UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Monolith on November 04, 2006, 02:54:06 pm
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Not sure how to link directly to 8a.nu shop page, but has anyone got or flicked through a copy of the book One Move Too Many?
"One move too many
Dr. med. Thomas Hochholzer, Dr. med. Volker Schöffel, Lochner verlag
This book, written by two German physician-climbers, is THE most comprehensive guide to preventing, diagnosing, and treating climbing overuse injuries and syndromes.
Features: Aiming to empower climbers rather than disturb them, this book explains the nature and treatment of the bodily afflictions in order to provide insight. Covering areas like stretching, taping, nutrition, and traumatic injuries, this must-have climber's manual can help prevent injury and assist in situations where prevention was not possible."
Sounds promising?
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remember hearing saltbeef mention this book a year or so ago, sounded promising then as well.
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have a copy but haven't read all of it...
one of those things that scares you a bit when you read all the things that could go wrong...
got a really go section on stretching... that I have read.
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I've got it, and also met Volker Schoeffl in the Tarn a few weeks back. Nice guy, also did the first ascent of Silberne Sterne which is that 8b with a mono that there is often a piccy of Rich doing on the main page of the Moon site. Anyway.
The book is good I think. Volker has done more research into climbing injuries than perhaps any other doctor, and really knows his stuff. The book contains good advice on more esoteric climbing injuries, such as forearm compartment syndrome, aswell as on the more common stuff like A2 pulley injuries. However, the one thing I would point out about the main reason climbers need injury advice (finger injuries) is this: If something has snapped completely, you need a surgeon to stick it back together. If it hasn't you need to rest it a bit and then rehab it by gentle exercise to get the blood going, and perhaps support with tape (the book suggests taping is good and shows some common tape methods: nothing new really). How long you rest, and how long you rehab depends on the severity of the injury. Ice may help. But apart from that there's nothing else. Your mate can tell you this, or you can pay £30 to read it and have it backed up by studies, but there's no miracle cure, and nothing that people are keeping secret.
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I think I'm most drawn by the nutrition section. I'd like to see if it's an improvement on other offerings in the field really. What do we make of this particular aspect of the book?
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This book has some fabulous gore! Buy it!
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Yeah it's a good book but with an expensive price tag of 25 pund! But hey, can you put a price on help recovering from an injury!?
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8a.nu doesnt seem to accept my info on the purchase form :'(. anywhere else got it for sale??
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Rupert speaks the truth.
think they had it in cragx or planetferar last time i was in them doc.
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Ta,
will try to but asap ;D
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They have a copy at CragX
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pickin up a cpoy today....
thanks!
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got it.
from planetfear shop.
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Anyone finished with their copy and want to give it a new home? Willing to pay reasonable price + postage!
Cheers
Anna