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the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: fatneck on March 23, 2006, 10:07:19 pm

Title: 7a sitter on the Dog...
Post by: fatneck on March 23, 2006, 10:07:19 pm

...boulder at Burbage South. Footblock is in at this grade, question is, how do you avoid the the block you sit on to start? Surely it can't be 'in' as well?

Title: 7a sitter on the Dog...
Post by: Andy B on March 27, 2006, 12:57:42 pm

Nice problem.
If I remember correctly we used double kneebars to come out to the crimpy rail with our right then the slopey dish with our left, then jumped to the good pocket with our right.

Title: 7a sitter on the Dog...
Post by: fatneck on March 29, 2006, 01:11:36 pm

Yeah I was getting a heel-toe in, think I need to get both feet locked in. Cheers dood!

Title: Re: 7a sitter on the Dog...
Post by: MattW on May 03, 2008, 05:49:34 pm

Tried this today, nice problem. Are you going for the good pocket with the left or right hand?

Title: Re: 7a sitter on the Dog...
Post by: Andy B on May 03, 2008, 08:14:51 pm

Went to the good pocket with my right hand. Have also gone straight to the top with my right hand. This makes it easier to hit than stabbing into the pocket, but the distance and swing are bigger.

Title: Re: 7a sitter on the Dog...
Post by: fatdoc on May 04, 2008, 07:07:29 pm

right foot locked sideways, left also for 1st move, take left foot out... drag it a little, once both hans on "rail" put left foot on flat smear.. pivot off it as you slap left hand up to the pocket.


that's smallies beta for you..!

it's 7a+ in my book.

Title: Re: 7a sitter on the Dog...
Post by: Andy B on May 04, 2008, 07:27:02 pm

Quote from: fatdoc on May 04, 2008, 07:07:29 pm

both hans on "rail" put left foot on flat smear.. pivot off it as you slap left hand up to the pocket.

Is that the rail to the right of the slopey dish? Can't remember why we didn't use this, but I'm sure there was a good reason.