UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Bonjoy on October 06, 2006, 04:53:32 pm
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A couple of weeks ago I added a bunch of new problems to Gardoms middle/south, a mini circuit if you will. I have some pictures at home and will post up when I get a chance.
The problems are generally borderline highball, but none too scary with a couple of pads and a spot. Gardoms south/Moorside has always been a bit of a limited circuit for the length of walk in. This new area would combine well to make a fairly chunky session. Business as Usual and Double Bum are also passed along the way and could be added.
All the new probs bar one are on Capillary Crack Butress, the next buttress left of Grooved Wall (the one with Waterloo Sunset on), approx 100m left of the Apple Buttress area.
Don't hold me too accountable for the starring, it's mostly their to give a vague idea of their comparative merits and hopefully to goad people into making the extra walk. Suffice to say I think they are worthwhile problems.
From left to right:
* Chav's Head 6a+ - The nose-like arete/prow on the far left of the buttress, from a sit start. Reach round the chin, share the nose, get the sloping brow and slap for the baseball cap.
*** A Fearful Orange 6c+ - Starting on a perfect triangular sloper in the open groove to the right, gain and climb the highball dogleg crack, lurching left at the top for a tiny groove (the top bit is a neglected John Allen E1 6a called Squeeze Your Lemon).
* Fearful Head 6c+ - The start of AFO traversing into the end of CH at the undercuts.
** Neutral Milk Hotel 6a - The lovely highball arete behind the oak tree climbed on it's LHS. May have been done years ago, I remember seeing it cleaned and climbing it a fair few years ago.
** Two Headed Boy 6c - The arete up it's RHS to the shelf which is then traversed right to it's end then rockup via a undercut fingerlock.
* Ladder Coins 6b - Up the hill at the right side of the buttress, right of a small birch tree. Up the wall to a ledge via sloping crimps. Just left of a groove. Can be done direct or with a LH finish which is easier but not as good.
The last prob is on the big block just below Charlotte Rampling on Pillar buttress (the most southerly buttress on the main edge):
*** English Voodoo 7a - The overhanging arete/prow, with great moves on a pocket, an exceptionally tasty pinch and some layaways
Obviously i'm keen to hear any feedback if anyone does take a look.
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me and the slopefield did the chav's head thing and can confirm its well brown.
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Was there again today and with nice conditions things felt a fair bit less hard. So much so I've changed the grades on the original post.
Also added a sit start to English Voodoo at 7b.
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Some pics from a couple of weeks back.
(http://static.flickr.com/92/263182734_e3f716e477.jpg)
Dan Ogden on A Fearful Orange
(http://static.flickr.com/92/263182736_5d97575bfe.jpg)
Steff on Two Headed Boy
(http://static.flickr.com/98/263182737_ace168e55c.jpg)
Cofe on Two headed Boy
(http://static.flickr.com/105/263182740_a62a7dba10.jpg)
Dan on Two Headed Boy
(http://static.flickr.com/100/263182733_3ae020f349.jpg)
Rhys on Chav’s Head
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Also added a sit start to English Voodoo at 7b.
nice work.
P.S. was reading the chatsworth guide last week, I didn't realise the charlotte rampling doesn't even climb the ramp feature, but instead takes the wall to the L of it. Now theres an outstanding line waiting for someone.
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Oggers let you get no less than 3 photos with him in?? Blimey he is getting socialble!
Looks good in the shots...
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hate myself for saying it but these new probs are actually very good, indeed one of the party was declaring the crack as one of the best probs he'd ever done on grit. all this while i was trying to be sick in the woods. alcohol is evil
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To be fair, 'one of the party' has never been to the mighty Hobson Moor have they. They are very good problems though, English Voodoo was like a better version of Excalibur at Cuisiniere. You going back next weekend to redpoint being sick in the woods? :alky:
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That Fearful Orange is ringing some bells, can't find squeeze your lemon in the guide though? Me n The RingSting did some stuff here in the vintage seasons of 98/99 and 99/00, be worth me trying to remember what. Never recorded anything as there was obviously someone else on with the same game at the time... landings n chalk would change between visits. Due to their patio building skills in one spot we presumed it was Jerry.
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Me and Kim did what i've called Neutral Milk Hotel (in the modern guidebook tradition of retronaming unclaimed lines) back in the day possibly around that time, but it was brushed and looked to have been done by others before that. I remember a line up the wall 5m right on slots being cleaned around then too, but this is still unclimbed, not exceptionally inspiring but still there if anyone is looking for that sort of thing.
The landing under AFO (the first moves where not accessible without moving a big rock), THB (very gnarly large spike which I leveled by building up around it) and EV took some heavy lifting and patioation to sort, which is why they never got done before I'd guess. I dare say Chav's Head and Ladder Coins may have been done in the past.
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Still can't find it in the guide - when you say 100m left of Apple buttress are you being the crow acawing atop undertakers buttress or the ant toiling up (not down!) in search of a cider apple?
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Definately the crow. Squeeze Your Lemon is in the yellow Chatsworth guide, left of Jumping Jack Flash and Capillary Crack. The whole buttress is off the Rockfax radar (obviously).
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Some more Gardom's action from Rob Smith. This time on the Business as Usual block. This is the overhanging quarried block 300m right (SE) of Apple Buttress.
Dirty Business 6b+ - OHing left arete on it's steep RH side.
The left arete was climbed on its right from a sit down by me all the way to the top at about a bold font 6b+ although this may be totally wrong as felt hard because of green slime, how about "dirty business" for a name. The left hand side of the arete was climbed as a stand up, and goes all the way to the top on the left side but not sure which memeber of the team did it first. Not sure if I should name it, possibly Jamie who did it first.
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I remember a line up the wall 5m right on slots being cleaned around then too, but this is still unclimbed, not exceptionally inspiring but still there if anyone is looking for that sort of thing.
What would that be then? I seem to remember a wall by that description but it's all very hazy... Has it not been climbing because it's hard or because it really is shit like you say? Where exactly is this wall? I only have the chatsworth guide and the bouldering guide to go by... thanks
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if bonjoy says its not inspiring then its gotta be utter dog shit
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You fool! You're the ant! There I was thinking my guide had a page missing... will need a site visit to check, the thing we did was pretty good and will be worthy of inclusion on this circuit.
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if bonjoy says its not inspiring then its gotta be utter dog shit
Look if you're refering to The Bi-curious Cormorant, it was only a joke problem. Care to name any other prob i've ever done that's log?
Uncle - It's the wall left of Jumping Jack, slots are narrow and overhung so you can't crimp. Prossibly only 7b+/7c but above a slanted rock. If the landing was good it might be a good prob.
JB - Oh yes I am the ant aren't I :-[. My appleogies
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Neutral Milk Hotel is one of the albums I was going to give you Johnny - its amazing.
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In The Aeroplane Over The Sea? It's king of my collection at the mo.
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Just got Hot Chip's first, ta! Look forward to more....
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if bonjoy says its not inspiring then its gotta be utter dog shit
Look if you're refering to The Bi-curious Cormorant, it was only a joke problem. Care to name any other prob i've ever done that's log?
don't worry, I'm only jealous cos you beat me to the 1st ascent
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Both sides of English Voodoo
(http://static.flickr.com/115/267750658_06237a8a7d.jpg)
LHS
(http://static.flickr.com/111/267750657_c96c4e193c.jpg)
RHS
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thats does look good. Dense & enigma went down today, will await report.
Will be having a look next week when not working
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REPORT:
"Well informed no doubt" (Somebody's Fool, 2006)
It was too fucking wet, so we didn't go.
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From a couple of weeks back. A couple more new things by Rob Smith and Jamie Lilleman
The left arete [of Business As Usual] was climbed on its right from a sit down by me all the way to the top at about a bold font 6b+ although this may be totally wrong as felt hard because of green slime, how about "Dirty Business" for a name. The left hand side of the arete was climbed as a stand up, and goes all the way to the top on the left side but not sure which memeber of the team did it first. Not sure if I should name it, possibly Jamie who did it first.
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Did Dirty Business and the one up the LH side today. Both really good we thought, especially DB and not at all dirty! The LH one seemed about 6b/6b+.
Somebody's Fool added another new one on the butress right of the one with Spanish Fly and Vaya Con Dios on it. Roof and rib 6a-ish with right arete and 6c-ish straight up the rib without arete. Good warm ups for Pogles/Perfect day. Have a video I might stick up on Youtube, if I get chance.
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Vid of SFs new 6c ish prob mentioned earlier
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPg6zqzMtKY (I amazed how much image quality is lost uploading to YouTube!)
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As long as the quality of the fare on show doesn't suffer. That's the main thing.
I'm thinking of calling this Bloc Steno, which is French for shorthand notebook. If you didn't already know. ::)
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Looks pretty neat.
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These all look really good. Will try and get out there soon. Any chance of a basic topo? I'm losing track of what goes where. Pretty please?
___
(I amazed how much image quality is lost uploading to YouTube!)
Have you checked out http://www.snapdrive.net - you can upload up to 2GB for free, with max file size of 100mb. Handy for movies. They can't be viewed online, and have to be downloaded, but that's not such a bad thing.
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I'll try them next time, cheers r.
Will scribble down a basic topo and scan it in later if i get a chance
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Oh dear, I have done all of these, thought them to be John Allen outings!
the overhanging sloper problem is named Solomon, after my godson.
looking at the shots, I think all three are the ones i have climbed, but would be suprised if they had not been climbed before...
There is also a great direct to a Nigel Prestige E4, do not know the name but if you find an isolated tower with a series of side pulls on a bowed wall, i have done the dyno at E-7A, needs a sitter.
I spent a lot of time at this crag...
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As I said already this one...
(http://static.flickr.com/92/263182734_e3f716e477.jpg)
... is a low start to a John Allen micro route Squeeze Your Lemon. Are you saying you did this already?
I also said that Neutral Milk Hotel was done years ago by various people including me. I gave it a name because nobody else had and it's good enough to deserve one.
What do you mean by the overhanging sloper one, this doesn't sound like anything I did?
Two Headed Boy had a lot of thick lichen on the slopey ledge and a big pointed rock beneath the crux rockover. To my knowledge the ledge has never been cleaned in the 15 years I have been visiting Gardom's. I admire your balls doing that move on thick filth above that landing (have moved rocks to improve now)!
What dyno do you mean?
r-man heres a rough location map
(http://static.flickr.com/112/297211812_9a1e3cbe75.jpg)
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Excellent, cheers! Looking forward to having a good day out here.
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Here's a better shot of Fearful Orange
(http://static.flickr.com/101/297231124_8b5f072c99.jpg)
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The problem to the left of this is Soloman. did this one pictured, and very nearly did the roof to the right! this is not a spray, just happy to see others enjoying Retro problems, (Soloman needed hard cleaning before my ascent)
I feel like a martyr
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The one to the left is this
(http://static.flickr.com/100/263182733_3ae020f349.jpg) I called Chav's Head, english 6a/6b Font 6b?
Or did you do a harder one going up to the sloper on the RH side of the arete? This looked possible but harder.
The thing with the one pictured is that there was a v large quarried block resting against the groove, up to roughly where his chalkbag is making the low start from the triangular sloper inaccessible/impossible until I moved this. You must have done the standard John Allen version starting on the big undercuts above his head, which is now the top half of a great prob.
The roof to the right looks desperate and now has a awkward block under it.
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This sort of illustrates one of the problems with retro claiming. Someone retro claims something based on a sketchy memory. On this rare occasion the circumstances mean this is proved mistaken. If the circumstances hadn't been thus (i.e. if the boulder had not been in the way), it would have to be presumed that said someone had done the FA even though he would still be just as mistaken. Maybe it's better to be sure of what you've done before retrospectively claiming something, or not to bother if unsure?
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bonjoy surprised us all again on sunday with yet another good problem. double bump indeed
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Oi Jarhead. I believe it's called Double Bum.
Your 'no matching' antics were a sight to behold. :bow:
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like the shirt says "watching makes you weak" ;)
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It was dry on Sunday? Gardoms North was wet so we retreated to Burbage.
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dry as the proverbial bone
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Not quite true. There was a bit of seepage out of Double Bum. ;)
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Some details in case anyone's interested:
Double Bum - 7a - On the inset quarried bay containing Master of Thought in the Apple Buttress area, right of the route/highball called Cider is a narrow recessed overhanging wall. Launch for the horizontal pinch and exit rightward via sloping ledge and jug. The crimpy highball direct finish is still to do. FA pre-2003?
Some old pics:
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/DB1.jpg)
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/Db2.jpg)
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/Db3.jpg)
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That looks great. It is officially on my 'to do' list.
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Was going to ask what Double Bum was. Looks really good. Shame G.North frightened us off on Sunday.
Some questions, so next time I try and persuade our group I'll be better able to deal with their scepticism:
-Do the edge problems often stay dry when G.North is damp?
-Looks like the best plan of attack might be to park at South and start at Fearful Orange (reasonable warm ups?) then work back along the edge to the car? (Maybe come back for the other bits another day.)
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Gardom's North is often last to dry so if it's a bit iffy you are better off starting at the other end (parked at the Robin Hood).
The Jackalope is very quick drying. Shame there isn't much else at Moorside. English Voodoo is quick drying. The Sauvitto area would be next to dry, then Fear Orange etc although NMH might have a wet streak.
The Fearful Orange area is mostly highball, so you might want to be warmed up before you go there. A good south end circuit might be to warm up at G-thang/Sauvitto, nip over and do Jackalope, then wander over to Fearful Orange area, then head back south to Double Bum (seeps after prolonged rain), then Dirty Business/Business as Usual and finish with English Voodoo. You'd have to move very fast to take in all the best probs on the whole crag in a day!
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Its good to see people keen on Double Bum, I saw it on an internet list a couple of years ago and hunted it down.
I'm fairly sure it was apeindex so maybe grimer (assuming the site and lectures were related) could shed some light on the fa?
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The FA was me, I just couldn't remember when off the top of my head. Checked diary and it was spring 2003
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Must have a chat with you on Wednesday evening. I've noticed all the evidence but was unaware of who it was chalking the stuff up.
J :)
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Yet more Gardom's activity. This time at the north end and the work of Mr Harris. The as yet unnamed roof is at the upper northernmost end of the boulders behind A Tasty Graunch etc. Very much in the G North syle involving crimps and heel-toes to reach slopers round the lip, then a slopey rockover/mantle finish. The landing is not ideal but nothing a couple of pads and a spot won't sort out. Quick repeats from Roy and me confirmed the grade at 7a+.
(http://static.flickr.com/122/312213553_6d544a7693.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/113/312213555_38a3be1a00.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/108/312213557_9dfe05ef5d.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/120/312213561_d56030e047.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/103/312213565_fe62c0ff50.jpg)
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Finally checked out some of the Gardoms highballs. Did the Fearful Orange problems - thought they were all excellent, tricky starts followed by exciting finishes on good holds. Only had one spotter and two thin mats, more would have been nice, but it added to the experience. Will be back to seek out Double Bum and English Voodoo.
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Finally plumped for a name.
"Joint Care"
Watch those knees guys. And the petfood aisle at your local supermercado!
Andy
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some great problems down here.
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Seconded. English voodoo and fearful orange are top drawer.
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puts in context how good these probs are when you consider that most of gardoms north stuff is dogshit.
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I too would like to take this opportunity to offer my wholehearted endorsement of the aforementioned problems.
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I too would like to take this opportunity to offer my wholehearted endorsement of the aforementioned problems.
Better hurry then, before you miss the moment...
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I only said that i would like to, not that i was going to. ;)
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Played at Gardoms today, mostly backing off from things since we only had one mat. Conditions not great, though monkey boy stilled squeezed up Pogles Wood sitter - I couldn't even do the standup. Gritstone Treaty looks amazing, though we didn't dare try it with only one mat.
Went searching for Double Bum, but didn't recognise it in the dusk (thought it was a non-problem despite looking at it twice). Found this though, an overhanging wall a little further right. Is this Dirty business? French start to a jug (low start probably hard), big move to pocket in break, then a combination of ramp and left arete and a high step to top out on easy angled slab, heart beating. Not hard, but dark and damp patches made it very exciting. From re-reading thread, this sounds like possibly the DB block, though this seemed the obvious line and I didn't use the arete till later.
I question ye.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/126/394678544_ca9bf5bec7.jpg?v=0)
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That block is is the home of Dirty Business and Business As Usual. DB climbs the left arete from sitter, all the way on it's RHS (the LHS can also be climbed, it's slightly easier). BAU climbs the middle without either arete, jump start as mentioned.
I imagine DB would have had heavy seepage yesterday anyway.
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Ta. Quel grade? Felt 6bish, but scary. Good problem.
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DB was given 6b+ by Rob, BAU was originally graded E5 6b and led with a cam in the break. Not sure what grade i'd give it F6C+/V5 maybe, but it's a while since I did it.
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Brilliant, E5! :dance1:
Is the arete really straightforward when it's in condition? Looked trickier than BAU. Doubt BAU is 6c+ - it's just jug pulling, with a slightly awkward top. Even 6c feels a bit much, but hey, probably best to overgrade highballs I suppose. Safer anyway.
Been using this topo to navigate around all the new stuff. Just a copy and paste job from this thread, plus I've added a few directions. Maybe other folk will find it useful...
http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/Gardoms%20Circuit2.pdf
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BAU climbs the middle without either arete
As the man said, for your E5 tick the aretes are out. I should know, I've backed off the fucker three times in the last year. Oh to be as reckless as a pissed up Tetler...
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Yes, the direct topout is not trivial.
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Damn. Bloody Eliminates.
Have amended topo.
Disapointed now. Crushed, even.
Ah well. Maybe I should go back and climb the bottom of DB into the top of BAU. Grumble grumble.
Can I have an E-grade for the left arete? I feel like I deserve something for all that fear...
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Hell no. As the man said, 6b+.
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Thought as much. ;D
I do think the direct is very eliminate though - I had my left hand on the arete, and right on the top of the ramp for the final move - ignoring the arete just seemed like a duff sequence!
In fact, as DB was climbed after BAU, isn't BAU just the obvious line up the block, and DB the eliminate? The problem I'm having is that I climbed the line of least resistance, and it was good fun. Both routes as described may have good climbing, but are a little contrived, which seems a shame, when the obvious way up is so worthwhile. Maybe you feel differently, but sans guide, I did what seemed like the obvious challenge.
Anyway, I'm claiming D5 for the atmospheric darkness, where D10 is pitch black, and D11 is blacker still. Obviously, if you fell of a D10, you'd probably land on your head and die, erased by the night... whereas if you fell off a D11, you'd just keep on falling, deeper and deeper into the obsidian oblivion...
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Effort with the topo robin. Another one you could add is the left arete of Bin Laden's block, done a few weeks back by Jamie Lilleman 7a+ I think he said, harder than BLC.
Straight up sans arete seemed the obvious way to me on BAU. It didn't feel contrived. The way it climbs (left foot on ramp) means the left arete is out of easy reach. I dare say using the left arete might not have been an option when I did BAU as it had yet to be cleaned for use on DB.
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I did try direct to begin with, as it looks the obvious way from the ground. It's not the easiest way though, and to me the challenge was to get to the top. But hey.
Updated topo - Bin Laden's left arete included.
http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/Gardoms%20Circuit3.pdf
How about making a sticky for miscellaneous topos? Stuff like this, the Tube, a link to that matlock one, and whatever else? (Actually maybe this is just peak topos in search of a home.)
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It's not the easiest way though, and to me the challenge was to get to the top.
There's an easy way up round the back. You've a very purist attitude for a Brownstones afficionado ;)
Might be an idea to put links to topos in the descriptions on Bouldr. Or you could create a thread and gather all the relevant bits together and i'll make it a sticky in Beta.
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Are you allowed to handjam between the tree on Bin Laden's Cave LA?
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Have never actually been to BLC. Jamie did mention that a tree growing on the rock spoilled the aesthetics somewhat, but it still climbs nice.
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It's not the easiest way though, and to me the challenge was to get to the top.
There's an easy way up round the back. You've a very purist attitude for a Brownstone's afficionado ;)
Fear makes me see things differently. I find it hard to commit to the joy of the move when my bouldering mat looks like a beer mat, and my spotters look like smurfs. ;)
I'm not saying the lines people have claimed are bad, just that it seems odd the easiest way up is regarded as eliminate. Anyway, enough quibbling about this.
___
p.s. Beer and Smurfs. Dangerous combination. Smurfs can't swim.
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Pogle's Wood sitter definately felt 7b+ to me but maybe it was just the conditions, all slopey holds and very greasy. Good little problem though enjoyed losing some skin on it. :lol:
Anyone else find it hard?
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What's it given 7b? It was good nick when I did it and it felt hard but probably still 7b. I can imagine that pinch was hard to use yesterday. Great problem! It seemed a grade harder than Perfect Day Direct (even without the jump start) which seems more like easy 7a+ than 7b to me.
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Anyway, enough quibbling about this.
Can I just add this so aspirant ascensionists aren't put off trying an excellent highball because of it's 'eliminate' nature.
As the man said, I don't think it is eliminate. As I said earlier in the thread I have been up there three times now. The logical line (IMHO) leads you rightwards up the ramp. From this position it doesn't seem possible, let alone easier, to go to the left arete. The top mantle certainly feels like the crux.
Hopefully I'll bag it next time I'm there.
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What's it given 7b? It was good nick when I did it and it felt hard but probably still 7b. I can imagine that pinch was hard to use yesterday. Great problem! It seemed a grade harder than Perfect Day Direct (even without the jump start) which seems more like easy 7a+ than 7b to me.
Yeh 7b so not much difference between the grade really. Like you said great little problem, will definately be going back to Gardoms to do all the other stuff. The one pad only restricted us slightly.
Good work on making up of a quality circuit!
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Can I just add this so aspirant ascensionists aren't put off trying an excellent highball because of it's 'eliminate' nature.
I'm sure it's enoyable whichever way you do it - Dynamic moves on good holds, to a classic highball finish, all with a perfectly flat landing. The direct way is obviously scarier, but I certainly wouldn't want to put people off, because it's a fine problem either way. I can see the appeal of added spice with the direct finish, but the left finish is good too.
As the man said, I don't think it is eliminate. As I said earlier in the thread I have been up there three times now. The logical line (IMHO) leads you rightwards up the ramp. From this position it doesn't seem possible, let alone easier, to go to the left arete. The top mantle certainly feels like the crux.
It's not the easiest way up, hence it's an eliminate! I'm not saying the direct finish is rubbish, just that there's an easier way to finish, and that the easier way is very enjoyable.
True, if you follow the ramp to its end, the arete looks a long way away, but from the bottom of the ramp you can reach the arete. I slapped into it, then slapped again to get the good bit, then moved my right hand to the top of the ramp to get my foot up. Whatever the finish, it's a good problem.
Perhaps this discussion will arouse people's curiousity - BAU wasn't previously described in this thread, so perhaps it will see a bit more attention. It's certainly worthwhile.
Maybe the line I took needs a new name. A combination of the two seems fitting. Business as Business. This will avoid confusion. :lol:
Hopefully I'll bag it next time I'm there.
Good luck! I'm sure I'll be back to have a look at the direct as well...
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I trust you'll be going back to bag the obvious Dirty As Usual linkup ;D
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r-man are you on drugs. you honestly thought you'd get e5 6b for what you did?
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Not really. Probably E1.
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Is reverse retro claiming a term of effect? posted a note earlier to say that the pillar in R mans pic is the Nigel Prestige-Mike Lea addition, which i put a low start on at E 7A... in 2000, after getting a taxi to the crag... did not name it.
a sitter could be arranged but to me, just locking the layaways is enough, then the dyno to the jug is ok. the smear for your rt foot is the key...
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I had a vague recollection that you had. Seem to remember you mentioning it and seeing it chalked and ting. I take it the left arete wasn't used? Pretty tough move!
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can you clear this up for me idol joy? what did you do exactly? the right arete or straight up?
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Uh? Idle Arse did a standing non-jump start to Business As Usual (climb centre using no aretes), whether this used the left arete as a start hold was the source of my query. Rob Smith did Dirty Business the left arete on it's RHS. Jamie big-fingers also did DB but on it's LHS. R-man climbed a hybrid of BAU and DB. That's it.
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so i still know nothing of note. did idol/you (idol) pull onto the straight up start using no aretes and then move to the jug? this would be very hard, circa one move 8a
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The layaway has three possible holds, the one I used is more of an side/under crimp, kind of the middle one rather than the highest one (nearest to the jug) crimp lft hand, lft foot in the on the large hold low down nr the Arete, smear rt foot v close to your rt hand, once you get used to that possition, the move is really wierd, you pull on, once tight againt the wall, launch lft foot away from the big hold, (your facing rt) you almost one arm the crimp whilst mid launch pulling hard on the layaway your foot pops from the smear at the same time as your rt hand leaves the layaway, you catch the jug facing Lft, long discription of what is a rather complex dyno.
Someone should try the double roof Underneath Waggy, wanted this to be the start to the route but found it to intimidating, also tryed the pocketed wall further lft, (possibly wall lft of English Voodoo)
Really missed the grit, back next year to witness the fitness
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Did Double Bum the other day. Maybe. Just watched Winter Sessions again and Bonjoy does it with a pop from the starting hold to the pinch. We crossed into the undercuts, which were chalked up, then went to pinch. Does anything go, or is this an eliminate? Any knowledge?
Checked out English Voodoo too. How on earth do you do the sitter? Stumped we were.
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We crossed into the undercuts, which were chalked up, then went to pinch.
that's how we did it. most logical way. still a good prob.
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never noticed any undercuts
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It's a juggy flake up and left of the starting hold, and it makes the problem alot easier.
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without undercuts, since am blind, the first move is one of the best ive done in years. think perfect day direct but easier and better
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the first move is one of the best ive done in years. think perfect day direct
So we know what kind of moves you like then. Extremely simple reaches reliant purely on strength! No my idea of quality, no wonder you like campusing
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Just to confirm Dirty Business does go all the way to the top on the right hand side of the arete i.e. its pretty highball. Just thought I'd confirm as some people have been finishing on the jugs where it gets a little high.
Thanks
Rob..
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the first move is one of the best ive done in years. think perfect day direct
So we know what kind of moves you like then. Extremely simple reaches reliant purely on strength! No my idea of quality, no wonder you like campusing
Perfect Day, if done properly, is actually a technical dyno. And good. Your main beef with it appeared to be the fact that what you had to catch was a lot smaller than the top of the Pebble, no wonder you like Deliverance.
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the first move is one of the best ive done in years. think perfect day direct
So we know what kind of moves you like then. Extremely simple reaches reliant purely on strength! No my idea of quality, no wonder you like campusing
Perfect Day, if done properly, is actually a technical dyno. And good. Your main beef with it appeared to be the fact that what you had to catch was a lot smaller than the top of the Pebble, no wonder you like Deliverance.
If done properly? I wasn't tall enough so I did this wonderful "technical dyno" that you speak of. But I guess for people an inch taller it is just a strength based lock.
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As opposed to a French start.
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I did DB without the flake as a deliberate eliminate because it´s a fun an obvious move. Also did it with flake on the same day but didn´t rate it as much and wouldn´t have mentioned it as a new prob at the time for the all-holds way. Wouldn´t normally give a name to an eliminate on grit, but really liked the move in this case.
As Sombody´s Fool says, there is no need to do Perfect Day direct as a french start, it is better and obviously a bit harder to do it from a pull on, it was my impression that Ru had graded it for the non-french way(??).
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perfect day direct isn't much difference french or non-french, certainly no change in grade. I assumed its graded for french start, this to me is the obvious way to do it - its a route start afterall.
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It's a route start but graded as a boulder problem, and one that's not in Bas Cuvier, i.e. pull on.
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The layaway has three possible holds, the one I used is more of an side/under crimp, kind of the middle one rather than the highest one (nearest to the jug) crimp lft hand, lft foot in the on the large hold low down nr the Arete, smear rt foot v close to your rt hand, once you get used to that possition, the move is really wierd, you pull on, once tight againt the wall, launch lft foot away from the big hold, (your facing rt) you almost one arm the crimp whilst mid launch pulling hard on the layaway your foot pops from the smear at the same time as your rt hand leaves the layaway, you catch the jug facing Lft, long discription of what is a rather complex dyno.
Someone should try the double roof Underneath Waggy, wanted this to be the start to the route but found it to intimidating, also tryed the pocketed wall further lft, (possibly wall lft of English Voodoo)
Really missed the grit, back next year to witness the fitness
Repeated this today (i.e. direct pull-on start to Business as Usual). Not like Pat describes above though (!!!!!), I bouled over with my left. Brilliant move, I would rate it about 7b+ for the whole kit and kaboodle including topping out direct, or maybe 7b just for the first move. Cofe and Kim repeated the move so they can pontificate on this also. There was an opinion at the crag that it was a first ascent as Pat hadn't toppped out or something (?), but as far as I can understand from what Pat has written he did it first so I won't give a name.
This circuit is excellent.
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Nige did Business as Usual without the jump start today, direct start, direct finish, no aretes, etc, etc. Quality problem. We found a tiny nubbin foothold for right foot, which was the key to doing the move to the jug. Left hand on crimp, right on undercut, right foot on nubbin, pull on, left foot onto obvious foothold, snatch for jug with left hand, match quickly to hold the swing. 7b+/c was muted, but as me and Cofe discovered topping out may still be the stopper for many.... Effort Nige.
Was the first time I'd been to Gardoms South since Bonjoy reported his findings, and it really is a quality circuit, enhanced by today's excellent weather, with the trees there taking the buffeting out of the wind!
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;D
How did you sneak that in?!
I must type slowly.
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He's a BEEEAAASSSSSSTTTTTTTTTTT. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riot_Act)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/climbing/NigeFlexitime_JC.jpg?t=1201466559)
a fine move. the top being a little difficult to justify with impending font trip/lack of testicles.
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the top being a little difficult to justify with impending font trip/lack of testicles.
Impending lack of testicles? Harsh. Are you going to be fitted with neuticles (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neuticles)?
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good effort nige but you really must widen your outfit repertoire.
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Course I fucking toped out, its a direct start to an old E4....
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By the way well done, Its fucking "ard". E 7A i thought!!!
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Added another problem to this mighty circuit on Saturday. Somewhat eliminate, but very logical and uncontrived as eliminates go. Basically it climbs Rob Smith's fine prob Dirty Business without the big edges out right on Business As Usual.
For quality of climbing it's one of the best new things i've done (assuming no retro-claimers pop up) and i'm going to stick my neck out and give it a name and grade - Plan D 7b+ from standing, 7c from sitting.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3128/2289121472_3b22f65c22_o.jpg)
Cheers to Cofe for the pic from a few weeks back. And cheers to Adam for the idea.
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Nice pic, but who is spotting you? Their arms look like twiglets! I assume it's an effect of the camera....
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Twiglet limbs Leyland (Kim)
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Effort word. As the grades seem rather lowly I assume there was some 'trick' beta found? Please share...
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kim's arms do actually look like twiglets.
nice one yooooot.
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From that position with left hand on chest height pinch, RF on edge near arete, RH on high pinch, LF heel hooking round corner - gingerly slide LF to good notch in arete, stand up without barndooring (thumbs doing a lot of work), adjust balance so RH takes most of weight as gaston pinch, crossover boule for break with LH. Very knacky.
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WOW! Sounds tricky. Technical aretes may not be my forte, but the time I've spent on this prob suggest it'll be mighty hard at 7b+. Pity the fool:
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/dribgard.jpg)
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If I'm honest I'd have to say it's probably 7c standing and harder 7c sitting, but the extra grade always encourages people to do the extra few moves which really add to the problem. It'd be good to get a second opinion on the numbers before it goes in the BMC book, assuming it's allowed in.
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I assume it's an effect of the camera....
Absolutely, Cofe's still learning. I actually have massive arms. :-[
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Sorry Kim, I meant massive muscly twiglets obviously ;D
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I suspect either a trick or that its harder than 7b+. Feels fully improbable. Thought I was going to do it until it transpired I'd actually done only the easiest move. Quite keen to go back though if thats any sort of indicator of quality (warning : I like rubicon)
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Effort Jon.
From what I remember, my good self and the manliest man in Britain were getting close to this by jumping right-handed at the break from a move or two in. It felt a goer like this, I think the problem was it's highly likely you'd brain yourself on the photographer/tree if you fell off too flamboyantly.
Obviously the spotter wasn't daydreaming about Carnaby Street, we might have stood a better chance.
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I can unfold my arms in under five seconds.
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More action here yesterday. Repeated Plan D from standing and sitting, quite easily much to my surprise. I think 7b+ is fair, I suspect having a pad on the tree made a difference, it still bit me a couple of times though. Eschewed jon's wierd sequence and just popped with right hand. Also did Idol's BAU start, though again not by his daft sequence. Again, easy 7b+?
Also fulfilled Old Mother Kershaw's predictions with an ascent of the right arete of this (Business as usual) block, to give Forward-Thinking Sound Engineer. 7a+ or possibly less? The crack is out, obviously, good sitter still to do. Perhaps done before as top holds looked to have been cleaned.
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Plan D did look steadier that way, but too gripping for me, padded tree or no.
Iain's new one saw a lot of effort but no success. The move for the edge is hard if you can't reach off the heel-toe
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JB on Plan D
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2288/2432356168_64356ee46f.jpg)
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cyclops at the back looks to be concealing something in his jacket - my suspicion is its actually two midgets, one sat on the other's shoulders.
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Gardoms continues to give up quality new lines:
On the line of the edge directly above Bin Laden's Cave is a small quarried bay. This is forty yards or so before (N) of Undertakers buttress, where the edge is mostly a bouldery slope.
Another Green World takes the central line: a strenuous pull on with a sidepull flake gains a tenuous bridge; slap to the obvious sloper; hard to stick at 7a.
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/gardoms-1.jpg)
The sitter, whilst trivial to reach the starting handholds for the stand, makes the strenuous pull on much trickier; 7b.
Despite the name, its not that green. A pint to the man who can spot the link to my previous problem on the edge.
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I saw that wall one time out taking pics for the Gardoms guide and wondered if it would go. There is also another little buttress left of My Squeezy Lemon Entry with no problems on it, and it looks very promising, a nice rampline on it, a lovely pocket and an arete. Here would be a chance for Idol Eyes to retro-claim it before a claim, maybe? Highball, but looks ok with pads.
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A pint to the man who can spot the link to my previous problem on the edge.
They're both shit?
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Gardoms continues to give up quality new lines
That indeed looks like a good find - respect to the seasoned gritstoners who realise ripe fruits can be had all year round...
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Quote from: Johnny Brown on Today at 09:21:50 am
A pint to the man who can spot the link to my previous problem on the edge.
They're both shit?
No, NotMarkReeves, that's not the link nor the truth. Get back to your logging and blogging.
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(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/gardoms-1.jpg)
I bet that sloper is hard to hang for an amputee.
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Quite. What I want to know though, is how did Idol Eyes know I've started working as a drilling engineer?
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Don't let Garan or Lee hear you calling yourself an engineer; umbrage will be taken.
Still a pint going, its pretty simple if you know your music.
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Eno.
Old Speckled Hen or Taylor's Landlord please (any chance of some dry roasted peanuts too?).
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eno?
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Eno?
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damn you Sly Panting!
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Hate it when that happens...
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Eno and Ron Rogers are both Old Salopians?
Maybe you'd have mentioned such illustrious alumni. So how is Eno connected to China etc?
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Snooze, you loose fella! :dance1:
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BUT WHAT IS THE CONNECTION?
All you've said is Eno. Which isn't an answer.
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You need to read more carefully Char.
China in your hands was not the last problem I did here.
It was Forward-thinking Sound Engineer, named in honour of the nameless hero who pushed 'record' whilst a Neil Young jam session for 'Like a Hurricane' was going particularly well, and the reason why the version that became definitive has no beginning.
Eno is, of course, another man to fit that description. And 'Another Green World' perhaps his best solo album.
Si, I owe you a pint.
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Bang to rights.
I have never heard of your problem 'Forward Thinking...'
Instead of spending ten minutes reading about various production credits I could have just written his name.
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Which is what I suspect the others did...
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i meant to write 'neo'. i thought they were matrix references.
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Is it Neo? From the Matrix?
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do people still climb at the matrix?
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They believe they do.
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Ahoy spicy captain, that looks good. Did you all do Double Bum in the end?
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Yes we did, all three versions. Need to return with beans for the topout.
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You bring the beans, i'll bring the bacon, egg, sausage and mushroom. We'll be eating breakfast all over it, like it's a formica tabletop.
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If I was around, we could all brew some lovely rinsemeal.... but i would only eat Ego Pops! with skitzed out milky wilky.
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just got video clip of adam doing the sitter to the latest problem here.
Could I email it someone so they can put it on youtube or similar and post it up here as I can't be arsed to sign up for an account and learn how to use it?
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I had to do it myself then
http://www.vimeo.com/1809433 (http://www.vimeo.com/1809433)
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looks good.
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Champagne Wall???
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I checked out a few of these problems recently.
English Voodoo is very nice. From the pics I've seen, it looks as though the original sequence may have been harder - we used a right hand crack for the top section? Sitter felt 7a+ maybe.
Also tried Another Green World. Failed miserably! Don't think it's 7a! Anyone else done this apart from JB?
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Also tried Another Green World. Failed miserably! Don't think it's 7a! Anyone else done this apart from JB?
tried it a while back and it felt frustratingly knacky. I think we'd had to warm up on it which didn't help.
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English Voodoo is very nice. From the pics I've seen, it looks as though the original sequence may have been harder - we used a right hand crack for the top section? Sitter felt 7a+ maybe.
I should have made this more clear at the outset, as you're not the first person to do this. EV doesn't use the crack, call it an eliminate (I prefer tight line) but them's the rules. I figured this would go without saying, cos if you use the crack at all you might as well climb the crack sans arete at about 5+ (which I also did but didn't bother to name/grade). IMO it only makes (perfect) sense as a problem if you eliminate the crack completely, hence that's what it's graded for.
Here's a pic for illustrations sake.
(http://static.flickr.com/111/267750657_c96c4e193c.jpg)
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So no crack on the sitter either?
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Correct, hence tough 7b.
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first ascent or thereabouts:
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/Peak/lovejoyenglishvoodoo.jpg)
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Nice overbite, in fact really nice looking rock, where abouts is it?
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under charlotte rampling.
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One from the archive, winter of '98-'99. Posted solely to add vital credibility to my claims that Pat and I 'did everything around that time, but didn't believe them worth recording'.
Competing for the wall that became China in your hands
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/gardoms-1-2.jpg)
I'll stick a couple more in the old skool thread.
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that's one for the new guide ken
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worm did another green world but only after 1000+ goes.
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I only had 999 goes. More fool me.
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Egg and your face must have been in alignment
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So no crack on the sitter either?
So....? What sequence did you use on the sitter? I figured two ways to do it (sans crack of course) both seemed pretty 7b when linked into the top.
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One hand in the crack, one on the arete. Get legs involved and slap a bit to get guppy jug. Come onto the arete, then work upwards and rock right to gain crack, then go again for top. Actually a very nice sequence, but I'll have another look sans crack. Maybe there's room for two versions?