UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: ouch on August 09, 2006, 03:50:45 pm
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Hi all,
I was wondering what you all do to train pinch strength. I got a finger board but it doesnt have any pinch holds on it, should've checked for this doh :-[! I suppose I could buy some wooden batten and put this by the side?
Sorry if this has been done before but I'm new here and well if everyone did a search there wouldnt be any posts!!
cheers
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I use a 2 foot length of 4" drainpipe, capped off at both ends and filled with sand.
Wrap a band of coarse sandpaper around the middle and hey presto...
Hold with palm down for as long as possible, then repeat on other hand.
'Tis handy holding over a sofa etc. for when it drops, for a nice soft landing...
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I train the pinch grip using a weight plate with extra weight attached or 2 weight plates together for the wider grip. I am gonna try and make a pinch wood block with 2 grip widths which I can attach weight to. I will let you know how I get on with that.
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You could try these:
(http://www6.mailordercentral.com/ironmind/images/1248F.JPG)
http://www6.mailordercentral.com/ironmind/prodinfo.asp?number=1248
Plenty of stuff on www.dragondoor.com about pinching/crushing exercises too.
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Become a labourer for a season. Pinching breezeblocks/bricks is neat for pinch strength. And pinching something you can only just lift and walk with it. This works.
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There's a building site over the road from where I work, I'll go and 'borrow' a couple of bricks after work ;)
Being able to hold a pinch for more than half a second would be a start!
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Vary the weights and thickness of what you are lifting. I find thin pinches/fins quite desperate to use but fat pinches bomber (here I usually grip thin pinches between my thumb & 1st & 2nd joint of my index finger).
I wonder if lifting a breezeblock in a pinch grip then dropping and re-catching before it hits the ground might help?
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... I wonder if lifting a breezeblock in a pinch grip then dropping and re-catching before it hits the ground might help?
Not for my toes ;D
I find that I can hold a range of pinch grips, any bigger or smaller and I find it desperate. Like you say big pinches can be trained using blocks and bricks but what about smaller pinches I reckon these are harder to train I could screw something onto a board and hang from them, probably have to do alternate hands to start with.