UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: mark on February 16, 2006, 06:24:51 pm
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At Stanton Moor this afternoon. Did Chicken Ginger, the short, steep arete below Brad's Wall. Tremendous problem. Not something that I'd heard anyone mention before so I thought I'd take the initiative and recommend it. Best problem I've done around Stanton (though I haven't done Brutal Arete). Nice find, Bonjoy.
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Cheers Mark. Your the only person i've heard of going on it. It doesn't look much, but I thought it was good climbing.
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This saw many accents the other week. It does look like a huge pile of toss but the climbing is quite reasonable for one of lovejoy's problems :D .
The slab to the left however is a magnificent problem despite being lichened and comes highley recomended especially, I imagine if you climb about that level
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Tried to find this little fella but failed! Couldn't even find brutal arete! Ended up walking through miles of ferns in the dark before heading home :boohoo:
Tried following Ru's guide directions i.e. walk from path near Brads rib, find twin pines (bout 200m) :'(followed by vague quarry thing then head down into the wilderness - but to no avail. Any extra directions?
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I think the best way is to find Brad's Wall first. Still a bit vague but:
head along the top track looking for little buttresses on the right (on the edge of the drop) if you are stood on the top of maybe the second or third of these you can see brads wall (facing the direction you've come from brad's rib etc., ie sideways to the slope.) just beneath and to the left of you. From Brads wall Chicken Ginger is just beneath and to the left (if your facing downhill). From here the easiest way to find brutal arete is to traverse round the slope at the same level (top of chicken ginger/ bottom of brads wall) for about 100m? until you hit Big Brother and Little brother in the first trees. Brutal arete is just above and behind these (awkward scramble around the top of big brother. Brads Wall, Big Brother and Butal arete all face left, if looking uphill, and Chicken Ginger faces right.
So from the track just keep standing on the outcrops you can see rather than questing down hill, until you see brads wall then the rest will follow.
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Your the only person i've heard of going on it. It doesn't look much, but I thought it was good climbing.
Another vote from me on the quality. Like someone said, one of the best things around there.
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Ta Andy, I'll give it another go at some point.
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is this a sort of lip traverse or do you climb the arete on the slab.
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It climbs the arete on the rhs from a sit start - so yes, a bit like a lip traverse. The description in the current guide is crap, sorry, it has been amended in the new one.
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cheers.
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thanks.i thought rocking into the munge didn't seem right.