UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: (woz) on June 08, 2006, 10:14:09 am
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Does anyone know anything about the 7c mentioned in the peak guide (something honey?) i.e. where abouts at carrhead rocks + line etc? Would'nt mind going there for a peek tonight - just a peek mind, too hot for any climbing 8) . Also is climbing still allowed there?
dan
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Fairly sure this will be access land under CROW but visiting is discouraged due to the badgers. Plus the fact that it would be considered poor even in lancashire but (a bit like lancashire, but on a much smaller scale) is surrounded, nay overlooked, hemmed in by, superb crags on three sides...
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it would be considered poor even in lancashire
ah, the reason for it being left out becomes all too clear! I spose it was a bit much for me to be expecting a super little forgotten crag. Nevermind, I may still go for a walk there one day to check it out.
cheers
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Irish Si and Neil Mawson did the hard problem, thinking it the FA and gave it 7b+.
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Did they have anything to say about its quality? + do you know where it goes?
p.s. nice fall at the tor the other night - looked like it should have hurt a whole lot more than it did!
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They said it was pretty good in a crimpy wall sort of way.
Yeah, it was a bit :o :o. Think that's the biggest fall i've ever took. Too sudden to be scary, quite exciting really. I've kept the offending hold.
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Never mind the big fall - didn't you accuse Welford of overgrading just then?
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Its definitely covered by CROW act, I'm sure thats why Welford went there.
Park at the popular end car park and walk down the road to Hathersage go through a gate on the right, the track
takes you across the top of the crag.
The problem you mention is on an block with an obvious overhanging triangular face.
I guess at 7c you shouldn't be using the right arete too soon, some of the flakes look at bit snappy ?
Don't Badgers only come out at night, someone will have to ask Miles wasn't he raised by the
Badgers at cragx.
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you shouldn't be using the right arete at all, at least for the obvious line. it's good but very sharp. seem to remember reading that it was like the press, if this is correct you do reach the arete after a move and it's never 7c. the other way is tho, pain tolerance essential.
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we started in the centre at the base and climbed direct to the highest point of the boulder with crimpy sidepulls for the right hand. not bad problem. 7b+ish??
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Went here with the Huffdog at weekend, would be good if it wasn't for the arete. I climbed from the sitter into the arete (7bish?) cos it was the easiest line, huffy went a move higher then got the arete. What Si and 5c did seemed hard and no way 7b+ (welford gave it 7c+ after all). Probably worth checking out if you've ticked everyone thing you can do at other crags.
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There's also a couple of good roof problems on the far LHS I've only managed the LH one of the two
and about four good crimpy wall climbs on the face to the right.
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(http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/6682/honey2ax7.jpg)
horrible first move.
(http://img302.imageshack.us/img302/6805/honey1ui0.jpg)
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thats a nice arse
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(http://img126.imageshack.us/img126/9488/skeletorms3.jpg)
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I might be way off the mark here, but it looks like a pebble may have snapped off there at some point. Could that be the reason for the grading rollercoaster?
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Haha, Skelletor looks to be enjoying himself. Reminds me of this old chestnut...
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/normal_uptha.jpg)
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I might be way off the mark here, but it looks like a pebble may have snapped off there at some point. Could that be the reason for the grading rollercoaster?
Theres some scars on the rock where some other holds may have once lived. Maybe we were having a weak day! Probably quite likely for me
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I want to get bummed by he man not skeletor!
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Look out Doyle, don't pick up the orange!
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/123/329956111_c9195acc3b_o.jpg)
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:P
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I want to get bummed by he man not skeletor!
Merry Christmas :kiss2:
(http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/728/hemansingsja0.jpg)
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I've always wondered what he-mans cum face looked like.
I will wonder no more.
thanks huffy
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totally brilliant
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who wouldn't have a face like that hanging out the back of doyle?
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I want to get bummed by he man not skeletor!
Merry Christmas :kiss2:
(http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/728/hemansingsja0.jpg)
shit isn't that adam long bumming chris doyle?!
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And not for the first time either :)
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Ahem.
Had a go on this last night, its certainly harder than 7b+ if you don't use the aretes at all, the holds don't look to have changed from the above photos either. Reachy and one hold is very sharp.
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I have done the rough outline of a topo located here:
http://www.wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=66&climbing=rock+climbing
Any input to this topo would be appreciated.