UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on June 05, 2003, 11:30:35 am
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Going this weekend, what are the must do's
Obviously Fast Cars, Popcorn Party, Ysgo Crack, Shaking Man
Any others?
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jawbreaker
Brian spray
floppy's arete
the shelf
higginson scar
closer
unmarked grave
grapes of raf
tough dogs
made in heaven is supposed to be good but we never got round that far. basicaly anything that itsn't obviously shit will mostlikely be good. Enjoy.
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jawbreaker
Brian spray
floppy's arete
the shelf
higginson scar
closer
unmarked grave
grapes of raf
tough dogs
made in heaven is supposed to be good but we never got round that far. basicaly anything that itsn't obviously shit will mostlikely be good. Enjoy.
Cheers Dave, should keep me going for an afternoon
Is Angel Bay anywhere near? If so anyone got a topo for it? Is it worth going or should i spend all day at Ysgo?
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angel bay is on the little orme, i.e. easily at least 2 hours drive from ysgo. So i think the answer to your question is No!
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angel bay is on the little orme, i.e. easily at least 2 hours drive from ysgo. So i think the answer to your question is No!
Ha, that shows the extent of my Welsh bouldering knowledge! If its not in the Pass I havent got a clue... :?
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Adam, I take it you didnt get to Whitehouses last weekend, didnt see anyone up there or any cars parked?
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Adam, I take it you didnt get to Whitehouses last weekend, didnt see anyone up there or any cars parked?
No, twas to warm. Ended up in the Lakes!
Soon though, soon
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how do you boys know where all the probs are if you aint got no topo. am going down to da welsh for a stag party next weekend, where'd i get a topo?
pantonino, want to meet up?
Nic
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I got a topo that is a photocopy of one panton sent to cofe.
You can also recognise most of the problems from Stick It quite easily without a topo.
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Try Climber mag Oct 2002 for a mini topo of ysgo.
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I would love to go down to P Ysgo, but I'm still chained to my computer trying to finish the guide.
I have sent Adam the text files, but I can't really send the page files because they are big and there is quite a lot of them.
If you want the text let me know. I reckon you would suss the place very easily even without the full guide information. Like Dave says, its all pretty obvious really.
The current Lleyn guide has got access details and a brief write up similar to the Climber article mentioned.
Have fun.
PS The guide will be out mid July.
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Simon, Richard Simpson did Trigger Cut and Manchester Dogs yesterday, 4th and 5th ascents i think.
don't work to hard!
chris
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Went down Porth Ysgo on Sunday. What a place. Landing, like people say are pretty bad!
Quite hard to find stuff too, but might just have been me being crap though
Few comments for guide though.
Popcorn Party with the way the boulders are underneath it now, make it tricky to start. Maybe worth V7?
Incedible shaking man sit start would be harsh at V7 but more suited to V8?
Great place and well worth a return visit!
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Simon, Richard Simpson did Trigger Cut and Manchester Dogs yesterday, 4th and 5th ascents i think.
don't work to hard!
chris
Jamie Cassidy has done Manchester Dogs too
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Should have some photos and good video clips within the week aswell.
Do you want any clips for the site? Got TISM Sit Start, standup, Truth, Popcorn Party and Fast cars...
What specs do you need them in?
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Shock Horror: grades in N Wales are actually quite hard after all!
TISM sds was V8 for a while, but I did suss a neat foot placement trick in between the first and second move recently that I missed when I did the first ascent. (Mind you, I reckon it is probably V9 if you have got short arms!)
I think the V7 grade is a reflection of the general standard of other V7s. Most of the V8s on the list now are brick hard. (Try Chocolate Wall on the Marine Drive for an example of what I mean.)
Anyway, perfect rock and a cracking problem.
Popcorn Party is a wierd one. When Higg first did it he said V8, but lots of people found it okay. (In Stick-It Nick Sellars flashes it nonchalently). It is quite sequency, with some very specific finger positions; was it chalked up when you did it?
It did settle as V6 for the full low start under the small roof, unfortunately as you say this is partially obscured by boulders now. V5 has been suggested for the current set up. I guess we just need a big storm or a team of navvies to move the rocks about again.
Glad you enjoyed yourself.
Cheers, Simon.
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Shock Horror: grades in N Wales are actually quite hard after all!
Hmmm ...
The Irish boys said North Wales grades are soft.
My experience of Irish grades is that they are soft (incidentally very much contrary to my expectation!)
Therefore I can only assume North Wales grades are extremely soft!
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Do you want any clips for the site? Got TISM Sit Start, standup, Truth, Popcorn Party and Fast cars...
What specs do you need them in?
Yeah please, that'd be sound - as uncompressed and big as possible - not too worried about format coz I can deal with most. Could you burn them to cd?
Cheers :D
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YG: Yawn.
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Shock Horror: grades in N Wales are actually quite hard after all!
TISM sds was V8 for a while, but I did suss a neat foot placement trick in between the first and second move recently that I missed when I did the first ascent. (Mind you, I reckon it is probably V9 if you have got short arms!)
I think the V7 grade is a reflection of the general standard of other V7s. Most of the V8s on the list now are brick hard. (Try Chocolate Wall on the Marine Drive for an example of what I mean.)
Anyway, perfect rock and a cracking problem.
Popcorn Party is a wierd one. When Higg first did it he said V8, but lots of people found it okay. (In Stick-It Nick Sellars flashes it nonchalently). It is quite sequency, with some very specific finger positions; was it chalked up when you did it?
It did settle as V6 for the full low start under the small roof, unfortunately as you say this is partially obscured by boulders now. V5 has been suggested for the current set up. I guess we just need a big storm or a team of navvies to move the rocks about again.
Glad you enjoyed yourself.
Cheers, Simon.
I suppose, if iam being honest i knew that TISM sit was V7, i did it 2nd go, and the footholds where wet. Oh well...:-)
Popcorn party - With all respect Simon, Nic flashing it doesnt mean its not hard! ;-) I would go with V6 if the boulders shift abit. But in current state start is slappy.
Anyway, grades smaeds, who cares, top place and well worth a visit(or two!)
Cheers
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Do you want any clips for the site? Got TISM Sit Start, standup, Truth, Popcorn Party and Fast cars...
What specs do you need them in?
Yeah please, that'd be sound - as uncompressed and big as possible - not too worried about format coz I can deal with most. Could you burn them to cd?
Cheers :D
Ok, cool, might be a week or so as havent got a firewire card for pc yet. Only trouble with the clips is they are a bit over exposed, too much white noise i think. Was my first day out with camcorder!
Photos should be cool though
Cheers
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Ok, cheers - see how they turn out and give us a shout if you reckon they're good enough....
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Ok, cheers - see how they turn out and give us a shout if you reckon they're good enough....
If those fail, ill be going out with the boys to get some qualidy footage