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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Andy F on August 08, 2006, 07:11:40 pm

Title: Stunning new routes.
Post by: Andy F on August 08, 2006, 07:11:40 pm

Steve Dunning has added two hard routes to the Hollywood Bowl. Angel Eyes is 8b+ and moves left from the belay of Kleptomania. Tonto may be 9a, throwing a V12 ontop of Kleptomania (F8a)  :jaw:, moving right from it's belay.

Stunning indeed.

Title: Re: Stunning new routes.
Post by: Ste on August 09, 2006, 09:25:45 am

Hi Andy,
Can I just confirm that I have not given Tonto 9a.
Regards Steve D.

Title: Re: Stunning new routes.
Post by: Andy F on August 09, 2006, 10:47:14 am

Cheers Ste, hence the 'may be 9a' caveat, not a definate confirmation. Effort on the routes Ste, may see you back at Kilnsey now eh?

Title: Re: Stunning new routes.
Post by: Buoux 8C on August 10, 2006, 12:29:32 am

Had a butchers on the new routes today. In my opinion the 8b+ (leftwards line) is of poorer quality than the direct/rightwards trending line.

The 8b+ is exceptionally reachy ( a dyno for me) and alot harder for short people- i was unable to do the move. Obviously there may be a different sequence but i didnt see it, and doing it this way felt pretty much impossible for me.

Tonto- the rightwards finish is pretty good. Starting up the magnificent 8a- Kleptomania, then firing through a very steep roof with about 4 longgggggggg hard moves leading to an easier finish. I managed all the moves quickly, but was at the limit of my reach on two of them.

I would say the rightwards line, from previous experience would be nearer the 8c/8c+ ballpark. Although i obviously didnt redpoint it, so dont take my opinion for gospel. But i will be back shortly with the intention of a redpoint.


Nevertheless, its a very good climb and a fantastic effort by Steve D.

Steve- Drop me an email, with regards to beta for these routes.

Cheers Rich

Title: Re: Stunning new routes.
Post by: Ste on August 10, 2006, 01:19:33 pm

Sent you msg.