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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Pantontino on April 20, 2006, 10:46:48 pm

Title: You want 8as? We got 8as!
Post by: Pantontino on April 20, 2006, 10:46:48 pm

After a spookily quiet 2 month period (check the gap in the first ascents this winter/spring) the coasty crankers go crazy! Apologies to all those folk who thought they'd ticked a V11/8a when they did Trigger Cut - I guess you've now got another reason to visit the cave.

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Title: Re: You want 8as? We got 8as!
Post by: ding dong on April 20, 2006, 11:36:04 pm

hows panton got a minus one in this new karma thing?

i did say 'maybe' triggercut only a ten.but then its harder than louferino and thats ten isnt it?
anyway, carry on.

Title: Re: You want 8as? We got 8as!
Post by: superfurrymonkey on April 21, 2006, 12:04:04 am

If trigger cut is a 10 what does that make halfway house?

Title: Re: You want 8as? We got 8as!
Post by: ding dong on April 21, 2006, 10:39:27 am

a 12 still.

anyway of wiping me from this debate? :-\

Title: Re: You want 8as? We got 8as!
Post by: Doylo on April 22, 2006, 12:29:26 pm

Nice Neil, can´t believe you didn´t opt for my name suggestion though - ´A Cut Above´, its so obvious!
As for the grade of Trigger i reckon V10/11 does it justice unless of course your knees long enough to get a kneebar on the crux (mine is). Still worth V10 then though. And Halfway prob is still V12 (just) although there is a lot of faggoty beta for it now, this was repeated by Danny Cattell recently BTW.

Title: Re: You want 8as? We got 8as!
Post by: c.j.d. on April 23, 2006, 01:26:06 pm

  Just been discussing this with Pantontino - 7c+/8a does seem the consensus grade I guess.  As Doylo says, if the knee bar fits, wear it!  I would still say 8a though, but maybe it does'nt suit me.  I think that Halfway House and Directors Cut would maintain the grades they have been given, even with new beta, as Trigger Cut feels alot harder after 10 plus moves into it.  You could argue with that and say ' thats not how it works on paper' (I've just done that!), but thenmaybe that its the physicality of the problem, not how you do the sums, that set the grades in stone (until new faggotry comes along!)... ???