UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: route149 on July 20, 2006, 02:43:34 pm
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newish to fingerboard workouts whyoh why does working the 4th and 5th finger pair together appear to load the 4th finger more than the fifth?
I'm comparing the perceived load with how it feels when I work the much stronger 3rd/4th pair together.
It seems unlikely, but the 4th finger seems to tolerate loading less than the fifth. is this possible and how do you explain it?
:-\
no karma deficit for me, please. I'm new to these parts and hey, good karma's in short supply here, even though I shared a karma-enriched organic chocolate bar, lightly chilled, around the office today.
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yo 149 i can only concur - I've been pulling my wedding ring finger consistenly for last couple of months, especially on particularly crimpy shizznit at the wall, and mostly traverses. Think I may have opened up some wack sort of weakness now, explainable purely by the length of finger compared to the pinky I guess?
Anything to be gained by strapping the two together? I don't know.
Anyone got any SCIENCE to back this shit up?
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I do know the commonest climbing finger injury is tearing the A2 pulley in the ring finger. I've done both of mine, luckily it's bark is worse than its bite. My advice is don't train, and don't crimp.
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It sounds like you are not strong enough for concerted fingerboard sessions. As your attourney I would advice much rest, then strengthen your fingers in another way than putting all of your weight on the end of them. When you've done that, maybe return to your fingerboard. Finger strength is everything, just be patient developing it. You have years.
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Finger strength is everything, just be patient developing it. You have years.
You assume too much, my friend. I am 122 years old, and still I can never exceed V6. As a younger man, I blamed my excessive hedonism, the fact that I drank 3 bottles of wine daily, and my rotund belly. Now I have no excuse.
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Then I'm sorry mate but you're fucked. ;)
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I do know the commonest climbing finger injury is tearing the A2 pulley in the ring finger. I've done both of mine, luckily it's bark is worse than its bite. My advice is don't train, and don't crimp.
Thats funny, I've done this (or at least what I thought was this) and couldn't open hand anything, but could still crimp with no pain.
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Then I'm sorry mate but you're fucked. ;)
Again, Monsignor Houdine, you assume too much. I have not been :shag: -ed for 62 years. I am probably capable of it, given enough notice, but I have very few peers, you see, and the younger women are not so keen, it appears. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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I'm not surprised, you and your mate look like you smell of wee.
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e67/houdini2/harryenfieldandchums_3.jpg)
Old gits in agony should stay in agony!
But seriously, V6 ain't so bad for an old git...
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I'm not surprised, you and your mate look like you smell of wee.
(http://math.bu.edu/people/horacio/fotos/Abuelos_Dubroff_s.jpg)
You assume too much. That's me on the left, smelling, in fact, of napthalene balls.
I climbed with Harold Raeburn you know. Bouldered, in fact. And Norman Collie made excellent tea.
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Woooooo today I have assumed so much! Why - I must be a total muthafucka... ???
But dude, if that's your missus then your pulley issues are the least of your problems. Your wife clearly has cancer of the left side of the jaw, and she's booted to boot. But I dare say that in 1923 she was quite a peach...
Finger training, have a gander:
1 (http://www.bodyresults.com/S2preseason3.asp)
2 (http://www.nicros.com/New%20Training%20Center/Finger%20Training%20Theory.shtml)
3 (http://www.gripmaster.net/gripmaster/climbing.html)
4 (http://www.healtheestuff.com/powerputty/index.htm)
5 (http://www.grapplearts.com/Grip-Strength-Training.htm)
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Woooooo today I have assumed so much! Why - I must be a total muthafucka... ???
But dude, if that's your missus then your pulley issues are the least of your problems. Your wife clearly has cancer of the left side of the jaw, and she's booted to boot. But I dare say that in 1923 she was quite a peach...
Finger training, have a gander:
1 (http://www.bodyresults.com/S2preseason3.asp)
2 (http://www.nicros.com/New%20Training%20Center/Finger%20Training%20Theory.shtml)
3 (http://www.gripmaster.net/gripmaster/climbing.html)
4 (http://www.healtheestuff.com/powerputty/index.htm)
5 (http://www.grapplearts.com/Grip-Strength-Training.htm)
dude, that is useful stuff. I'll have a try and post back. That's if I don't crack those ancient bones first.
Better dose up on my vitamins first.
Hey, I feel a v8+ coming on before my 123rd birthday. :greed:
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yo 149 i can only concur - I've been pulling my wedding ring finger consistenly for last couple of months, especially on particularly crimpy shizznit
Anything to be gained by strapping the two together? I don't know.
don't do that strapping thing if you've got a2 woes, dude. mix cocktails and plunge that injury in. the cocktails don't need alcohol. just water and ice. don't climb for a bit. hang out with your missis instead.