UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: route149 on June 28, 2006, 10:40:06 pm
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total newbie post
been watching V8 to V10 boulderers in action and i want somathat body tension. i know all the drills on overhanging terrain but i want to be able to do sick flat smears on nothing and toe presses.
any top tips
:please:
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What are toe presses?
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may not be a recognised term, but i mean the action when you drive all your bodyweight down through one toe of one foot on a marginal hold with your body pretty much extended like a plank.
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Crunches, Leg raises, front levers, that sort of thing. So I've heard.
Sing with me
Work the body. Work work the body.
But much more fun to find some rock with some proper horizontal action and get stuck in - Tom's Roof, Parisellas, Woodwell, that sorta thing...
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I've tried and failed miserably at some of Ms Bubba's Pilates exercises - I really think that Pilates would benefit body tension.
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The ultimate sick body tension would have to be rigor mortis :-\
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I like to feel my body......feel my body
Sorry, bringing this topic back on track and separating us from cocktalk.........................
Try:
L shape pull ups
Front levers
an ab wheel
Plank exercises
Crunches
Other things like superman (aquamans) also help.
just :google: the above
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:goodidea:
i've just done some aquamen (aquamans sounds wrong) and i'll add another new exercise tomorrow. i'll report back in a week's time. But hey, how can i objectively measure my core tension ability?
:( there's no obvious way that i can think of.
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Train on a steep board using only screw ons for your feet. Do levers, leg raises, crunches and eat 3 shredded wheat every day
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eat 3 shredded wheat every day
you mean, 3 shredded wheat and nothing else?
for once in my life
i can have a ripped bo- dy[/i] [huh, oh yeah]
for one in my life V14 is a pa-ath
for once in my life I'm like a greased whip-pet
three shredded wheat. :-\
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One arm pressups with a tensed stomach and back - sets of three byatch.
Tuck Planches for 60 seconds -
Front levers...
Do pullups whilst your mate punches you in the guts
It's all good..
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Sit on floor with legs straight ahead.
Palms down push up off floor.
Crossing legs under you as you roll it into a handstand.
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cheers
as i'm new to these parts, what's with the karma rating thing? what's that about and how does it work?
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what's that about and how does it work?
Do a search for "Karma" in shootin' the shit... It's all in there :rtfm:
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cheers m8
i guess you posted that before reading it.
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i only do that thing that you hang a hold or bar and pull your body horizontal. am close to do it one arm.
ciao.
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i only do that thing that you hang a hold or bar and pull your body horizontal. am close to do it one arm.
ciao.
a front lever with one arm?
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(http://www.t-nation.com/img/photos/04-080-feature/image008.jpg)
I think our Italian friend is taking the Micheal
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(http://www.t-nation.com/img/photos/04-080-feature/image008.jpg)
I think our Italian friend is taking the....
how do we know he's italian? he might live there but be faking the dodgy english. might be john gill hanging out in italy. or john gaskins. who knows?
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hey, i said im close, not that i can do it.
its alot more technical than brutal.
i mean, brute power may help.
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how do we know he's italian? he might live there but be faking the dodgy english. might be john gill hanging out in italy. or john gaskins. who knows?
and....
check out my pics. doubts about me being italian will disappear instantly.
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which contrada is shown on the shield in your profile? is it nearly palio time?
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wow!!!!
you know things!!! im impressed!!! how do you know about the palio?
besides,
my avatar is not a contrada, but my contrada is istrice, or, how you say, porcupine.
palio took place last sunday, and we did very bad. we were favourites, and we lost. and lost badly.
anyway,
we had great fun during the days of the palio, lots of laughter and wine.
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/it/thumb/6/61/Contrada_Sovrana_dell%27Istrice-Stemma.PNG/600px-Contrada_Sovrana_dell%27Istrice-Stemma.PNG)
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how do you know about the palio?
I'm sorry the istrice contrada didn't win for you. I know about the palio because we love siena and find it very inspiring. I think the history of the palio is fascinating.
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Well now, the pair of you have just confused the shit outta me!
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palio
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Indeed! Crossbows! Archery! Jousting! One-arm front levers!
Is this some Italian Highland Games?
Oh, just because John Gill did it - doesn't mean we should. That fruit ripped is bi-cep off the bone, twice. Now that's one injury I'm keen to avoid! Twice! (Shivering with horror smiley)
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Oh, just because John Gill did it - doesn't mean we should. That fruit ripped his bi-cep off the bone, twice. Now that's one injury I'm keen to avoid! Twice! (Shivering with horror smiley)
did he then eat the bicep, with fava beans, perhaps?
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As I'm sure Nibile & perhaps The_Dom will tell you, when consuming human flesh (an excellent source of creatine) a fine Chianti is more important than Fava beans.
I found this site to be most interesting, as I love gymnastics, and core strength is where it's at.
click here pain-lovers (http://www.dragondoor.com/articler/mode3/229/)
how do we know he's italian? he might live there but be faking the dodgy english. might be john gill hanging out in italy. or john gaskins. who knows?
and....
check out my pics. doubts about me being italian will disappear instantly.
There is only one sure way of checking if Nibile is an all Italian gentleman. And I think you know what I'm talking about... (bagsy Slopes does the checking!)
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
siena is an amazing town. few things are better than going bouldering in a fresh summer afternoon, and then get back and stay out till dawn..
i think gill ripped his bicep while bouldering, not training....and thanks houdini, that was a scary reminder...may as well drop the challenge...
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I'd like to see gaskins core training regime, maybe 100 front levers balancing an anvil on his toes
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My spies tell me that John prefers to employ the King James bible, as anvils are hard to find these days...
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Once met a man who said when he met Gaskins (this was years ago, possibly in the 90s, possibly before) he was doing sit-start campussing. He had a campus board he could reach from the ground, and just two rungs on it, made from wood dowels. Doing the move thus meant keeping legs at 90 degrees. When he could do the move, he shaved a bit more off the dowels.
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balancing an anvil on his toes
Are you sure he used his toes? Heard it was a part of the body a bit higher up. Balancing an anvil on that is unbeatable as a party trick and for killer core stability.
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few things are better than going bouldering in a fresh summer afternoon, and then get back and stay out till dawn..
where is best bouldering round there, btw?
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in one hour drive we are at over 4000ft, its called mount amiata. summer is perfect. ok, really, not perfect but very good. goin tomorrow to clean up new stuff!!!
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I've seen some stunning examples of core-strength in my time, but the dude-and-a-half on this video takes the biscuit.
What this guy does just before the vid ends blows my mind.
Don't take my word for it, see for yourself by moving your mouse towards the light-blue text! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyMasVRj4KI&search=breakdancing)
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:jaw:
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What this guy does just before the vid ends blows my mind.
Don't take my word for it, see for yourself by moving your mouse towards the light-blue text! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyMasVRj4KI&search=breakdancing)
if you mean the footless press ups, remember watching Toby Benham doing them then trying them. Impressive, simply having the power to effectively bench press your weight at an angle with that much ease is hard enough, but whilst having the core strength to hold your body is phenomenal.
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think thats on one of huffys training vids? bear in mind that these people are medically classified as midgets, purely for the take on levers etc. i would be psyched to see some impressive stuff from someone who is not a stump (for core stuff). best i can think of so far is dave thomas holding front levers at the edge woody
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but front levers just aren't that hard. We need some other test of core strength. I can't do those fingertip planch pushup, and neither could toby could he? I know he could push ups in a handstand (which isn't particulary hard either) but I never saw him to those bad boys. so dense and others...
1. devise a test
2. everyone tries
3. we see what core strength really is
to all those wannabe's
“A competitive world offers two possibilities. You can lose. Or, if you want to win, you can change.†:lol:
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but front levers just aren't that hard. We need some other test of core strength. I can't do those fingertip planch pushup, and neither could toby could he? I know he could push ups in a handstand (which isn't particulary hard either) but I never saw him to those bad boys. so dense and others...
for real, was doing them in my bedroom back in the day. Came up on a bike to get some music for his mp3 player, shortly after having run from sheffield to matlock for no real reason. Fucking loon.
Where the hell is he nowadays? spain?
fuck man even i can do push ups in a handstand (as long as someone holds my feet) :whistle:
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WOW. Honorary wad point for Toby! Last I heard he was in NZ again but had gone and joined a Circus or circus school...
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Well, after reading 'fingertip planch press-up' I immediately gave it a go. And yes, they are piss, and I should put out at this juncture that 1) I am pissed & 2) I am a stumpy. So yes, they are too goddam easy. Front levers too, again far to easy for a guy that weighs less than a Penny Black or six.
I thought I would try and do some of those finger-tip push-ups with my body horizontal to and off the floor...
...I failed comprehensively. These are officially nails. However, I found it an invaluable, nay perfect, exercise for generating stars before my eyes, and I feel extremely woozy and must sit down a while and perhaps drink more.
I thought it most impressive when the geezer was in a handstand and revolved his body/legs around without losing it. Most cool.
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you just did this???
(http://www.dragondoor.com/images/articles/8C-Josh.jpg)
WAD
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Not as well as that young chap there, that's for sure. Arms not so straight, legs not as wide, but almost there. I put this down to very long arms and short legs, being light, and a savage push-up regime and some hop energy that will help me forget the seering pain I now have in my armpits!
What I'm saying is - I am no wad. Just built for it.
That young chap there is quite something, and I must confess to a feeling somewhat envious of his preturnatural talent.
EDIT - I would like to confess that I've been trying these all week, and have not found them to be as easy as I may have earlier suggested....
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did none of you read my post? toby is medically a midget, he is built for these things, i would like it known that i think he's a monster at this kind of thing, however i am talking about impressive core stuff from slightly taller people. i have seen a fair few things so when i say watching dave do a front lever was impressive i mean it was pretty impressive. so give me your core stories people...
handstand push-ups with someone holding your feet are not even discussed in creches
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why are you still hanging about in creches? Ofcourse they're not discussed there, 3yr old kids have better things to discuss...
How about 1 arm L-Sit Pull ups... keeping your body straight and open of course.
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am gona come down there n raise you on the river. you've just made that exercise up :wall:
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Then you've just paid to see my Ace high flush and you had better find another way of earning a living...
as for making it up, maybe, but you know what they say “Invention is 1% inspiration and 99% perspirationâ€... remember that next time you leave early after a measly 1 hour session... ;)
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EDIT - I would like to confess that I've been trying these all week, and have not found them to be as easy as I may have earlier suggested....
talk about me and the one arm front lever...
i was close but theres no way i can come closer and do it.
for now...
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What is amazing (and I was inspired to check it out again by this thread) is how John Gill was stronger than probably 95% of the people who use this forum and that was nearly 50 years ago. That really does leave me speechless.
"By 1958 I had learned a variety of climbing-related muscle feats, four of which can be seen below: One-arm (front) levers , One-finger pull-ups (on a metal ring 3/4" to 1" diameter) , One-arm pull-ups with weights (20+ pounds) , and One-arm pull-ups on a 1/2" ledge . Plus a One-arm Lever Pull-up" - John Gill
As to these one arm front levers of which nibile speaks, I am guessing you mean one arm side levers (not true front levers). I just read that apparently JOhn Gill could actually do a one front lever (ie. holding a 2 arm one and taking one arm without his body moving). Once again... Speechless.
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yes one arm side lever, but as i discovered its really really really hard to close the gap between having a good try at it, and doing it.
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What is amazing is how John Gill was stronger than probably 95% of the people who use this forum and that was nearly 50 years ago. That really does leave me speechless.
You say you're speechless twice but manage to keep waffling on. Where's alan when you need him? 'I wish you were.'
What amazes me is that people think one arm front levers will really make them climb better. By the sounds of things Gill was stronger than 100% of the people on the forum. Did people have to get even stronger in order to climb harder than him? No...
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Gill was evidently a beast. Call me a heretic, but what surprises me most is that he didn't put up harder problems. For a man of his strength he didn't do much with it.
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For a man of his strength he didn't do much with it
for climbing purposes please. what do you have to do with all that strength then? we're talking impressive shit here, never mind pulling on a smaller crimp cos your fingers are smaller than the next guys
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Ok amend that to: For a man of his strength he didn't get near to applying it's potential on rock.
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Gill was evidently a beast. Call me a heretic, but what surprises me most is that he didn't put up harder problems. For a man of his strength he didn't do much with it.
Always thought this.
Ok amend that to: For a man of his strength he didn't get near to applying it's potential on rock.
Yep, found myself reaching this conclusion too.
Bottom line is Gill was a brute. And.... He was far too fucking heavy. Far far too heavy. Add the poor footware into the equation and what have you got? John Gill in the 50's.
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How about 1 arm L-Sit Pull ups... keeping your body straight and open of course.
am gona come down there n raise you on the river. you've just made that exercise up :wall:
Well don't know about 1 arm L-sit pull ups, but Seth used to do 1 arm L-sit lock offs, front on and staying open, for at least ten seconds on each arm, over several sets. After sessions in the school. What an arsehole. :wank:
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Gill was evidently a beast. Call me a heretic, but what surprises me most is that he didn't put up harder problems. For a man of his strength he didn't do much with it.
i happened to read gills biography by pat ament. the book isnt great, its quite boring, not even close to gullich biography in terms of pure passion and writing, but was a funny book, tho.
anyway,
gill was very much into the aesthethic of climbing, and one reason he didnt put up anything "hard" (beyond v8 7b+......) is that he wanted to climb every problem as stylish and beautifully as possible. so no slapping, no cutting loose without control, etc. coming out from a roof, instead of bumping a heel or dynoing out, he would gently let down his legs, then do a slow, controlled one arm pull up, lock off, and move to the next hold.
its in da book.
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coming out from a roof, instead of bumping a heel or dynoing out, he would gently let down his legs, then do a slow, controlled one arm pull up, lock off, and move to the next hold.
Maximum control maybe, good style not really.
In my book this is climbing in poor style. Good style by my definition is doing something with maximum efficiency i.e. least expenditure of effort.
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:agree:
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im not sure to agree with the "style=efficiency" theory completely.
to me style is style, regardless of effort.
but ya know...im italian... :P
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and it still comes down to the fact at the strongest climbers are the ones who do the most/hardest stuff. This is not a questionable, it is fact.
The monk has a point, but one that I think is only viable and applicable in the 7th grade. How many 8B's and above require more technique than strength. In fact, point me out an 8B climber who isn't very STRONG.
I do kind of agree with bonjoy, but ultimately style isn't just using the least effort and increasing efficiency. Perhaps that is a component of it, but it's so much more than that. I actually don't know anything about style.
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gill was very much into the aesthethic of climbing, and one reason he didnt put up anything "hard" (beyond v8 7b+......)
According to this http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=326 he climbed the first V10...
More here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Gill_%28climber%29
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The monk has a point, but one that I think is only viable and applicable in the 7th grade. How many 8B's and above require more technique than strength. In fact, point me out an 8B climber who isn't very STRONG.
Ryan and Tyler have strong fingers, fuck all body weight and an intuitive grasp of momentum. You don't see them doing L-sit pull-ups or one arm front levers. Yes most 8b climbers in their thirties are all-round strong, but the fast repeats are coming from stringy youths swinging about.
I do kind of agree with bonjoy, but ultimately style isn't just using the least effort and increasing efficiency. Perhaps that is a component of it, but it's so much more than that. I actually don't know anything about style.
I think we all know style when we see it. Its about looking like you are using the least effort and climbing in the most efficient way. To achieve this you can either be over strong and but only use it in complete control, or you can use momentum to render powerful moves gentle. For me, I'll admit, its also about bending your hands back as you windmill slightly slower than required to the next hold, plus shaking you hair out (summer) or adjusting your beanie (winter) at opportune moments...
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The monk has a point, but one that I think is only viable and applicable in the 7th grade. How many 8B's and above require more technique than strength. In fact, point me out an 8B climber who isn't very STRONG.
Ryan and Tyler have strong fingers, fuck all body weight and an intuitive grasp of momentum. You don't see them doing L-sit pull-ups or one arm front levers. Yes most 8b climbers in their thirties are all-round strong, but the fast repeats are coming from stringy youths swinging about.
Its a fair point Keith - for instance, neither Ryan nor Tyler can do 1-5-8 on a campus board (in fact last time I saw each try neither could do 1-4-7!), and Ryan usually has to try pretty hard just to do one one-armer. Doubt he could do a front lever either! But for the exact reasons Adam says, they are both beasts.
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Doubt he could do a front lever either!
I'd be bloody impressed if he could with that lanky torso.
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Momentum or lightness? You decide (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJ0ngRjH9BE&search=gymnastics)
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or a fat suit.
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Don't think so. There's nothing covering his neck, he's got wristbands sure and long trousers, but the neck is naked. I think it's real.
His body tension will blow, mind. Deadhangs deadly, frontlevers but a dream. Owning a delicate victorian toilet? Impossible.
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to me style is style, regardless of effort.
but ya know...im italian...
nibile please, we've seen pics of you wearing an elbow support ;)
that guys a fat bastard
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Don't think so. There's nothing covering his neck, he's got wristbands sure and long trousers, but the neck is naked. I think it's real.
His body tension will blow, mind. Deadhangs deadly, frontlevers but a dream. Owning a delicate victorian toilet? Impossible.
it's definitely fake. It's from some commercial which I have seen many times in much higher resolution than that youtube video. It is a fat suit, 100% guaranteed.
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that guys a fat bastard
You mean that guy is about as convincing as Fat Bastard in Austin Powers. How can anyone think thats real? You can see his neck looks like a vagina.
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i meant fat bastard from austin powers, the suit is genius tho
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Shame it's not real, it would be cool to imagine at least one cool fat bastard.
Meatloaf doesn't count.
You've lost me on the vagina thing, Chris.
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See last 5 minutes of Goldmember.
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to me style is style, regardless of effort.
but ya know...im italian...
nibile please, we've seen pics of you wearing an elbow support ;)
absolutely, indeed.
thats style: i didnt need it!!!!!! ;)
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and, before you all ask:
yes i have only one pair of pants for summer bouldering.
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I hope you are not confused about the word Pants, Nibile.
In the UK this is short for Underpants, also known as Grundies, Skids, Keks (oddly also German for biscuits), Turd Trappers (OK OK, I made that one up, but if you use it often enough there's hope yet) and many many more!
Pants can also be used to explain something worthless. For example, "Dude! Those pants are pants!"
(But they are never known as trousers, not even if they are Roberto Cavalli pants.)
However, it amuses me to think that you really only have one pair of pants, at all. Top tip! Shun the pant! Climb in Speedo's, like me. You know, the types that give you a pair of tea-bag underpants sewn inside! No more super-sweaty balls!
I'll give you all a year before you too find yourself at Burbage/Meschia in Speedo's - and if that isn't a definition of style then sue me.
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consider yourself sue'd
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Heretic!
Get in the back of the van! And you can kiss your Speedo deal goodbye!
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This is sick body tension - here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPNuy2h9KL4&search=gymnastics%20the%20rings)
This, Unc' is the definition of WAD: 49 seconds to perform. A world of pain to train for. You can dream...
And this! Well, what's to say about this? Not much sick body tension being displayed here... but too odd not to post! Here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wtd3Mtr0dyg&mode=related&search=)
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mindblowing strength.
Even stronger perhaps? (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7_Q8puqU_4&NR)
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Without a shadow of a doubt, considerably more powerful. This is why I watch the Olympics. You can shove your 100m sprint!
Definitive Waddage, Life Waddage even.
Actually this is me in a muscle suit. Sometimes I am crushed by my own modesty...
More Olympic Waddage (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ret_SzEqYlc&mode=related&search=)
Shows a little of how breakdancing is pimped basic floor moves, I think.
(Shocking School Room Footage!) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqbn1PPeQtg&mode=related&search=BODYBUILDING)
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a bit off topic i guess, but its quite important, at least for me:
i have many pairs of pants (underwear), but only one pair of trousers for summer bouldering.
;)
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(Shocking School Room Footage!) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqbn1PPeQtg&mode=related&search=BODYBUILDING)
wow!!!
and i thought i was stupid for filming my campusboard routines...
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nibile, it couldn't be any lamer than this...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjQS7uUMGtA&search=climbing%20campus
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OOps! That youtube link I posted is poo, well, not poo: it's an amazing parallel bars routine. What I mean to post I cannot find again. However, this trailer is pretty funky. Wouldn't mind a crack myself.
here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dd19yxhi_cM&search=gymnastics%20the%20rings)
ps - My gran (if she wasn't dead) could do better on the campus board that that lass!
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its not really body tension but...dealing with rings...
a climber friend of mine once met jury chechi, the italian gymnast monster, in a gym. he went for some chatting, and after a while, here came the obvious question: how many one arm pullups can you do?
he said: i dont know, i dont train for that.
my friend: ok, but have you ever tried?
jury: yes, sometimes.
friend: and how many could you do?
jury: around twenty.
a bit of body tension, tho.
(http://www.myecard.it/card/chechib.jpg)
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Check this guy out. And no, although he has been going to Zaff's yoga class, it isn't Dense. Yet...
(http://ashtangayoga.info/asana-vinyasa/advanced-a-series/02a-Vishwamitrasana.jpg)
(http://ashtangayoga.info/asana-vinyasa/advanced-a-series/05-Bhairavasana.jpg)
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i am not impressed, i am sickened.
I don't want to be able to do that.
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that's lucky ;)
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i am not impressed, i am sickened.
I don't want to be able to do that
Weren't you in a similar position just before your last trip to the northern general?
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I went to Yoga last Monday and the instructor made me 'ROAR' like a lion but I felt more like Gareth Cheeseman...
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I would pay vast sums to have seen that.
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Actually johnny your'e not far wrong, although it wasn't the last time i went the northern general, maybe the time before the time before the time before...
On the basis of this thread i went to a 90min 1:2 yoga session this morning. Awesome! Feel like my joints are all going to fall out....again. Reckon its really good for strengthening my injured bits now they're as stable they're going to be.
I also graduated from kindergarten and did a headstand without someone holding my feet. Are you proud of me dense!? ;-)
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Yo JR. First headstand. Damn fine effort! Once you've cracked the balance bit, then the scorpion asana is a but a few steps away. Quite tricky, but involves dropping your feet back towards head whilst pushing up onto your forearms and raising head off floor. Happy balancing, dude!
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Thus?
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e67/houdini2/images.jpg)
Full on.