UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Bonjoy on April 25, 2006, 03:59:07 pm
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I'm posting this for Andy as he's not able to open a gallery at the moment.
"A new problem in the centre of the Plantation?" (I hear you cry with disbelief). Spotted by Mr Heap some years ago but never attempted until last year when we got attacked by a million midges clearly equally distraught at our finding. Well it's there and positive it's never been climbed before and it's easier for the short (that's topical), at least until you get to the rock over.
It's called "one more inch" and weighs in at about font 7a+.
Located 5m directly left of Victorian Over Mantle, it starts under the roof on an obvious jug, with a heel on the obvious ramp in front of this. Match on the edge round the lip, and do a big rockover out right, turn left hand to a palm and you're up.
Enjoy!
Andy
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/stanage4.jpg)
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/stanage5.jpg)
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/stanage3.jpg)
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Is that Pat in the background? I don't reckon he'd fair to well on that 'easier for the short' lay-down start...
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(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/stanage5.jpg)
Is this the most outrageous full body dab ever or what? :P
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i must concur this does appear to be perhaps a little lowball. We'll use my thinnest mat.
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i must concur this does appear to be perhaps a little lowball. We'll use my thinnest mat.
doesnt look like you need a mat tbh!? or to bother for that matter...
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Subterranean :-X
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That is one incriminating photo. You'll have to trust it's a baggy t-shirt ;) ;)
You would be better doing it matless but it was a little wet t'other day and if you don't make the rock over you just have to let go and fall directly on to you back. Definately best to put the mat lengthways rather than widthways as otherwise it curls up at the edges and you're even closer.
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Just got this off wikipedia.com
Definition of :
Classic boulder problem
1. Good rock e.g Millstone grit
2. Good moves
.......
8. Bum Scraping Lowball
e.g "You would be better doing it matless but it was a little wet t'other day and if you don't make the rock over you just have to let go and fall directly on to you back. Definately best to put the mat lengthways rather than widthways as otherwise it curls up at the edges and you're even closer"
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Andys been busy recently, here's another of his new minor classics which he assures me "was a little wet t'other day"....
(http://www.cs.cornell.edu/people/simeon/vpp/photos/roll-53/53-21.mxy800.jpg)
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I feel claustrophobic just looking at that......why would you !
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think's about time someone wakes arthur up and gets him to call limestone season.
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I feel claustrophobic just looking at that......why would you !
Because you're desperate to find unclimbed rock in the Peak?? :D
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it looks great to me.i like problems where i can have a lie down between moves.
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Hi Ya,
Did this problem last night as we are now getting a little short of new things to try.
When he said it may be easier for the short they wernt joking.
The hardest part about this problem apart from the potholing to start!!! (was for me all 6ft of me) was keeping myself of the block at the left hand side.
The moves above the cave are great though.
Tony