UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: moose on October 04, 2006, 12:26:53 pm
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Currently in the market for some bouldering shoes mainly for tackling the steep stuff at places like the Bowderstone and the more brutal grit venues (Ilkley etc). I currently have a pair of Boreal Stingmas for "everyday" that fit snugly and are generally okay, but when it gets tough they often just don't feel right on the rock: bugger all feedback and I can't get get them to stick. Hence the new priority is sensitivity - though a bit of an edginess for micro-pockets/edges on the leaning horrors of Kyloe in would be good.
So any recommendations (I have a broad forefoot, with long toes - 2nd longer than the bigtoe)? Especially interested in La Sportiva Venoms and Vipers, has anyone used both, which was best? The Vipers got a great review in Rock and Ice recently and use the same last as Katanas which have always fit me like a glove - but are perhaps a little stiff for current needs. The Venoms look brilliant but frankly also a bit insane and if anything too specialised - though they have the Miura last which I know also fits me very nicely so can't be too "odd".
Sizing advice would also be much appreciated as nowhere seems to sell Sportivas in the North East anymore (Wild Trak stopped) and I'll have to order them in. Who knows, enough data I may be tempted to take an educated guess and buy blind mail-order..... (desperate and feel like treating myself!)
I'm street 11 (EU46), took 43 in Miuras and Katanas (about UK9.5 - tight at first, perfect after a few sessions), and am 43 (UK9.5) in Stingmas (also tried some Montrails recently and was 45 as they don't stretch). I suspect the slippers would have to be quite small - 42? (Golt you have some Venom's - what were the relevant sizes?).
Cheers - sorry if this seems a bit "me, me, me..." but presumably others are in the market for similar... so join in....
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Hi mate,
Venoms are wicked, not too specialised at all and i actually only use mine for a training shoe now, the problem with them is that they get slack when worn a lot however small you buy them so you end up not being able to heel hook in them.
I tried some vipers on and they feel amazing plus they have an inner slipper bit so that they dont sag around the ankle or hopefully not anyway. Sizing wise with sportiva slippers i normally buy about 2 half to 3 sizes smaller than my feet size. Very uncomfy at first but it gets better. I would definately advise trying before you buy though even if you have to travel to do it.
Other slip ons which are v popular and good are v-10s especially the new ones i think they are bringing out!
Hope that helps :great:
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moose dear,
the uk importers are lyon eqpt:
Lyon Equipment Ltd
Rise Hill Mill - Dent Sedbergh
Cumbria - U.K.
Tel. 44 15396 25493
Fax. 44 15396 25454
e-mail: info@lyon.co.uk
contact them to see if you can source a pair to try before buy
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Cheers - will give them a go, though I don't hold out much of finding somewhere to try them on within commuting distance. Nowhere seems to sell sportiva near Durham (hard to shift due to expense and difficulties dealing with Lyon supposedly) . Hell, the only place I have found that even does Venoms mailorder is V12 in Llanberis!
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I have a pair of these
(http://images.shopping.msn.com/img/3045/2478/1/10096473.jpg)
I look awesome in them
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that's nice for you dylan
moose, strangely, withington cycles in manc (http://www.withingtoncycles.co.uk/browse.php?node_id=5359) appear to stock the full sportiva range..
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it also benefits everyone who sees me in them................
I'm not THAT egocentric
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I have a pair of these
(http://images.shopping.msn.com/img/3045/2478/1/10096473.jpg)
I look awesome in them
Where did you pick them up?
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Now then Moose.
I take a 41.5 (7.5ish UK) in my Venoms and I'm a size 10 to 10.5 in UK shoes sizes. I've had them for a year and they haven't stretched a bit in comparison to Monkey Boys experience. Mine feel as good as the day I got them, and they are great on the steeper ground. There getting their first run out on the grit this weekend, will let you know how they fair up.
I have a pair of these
(http://images.shopping.msn.com/img/3045/2478/1/10096473.jpg)
I look awesome in them
I think them be 5.10 Dragons and you can get them in Needle Sports so next time your over for the cobble, go check them out.
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Now then Moose.
I take a 41.5 (7.5ish UK) in my Venoms and I'm a size 10 to 10.5 in UK shoes sizes. I've had them for a year and they haven't stretched a bit in comparison to Monkey Boys experience. Mine feel as good as the day I got them, and they are great on the steeper ground. There getting their first run out on the grit this weekend, will let you know how they fair up.
I have a pair of these
(http://images.shopping.msn.com/img/3045/2478/1/10096473.jpg)
needleshizzle..........
how's the trip plans going Adam?
I look awesome in them
I think them be 5.10 Dragons and you can get them in Needle Sports so next time your over for the cobble, go check them out.
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Trip plans good, lots of Font and Swis trips in the mean time though ;-)
Thought you might say that, guess a trip back home is in order then. Cant mail order as i dont know sizing. What are they like compared to new style V10's?
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boreals? you might as well use (http://carlsteadman.com/placing/v.jpeg)
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Now then Moose.
I take a 41.5 (7.5ish UK) in my Venoms and I'm a size 10 to 10.5 in UK shoes sizes.
Cheers golt, I suspect I will be a 42 in Venoms (my street shoes are EU45, Katanas 43). Unfortunately, Lyons got in touch to say the only Sportiva rockshoe stockists in the north of england is the "Climbers Shop" in The Lakes (and I don't trust them as they thought Wild Trak in Newcastle still sold them). Almost tempted to splash-out sight unseen, stupid I know but that's what boredom and a crushing job do to you (and admittedly the knowledge that Miuras and Katanas fit like a glove). The dragons do look good though - don't often see reputedly sensitive "steepness shoes" in a lace-up.
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Trip plans good, lots of Font and Swis trips in the mean time though ;-)
Thought you might say that, guess a trip back home is in order then. Cant mail order as i dont know sizing. What are they like compared to new style V10's?
Same same. You can crank them up with the laces.............the heel is WAY better and doesn't come off when heel hooking
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boreals? you might as well use (http://carlsteadman.com/placing/v.jpeg)
yeah, because Gaskins has climbed 9a+, v15 etc... and Andrada has climbed 9b in his. Footwork is more important than the shoes you wear.
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Trip plans good, lots of Font and Swis trips in the mean time though ;-)
Thought you might say that, guess a trip back home is in order then. Cant mail order as i dont know sizing. What are they like compared to new style V10's?
Same same. You can crank them up with the laces.............the heel is WAY better and doesn't come off when heel hooking
And sizing wise compared to V10 new stylee?
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yeah, because Gaskins has climbed 9a+, v15 etc... and Andrada has climbed 9b in his. Footwork is more important than the shoes you wear.
that point i did not dispute. i congratulate Gaskins on his fine ascents.
I met a chap struggling up a problem which he had been working for weeks when i was in Devon some weeks ago. His feet kept slipping off a tiny hold near the top. My friend offered him her 5-10s, and low and behold, he whizzed up to the top first time.
That example is on what i base my opinion. and also because my first pair of shoes were Boreals. And they were rubbish.
* edited for a spelling mistake
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boreals? you might as well use (http://carlsteadman.com/placing/v.jpeg)
yeah, because Gaskins has climbed 9a+, v15 etc... and Andrada has climbed 9b in his. Footwork is more important than the shoes you wear.
you tell em Uncle! Denbigh Den sunday?
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Trip plans good, lots of Font and Swis trips in the mean time though ;-)
Thought you might say that, guess a trip back home is in order then. Cant mail order as i dont know sizing. What are they like compared to new style V10's?
Same same. You can crank them up with the laces.............the heel is WAY better and doesn't come off when heel hooking
Same as.
Uncle doesn't need his feet so he wouldn't understand the nuances of footwork
And sizing wise compared to V10 new stylee?
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I have a pair of these
(http://images.shopping.msn.com/img/3045/2478/1/10096473.jpg)
I look awesome in them
i tried a pair of these on the other day and apart from the sizing being all to cock i.e. i wear 7-8 in 5.10s normally and i was just fitting in to a 9 1/2.they were a weird fit for even 5.10s,my toes were all bunched up while having a void behind my heel.
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new V.10's have they changed them already or are these the ones with rubber across the toe?
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You might wanna hang on a little bit and check out the new scarpa range from which the stixx slipper looks very nice indeed.
http://www.hotaches.com/Scarpa.htm
;D
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i just got a pair of the new dragons and they seem pretty damn awesome, I think theyre basically a lace up v10 but you can get your foot in them easily and then tighten them up 'real good'. Seem very small fititng if you are ordering them, I barely managed to fit in a 7.5 and thats been standard for me in anasazi's.
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Has anyone tried out the Evolv Talons? saw them on the Evolv webby but cannot find any Stockists in the UK - they may not have even been released yet :-\
Torn between trying them, the dragons and the venoms in my quest for the perfect tight heeled shoe!
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Has anyone tried out the Evolv Talons? saw them on the Evolv webby but cannot find any Stockists in the UK - they may not have even been released yet :-\
Torn between trying them, the dragons and the venoms in my quest for the perfect tight heeled shoe!
there is your answer right there! Hows your finger?
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Going to maybe go the doc's and see if I can get redirected to a sports physio and get it properly assessed! I think it might be worth paying a bit of money to find out the score rather than tentatively testing it out over and over again as it doesn't seem to be getting better any time soon :-\
Will check out the Dragons too cheers :beer1:
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After a lot of applicance of SCIENCE to calculate my probable size I took a punt on mail-ordering Sportiva Venoms in the end. Not worn them much in anger but I reckon we'll be very happy together. They seem to have a lovely balance of flex, stiffness and incredible big-toe directing power. Llike a very snug glove (a fit that can only be described as erotically crippling!). Looks like the time I spent feeding my Boreal Stingma, Montrail, and Sportiva sizes, and those of people in published rock-shoe reviews (and Golt) into my giant super-computer COLLOSSON was not wasted!