UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: enigma on September 28, 2006, 10:45:58 pm
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Finally done after 8 attempts, this surely can lay a solid claim to be the best girdle traverse on quarried grit in Cheshire. Don't all rush at once.
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About time to. Good effort.
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Surely that should be 8 years of attempts?
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That bit after the long back wall traverse is quite tricky. I think I went high to lurch between cracks.
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Is this a counter claim or are you confusing the girdle with the low level traverse?
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You'll have to excuse Dobbin, he's just a simple boy from a backwards town :P
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Effort Ben. What did you plump for in the end? E7 or E8?
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Is this who I think it is? shouldn't you be at college young man!
1st post, its downhill from here on in.
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excellent work - been lookin at that for years. right to left? the whole quarry or just the back wall?
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Oh. I stayed low. I did think this was an odd thing - surely people have been doing the low trav for years. I think its time I went home :-[
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I started right over on the small green walls at the right and soloed over until your under The Harp. There are 3 pitches from there: E4 5b,5c,6a with the crux right at the end leaving the shitty bird cave and passing a peg. I've not done it all in one go though yet.
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I've not done it all in one go though yet.
:-\ so you haven't really done it.
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The first 2 pitches were led on a separate day to the last pitch
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Get in there uncle, first ascent in a day ::)
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I have other fish to fry at Hobson Moor. Problem is, I drive past it nearly every week but never stop!
And just to add petrol to the fire, I don't really think that counts as a first ascent. I'm not too sure what the climbing world ethics are on multi-pitch routes, but in my book it just doesn't cut the mustard.
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:-\ so you haven't really done it.
The first ascent was completed after attempts spread out over several days by Nick White and Dave Thomas in 1989, the route received a one day single pitch ascent by Nic Sellars in 2003
That last quote's from UKClimbing News about The Flying Dutchman on Lundy. I read that the first ascent took place over different days. Anyone else think that?
Anyway, good effort Ben.
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Oh how withering. I make the effort to do something and then, of course, it transpires I haven't after all. I tried the route onsite at first, but sections of it were just too filthy for that so I spent an afternoon giving it a proper cleaning. Even after that it took a few attempts, as I kept falling of the last move.
If people really want to be pedantic and deny that this is a worthwhile ascent I'll just simply follow them down that road and claim two separate routes: The mid-Height Girdle of the Main Wall E2 5b,5c; and The Back Wall E4 6a.
That better is it?
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I can see this causing a furore to outdo the Keen Roof vs. Buoux 8c thread :P
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I can't TBH fiend.
however nevermind the flying duchman on Lundy, who here's done the flying dutchman at hobby moor and the flyingdutchman variation. me and the enigma for starters.
I'm sure you'll be back to do it in one day, can't see there been a massive rush of potential first assentionists flooding in
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The Dorys girdle has yet to receive a one day ascent. The reasons for this are more obvious though.
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It's not unusual for people to do FAs of mutipitches over a number of days, eg Castelan - Steve Bancroft/John Allen and Big Plum - Jerry Moffat. Obviously not as satisfactory, but a legit FA nonetheless based on this pretty rock solid historical precedent.
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Did the quarryman first get done over a number of days too?
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It's not unusual for people to do FAs of mutipitches over a number of days, eg Castelan - Steve Bancroft/John Allen and Big Plum - Jerry Moffat. Obviously not as satisfactory, but a legit FA nonetheless based on this pretty rock solid historical precedent.
am I understanding this correctly then... If I climb all the pitches of a multi pitch route in any order over any period of time, I can claim an ascent? I understand that there are numerous FA's out there on BIG multi pitch routes that haven't been done in a day.
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think so mate, yes.
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That's right Uncle, strange yet true. Personally i'd want to go back and tidy my ascent up if it was quite as messy as that but if I was just after the tick i'd already have it.
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sorry to hijack this thread. But when you are trying for a first ascent on a piece of rock with a lack of logical belay points is there a minimum pitch length? I ask because if you were a stupid fool (like myself) you would extrapolate this backwards and for a FA you would simply be required to have climbed every move individually and voila! You have the first ascent. I know this is ridiculous, but I'm only asking because I don't know what the normal precedent is when you climb big things!
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It's up to the person doing the FA. Some routes don't have ideal/logical places to take a belay. As long as they are clear in the way they write up the ascent the FA decides. Often subsequent ascentionists will combine pitches, often this makes for better route eg The Prow at the Tor, originaly done as 7b,7b,7c, now more usually done as one long 7c+.
I imagine if someone pushed the rule by splitting say a straightline 20m pitch into two or more pitches for no justifiable reason, this would technically be an ascent but would rightly be ridiculed as a copout and history would note the first person to climb the pitch as one. If the FA was very non sensical and on a significant line I dare say consensus might consider the route unascended until linked as one. It is not totally black and white but I don't think it's too hard to see where to draw the line in 99% of cases.
As it happens I have done a new multi-pitch route, but have yet to do it all in one day and I want to combine two of the pitches to make a more logical and challenging route. I could legitimately claim the route now, but i am holding back on claiming it until I have done it the way I'd like.
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(http://www.fotosearch.com/comp/IGS/IGS227/IS093-075.jpg)
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(http://www.barryshainbaum.com/hope/images/geller400.jpg)
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Huffys back! :o
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Morning Uri
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/lw.jpg)
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Coefield not looking too well there... loving Uri Huffer's jumper.
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Huffys back! :o
only for the crack mate.
Hi to all you psyched cats i aint seen for ages.
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(http://www.mycagefighter.com/images/sb18_b.jpg)
uncle you're being a cock!
have him huff
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every bloody photo he does...
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Dense, you're in trouble, because huffy and I are fighting alongside each other these days... you're going to have to find someone else to carry out your dirty work...
(http://www.wrestlingworld.it/Historical/Tagteamgallery/quebecerspierreoulettethemountie.jpg)
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C'mon Keith, if you're going to rip pics from our private collection, why not use the shots from lastnights rumble (you's on the right):
(http://www.comicus.it/nerosubianco/uploaded_images/The_Legion_Of_Doom_13-777856.jpg)
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Can just see the wisps of the mullet there too...
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Glad to see that this panned out in my favour in the end. I never tried to hide that this wasn't a perfect ascent (the 8 goes was a hint). Anyone who's been to Hobson Moor could verify that the belay stances I picked weren't random (you could happily camp on them if prepared), but i am personally happy with the ascent considering the effort it took.
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Having accompanied enigma on one of his attempts at this classic line I am willing to justify his siege tactics. For starters, the cave at the end of the crux pitch was filthy.
I had an attempt at leading this pitch. Worried was not the word. Friends tucked behind dubious blocks did not inspire me to push on to the 6a moves that would lead me to safety. I personally think that enigmas abseiling antics to clean this section were more than justified.
On the issue of belays. The belay before this bastion of British girdling was the only logical stopping place. The fact that it was E2 max to reach this point warranted the fact that subsequent attempts could be started from this stance.
I'm just gutted that it wasn't the attempt that I was on was the one that resulted in completion of this route. We started from the very start, and the first 2/3 pitches are an absolute delight. Well worth doing.
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I don't know wether to spit or swallow you toad. As concerns the F. A. list you're on it with everyone else so don't worry.
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Jesus wept. You try and do someone a favour and they throw it back in your face. Thats the last time I write a post with someone dictating it to me as I write. Cheeky fucker.