UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: BN on April 20, 2006, 10:49:23 am
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This is my first post, so.......hello
I find myself in a bit of a rut - I train about 3 times a week, try to leave feeling fresh, train with variety (but I like steep stuff) and try to be warm up/down well etc, but I am not getting stronger
Can people suggest some key points I might be missing or that I could try?
I climb about 6a at the mo
Cheers
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Hello :)
I'll let the people who train answer your question ;)
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Think you need to be more specific for people to help.
How long have you been climbing?
How do you train? Do you set yourself goals?
If you are climbing 6a (whether font or uk tech) just climbing lots should be the key (don't bother with things like campussing or deadhangs or all that). Work on problems that are a bit harder than you can do, and when you can do all those, you can try stuff that's harder still...
Also try doing a circuit of the problems you can already do. Start with the easiest and work up to the hardest. The ease with which you manage this will improve over time, as will your strength and fitness.
Try doing your circuit as a warmup for the first part of your session, then move onto working harder problems - get the moves wired and if you can't do them now, do them next session. When you can do them, add them to your circuit.
Also try doing eliminate problems of just one or two moves. Nominate holds and have a go. If you can do the move, use holds that are smaller or further apart. Keep coming back to the ones you didn't manage. this is a good way to work specific weaknesses - laybacking, underclinging, dynamic moves, pinches etc. etc.
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I couldn't have put it better myself ::)
Just climb loads thats how I get better and basically push yourself to your physical limits but not so far that you will pop something. ;)
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get a finger board and do a ton of training ;)
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Hello :)
I'll let the people who train answer your question ;)
Bubba, dont be so modest..
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Get ur fingers strong, I`ve been obsessed with finger training and have invested on some captains of crush grippers, those and my finger board have worked miracles for me, I was climbing V4 this time last year and I nearly had my first V8 today!! there`s more to it than just strong fingers but if ur fingers are strong then small holds start feeling like jugs!
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I know exactly what you mean superfurrymonkey i bought a finger board about 2 weeks ago and before i was climbing about v4 now iv been knocking off v6's. some people say they are a waste of money but jeez mine has worked a miracle!!
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Yeh finger boards do definately help especially if done enough but the most important point is to just climb as much as possible indoors and outdoors!
Try things that are at your limit and finish by doing circuits of as many problems as possible. I think dips, press ups and sit ups are also good for all round help and will improve your climbing!