UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Will Hunt on November 05, 2006, 07:29:01 pm
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Was watching Stone Monkey and, being a mildly attentive sort, noticed that the climb gets "E8" but is fully bolted. What gives? Are the bolts "creaky" or are my eyes decieving me and it was all pre placed gear?
Oh yeah. Johnny Dawes, no matter how good he is, seemed a bit up his arse as well. Thoughts from those who have met him?
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I believe a lot of the slate routes got trad grades because they tended to be rather run-out, and slate is rather friable, so the bolts (or more accurately the rock they are lodged in) may have a tendency to give way when loaded.
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Tut-tut William. Where are your manners?
The bolt question is a no brainer. Look at the date of ascent. Climbing has changed enormously since those routes were climbed and you would do well to brush-up on your history.
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Like the man says, all sport routes were given E grades in the UK at the time
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Oooohhhhhh. I thought I was reasonably good on my history and all. Got proven wrong yesterday though. I never knew that Pex's vitalite constallation had a name or that Pisa Wall had AID routes of all things on it. Dont know when the pegs were put in but a few remain as well as some in situ gear in the top break of Dateline. People sure were pussies a while back when they peggeda 6m wall.
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I can't see aiding at pex being an end in itself, im sure they just wanted to practice aid at a local venue, worked out for the moutainneers who 'practiced' in font!