm Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
Where those in italics are ones that haven'y been measured by the LankyDynometerTM.
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new dyno in the wye valley down south, going back to distance 203cm around 7c ish worth a jump if you like dynos and your near by. There are a two others near by going from around 150cm to 175cm both good fun and about 7a+ ishjavascript:void(0);
Here's a couple of photos of this, and an eliminate version of it. Both are big, hard and unrepeated as far as I know. Get to it.
Original problem:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2802/4447788703_8185c87569_b.jpg)
From the other side, showing the swing:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4448558898_06dbc47d38_b.jpg)
Eliminating the jug:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/4448581560_b650bd149b_b.jpg)
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Edited with back-links.
Original problem:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2802/4447788703_8185c87569.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25829040@N04/4447788703)
From the other side, showing the swing:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4448558898_06dbc47d38.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25829040@N04/4448558898)
Eliminating the jug:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/4448581560_b650bd149b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25829040@N04/4448581560)
EDIT: Beat me to it Nic :lol:
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Nice one dyno dave. and nice pics as per nic.
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:spam:cheers andi thanks Nic. Still lookin for bigger moves, swiz, Austria and Italy. I'll let ya kno if any turn up! :)
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So I've now done the 5th biggest dyno in the World, and I only get 7A for it?
P.s. YYFY!
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when are you back from europe dave? you need to come up to leeds
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hey andy, still in europe for a while. Been sniffing out sum jumps here and there, in val daone at mo (italy). Got a project dyno 244cm step up style, pretty difficult. Did one in cresciano dont kno if its been done before, and also one in magic that i dont kno if its new or not. Ill try and get sum pics of them put on the site. Ill be up to leeds deffinatly when i get back but so much to do around here, Mello next then Zillertal. hope ya well mate catch ya soon
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A short flight.... but is it the hardest dyno? It cropped up in piece on the hardest single move problems (and yes fellow accolytes, Gaskins was eventually mentioned in the thread).
Belly Flop V12/13
http://www.myuctv.com/video?id=687 (http://www.myuctv.com/video?id=687)
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That video makes it look as if you can catch the lip with your hand on the undercut :lol:
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:lol: Those face-plants are well funny, good job he had a ton of mats.
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...and one to stand on to start.
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There is some prime examples of nauseating 'beeeda' style californian come on 'send it' type drivel.... as well.
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Belly Flop V12/13
http://www.myuctv.com/video?id=687 (http://www.myuctv.com/video?id=687)
This guys a dick. "c'mon Chris, c'mon Chris, c'mon Chris, c'mon Chris, " Give it a rest.
Bag of toss
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That's more outwards than upwards and he makes will ackers seem restrained and dignified...
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he makes will ackers seem restrained and dignified...
I am
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Check out this jump by Dave Gater. This guy really can fly it seems. Haven't been able to slow it down at work but I'm sure it'll look amazing in shlo mo.
It's an FA in a place called Daone, Italy. He's on a bit trip around Europe at the moment and done quite a few big dyno FAs. This one is 253/4 cm making it bigger than Rainbow Rocket and with worse holds. He didn't give it a grade.
Good effort mate!
Dave's Massive....Italian Dyno (http://vimeo.com/12847970)
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A short flight.... but is it the hardest dyno? It cropped up in piece on the hardest single move problems (and yes fellow accolytes, Gaskins was eventually mentioned in the thread).
Belly Flop V12/13
http://www.myuctv.com/video?id=687 (http://www.myuctv.com/video?id=687)
I almost cried with laughter watching this!
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Nice video Tom, gotta love dynos!!! Out of interest, how tall is Dave? I note he can get his hand on the final hold with his foot on the starting handhold, which for me is about 240cm:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/Sequence02-1.jpg)
*This is not a criticism of Dave or his dyno, 'cos I reckon it looks ace. But this thread is based on SCIENCE.
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You might be comitting the classic error of parallax there. Foot is in line with finishing hold, but not necessarily on? Finish hold is quite a lot to the left.
A2 = B2 + C2
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What are you talking about. The measurement is from start hold A to finish hold B. At one point foot is on the start hold and hand is on the finishing hold. So the measurement is AB, which is how far you can reach.
Unless dynos are now measured round corners? :P
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No worries. He's measured it with a tape and he's a tradesman so it's certainly 253/4. the angle doesn't show you the full size. Here's a pic:
(http://co117w.col117.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=ba8e9b57-7ecb-11df-9109-001e0bcbbcf0&Aux=44|0|8CCE0EFA45C1120||)
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I think the confusion arises in the point at which the foot ceases contact with the starting handhold. I think the foot comes off, just as the hand reaches the top. Incidentally, is this a bit of an eliminate? It looks like he could just go straight up to a much closer hold. What are the rules regarding eliminates?
Also... is that pic an attachment in an email? That would explain why I can't see it.
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Straight up is an existing dyno at about 7a. I wouldn't agree with eliminate, just variation. Think Rainbow Rocket boulder has a few dynos to different heights from the same hold. This doesn't make any less of a great dyno!
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No worries. He's measured it with a tape and he's a tradesman so it's certainly 253/4. the angle doesn't show you the full size. Here's a pic:
http://co117w.col117.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=ba8e9b57-7ecb-11df-9109-001e0bcbbcf0&Aux=44|0|8CCE0EFA45C1120||
Something wrong with your link Tom.
Drew, I've downloaded it and checked it frame by frame (yes, I'm sad) and his toe is still on the starting hold when his hand is above (gone further and about to come back down on) the finishing hold (see picture in my previous post). So if he stands on right tip toe and does a full reach with his left hand, the dyno is a bit less than that. Which is where I get my 240cm from, so his reach is 14/15cm more than mine.
Eliminate? It's a dyno, the point is the challenge, the technique and the timing. As far as I'm concerned if there's an obvious start and an obvious finish it's a perfect target for a dyno.
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Think Rainbow Rocket boulder has a few dynos to different heights from the same hold. This doesn't make any less of a great dyno!
all the rainbow rocket dynos go from seperate holds, bar the rainbox rocket starting hold itself might actulaly have a 7c+ straight up (rainbow rocket) and maybe a 7b+ diagonally leftward - not really eliminates, more like seperate lines. (My memory of this boulder might not be 100% though).
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Sorry, here you go, let me know if this doesn't work:
(http://pdvoag.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p8Oljqb2L51bfp5b3BhHCxBurq9BZpQwZErk7h5WO6jDq6-5wa4bdxsnISo4wY07zZQju5Xt0Bcv-yKo8iOPlYWkYVluO6fwi/photo.jpg?psid=1)
Yes, he is tall.
"the rainbox rocket starting hold itself might actulaly have a 7c+ straight up (rainbow rocket) and maybe a 7b+ diagonally leftward - not really eliminates, more like seperate lines."
The same as this then?
"Eliminate? It's a dyno, the point is the challenge, the technique and the timing. As far as I'm concerned if there's an obvious start and an obvious finish it's a perfect target for a dyno."
Exactly
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That's photo's genius. Classic tradesman's trick - 'I'll just measure up for the parts', 'hmm, bit for them, bit for me'. I bet his garage is like aladdin's cave...
GCW, you're a genius, more accurate than a man with a tape measure.
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Where does a hold start anyway? If you measure it to the start of the chalk it's only about 244cm. Are there RULES? Or is there only SCIENCE?
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RULES can be broken.
SCIENCE is irrefutable.
The way I measure it is from the highest bit you have a hand on to the nearest bit/lip of the target hold. Call me harsh, but like the budget, I'm fair.
Update:
1. Dave Gators' Dyno 254cm Daone, Italy
2. Rainbow Rocket 245cm Franchard Sablons
3. Iberia 238cm Navalossa, Spain
4. Solid Air 228cm Eastby
5. Undercut Dyno 223cm The Roaches
6. 7 foot dyno 215cm The Glorious, Majestic Pex Hill Quarry
7. The I.L.T. Dyno 207cm Brownstones Quarry
8= Quent's Dyno 205cm Stoney
8= Turbo Kleenex 205cm Albarracin, Spain
10. Ridiculous Dyno 204cm Brownstones
11. Robin's Dyno 198cm Blackstone Edge
12. Greg's Dyno 195cm Trowbarow
13. 6 Foot Sicks 188cm Trowbarrow
14. Kirton Dyno 180cm Stoney
15= George's Wall Dyno 175cm Stoney
15= The Buckstone Dyno 175cm
17. One Arm Bandit 170cm Stoney
18. Jumper's Dyno (aka Niche Dyno) 168cm Brimham
19. Dynostrung 167cm Brownstones
20. Nexus Dyno 165cm Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
21. Rick's Dyno 164cm Jumbles
22. Mr. Tickle 162cm Dumbarton
23. Young American 157cm Stoney
24= Megatron 155cm Stoney
24= Unjust Dyno 155cm Brownstones
Honorary mentions:
Zion ~260cm Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
The Tank Boulder Project 170cm Wimberry
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List transferred to the Wiki (http://www.ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Dyno_SCIENCE), so further list updates will stay there so as to avoid cluttering this thread.
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I think this Daone dyno should be held off the official list. At least till GWC has measured it with his method, from which part of start hold to which part of finish etc. But at least it's a reference to a large dyno.
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Sorry GCW.
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It's noted which ones weren't measured by me, but it looks good so lets leave it on there. Plus I doubt I'll be going there any time soon. Although when I go to Font this year I must remember my tape measure.
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It seems Wyler Skeeks has now latched 285cm. (http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=254)
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Word on the street is that Skyler has made room in his hectic circuit of world ranking jumping competitions for a day out on the grit. Guess where he's headed?
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Kinder Scout?
(More realistically Buckstone Dyno and Deliverance)
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I'll give you a clue - it rhymes with Quim-sherry.
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project dyno thing that you're pictured on?
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I reckon Froggy Dick has to be quite long, and it has an amusingly immature name.
[img]http://www.flickr.com/photos/50683012@N05/4733987526/[img]
No idea how long. But Anthony is about 6 foot 3 I think (guestimate) and he barely made it.
2m+ I would guess...?
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I reckon Froggy Dick has to be quite long, and it has an amusingly immature name.
[img]http://www.flickr.com/photos/50683012@N05/4733987526/[img]
No idea how long. But Anthony is about 6 foot 3 I think (guestimate) and he barely made it.
2m+ I would guess...?
You've pasted the URL of the page that displays the picture rather than the URL of the image itself. See here (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/HowTo_Embed_Pictures_to_UKBouldering) for how to embed images, with particular detail on pictures hosted at Flickr (although if you're on the "new" Flickr page layout the Greasmonkey script option won't work as its designed to work with the old style pages).
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(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1003/4733987526_b93349b7f0.jpg)
If he's 6'3" and the starting handhold is by his shin, it's a lot shorter than the Roaches Dyno (which is 223cm). Could be 2m though.
However, I am off to Font soon and I will take the Official Dyno Measurerer with me.
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For sure - First attempt at embedding photos, perhaps next time I wont be such a failure :(
I just read back and froggy dick has already been posted. But I still thought it was super impressive when he did it, not the longest ever, but more than I could think about touching.
Needs a tape measure so we can get science on the business.
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I'm guessing from the lack of announcements that Skyler didn't get the Wimberry dyno project? Was he close though?
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Not heard anything since they told me they were going. Its more technical than big, and conditions on the day weren't ideal, so I didn't rate his chances that highly, but then again he is Skyler Fucking Weeks.
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Not heard anything since they told me they were going. Its more technical than big, and conditions on the day weren't ideal, so I didn't rate his chances that highly, but then again he is Skyler Fucking Weeks.
Hit the edge twice but unable to hold. When went back had ragged his skin from dynoing his way round stanage and unable to complete unfortunately. Went down south for some DWS dynos before heading home.
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(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1003/4733987526_b93349b7f0.jpg)
If he's 6'3" and the starting handhold is by his shin, it's a lot shorter than the Roaches Dyno (which is 223cm). Could be 2m though.
However, I am off to Font soon and I will take the Official Dyno Measurerer with me.
froggy dick is small, you dont have to jump really if your 6 foot and above, more or a quick step up
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about 220 for froggy dick, just measured it
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It's noted which ones weren't measured by me, but it looks good so lets leave it on there. Plus I doubt I'll be going there any time soon. Although when I go to Font this year I must remember my tape measure.
shame you here when i go away, if you forget your tape measure you can borrow minw :)
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I've packed it already, just in case :lol:
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good man for getting out there quickly with the tape measure
(by the way neil I think I accidentally left my copy of echo wall in one of your gites - but I took your copy of pilgrimage in my computer disk tray. Maybe we can swap back if I return?)
and re: you dont have to jump really if your 6 foot and above, more or a quick step up
rather too much technique and dynamism for my liking.
How far is slam? - that has to be fairly high no?
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good man for getting out there quickly with the tape measure
(by the way neil I think I accidentally left my copy of echo wall in one of your gites - but I took your copy of pilgrimage in my computer disk tray. Maybe we can swap back if I return?)
and re: you dont have to jump really if your 6 foot and above, more or a quick step up
rather too much technique and dynamism for my liking.
you can keep pilgrimage its rubbish, but you can ave echo wall back ;D
How far is slam? - that has to be fairly high no?
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just been reading up on the skyler dyno 'zion'. seems v8 is the grade now,but skyler keeps bringing up the old chestnut that he used differant foot holds.well thats the way it is,if its easier the v8 way did he not use them.
is he in charge of his own hype?
can he do real hard dynos? saw chris grahams catapult at kyloe yesterday.that looks seriously hard.not a million miles but tough as.....
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It would seem so: (http://www.skyweekes.blogspot.com/)
There is so much rock in the near 50 miles to where i'm staying that it blows my mind. This place is also made for dynoing which is excellent! After the world record I put my best effort to get the FA of the Wimberry Dyno. This has been said to be one of the worlds hardest dyno projects and has been tried since 1990. The best climbers in the world have tried and failed! I gave it everything I had and landed in the end jug's lip 2 times and got spat out..so sad!
Today I cleaned and found a HUGE project in Stanage that I also landed in the lip of teh jug 2 or 3 times! My whole body is aching and i'm bleeding from 6 fingers as I type haha... I have exented my stay in sheffield/peak distric to finish off these First Ascents until they go down! Rest day tomorrow... So excited!
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haha, how unfortunate(fortunate) for the police to be there to stop him soloing that arch.
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Well, Dave Gater has done it again! He recently got the FA of a mamouth dyno in Mlynsky Vrch, Czech Repubilc, whilst on his Euro tour. The 'Czech Chuck' is the biggest dyno he's ever done and larger than his recent addition in Daone, Italy. He hasn't given a measurement (to aviod controversy) but it has to be up there (or further) with the biggest around.
I have to say, I've seen a lot of dynos and I've seen him crush many 8a dynos with ease and this looks like one of his finest. He is easily the most naturally talented dynoer I've ever seen, nearly sending Catapult years ago in a couple of sessions before a series of injuries stopped him. Here's a vid of a failed attempt but he does have one of him sending it. Unfotunately, he's having problems sending that one over. It's also worth noting that he did this on his own over a very bad and slopey landing. Enjoy:
The Czech Chuck (http://vimeo.com/13851780)
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That looks vast!
Don't see how not measuring it avoids controversy.
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2nd gen! good work dave
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Tom. I quite liked the look of his shirt, but unfortunately it was out of shot before I clocked the brand. Perhaps in future it would be possible to designate a few seconds at either the end, or better still the beginning of these video shorts to advertise any fancy clothing/equipment? :)
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Now that's a good idea :-\ Afriad I can't help you with this one either.
Incredible looking dyno! Pretty good effort to put up to massive and impressive dynos (this one and one in Daone, Italy) in two countries a few weeks apart.
FA of The Czech Chuck (http://vimeo.com/13865479)
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It would seem so: (http://www.skyweekes.blogspot.com/)
We went out to Dumble Door tonight
Seems like someone is struggling to tell the difference between Harry Potter and Dorset Geography,
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Just out of interest does anyone know what kind of distance Sousis D'air is at St Germain? I have been looking at sum pictures and it looks quite big. Neil maybe you could help if your in the woods with your tape.
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Does anyone know if Catapult at Kyloe has seen a second ascent yet?
Cheers
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FA of The Czech Chuck
That is mental, love the foot jump, one of the few genuinely interesting dyno things I've seen.
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Does anyone know if Catapult at Kyloe has seen a second ascent yet?
Cheers
Don't think so. Don't think Chris has even repeated it. One ascent and that's it as far as I'm aware. The only person I've heard of getting really close is Dave and that was just after the FA many years ago. Got footage of him hitting the break again and again and nearly holding it a couple of times. Injury stopped him but hopefully when he gets back strong from his Euro mission he'll give it another go.
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Tom. I quite liked the look of his shirt, but unfortunately it was out of shot before I clocked the brand. Perhaps in future it would be possible to designate a few seconds at either the end, or better still the beginning of these video shorts to advertise any fancy clothing/equipment? :)
:lol:
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Does anyone know if Catapult at Kyloe has seen a second ascent yet?
Cheers
Don't think so. Don't think Chris has even repeated it. One ascent and that's it as far as I'm aware. The only person I've heard of getting really close is Dave and that was just after the FA many years ago. Got footage of him hitting the break again and again and nearly holding it a couple of times. Injury stopped him but hopefully when he gets back strong from his Euro mission he'll give it another go.
I didn't think anyone had repeated it, I thought Earl may have done it at some point.
I did the same last weekend. I have footage of myself hitting the break several times. I'm pretty sure I would have done it last week but i had to stop trying because it destroyed my girly skin. Off next weekend to finish the job hopefully.
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Get it done mate!!! Would be a really good tick.....so would monk life. You tried that?
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Just out of interest does anyone know what kind of distance Sousis D'air is at St Germain? I have been looking at sum pictures and it looks quite big. Neil maybe you could help if your in the woods with your tape.
I was actually going there today, tape measure in hand, but it started pissing down so I never made it.
However, I've updated the official dyno list on the wiki. Have a look. (http://www.ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Dyno_SCIENCE#Measured_Dynos)
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Does anyone know if Catapult at Kyloe has seen a second ascent yet?
Cheers
Interesting... :-\ on the other channel someone has ticked it on 9/8/10 apparently but they are set as 'hidden'.
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Just out of interest does anyone know what kind of distance Sousis D'air is at St Germain? I have been looking at sum pictures and it looks quite big. Neil maybe you could help if your in the woods with your tape.
its not far, I can span between the two holds, but its a sidways dyno and the crux is holding the hold because its rubbish, dont bother
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on the other channel someone has ticked it on 9/8/10 apparently but they are set as 'hidden'.
Let me guess, marked down as "TR, Dnf"?
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Oh right, well it looked quite far. Totally cut loose from the rock between holds. I thought it was actully a very gd dyno. I think the crimp is essential to stick the swing, but as distance goes do we have an idea?
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Oh right, well it looked quite far. Totally cut loose from the rock between holds. I thought it was actully a very gd dyno. I think the crimp is essential to stick the swing, but as distance goes do we have an idea?
its not far, I can span between the two holds, but its a sidways dyno and the crux is holding the hold because its rubbish, dont bother
[/quote]
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on the other channel someone has ticked it on 9/8/10 apparently but they are set as 'hidden'.
Let me guess, marked down as "TR, Dnf"?
Obviously not or else i wouldnt have commented on it. It just says 'sent'.
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on the other channel someone has ticked it on 9/8/10 apparently but they are set as 'hidden'.
Let me guess, marked down as "TR, Dnf"?
Obviously not or else i wouldnt have commented on it. It just says 'sent'.
I thought someone would have heard about it if it had got a second ascent? I was down there trying it on the 7th! Bugger!
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on the other channel someone has ticked it on 9/8/10 apparently but they are set as 'hidden'.
Let me guess, marked down as "TR, Dnf"?
Obviously not or else i wouldnt have commented on it. It just says 'sent'.
I thought someone would have heard about it if it had got a second ascent? I was down there trying it on the 7th! Bugger!
Just what i thought! although if they are set as hidden it could just be a modest person who has done it and uses ukc just as a record for himself. I'll probably see Chris on wednesday so i'll ask if he knows anything about this.
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Wonder if the same 'hidden' who has done the darkside at back bowden
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Wonder if the same 'hidden' who has done the darkside at back bowden
:-\
I'm sure if it's been done we'll find out who's done it.............
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It was Medwards on a family holiday. He thought it E13 6c though.
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Catapult 8a+ (http://vimeo.com/14327544)
2nd ascent?
My mate Tom asked Springer and he seems to think so.
Get in! :P
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Fuckin' hell Will, good effort!! :o How long did it take you? Looked like you could have gone further too. You should get yourself over to Wimberry.
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Cheers man.
3rd go, second session. Under 20 attempts I reckon.
Psyched! :)
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What Johnny said :o :jaw:
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Yep thats a great effort. I was totally gob smacked by catapult when I first saw it in the flesh. Nice one.
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As said elsewhere Will, nice one.
(and nice one you too richie).
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Cheers guys, I'm well happy!
I might have to make a trip to Wimberry in the winter for some more jumping around! :bounce:
Does anyone know of it having another ascent? Is the UKC log a load of bull? :shrug:
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I would take the UKC log with a large pinch of salt...
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Nice one word. Catapult is one of the most ridicolous looking things I've ever seen. It looks about 8d. For that reason alone I bet its had fuckall repeats, difficulty of climbing notwithstanding.
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Cheers guys, I'm well happy
That's funny, you sounded a little glum in the video...
You made it look so easy though, where is the difficulty?
Length?
Holds?
Both?
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aren't you all spelling it wrong? I could swear the first reports had it as Caterpult but that might just be me ;)
Edit, the right hand is in a shit shallow mono, the left hand is on an undercut. Its fucking miles too.
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i thought the left hand was a juggy rugosity thing? The mono is pretty shallow and slopey, but i suppose the footholds are good/big.
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aren't you all spelling it wrong? I could swear the first reports had it as Caterpult but that might just be me ;)
Edit, the right hand is in a shit shallow mono, the left hand is on an undercut. Its fucking miles too.
According to UKC log book it's Catapult, according to Springers video it's Caterpult, hmmmmm :-\
The Mono is piss poor and it's really hard to get your feet up as well, plus it's miles!
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Dave - Juggy, rugositys can't also be undercuts? :shrug:
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Dave - Juggy, rugositys can't also be undercuts? :shrug:
It's a bit of both.......... :lol:
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Dave - Juggy, rugositys can't also be undercuts? :shrug:
I never said it wasn't an undercut....
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I heard you jump from a slopy jug and a four finger mono to the break, which is a gaston undercut.
Well, distance?
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Well, distance?
far
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Wonder if the same 'hidden' who has done the darkside at back bowden
Maybe there's some young mutant dark horse in the County. Did anyone see a bicycle parked at either Back Bowden or Kyloe Out really early one morning? Or a wandering Spanish spotter?
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Respect willackers! I've been there, but not as far as u! Gd work, from sustenpass!
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Does anyone know of it having another ascent? Is the UKC log a load of bull? :shrug:
Sorry forgot to post back on here..
Spoke to Chris on friday about this thread and the ukc claim. He wasnt aware of another ascent. He did mention a friend of a friend called tom in edinburgh trying it though, am guessing this is you! Big well done!! :thumbsup:
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I heard you jump from a slopy jug and a four finger mono to the break, which is a gaston undercut.
Well, distance?
Got to love those 4 finger mono's :-)
Good effort on catapult.
Not only a big jump but more importantly it looks technical(if a dyno can be technical)
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spotted these on the other channel this morning. Both over 250cm, quite a long way
FA of The Czech Chuck (http://vimeo.com/13865479)
Dave's Massive Italian Dyno (http://vimeo.com/12847970)
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Both already in the thread ;)
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oops, seems ukc news is 2 pages behind us in reporting, i am shocked
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I heard you jump from a slopy jug and a four finger mono to the break, which is a gaston undercut
Sounds like shagging to me!
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I wonder If you know about the massive Dyno project near Kentmere...
I have done one Jug to Jug rt wards,
The Jug on the lft I have latched loads but never held the swing...
ring any bells???
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Is that the thing at Tongue Scar, Pat?
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No!
going to keep a little quiet about it... cause its a little bit brilliant.
the start jug is located to the right of both finishing holds... so its a diagonal trajectory.
Its well on the beaten track. Just not obvious at all!
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Cool, let me know when you get it done so I can measure it :lol:
I should get back on my dyno projects, although my knees may never thank me for it.
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I am doing all the Tors around the South West... Not many dynos!
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YET!
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Hey Pat, they were selling a beer in The Sheaf last week called "Idle Eyes". I found it amusing. :beer2:
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I bet it was strong, dark... had a great body... and no one liked it!!!
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:lol:
Didn't try it, too expensive.....
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I saw that in he hunters the other week too...
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37 meter dyno, take some to beat this ;D
37 m Kingswing Dyno! (http://www.vimeo.com/14904715)
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:lol:
That's awesome!
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ok my new font dyno vid for you all to enjoy, I had to erase the last one as my new official font dyno list didnt have half of them on there
So 157 dynos in font above 7a, here are is the first 50 for you
Part 1 of dyno dose (http://www.vimeo.com/15026645)
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I predict GCW will fully spunk his pants when he sees that.
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he already did when I sent him the list and a tape measure,
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:lol:
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Still 134 to measure.......
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ok measure these, in order of the video
52 gerald 7c
Basta 7a+
Bigmak 7b
Boysfly 7a
Toubis or toubid 7a
Lentre deau 7a
Cannonball 7b
Surplomb de la coquille direct 7a+
Le 9 dur 7a
Double jeu jete 7a+
Smash 7b
Crapovski 7a+
Deua foux un plats real 7c
Double dyno at gorge oux chats 6c
Fanny chipie 7b
Froggy dick 7b
Gasthaus unterslag 7c
Immodium assis 7b+
Jafresse airline connexction7b+
Jakori droit 7b+
Jet deau 7a+
Jet set 7a
L'Ange Naf 7c
Jet set at manoury 7a
Jump 7b
Jump at st germain 7b+
Kangaroo city 7b
La danseur 7b
Le bivouac assis 7c
Le jue de pomme 7a
L;oblique 7a
Megawatt 7c+
Mortal transfert 7b
Movment activated 7b
Naufrage dun illusion 7a+
Nouvelle vague 7b+
Phobos moon 7c+
Peter pan 7b+
Rainbow rocket 7c+
Soiree bresilienne 7b
Sur-prisses 7b+
Sylphide 7a
Un explosion de bonhier 7b
Vin rouge 7a
Vision descaflowne 7a
Voltex 7b+
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ok measure these, in order of the video
52 gerald 7c
Basta 7a+
Bigmak 7b
Boysfly 7a
Toubib or toubib 7a 96cm
Lentre deau 7a
Cannonball 7b 210cm
Surplomb de la coquille direct 7a+
Le 9 dur 7a
Double jeu jete 7a+
Smash 7b 228cm
Crapovski 7a+
Deua foux un plats real 7c
Double dyno at gorge oux chats 6c
Fanny chipie 7b
Froggy dick 7b 216cm
Gasthaus unterslag 7c
Immodium assis 7b+
Jafresse airline connexction7b+
Jakori droit 7b+ 158cm
Jet deau 7a+
Jet set 7a
L'Ange Naf 7c
Jet set at manoury 7a
Jump 7b
Jump at st germain 7b+
Kangaroo city 7b
La danseur 7b
Le bivouac assis 7c
Le jue de pomme 7a
L'oblique 7a
Megawatt 7c+
Mortal transfert 7b 200cm
Movment activated 7b 216cm
Naufrage dun illusion 7a+
Nouvelle vague 7b+
Phobos moon 7c+
Peter pan 7b+
Rainbow rocket 7c+ 234cm
Soiree bresilienne 7b
Sur-prises 7b+
Sylphide 7a 173cm
Un explosion de bonhier 7b
Vin rouge 7a+ 194cm
Vision descaflowne 7a
Voltex 7b+ 221cm
Give us a special discount and we'll come to measure more :P
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ok did a little measuring in the forest today
my new dyno the big G at franchard raymond 180cm goes at 7a+
the project dyno, we were hitting the holds but it was wet 240cm its going to be big, 40 degree overhanging and jumping up and sidways, will post some footage soon
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Well, after going to Spian for 2 weeks to meet Dave Gater, he amazed me with his dynoing skills. We went to Escorial (very conditions dependant) where he sent a 7c+ in a few goes and an 8a dyno in 4 goes (incidentally called Catapult). We then went to Navalosa, where he nearly flashed Iberia, an incredible dyno on a perfect block. He did it second go - easily. This is well known for being a big, far dyno and settled at 8a. He then proceeded to do the sit start into the dyno at 8a+. The climbing is technical and thin. It took several goes for him to latch the dyno start holds but he then did the dyno as soon as he completed the start.
Then it was off to Albarracin, where he flashed Turbo Kleenex - 8a. He then proved how easy he found it by doing it double in a couple of goes!!!
This is an awesome acheivement and shows how talented he is at dynos (he has climbed an 8a "proper problem" too). If he finds all those 8as so easy then think how hard those FAs in Czech and Italy must be!!! They still remain ungraded. I've been climbing for a while now and never seen anyone who can dyno like him
I have footage and vids of all of this (plus lots of other cool photos of hard and not so hard but nice stuff). I can't upload it for a week or two so watch this space
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You almost write like you're trying to quieten neighsayers, of which there are none.
I look forward to the vid. I hope you measured the appropriate dynos. If not, get back around :lol:
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No, not at all. Just thought it was news worthy as I found it very impressive! We did take some measurements but can't remember what they were
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Agree it's most impressive!
We did take some measurements but can't remember what they were
Bloody useless ;)
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I know ;)
I'll see if Dave wrote them down
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Well, after going to Spian for 2 weeks to meet Dave Gater, he amazed me with his dynoing skills. We went to Escorial (very conditions dependant) where he sent a 7c+ in a few goes and an 8a dyno in 4 goes (incidentally called Catapult). We then went to Navalosa, where he nearly flashed Iberia, an incredible dyno on a perfect block. He did it second go - easily. This is well known for being a big, far dyno and settled at 8a. He then proceeded to do the sit start into the dyno at 8a+. The climbing is technical and thin. It took several goes for him to latch the dyno start holds but he then did the dyno as soon as he completed the start.
Then it was off to Albarracin, where he flashed Turbo Kleenex - 8a. He then proved how easy he found it by doing it double in a couple of goes!!!
This is an awesome acheivement and shows how talented he is at dynos (he has climbed an 8a "proper problem" too). If he finds all those 8as so easy then think how hard those FAs in Czech and Italy must be!!! They still remain ungraded. I've been climbing for a while now and never seen anyone who can dyno like him
I have footage and vids of all of this (plus lots of other cool photos of hard and not so hard but nice stuff). I can't upload it for a week or two so watch this space
Impressive stuff! :bow:
After all that dyno practice he should returning and crushing catapult then! :)
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Here's a vid of Dave sending Toy Story in Spain. Whilst climbing at Escorial (where Dave sent several hard dynos) a couple of locals told us about a dyno that was done over 10 years ago and thought to be 8b/8b+. It had never had a repeat. SInce then loads of strong spanish climbers have tried it including Danni Andrada. Danni apparently said he thought it was at least 8b. Along comes Dave and does it in a few sessions.
Toy Story:
Toy story (http://vimeo.com/16332670)
Thanks to Miguel and boulderfreaks.blogspot.com for the vid
Also, have a look at this little vid I threw together. It includes an FA of a very hard dyno project at Escorial at the end. Unfortunaltey the footage doesn't do it justice but Dave reckoned it is as hard as Toy Story. Take a look at the second ascent of Iberia SDS (8a+) too. Well impressive!
http://cid-c6739a973be63e59.photos.live.com/self.aspx/Dave%20Crushing!/Dave%20Crushing.wmv (http://cid-c6739a973be63e59.photos.live.com/self.aspx/Dave%20Crushing!/Dave%20Crushing.wmv)
(Can't seem to embed, if anyone can feel free to)
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Top class dynoage. :bow:
but did you measure any of them?
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Dave did but I haven't got any of the measurements. I'll try and find out and get back to you
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Ok here are the distances:
Iberia: 247cm
Turbo Kleenex: 202cm
Catapult: 171cm
Saturn: 242cm
Toy Story: 180cm
Anticristo (not in vid), 7c+ at Escorial: 208cm
Czech Chuck: 260cm
Daone asaur (Daone, Italy): 252cm
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wow,
I genuinely didn't expect a reply to that.
Top class.
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:great:
Nice one, Toy Story looks nails!
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me and mike are on it, its raining here in font, were of to spain for some toy story action
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Two pretty boring questions, 1- heard a word that Mr Weekes has been in the UK over the summer checking out some project jumps. Anyone know how he got on, or what he ticked?
2- How is the 240cm sideways 40 degree over hanging project of yours going Neil? Sounds super interesting, would love to see some footage or pics of it.
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So worlds hardest! Ive seen one called Golden Gate at Silvapark, weighs in at 8b. Not sure if its a straight out dyno or a few moves, anybody seen it or has pics?
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Golden Gate
(http://www.8a.nu/images/gallery/22389_633613202622821250.jpg)
(http://www.8a.nu/images/gallery/16139_633591887777750000.jpg)
silvretta-bouldern.avi (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPmTt-6r8S4#)
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I'm guessing 8A+/8B is as hard as dynos currently go.
In the UK, Caterpult, Walk Away, some jumps in Wales?
Though if sitstart dynos get a look-in (they probably shouldn't), this looks tough:
Feed The Need 8a+ (http://vimeo.com/25681491)
Just had a quick google, and there are a couple of V12 dynos in the states.
Belly Flop - http://www.myuctv.com/video?id=687 (http://www.myuctv.com/video?id=687)
The Flying Dutchman - http://climbidaho.com/?p=189 (http://climbidaho.com/?p=189)
(http://climbidaho.com/images/IMG_1315.JPG)
(http://climbidaho.com/images/IMG_1313.JPG)
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Well that was what I was thinking, do they stop around 8a+/8b? This flying dutchman thing looks crazy! As I thought that Golden Gate is a problem with a dyno in it, the description I read just said dyno. Walk Away, is this in the lakes? Again Ive never seen this, need to get out a bit more I think! Thanks for putting up these vid links r-man.
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Walk Away is the Gaskins special at Fairy Steps, tiny holds on a vertical wall. Both repeaters used a dyno, rather than the high step done on the FA.
(http://lakesbloc.com/images/stories/news2009/walk-away.jpg)
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Shoot! And that gets 8b! Holds must be non existent! Interesting to see, its defiantly not your average looking dyno!
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Mr Tickle Extension 8a+ (FA) (http://vimeo.com/8038984)
This is still un-repeated :whistle:
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Mr Tickle Extension 8a+ (FA) (http://vimeo.com/8038984)
This is still un-repeated :whistle:
I see the spotter was ready...
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looks like a sweet dyno Will. Have you not tried black rocks or wimberry since your CUFA ascent?
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The dyno on its own took me ages and the extension was a very long term project, Malc repeated the dyno and found it hard, he tried the extension a little as well but didn't do it, although I'm sure he would have if he'd really wanted to.
I've had a session on the Black Rocks project and didn't do too well, I've been very close to the Wimbery one though, I had a session a few weeks ago but it was cut short when I ripped my hands to bits on it.
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Really! Solid effort, I think sticking the finish will be tough at wimberry, is it sharp th finish? There is a dyno at guisecliffe that Im pretty sure hasn't had a second ascent! Clutch, its next to sprite, don't think its 8a+ hard tho! Get back to the tank and get that done if your close, hope it goes for ya, that would be a nice one to do!
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Dave Gater, Clutch, Guisecliff, first ascent on Vimeo (http://www.vimeo.com/24429206) ;D
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This looks quite big/hard...
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8016/6979757390_b03da66948_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25829040@N04/6979757390/)
Dave on the FA of Big Kicks Direct (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25829040@N04/6979757390/#) by nic mullin (http://www.flickr.com/people/25829040@N04/), on Flickr
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That guy so needs to have a son called Ali.
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He's got a daughter called Alison! Will that do? Big Kicks Direct is around 215/220cm I think, so it might get on GCW's list, not 8c though! Maybe 7bish?
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He's got a daughter called Alison! Will that do?
That'll do nicely!
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Quality picture Nic. 7B my arse.