UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: r-man on May 11, 2006, 01:44:54 pm
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So summer's upon us and everyone's bouldering at Rubitorneybrook. I love em lots, but I'd much rather go mid week when there aren't queues for problems (or at least, the queues are a little shorter...). So assuming I can't get away at the weekend, it would be good to boulder somewhere else - would be nice to play on new bits of rock as much as anything.
And there's a whole load of limestone in the peak, with lots of overhanging routes and things, so there must be some good problem starts, eliminate areas and traverses scattered around, even if they do require more than a 2min walk in.
What's out there and what's worth investigating?
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There are some old threads on this if you do a search.
Dog's Dinner buttress down cheedale is pretty good and nicely shaded.
Rheinstor is ok if you are after vertical pocket pulling in a pleasant setting.
Pleasley Vale is a great eliminate venue, near Mansfield (not really peak).
Roche Abbey is similar to Pleasley and has some classic independant lines.
Brassington area dolomite is ok for very easy stuff.
Then there's Toad Hall (or whatever it's called), a good looking partially developed steep buttress by the A6 west of Ashford in the water, a bit like Crag X but not as good, has access problems.
There's the roadside cave near the Horshoe Quarry parking spot, I remember polish Dave raving about some probs he did here back in the day, a handful of very steep hard probs.
Blackwell dale has a few existing problems, including a traverse (Griff's?) mentioned in an old OTE. There is stuff to do on various bits of rock down here including, Beginner's wall, the bit opposite Sean's roof, Sean's roof cave itself and probably the best of the lot a couple of caves directly above Sean's roof (it takes a bit of determination to get to them due to steep nettles, but it looks like it could be developed into a good highballing crag with the aid of a step ladder and the odd bit of sika).
For some proper esoterica try the cave behind Reynard's Arch in Dovedale, had a look last year, it looks pretty sweet, or the base of New Bridge butress in Matlock. I always thought Cave dale near Castleton might yeild some stuff, but it's ages since I had a look. I'm sure there are bits to develop down Chee and WCJ, but if they would be worth the big walk ins I don't know. The strange Red buttress on the opposite bank and west of Raven tor has potential, I had a look at this last year. Long walk round or wade to access.
That should keep you going for a bit! Let me know how you get on.
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Whereabouts is the lone pine boulder, near buxton? I've seen a picture of somebody on a problem on it somewhere ???
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A good place to start is the High over Buxton guide
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I always thought Cave dale near Castleton might yeild some stuff, but it's ages since I had a look.
i had a walk there a few weeks ago, kept my eye open but didn't see fuck all. And i'm pretty sure i saw everything.
I'm pretty sure there are nice new bouldering crags out there though with classics to do.
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Not much to add really, there's a dolomite limestone cave near RHS that could have about 10 probs in but needs major cleanage and not sure about access. I found another cave in Dovedale at Dovedale Castle, this would have an ace problem, maybe a classic font 8a, with a bit of sika, but it is a nightmare to get to - think river crossings and scrambling up near vertical scree paths - and would be a little highball to top out, with the aforementioned scree path beckoning a fall.
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I may have seen the crag near RHS. Is it very steep and crozzly, with bits of old farm junk under it? Near the road on the edge of Youlgreave? I think it's proper name is Nuda's Tartan crag and had some routes put up on the big bit at the back by Matt Szabo in the 80s. It did look to have some potential if the crozzly rock is cleanable.
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think that might have been the one that was mentioned to me jon.
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I may have seen the crag near RHS. Is it very steep and crozzly, with bits of old farm junk under it? Near the road on the edge of Youlgreave? I think it's proper name is Nuda's Tartan crag and had some routes put up on the big bit at the back by Matt Szabo in the 80s. It did look to have some potential if the crozzly rock is cleanable.
Seem to have missed this post but, yeah, sound like the same place.
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Forgot to add, cheers for all the pointers Bonjoy and co. I keep trying to get people interested. So far, no-one wants to go on:
- A trip to check out possible new bouldering venues
- An adventure!
- A treasure hunt
- A picnic somewhere unusual
- A night-time mission
- An exploration that might lead to a hidden galleon, possible via booby traps and a skeleton, at the end of which I promise to conceal some sort of riches in my marbles bag
But one of these days...
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I went on a mission to check some of bonjoys suggestions but stopped off at cragx and got distracted, however the cave (Tom's cave) near horseshoe is utter shite, don't bother stopping, its full of cans, big boulders and other miscellaneous crap.
Had a look at the location of toad hall as well, unfortunately its just off open access land so I don't know how access would work out.
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From here: http://www.dangeroussite.com/roche_climbing.htm
Other Climbing in the Area
There are buttresses across the valley but these tend to remain a little green and damp because of their NE facing aspect but may be worthy of exploration for the enthusiast. These are located above the water treatment works up the valley on the other side of the road from the Gypsy Lane buttress about 500m away. Also down the valley near the village of Stone there is a bridleway skirting the other side of the valley. Shadowing the bridleway is an amazing wave of wildly overhanging limestone. This needs cleaning up a bit and only really talented climbers need apply!
There is climbing at Anston Stones Wood near the village of South Anston (10 Kms S of Maltby) adjacent to a railway line near the A57 I've never really done a lot of climbing here and never found anyone climbing here to get more info off but have heard it mentioned, even in climbing magazines. If anyone has further info let me know!
Anyone know owt about these?
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- An exploration that might lead to a hidden galleon, possible via booby traps and a skeleton, at the end of which I promise to conceal some sort of riches in my marbles bag
I love that film! :thumbsup:
Isn't there supposed to be another tom's cave esque bouldering spot on windy ledge(eek) at stoney. I think the routes guide mentions it has several good problems and a one finger pull up.
edit: just checked the guide - "There is a long low level traverse from Circe to Windhover...The roof right of Our Father has a few hideous problems, including a nightmarish, tendon snapping one finger deadhang (or pull up)"
so there you go
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From here: http://www.dangeroussite.com/roche_climbing.htm
Other Climbing in the Area
There are buttresses across the valley but these tend to remain a little green and damp because of their NE facing aspect but may be worthy of exploration for the enthusiast. These are located above the water treatment works up the valley on the other side of the road from the Gypsy Lane buttress about 500m away. Also down the valley near the village of Stone there is a bridleway skirting the other side of the valley. Shadowing the bridleway is an amazing wave of wildly overhanging limestone. This needs cleaning up a bit and only really talented climbers need apply!
There is climbing at Anston Stones Wood near the village of South Anston (10 Kms S of Maltby) adjacent to a railway line near the A57 I've never really done a lot of climbing here and never found anyone climbing here to get more info off but have heard it mentioned, even in climbing magazines. If anyone has further info let me know!
Anyone know owt about these?
the big wave of rock is crag david.
On the subject of the bouldering on windy ledge, don't bothere theres nothing really. i walked up there this spring and found nowt worth doing. the old stoney guide makes out like theres a bouldering wall between Choss and Scoop wall but its bollocks. the roof right of our father is downright unpleasant.
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Not much to add really, there's a dolomite limestone cave near RHS that could have about 10 probs in but needs major cleanage and not sure about access. I found another cave in Dovedale at Dovedale Castle, this would have an ace problem, maybe a classic font 8a, with a bit of sika, but it is a nightmare to get to - think river crossings and scrambling up near vertical scree paths - and would be a little highball to top out, with the aforementioned scree path beckoning a fall.
Told Iain Farrar about this place as I know how he loves obscure roof probs. He went down last weekend and climbed the obvious long roof/prow prob on the left buttress. Reckoned the rock on that bit was good and took little cleaning and that the prob is excellent, about 7b/7b+. He finished using lip holds, but a finish staying under the roof would probably bump it up to 7c. On closer inspection the crag is actually not dolomitic limestone, but infact one huge chunk of tufa! A contender for most esoteric (but still good) problems on peak limestone I reckon.
Will try and get a name and photo.
Iain then got in his car and set off to have a look at the cave behind Reynard's Arch. Unfortunately he never got there, as a wheel fell off his car!!
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Cool, that line was the obvious one.
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Borrowed an old peak limestone guide from someone and there's mention of three problems on a small concrete bunker at Horseshoe Quarry:
"Just after the fork in the track and slightly right of the left hand fork is a small concrete bunker. This gives three surprisingly good problems. From left to right: The Arete, 6c, The Rib, 6b, and The Wall Between, 6b."
Anyone ever tried these?
Is this concrete bunker still there, and if so, how surprisingly good are the problems?
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Is this concrete bunker still there, and if so, how surprisingly good are the problems?
yes the bunkers still there and no the problems are not suprisingly good
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Like FB says
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Maybe someone could clarify what we saw recently in the Peak. We were walking towards Stoney Middleton from a campsite a few miles back up the road towards Hathersage. There was a cave on the left side of the road and a large layby on the opposite side. There were some vague remnants of chalk on some holds and there was a big blankish roof. Oh yeah, also on the floor was a syringe!? Not quite sure that it's the most obvious place for a junkie to hang out but anyhow...
Sorry to be so vague as usual
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ins that the cave that plish dave done some stuff in? its been mentioned on here somewhere. near whorseshit quarry?
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Saw the mention of some Polish Dave territory. I've absolutely no idea what the area and cave are called, but I'd be keen to see any photos of anyone who might have taken some there. On the subject of Polish Dave, is this the same PD that lived and studied in Leeds Uni? I think Pemb used to climb a bit with him and heard that he was an uber strong man.
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I visited the large cave behind the Wetton Mill Teashop a couple of weeks ago. Very limited potential but a nice traverse and maybe a couple of worthwhile up problems. Not really worth a specific trip tho
(http://photos-614.ak.facebook.com/ip005/v17/186/124/197805812/n197805812_31114614_3239.jpg)
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What's with the over the shoulder chalkbag ? :lol:
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ins that the cave that plish dave done some stuff in? its been mentioned on here somewhere. near whorseshit quarry?
if thats the one near the road dont even bother... utter shite.
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i165/bennp2000/DSCF0563.jpg)
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Pretty sure that's the one I spotted a while back. Had a lovely hypodermic syringe in there and other assorted shite. And yeah as you say Paul, it's utter balls.
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Is that the one just off the road up the hill from Stoney Middleton? Looks familiar! :-\
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yup.
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I visited the large cave behind the Wetton Mill Teashop a couple of weeks ago. Very limited potential but a nice traverse and maybe a couple of worthwhile up problems. Not really worth a specific trip tho
Couple more shots...
(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/trav%202%20edit.jpg)
(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/w%20trav%20edit%203.jpg)
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How hard is the trav? Looks like a fair size cave, why so little potential, blankness, looseness?
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Traverse is a pumpy 7a/7a+, no hard moves, just steep.
Most of the problems would go up through the traverse line - maybe 5 problems? Not loads to do, but they could be ok. That featured thing at the back is quite funky, and whatever problems climb it would be lots of fun. Probably very hard though.
The amount of climbable rock is unfortunately quite small given the size of the cave. The roof is open so it's reasonably light, but although the rock seems to stay quite dry, the ground is a bit of a quagmire after rain.
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Looks quite large on this pic I found
(http://www.megalithic.org.uk/megp/gallery/gallery/England/staffordshire/XWettonMillCave03.jpg)
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Is that a child or a shrunken humanoid? Because you can reach the traverse from standing.
Anyway, the cave is quite large, but there's nothing worth climbing behind the camera man. The traverse starts on jugs in the corner (behind the creature in your the pic) and moves right along an obvious line. The up problems would be sit starts into this line (not really worth climbing above this - looks a bit chossy).
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(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i165/bennp2000/DSCF0563.jpg)
I met Polish Dave at the Cemetery boulder today. Asked him about this cave and he said he and Kristian Clemmow did the lip traverse a while back. Dave reckoned the climbing was really good - steep with a dynamic finish, at around 7b/7c. They never climbed the line through the roof, this is apparently really hard. He was disappointed to hear no one climbs there anymore - he thought the problem had great moves.
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Some pics of Neil Travers on some esoteric lime problems, and mention of a new secret location
(http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/imgs/2651i1948v1.jpg)
Neil's Wall - 7c+
(http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/imgs/2652i1951.jpg)
Swing Thing - 7b
I do have a limestone wall I’m about to write up which has one of the best 7c+ problems in the peak on it
List of FAs
Boulder probs : Little rascal sit start 8a Burbage South, In Bulk 8a+ Crag X, Spider Man 7c+ Crag X, Neil’s wall 7c+ Beginners wall. Swing Time 7b, Man of Steel 7c, Neil’s Wall 7c+, Neil’s Wall sit start 8a+
More here
http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/Clogg/RedChili/NeilTravers/
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Not so secret :lol:
Neil on Neils Wall 7c+ another new problem...at his secret spot....Click to enlarge
First ascents :
Trad : Turtle Power E6 6c Stanage (unrepeated?), Flabby Crack E6 6c, Hen Cloud, Back in the YMCA E5 6c Stanage.
Boulder probs : Little rascal sit start 8a Burbage South, In Bulk 8a+ Crag X, Spider Man 7c+ Crag X, Neil’s wall 7c+ Beginners wall. Swing Time 7b, Man of Steel 7c, Neil’s Wall 7c+, Neil’s Wall sit start 8a+
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Yeah, the article is a little confusing (photo caption says Neils wall is at the secret spot), hence I edited my post, but Beginner's wall doesn't seem to be the secret spot - look at the FA list, the secret spot is perhaps "Crag X"?
Also, on the FA list there are two Neil's walls listed...
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You mean In Bulk and Spiderman? Could be names of variations at the usual crag x, especially given that they sound like possible wordplays on Superman and the Hulk :shrug:
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Yeah, maybe. It's all a little odd.
It would be a strange if the article talked about a secret spot then revealed it at the end. But then there are a fair amount of inconsistencies, so who knows...
Are these problems on Beginner's Wall? Swing Time 7b, Man of Steel 7c, Neil’s Wall 7c+, Neil’s Wall sit start 8a+
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Yes
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Come on r-man catch up, this has already been reported in the mags and discussed on here before.
I've been saying it for a while now, but I'll say it again: what the Peak needs is a bouldering news website.
Shame you're disapearing on holiday Bonjoy. Maybe those Beardown boys could do the deed? Cofe, Dave, Kim are you listening? How about it?
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Yeah, I've read about the beginners wall stuff, was just confused by an article that mentioned beginners wall as well as a secret spot.
You're right though. And even better than just a news site, a yorkshiregrit/bleau.info style website would be excellent, if anyone has the time and skills.
Perhaps some sort of wiki? Where anyone can make changes, and all the site administrator has to do is approve them?
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I agree about the interactive voting/comment thing. I used to be sceptical about the value of this, but I've come to realise that it is a good thing (if occasionally abused). I've got plans to upgrade the NWB site with some interactive features, just haven't had time to do it yet. Hopefully I'll get it sorted in the next few months.
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I love the Bleau/Yorkshiregrit thing of having user edited pages on specific problems. It'd be great to see something like this for the peak.
How about you starting one r-man? You have some experience making websites and a penchant for listing.
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Maybe, maybe. I'd want to make a proper job of it, and at the moment I just don't have time. Maybe later this winter though. Would be a great resource, and it's definitely crying out to be done.
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I've written those probs on Beginners wall up for Climb a couple of months ago, so not that secret. Neil's Wall looks quite good though, but not tried it yet.
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I love the Bleau/Yorkshiregrit thing of having user edited pages on specific problems. It'd be great to see something like this for the peak.
It's loco that there currently isn't such a facility. What with Sheffield being home of The Designers Republic, and a design capital in itself, there has to be some willing soul somewhere? Surely Sheffield is brimming with web design-boulderers!?
Maybe a peak bouldering site fund similar to the rebolting one could take place? Raise the funds to have a booming site designed and then elect a small-scale crew of moderators. I'm no Peak local, but I'd be willing to throw some money in the direction of such a cause.
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I don't think money is the stalling point with the Peak bouldering website. As with most things in life it is available time. A site like the one that is being proposed would require a significant chunk of time to set up and maintain. It could be done by a team of people sharing the work load (although inevitably that would end up landing on one or two individuals, such is human nature), or by one or possibly two super keen people (one covering the east side, one covering the west).
I think it would be quite likely that advertising revenue could be attracted, after all it would almost certainly have big traffic figures (even a small site like NWB gets 7-8k of unique sessions per month). That flow of money could pay for a site editor's time. Although it might be better to keep it independant and invite donations as UKB has done.
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Aye, either way it would be a shame not to see something like this developed in the near future. It's at times like this, I feel really satisfied to see the DIY ethos of the bouldering fraternity coming forth. Personally, I'd be happy to assist as part of a project to do this, but like everyone, am unable to fully commit to precise deadlines. Ideally what's needed I suppose, is for one totally commited individual to step forward and declare their willingness to manage a group of people. Practically, I have no idea.
Interesting to see what comes of this.
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Shame you're disapearing on holiday Bonjoy. Maybe those Beardown boys could do the deed? Cofe, Dave, Kim are you listening? How about it?
I think we can nip that suggestion in the mofo-ing bud.
The problem with the peak is its got so much good climbing to be had that no-one has got any time to be sat writing a website about it. Its all very well developing a website to kill some time if you're stuck up in somewhere like yorkshire or the lakes, but it ain't on my to-do list. ;)
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Dave, a quick glance at your 8-thousand-odd post tally tells me that you've got a lot of spare time on your hands (or at least you used to have in your old job). ;)
Of course it's your choice Dave, and if you don't want to dirty your hands on such a winning project, I'm sure Cofe will happily take the glory. I expect soon enough he'll be gliding round town in a chauffeur driven cadillac, sipping champagne and stopping to sign peakbouldering.com logoed t-shirts thrust towards him by possies of glamorous young bouldering ladies.
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all this talk of 'the man'.
it would be a very big job but i reckon it will happen at some point.
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back to different venues. Anyone looked down Anston way? then there's Clowne crags, Markland Grips and cave, Hollinhill Grips. Anything at Creswell crags? How about Whaley Rock, Langwith cave, Ash tree cave or Thorpe common?
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Never heard of any of those except for Cresswell crags. What/where are they? Are they climbed on? You have any pics?
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I'm trying to find out some more. No doubt most of them are not worth bothering with, but you never know. They all seem to be part of the same formation of limestone which makes Roche Abbey and Pleasley
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Hi Guys,
Creswell Crags is a prehistoric Cave settlement area with lots of "Rock Art" so they say it is not recommended you climb here. A pity
As for the "Grips" looked round here earlier this year most is on private land and what is left is covered in huge amounts of ivy. 1 pretty good looking boulder though. Needs cleaning.
Anston- This area has been developed quite extensively now but the folks who have been there are allowed to do so with the blessings of the Rangers. This is a SSSI site with rock art and should only be accessed with the consent of the rangers or speak to one of the few folks who know about the area and the restrictions. Again very sensitive area please consult before going.
As for the rest of the places please if you visit let us know about the state of play.
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Wow, you learn something everyday. The only rock art I knew about in the peak was the carved spirals/ cup-marks on grit.
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Dave, a quick glance at your 8-thousand-odd post tally tells me that you've got a lot of spare time on your hands (or at least you used to have in your old job). ;)
you've hit the nail right between the eyes there sunshine.
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Wow, you learn something everyday. The only rock art I knew about in the peak was the carved spirals/ cup-marks on grit.
It's actually a fair way east of the peak (if you don't already know).
In 2003, engravings were found on the walls and roofs of some of the caves - the only known examples of Palaeolithic cave art in Britain. Their subject matter is representations of animals including bison and several different bird species. The engravers seem to have made use of the naturally uneven cave surface in their carvings and it is likely that they relied on the early morning sunlight entering the caves to illuminate the art. Thin layers of calcium carbonate flowstone overlaying some of the engravings were dated using the uranium-series disequilibrium method, which showed the oldest of these flowstones to have formed 12,800 years ago. This provides a minimum age for the underlying engraving. The scientists and archaeologists concluded it was most likely the engravings were contemporary with evidence for occupation at the site during the late glacial interstadial at around 13,000-15,000 years ago.
From wiki page http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creswell_Crags
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Cheers, BJ, my fingers had already done the googling though...
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(http://vtia321.2.jpg)
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I'm currently training in Buxton School and stopped off today at a limestone craglet right next to the A6. Had remnants of chalk on it plus glued holds ,a crag x style ladder and some good looking up problems and a hard traverse. It looked like a poorer quality crag X. Is this Toad Hall?
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I believe it is...
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Yes it is, but wer'e supposed to be keeping away until Simon Jaques sorts out the access with the landowner.
Do a search on this board for more info.
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cheers.I'll steer clear (not that it's anywhere near in condition)
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....
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keep us posted bonjoy, i've serious unfinished business at that place!!
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I don't know if its already been covered in this thread, but has anyone checked out the crag with what looks like a large roof situated above beginners wall? Looked liked it had some potential for two or three bolt lines on it, although perhaps it was a lot smaller than it looked from the path leading up to beginners wall.
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I think people have looked at it and it might need 'some' glue to make it decent. At the start of the summer I tried to put together a list/topo for this kind of thing (Esoteric Limestone) but got really disheartened and lost all motivation after visiting a few venues that I was told had potential to find out they were utter crap...The best possible venue was toad hall which as previously mentioned has current access issues.
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I don't know if its already been covered in this thread, but has anyone checked out the crag with what looks like a large roof situated above beginners wall? Looked liked it had some potential for two or three bolt lines on it, although perhaps it was a lot smaller than it looked from the path leading up to beginners wall.
if you mean the thing that's almost directly above sean's roof, bit further along the road from beginners, then yes i went up there this summer. my opinion was it looked alright, the routes would probably need a bolt or two because the landing rolls away just when you need them. that main problem was getting up there involved wearing a thick pair of trousers and bushwacking through knee high sticking-buds and nettles up a steep slope to get there - it was a fucking mission, but would calm down with regular use. didn't climb owt there, but did some excellent new stuff elsewhere in that valley.
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oh well, not quite the verdonesque crag that i had formed in my mind.
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That reminds me. Last week I recieved a tender document on my desk for rock stabilisation work to Toad Hall!! Called Shacklow Wood in the doc, but it's definately the same thing. Not sure what if any implications this might have on the access situation. Passed the tender on to the guy who deals with rock work, but will try to get it back for a proper look.
Maybe the'll finish the hold sika job, not that the place is that loose
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....
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Are you sure this is the same crag ?
If it is related to the access issue it seems a lot of effort and cost
to allow a few people to climb.
Sounds like a sledgehammer to crack a nut.
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I think the system clock has gone a bit screwy
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It's the same crag, the documentation came with photographs.
The works are unrelated to the access issue. The Highways Agency are commisioning the work I think as part of road maintenance plan.
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Toad Hall, the story so far:
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s170/fatdoc_album/family2002031.jpg)
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s170/fatdoc_album/family2002037.jpg)
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s170/fatdoc_album/family2002034.jpg)
The first pic shows the fear of FBSF as he looks down at the huge volume of stting sika and reralises it's not all gonna be put on the crag !! next 2 are of a a font 6c (ish) sitter on the Right hand side.... quite good actually..
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What's the rock quality like at Toad Hall? Looks a bit like some of the chossy rock underneath the bridge at Devils Gorge.
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put it this way,
the crag is under construction.
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Had a look at the Tufa cave in Alport today. Was very impressed with the rock and problems, in particular the long roof/lip on the LH buttress. Felt 7b ish:
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/179/475665214_f72c52f406.jpg?v=0)
RH buttress 6c:
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/224/475665218_8c7197b7f0.jpg?v=0)
Looked like a bit of scope for more problems on the RH buttress (slightly damp today), and a very hard line direct through the LH roof.
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Wow, that's been cleaned up a bit since I was there.
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Had a look at the Tufa cave in Alport today. Was very impressed with the rock and problems, in particular the long roof/lip on the LH buttress. Felt 7b ish:
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/179/475665214_f72c52f406.jpg?v=0)
Yeah, that's what Iain reckoned. He also said you could do a good harder version sticking to holds under the roof. Don't think he ever thought of a name. BTW, the crag is called Nuda's Tartan according to one of the old Peak Supplements.
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Contender for best crag name?
Any idea where it comes from? Surely nothing to do with:
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/40/Zooplankton2_300.jpg/800px-Zooplankton2_300.jpg)
How big is the crag, by the way? It's hard to tell from the pics.
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I tried the line straight through the roof, but the pockets were pretty sharp, and the tree unfortunatly gets in the way of a big swing. Good line though.
As for the size, the arete is around 15 moves long, and the wooden frame in the background is about 6ft high - so it's a decent sized cave.
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It's only an Elder tree (common and fast growing) and as evidenced at Raventor will tollerate a good deal of pruning and still grow back.
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I met Polish Dave at the Cemetery boulder today. Asked him about this cave and he said he and Kristian Clemmow did the lip traverse a while back. Dave reckoned the climbing was really good - steep with a dynamic finish, at around 7b/7c. They never climbed the line through the roof, this is apparently really hard. He was disappointed to hear no one climbs there anymore - he thought the problem had great moves.
Wad point for whoever has cleaned this cave up. It looks much better now. The lip traverse thingy was excellent (as far as peak limestone goes), and although I didn't do it, 7b+/7c felt about right. The project line looks just as good, and 8bish hard. Anyone know what other stuff has been climbed here?
Am psyched to return for the traverse when I'm less full of cake. I'll post up some pics in a bit that I took which make it look less shit than the one that is already up here.
N.B. Bradwell dale is shit for bouldering, as is Windy Knoll Cave.
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I always thought that despite what some folks say that cave looked quite good, shame about the proximity to the busy road.
Other than dave i've not heard of others climbing there.
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It's not so bad with the leaves out on the trees - in the odd 10 sec gap between lorries you can almost forget that you are in probably the least pleasant valley in the peak.
Whoever left their Lapis brush there - I now have it. You might get it back if you ask nicely.
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Could have been Polish Dave who cleaned it up - he's been working the project recently and can apparently do all the moves. He gave my friend the tour, and my friend came back raving about the place. I'm keen to go and check it out as soon as I've stopped limping.
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where is the tufa cave in Alport ?
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just as you enter the village on the main road (when coming from the Stanton side), it is visible in the trees to the right. A tiny road branches right which runs by the rocks.
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(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/179/491053683_0645e7743d.jpg?v=0)
The lip traverse.
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/194/491053695_199bd7afef.jpg?v=0)
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Dave gave me a name the other day -
Hannibal - 7c+ - The right to left lip traverse. Dave started it on jugs to the far right of the crag, and finished at the tree on the wall above. It can also be started from a sitstart below the lip, and is a little easier that way. I think this was done in 1999, or thereabouts.
I've played on this traverse, and it's excellent. Shouldery moves on funky holds to get established on the lip, then big dynamic moves on fingerjugs to finish. Must be one of the best problems on lime.
I'll post some pics and videos when Dave does the project through the roof - hopefully today, he's getting really close. It's one of the most impressive bits of climbing I've witnessed. Really crazy moves.
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Hannibal - 7c+ - The right to left lip traverse. Dave started it on jugs to the far right of the crag, and finished at the tree on the wall above. It can also be started from a sitstart below the lip, and is a little easier that way. I think this was done in 1999, or thereabouts.
IMO the SS under the lip looks/felt a little more logical, but that might be just me.
I've played on this traverse, and it's excellent. Shouldery moves on funky holds to get established on the lip, then big dynamic moves on fingerjugs to finish. Must be one of the best problems on lime.
Agreed. The roll over press move to the positive crimp is really good.
I'll post some pics and videos when Dave does the project through the roof - hopefully today, he's getting really close. It's one of the most impressive bits of climbing I've witnessed. Really crazy moves.
I'm excited ::)
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ru on the lip trav:
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/climbing/Ru_StoneyCave.jpg?t=1179050441)
scouse appears to be thinking "ooh goody gumdrops"
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Nice shot.
How hard did you guys think it was? We were guessing 7b+/7c.
Did anyone try Andronicus?
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Look at the size difference between Ru and Dave. It looks like either Ru is further away than he appears or Dave has been photoshopped on. Amazingly its neither.
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"These cows are toy cows, those cows are far away"
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How hard did you guys think it was? We were guessing 7b+/7c.
I reckon 7C, has dave renamed it as when talking about it a while ago he gave it a name that I couldn't pronounce and it wasn't H-A-N...
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scouse appears to be thinking "ooh goody gumdrops"
:)
Was really psyched for this problem but tired after the tor. Very keen to get back on it for the link, brilliant moves as r-man says.
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Will it stay dry even in these inclement times?
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was dry after torrential rain yesterday but very humid so it got greasy real quick. Has do use muchos chalk and brushing.
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There were 7 people in Dave's cave today. Dave was overjoyed. ;D
Paul, I don't know anything about previous names, but Hannibal is what Dave has settled on. I thought he was calling it Honey Buns at first, until we started talking about elephants and alps...
Somebody's Fool - despite torrential rain it was all dry today. A little greasy, but fine with brushing.
In other news, Dave pulled the solitary crimp off the line from the left wall leading into Andronicus. His eyes lit up when he realised it would now involve muchos underclinging, squeezing and general hardness. Watch this space...
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it would now involve muchos underclinging, squeezing and general hardness. Watch this space...
Sounds like he'll have to refer to The Joy of Sex for beta.
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was driving past the cave to go to the tor last sunday with nigella and cowbowhat. from a distance you could see 2 people lurking with intent. conversation went something like "who do you reckon that is" "bet it's polish dave, no-one else would go there". it was polish dave
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There were 7 people in Dave's cave today.
sorry to piss on anyones bonfire here but is this cave not actually called "Tom's Cave"? I don't know where i've got this from, but i have a deffinite memory of this being refered to as toms cave for years. before anyone says "no toms cave is at stoney, where Power Allowance is" then no, thats Tom's Roof, this is different. Question?
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or nominate.
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Yes, I remember someone saying that. But it just confuses the hell out of people, and results in...
before anyone says "no toms cave is at stoney, where Power Allowance is" then no, thats Tom's Roof.
...everytime you try and mention it. Dave's cave is just much easier.
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but wrong. i prefer "right to left arse-dragging" than jerry's traverse but i don't try and rename it
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Wrong, how so? There are plenty of examples of places being renamed. Constantinople anyone?
Not that I really care. I have no great renaming mission.
What's the history behind the name of Tom's Cave anyone? Surely Tom never went there? Or are there some long forgotten routes around the fringes? Is it even possible that the name itself arose out of confusion as to the whereabouts of Tom's Roof?
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if we're going down this route, then how about renaming the Tor so people don't get confused with ravenstor in dovedale? ::)
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constantinopole, that's a very big name
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Wrong, how so? There are plenty of examples of places being renamed. Constantinople anyone?
Not that I really care. I have no great renaming mission.
What's the history behind the name of Tom's Cave anyone? Surely Tom never went there? Or are there some long forgotten routes around the fringes? Is it even possible that the name itself arose out of confusion as to the whereabouts of Tom's Roof?
of course mr procter went there.he went every where in the dale.i also remember pod having a thing for climbing there due to it being one of the few places that stays dry.
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if we're going down this route, then how about renaming the Tor so people don't get confused with ravenstor in dovedale? ::)
What, am I supposed to yell out in horror at this suggestion?
:lol:
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Some pics from Nuda's Tartan yesterday. Worth a visit.
Lovejoy on the start to the traverse.
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/alport-2.jpg)
Dopefield powering through the crux
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/alport-4.jpg)
The strength-sapping home straight
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/alport-1.jpg)
Dave 'Shaq' Parry on Farrar's roof prob]
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/alport-3.jpg)
makes a nice afternoon with a visit to Rheinstor.
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probably not worth the visit unless you've got the requisite 2 flashguns at your disposal though. and boy is that crag rough on the hands.
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lovejoy on the superindirect. i might add with only one flashgun. however two would have been a real boon.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/climbing/JF_Alport1.jpg?t=1180902420)
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for what its worth heres mine. unfortunatley i had the camera set to "wack".
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/Peak/lovejoynudas.jpg)
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Wheres this place guys? What range of problems are there? The photos look good!
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On the right, near the road as you approach Youlgreave from the east. Give me a ring if you are keen to head down this week, I'm a man of leisure now so can get out anytime.
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sorry to piss on anyones bonfire here but is this cave not actually called "Tom's Cave"? I don't know where i've got this from, but i have a deffinite memory of this being refered to as toms cave for years. before anyone says "no toms cave is at stoney, where Power Allowance is" then no, thats Tom's Roof, this is different. Question?
It is "Tom's Cave" and has been called that for decades.
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Any chance you could put up a more detailed description and add a few comments about the lines grades etc. Thanks.
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sorry to piss on anyones bonfire here but is this cave not actually called "Tom's Cave"? I don't know where i've got this from, but i have a deffinite memory of this being refered to as toms cave for years. before anyone says "no toms cave is at stoney, where Power Allowance is" then no, thats Tom's Roof, this is different. Question?
It is "Tom's Cave" and has been called that for decades.
I'm really not sure why this venue is receiving as much attention as it is. Its an absolute mess.
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unfortunatley i had the camera set to "wack"
Known to most folk as 'jpg'. Why oh why?
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I'm really not sure why this venue is receiving as much attention as it is. Its an absolute mess.
Because the two problems there are first class. Unusual gymnastic climbing on unusual holds.
I'm not sure what you mean by mess - there isn't any rubbish and the rock is clean. Granted it's quite dark, and it's next to a busy road, but how is it a mess?
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Last time i visited there were loads of rusty old cans, big blocks and crips packets, one of the larger blocks even had tissue paper coming from underneath it (I didn't decide to investigate further). I guess dave could have done some cleening since then.
The problems there and the rock quality pale into absoloute insignificance compared to the likes of the crag with no name and Kudos wall.
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i think the give away was when you said "last time i visited". Dave has put a lot of effort into this cave and it is now clean and has 2 extremely good hard problems.
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the lines are pretty impressive and the lip trav thing should become a classic.
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The rock quality? What's wrong with the rock quality? ??? Anyway, half of Kudos has been glued on. It's more solid than that.
Having seen Andronicus climbed, and either seen people climb, or seen videos of the hard stuff at Rubicon or the other place, Andronicus is the one that looks the most impressive to me.
Hannibal is certainly as good as anything else at that grade.
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Dave has put a lot of effort into this cave and it is now clean and has 2 extremely good hard problems.
Fair enough.
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unfortunatley i had the camera set to "wack"
Known to most folk as 'jpg'. Why oh why?
don't worry there were some shit raw files aswell. and contrary to popular belief if the photo is shit to start with you can't rescue it with raw. "you can't pollish a turd" etc.
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Actually you can. You could have rescued that one. And look at what Polish Dave did to Tom's cave. They don't call him Polish for nothing.
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i could have butchered the fuck out of it, but it would have still been shit, just shit with different white balance and contrast. you can't alter the rear curtain, iso or flash after the event.
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strange that the phrase "you can't polish a turd" should be used in a thread about tom's cave
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Anybody have any idea what the conditions are like at Nuda's Tartan? Does it get wet in the rain, does it seep, how long will it take to dry off?
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Was there last month whilst it was raining heavily and although the left hand bit was wet, the right hand side stayed dry under the double roof. Not sure about seepage?
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it does have a bit of an undergrowth toupee which might lend itself to run off. hard to say.
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More esoterica that we discovered a few weeks ago (after glimpsing another climber through the trees). Carry on past Raven Tor and there's a bridge on the right. Cross the bridge and walk over to the obvious wall on the right. Looks like trees have recently been felled here - so perhaps it was hidden in the past?
Rock gets chossy higher up, so probably not much scope for routes (you never know, I could be wrong). The bouldering is all quite high, and the finishing break is a bit mucky. We did all the obvious problems - the best is probably the slight groove left of centre, with some snatchy moves. Around the ft6c grade.
There is some potential for a couple of harder things - the blank line left of the groove maybe, or perhaps a traverse, but it would all need a bit of cleaning. The left wall also has some very hard looking lines, but the some of rock is a bit suspect, and the landing gets dodgy.
(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/hidden%20tor%202.jpg)
(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/hidden%20tor.jpg)
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Anyone know anything about this?
Tarantula - V10
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=AdB-hFglu8E&mode=related&search=
and this
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Ozp_4jSOI6U&mode=user&search=
How do they relate to the other problems at Nuda's Tartan, especially the V10 - is this a low start to the 7b or something?
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As far as I understand it "tarantula" is what Ian Farrar did at v8.
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the v10 just looks like a bad sequence on the v8.
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(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/hidden%20tor%202.jpg)
I think there are access problems for all of the buttresses on the opposite side from Raven Tor. I have been asked to leave there in the past (about 5 years ago) from a different buttress to this one. However, I do know the person who is responsible for the management of the river banks along the dale so I'll ask him. Might be worth staying away till we know for definite.
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Not bad effort , have been down alport a few times .
Have done the lip traverse sticking more religiously to the lip not going under the roof , felt more natural this way - 7b V8 is about right.
Did three more problems in this area:
The direct roof problem - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdB-hFglu8E
not shure whether this is the same line as u guys followed or wheter it is a FA or not only just found the thread.
The problem i did Submission V5 which cuts through the roof to the jugs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ozp_4jSOI6U
and an easy V3 on the edge of the roof.
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The direct roof problem - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdB-hFglu8E
not shure whether this is the same line as u guys followed or wheter it is a FA or not only just found the thread.
having watched that video again this V10 looks very similar to the sequence lovejoy used on the V8 lip traverse.
Theres also an Iain Farrar-Monch problem coming out from the back chimney of the roof (i.e. about a meter or so right of the guy in that vid, the top right of the photo below) and heading towards the lip where the "V10" meets the lip. not sure what grade this is but strong lass posted this photo of us trying it. seems a pretty obvious line, logical start etc.
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/alport-3.jpg)
I think the problem with this roof is that there are holds all over it, with many similar and interchangable problems available, the only limit being the pain tolerance of the climber, and how dry it is. Would be a ballache to write a proper guide here since half a dozen groups of climbers could visit and each end up claimbing a totally different bunch of "obvious" lines all on top of each other.
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The direct roof problem - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdB-hFglu8E
not shure whether this is the same line as u guys followed or wheter it is a FA or not only just found the thread.
having watched that video again this V10 looks very similar to the sequence lovejoy used on the V8 lip traverse.
i'm not convinced word. looks much more like pharoah monch's problem. lovejoy used pretty much same sequence as us on v8 apart from a slightly different start.
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Would be handy to have a chat with the relevant climbing parties in question sort out lines and problems. Will be down at the venue at the weekend, sat and sun !
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Ok, the one claimed as Tarantula is what Iain did and gave 7b+/7c. The way I was trying it was slightly different to the way Iain and the chap in the vid did it, but seems in the same ballpark, more a diffence in sequence than a diffent prob.
The lip trav can be started a couple of ways but is 7b either way (can't recall off the top of my head if the FA of this is Iain's or Dan's, but i'm sure it will be in this or another thread), either way I think it's worth topping out at the end rather than dropping off at the jug. The last couple of moves are good, not very scary and no pushover when you are pumped, ie part of the natural line.
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I went here today and did a problem starting bridging up the back (right of the V5 in one of those videos) and crossing the roof from undercut at the back, a slot and a pinch in the roof to the jug pocket at the lip (then finished as for the 7b traverse cos above was minging wet). Probably in the 7a+/7b ballpark, it could be new, so don't be shy if anyones done it before. nice problem, worth doing along with the traverse. you could also do it spanning straight from back to lip, but i think you'd hit the tree when taking the swing.
Here is a quick photo - you'd never know i used flash on that one. subtle.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/Dave/Peak/dpalportroof.jpg)
The V5 those guys have done in that vid is also very good. pocket a bit painful though. also the problems on the RH section seem good although most holds were sopping today. would be great in a summer heatwave i recon.
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What do you wash your tee shirts in Dave - Daz?
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I don't know anyone called Daz.
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What about Darren Martin - you must know him? he is one of the greatest rock climbers of all time?
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I don't know darren, and don't call me martin, ben. Shirley you can't be serious?
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I'm not falling for it Shirley, so ends our conversation.
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i'm increasingly of the opinion that red t shirts are not that great for climbing photos.
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Blue or yellow for limestone. Red for cloudy days in font. :read:
Es la ley!
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i'm increasingly of the opinion that red t shirts are not that great for climbing photos.
I agree. try telling that to the banks though. i only wore that one cos i was out on me own.
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to attract attention/discourage liaison should any passing vagrant try to take advantage of you?
i like a good strong green in font. and not the kind that causes problems at customs.
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i'm increasingly of the opinion that red t shirts are not that great for climbing photos.
I agree. try telling that to the banks though.
Outrageous!
What do you two know about photography anyway?
I only wear red because:
a) they are the only bright tops I own,
b) red goes nicely with my yellow and brown velour three quarter length pyjama trousers,
c) I don't have a range of pastel knitwear like you pansies.
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i'm increasingly of the opinion that red t shirts are not that great for climbing photos.
I agree. try telling that to the banks though.
c) I don't have a range of pastel knitwear like you pansies.
his blood is boiling. i'm pretty low on stock at the moment word since i shrunk my pink sweater. which reminds me, i have a pink glove for sale should anyone with only 4 digits on one hand be interested...
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I only wear red because:
a) they are the only bright tops I own,
thats nonce sense. If you were serious about developing a strong look you could cut the sleeves off the "boulder for fun" sweatshirt. Instant sweatshirt vest. like a north-east version of Joel off Neighbours circa 1999. "throw a fishie on a dishie on the barbie our Bruce man pet".
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I only wear red because:
a) they are the only bright tops I own,
thats nonce sense. If you were serious about developing a strong look you could cut the sleeves off the "boulder for fun" sweatshirt.
and just wear the sleeves. now that would be a strong look, like the man who's just lost his wedding ring in a vat of blue paint while wearing latex gloves.
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Another new route has just been completed at Nuda Tartan or Alport crag ! This is the 12th and hardest problem now climbed on the right hand cave area. Climbed over the weekend sheltered from the rain that washed out most other climbers in the peak.
Stumped graded 7c+ can be seen in this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHMmhdDYviU
Any questions , fire away .
Topos of the two caves are also on the way !
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waddage, how the hell do you see a sequence like that?????
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Insane , i no ! the vid is of my mate mark . Its gonna be of the of the peaks classic wierd problems !
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A photo of the newly climbed Nuda's Tartan trav, as yet unamed. Start up the easy problem on the left of the steep area (in background). From the jugs, traverse left to the far left arete and rock onto the slab to finish. About ft7A. Also good in reverse (finishing up the high line of jugs). Footledges not used.
Dave also extended the right to left, starting deep in the first cave on a large sidepull. Spurning the footledge leads to a double kneebar exit, then up the easy problem and finish the trav. Adds a grade.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1360/875071695_a21f414ec1.jpg?v=0)
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Is that photo from late yesterday? If so, how dry was it? When we left (late afternoon) it was getting damper and damper. It seems like it's going to be a hard place to predict conditions.
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Yes, yesterday afternoon/evening. Exterior holds were all dry, but some of the deep undercuts/jams and holds in the cave were damp.
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http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=131 (http://www.moonclimbing.com/VideoDetail.aspx?ID=131)
Anyone know where this is?
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Yes indeed, that being my problem n'all. I'll post up a topo soon. I have one more thing I want to do there first, but it's been wet for the last month. Annoying as it was dry the first half of the year.
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Cool cheeers
I looked a while ago at that vid and I could have sworn that previously it said that it was near worksop!!
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Does anyone have a copy of this topo http://www.dangeroussite.com/roche_climbing.htm? (http://www.dangeroussite.com/roche_climbing.htm?) The link no longer works.
cheers.