UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: slim on November 29, 2006, 12:31:59 pm
-
in an effort to become a more rounded and better individual im trying to do some of those harder low(er) grade routes
you know they ones, get e1 in the guide, but you've done e6's that were loads easier!
yes i know its a really bad idea, but im a fool for punishment and haven't got the head yet this season to push.
criteria, grade e1-e3
must be safe
must be peak grit (im just too lazy to go far and its grit season)
i should get some perverse pleasure from fighting my ass up it
if anyone has some suggestions would be keen to hear them.
-
Saville Street - Millstone
Right Eliminate, Scroach - Curbar
Mental Pygmys - Black Rocks
Improbability Drive - Stanage
Tom Thumb - Cratcliff
-
the asp at Stanage always looked like it'd be a good honest fight for the grade
-
and the vice is just awfully painful for hard very tedious
-
A few that come to mind:
Gates of Mordor - If you've got normal sized hands.
Deadbay Groove Direct - one for a dry spell though.
Guillotine - well, I think it's tricky.
Tippler Direct.
Rasp Direct - if it isn't E4 now.
Requiem.
Emerald Crack - especially if you're short.
Sleeping Sickness - especially if you're unfit.
-
Sentinel Crack at Chatsworth
Vaya Con Dios at Gardom's
-
My contribution would be
Done years ago, curbar
Lepton, curbar,
rat scabies, curbar
days of future passed, roaches lower
Satin, stanage
Ontos, bamford
nicotine stain burbage n
the bogart burbage south
easy pickings rivelin
-
Hongkongstuey, The Asp is more balancy than fighty, but really good.
I'd say:
Masachism, Undertaker and Imposition @ Ramshaw
Emerald Crack @ Chatsworth is a belter
Crack of Gloom @ Roaches Lower Tier, amazing! also Matinee.
Delstree, Corinthian and Hen Cloud Eliminate (Caesarian E4) @ Hen Cloud
Fern Hill and Tom Thumb @ Cratcliffe
The Rasp Direct is E4 I think now but a real grunt and sticks in my mind.
Hope that helps and would certainly make for a good start to the season for you.
Andi
-
Oh yeah, Insanity and Scroach @ Curbar too
-
Oh, and also The Logic Book (E2) and King Kong (E3) at High Neb. The first is desperate if you're short, and the second is just desperate.
Cue avalanche of strong dwarves all shouting "I've done both of them and they're piss" :wall:
-
its actually quite satisfying the number of those suggested I have climbed,
an i thought i was a one dimensional slab climber.... :whistle:
still some good suggestions to have a crack at!
-
Undercut Crack and Ontos - Bamford
Harvest, Nectar pt1, Orang-utan, Lamia - Marble Wall, Stanage. Now that would be a good day out!
-
My contribution would be
Done years ago, curbar
Lepton, curbar,
rat scabies, curbar
days of future passed, roaches lower
Satin, stanage
Ontos, bamford
nicotine stain burbage n
the bogart burbage south
easy pickings rivelin
You are taking the piss here non?
-
What's wrong with pitch 2 of Nectar? It'll be starting to feel neglected poor thing...
-
Nowt, but it bumps the grade up to E4 and the man only asked for E1-E3s
-
What about Cave Crack, Froggatt? Seem to remember hearing some vile language last time I saw that led.
-
well if im going to do the first pitch I might as well go for the full tick!.... :read:
-
Centaur.
-
easy pickings rivelin
this is great but it didn't seem a hard as everyone makes out. i don't know if i just dropped on some good beta or what.
have seen a few people try that King Kong at high neb and everyone always seems to get bummed. anyones tried that hanging groove just right of Anniversary arete? that looks like it aught to be safe and a good fight?
-
Yeah, I got shut down on King Kong.
-
The Toy is quite short and savage. Although I may have just been having a bad day when I
did tried it.