UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: fatneck on August 08, 2006, 08:00:29 am
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Well worth a visit and probably a bit more to go at than has been suggested.
Didn't manage to get to the Jelly Bowl cave due to tide miscalculations but still managed quite a few problems in the main bay containing the very hard looking V9 traverse "Soapy Tit Wank" (nice name).
There is a dark, detatched block on the right (looking out) with three easy lines that all go from a sitter and none harder than V2.
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pmAkndzHuOfc294TCd7o4A-b5JKqu69l296w6iJ8eaVC_abQVDR_eaVmEjJBMg_U8Gxfmb5mRPpxOPUdntmScLSC2tegZt1_RU0n3IOdbcJziLKXx2jrMcOE49C-ASFh59hJvz1a_KSk)
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pIjpkUX-8gH9iefhdL5nELyqadPLmJSHleiyj0-WKp1Ya5PcUDVZX9o4SN8tQ2WWTH1VUlbCfFZry1lnl5RJMKqxLHWds8eALV6iG8ZU-uCU)
Then there's an excellent springy V4 sit start on undercuts thing in a small bay to the left of the traverse.
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pmAkndzHuOfc294TCd7o4A31Iwak4-P9GZFXRO0dTyI5VPlYYWnxVtheMA4Y-7deK8WiX4cwsSVVEoiPDjuEJ2HrjdHMhSamT9EZFORiIw0KUbWBKO_NypmQpZfVxlHd_LAoZDCHhOO4)
Along with at least three other problems breaking through the traverse, mainly on sweet, water worn slopers finishing on sharp, slightly broken rock above.
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pmAkndzHuOfc294TCd7o4A-IuNsITxnF_uQFSpgmjgS7D-43vURbfYz1Im-gDK2UU_Y2w7DnZ3P5EAt5VzDXJMYywvlxLw6qj9BlQW6l90so3c5WcTsingbu5J97-JWXrU-Du6a9-28c)
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pmAkndzHuOfc294TCd7o4A0sHwT7kFbMt8NqhiYV_BPkGvZ9cCxvAIfpGIr6SBbILhV90_TeVEmaCYCeAnTYCmE36gVAOLzfDZ1nDPU335tf3L3Y0Jygcb_Z8sDygsrCkncui2mLnt7E)
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pmAkndzHuOfc294TCd7o4A90OC2V3Kxwe-AQA-guSWdD815eA960z4i90f0wfyTDu4Ox6clNTVRlS7N8y32rEx5gdY8nPlB9EVd7NkNshRlvKx0NfJDzSWDdkn2rdcntBKSROa_ouzYM)
Combine this withe cave and you have a decent little circuit, just make sure you've got a dead low tide. The beach itself is beautifull, the kids love it.
Also, sunsets on the Lleyn are better than anywhere else in the world, it's a fact...
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pmAkndzHuOfc294TCd7o4A2W_kEcyDDUby4LcqMy_OlKQZvgvKKDM1OISWjTi8RDL98Gd4hu2nQRw4klE1MglgWPVh4Msb_O8msob0I5pkVnKPBQls5t-k_m5N4wBfJylJWPLdxJ-7mw)
(http://tkfiles.storage.msn.com/x1pmAkndzHuOfc294TCd7o4A5JvZa1sJiBvGYsZ2oHKCGo3IQhifjuzpG-pR89hWCqsz79ymjimXXefxd6y00IdAzMZLp7TtagT0zKJBlL98MM_gpSTTeZDUvvKYZWtkSI9)
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I think I've been camping here a couple of times, but never did any bouldering - beautiful place though. Had a superb morning doing acid and jumping off boulders into the sea :)
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Shame the tides were wrong for the Jellybowl cave as there are some great problems in there (provided there is a bit of a breeze to dry it off).
(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Jellyhead.jpg)
Jellyhead V4/6b
(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/gallery/Jellybowlcrack2.jpg)
Jellybowl Crack V6/7a
By the way, it's 'Slopey Tit Wank' - almost tasteful, dontcha think?
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Nice pictures.... I drew a little topo a few years ago for Panto of these problems - he might be able to scan it and post it up..
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That would be a good idea...
By the way, it's 'Slopey Tit Wank' - almost tasteful, dontcha think?
Is it your prob then Si?
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No, if I remember correctly, I did it in a couple of sections then never went back, then Higg went and did it (I think, I'd have to check to be sure).
I'll see if I can find that topo.
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And some idiot proof directions, as embarrassingly I falied to find the crag/bouldering on my only visit,
that was with the NW guide as well !
Did find some nice coves further north along the coast with some limited bouldering after jumping
a couple of barbed wire fences ?
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From the main beach at Porth Oer walk north east over the top to reach a small sandy bay. This is literally 50-100m from the main beach. There is a mud runnel access point (slightly unnerving!) at the back, close to the point where the the inland path meets the coastal path. (NB.This is the best approach if just going bouldering as you can always walk back down the beach for a cafe hit later. There is room for a few cars to park close to where the path meets the road. On a sunny day you'll probably see people parked here already - some folk will do anything to avoid a car park fee.)
Fatnecks' pics are in the small sandy bay. The Jellybowl cave lies just around the corner (less than 50m from the edge of the sandy bay). You can reach it by scrambling around above the water at mid tide; at low tide you can walk around on the sand. It really is very obvious, in fact I found it the first time I went without even knowing it was there. I'm guessing that you went too far north?
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Cheers for the directions, I followed the cheepskates approach you mentioned but wasn't inspired by what I saw and carried on up the coast.
I did see that sandy runnel on the way back so I 'll know for next time, looks like a big rainstorm would wash it away.
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Was on the Lleyn a couple of weeks ago and paid the obligatory visit here, sadly, someone had been smashing rocks against the lip of the cave! By the debris beneath, I suspect it had only just happened. Don't know if it affected any existing problems...
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3887/15100246511_774329e34f.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/p1mHcM)
And whilst I'm on, is this the most frustrating place to try and climb conditions wise on earth!? I don't think I've ever been and it's been fully dry anywhere but on the lip. Fantastic potential, just perma wet...
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is this the most frustrating place to try and climb conditions wise on earth!?
You've clearly never climbed in Aberdeenshire. At least that appears to get some sunshine on it.
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That looks like Jelly Bowl Crack. Doubt it would matter as your hands are in the crack. The sharp stuff will soon get rounded out after a few winter storms.
Good conditions here are tricky to get. You need a dropping temperature and a strong wind. Shame as there is a stunning 7Cish project line coming out of the back roof on the right side. The main problems do dry out okay but I've never seen that project in a climbable state.