UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: andy_e on January 20, 2006, 06:05:48 pm
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I'm surprised a topic like this doesn't already exist as sticky! Perhaps it should be made so...
Off to the peak tomorrow, what's the Burbage South boulders like at the moment? Does Mother Cap have a pond underneath it?
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No pond at mother cap, most places dry after the hurricane force winds. Burb south little boulders may be a bit muddy.
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Cheers dude... Now bring on Conan The Librarian!
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do the same move twice. from break, up with left match with right up with left match with right up with left for jug
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cheers dense, i'm sure i'll do it! That is the beta i was trying last time, just unable to hold the hold...
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Bbge South Boulders were in pretty good nick today. Was a tad muddy, but nothing a bit of dead bracken and a couple of pads won't cover. Enjoy
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Simon, did you get much done yesterday? And I presume you're still mad ferret for the Lleyn trip next weekend?
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mother cap was good today, as was Stanage Far Right, Buckstone, and burbage bridge. Burbage west was a bit iffy, the arete right of westworld was soaking.
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absolutley fucking boiling today at rivelin.
Which shits on JB's assertion that is was too cold to do routes at rivelin. In actual fact it was too warm. In your face girlfriend. :8)
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Was rivelin mostly dry then? Or were the more shelterd bits still damp?
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rivelin was 98% dry
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Excellent. Thanks.
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even thorn crag was warm :? it's still january ffs
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We were sunbathing at Mother Cap!
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Simon, did you get much done yesterday? And I presume you're still mad ferret for the Lleyn trip next weekend?
Got most of the easy stuff on the boulders I haven't visited before (lovely circuit!) and did my usual trick of donating copious quantities of skin to the Sheep without actually doing it! Will definately go down next time I'm there mind...
Totally psyched out of my tiny mind for Sat. Can't wait! Just hoping the weathers's decent!
If anyone else is interested, there'll be a rather large crew from Liverpool heading to the Lleyn for some Gabbro action in an Aquamarine stylee. All welcome (it's my 30th b'day... :cry: )
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Dragged this one up again.
What's it like in the Peak at the moment? Is this claggy, overcast weather staying on the hills as mist? Or is it managing to clear the crags?
It's been very grey and overcast for ages here in Liverpool, there's very little breeze and I just don't want to waste a drive to the Peak at the weekend if it's all going to be in the mist and too damp to get much done. Especially when the eternal sunshine of North Wales is available. :?
Thanks.
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see the sticky topic at top of bouldering forum, tomorrows weather, for yesterdays conditions HOWEVER today is warmer in sheff and up in Lodge moor(pretty high and close to top of stanage) it was little bit drizzly this morn at 5.
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Thanks, I'll look at that thread. It was a bit drizzly on my way to work this morning too.
Cheers.
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Lower edges below 300m i.e. the freezing fog line, have been bone dry and f-ing cold.
Just had a report from the Ms. driving past Higgar that fog is really thick and damp, though everything is still frosty. Sounds like it has some serious gash potential, could still be good lower down.
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Thanks Fiend (and Ms Fiend). I will call the Adams tonight and see if he's been out today, but it looks like North Wales sounds like a better option.
Cheers all.
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The sqaure boulder atv Baslow on the top was moist today except for about 4 holds that didn't go all the way to the top and the trackside boulder at Curber was mostly fine. If it doesn't rain or get too foggy tonight the weekend should be good. Forecast of dry but overcast.
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Higgar Tor was gash as a greasy gaping gash today, can't remember such festeration. Burbage North looked similarly shit. Rivelin Quarries were considerably better but a bit damp, dunno about Rivelin Edge itself.
The Foundry was dry :shock:
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Plantation shite.....
minus ten dry, kudos wall dry :roll:
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Hmmmm. Maybe should have tried for some routes shizzle at Stoney, but it didn't seem inspiring when we were out there...
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minus ten dry, kudos wall dry :roll:
what the fuck were we doing at caley?
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Burb North was piss wet through so went for a wander with Obi-wan up to Bamford, which was also piss wet through. Found some intersting looking stuff just past The Crease which looked like it would be good when its dry, and there was an overhanging rippled wall with a few rugosities and chicken heads that looked kinda funky up and left from The Salmon. Anyone know if these have been done/named/graded. There was also a hard looking arete.
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Found some intersting looking stuff just past The Crease which looked like it would be good when its dry, and there was an overhanging rippled wall with a few rugosities and chicken heads that looked kinda funky up and left from The Salmon. Anyone know if these have been done/named/graded. There was also a hard looking arete.
This thread should answer your question: http://ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=4106&start=0
Also see the new Burbage guide which has some of the Bamford bouldering in.
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Cheers Bonjoy. I haven't got the new guide yet so haven't seen whats covered but that thread just about covers everything we were looking at yesterday. Shame it was mainly wet.
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what the fuck were we doing at caley?
You were at Caley on Sat? WE were at Caley. Actually we only turned up at three ish after going to Crookrise first which was piss wet through. I'm beginning to think that I'll never get to that crag dry.
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what the fuck were we doing at caley?
You were at Caley on Sat? WE were at Caley. Actually we only turned up at three ish after going to Crookrise first which was piss wet through. I'm beginning to think that I'll never get to that crag dry.
aye, were at caley from 11ish till dark. abortivley warmed up near blockbusta, sacked it to the crag area for rest of the day but stopped breifly back at the "V8 groove" thing on way back to stile. you'd think we'd have bumped into you. did you not bump into katz either then?
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back to banford for a short while. I've never been, drove past loads and it looks ok ish for an afternoons bouldering. Is it worthwile? remembering that I don't do routes
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are you the new andi_e?
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Bamford is great, good location and some interesting problems and short(ish) routes that could be highballed. But a good long day could see it pretty much all ticked. Quite a few of them have shite landings too.
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There's an overhanging arete next to Wrong Hand Route that looked really nice, I would be tempted to go for that alone. Oh yeah and there's some highball-ish aretes and prows to the right, near Jasmine too, they definitely look good.
Plus some of the easier routes are pretty nice to solo e.g. Gargoyle Flake, The Crease, that sort of thing.
And it's exposed, and pretty quiet.
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but obviously it's in fuckin england so even if its alright in sheffield it'll be fucking raining in the peak...
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did you end up at rubicon?
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we'd have bumped into you. did you not bump into katz either then?
No didn't bump into Katz either. We went to New Jerusalem to warm up, then up to those blocks left of Psycho and did Crystal Method, then wandered up to Block buster, decided I'd need beta to do Guacamole, went back down to the blocks left of pycho to try Dunning's new 8a sitter thing, then back to New Jerusalem.
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Whats the deal with crystal method? How far right do you go from the jug or is it pretty much straight up?
Guacamole: LH Positive crimp, RH Not so good crimp just right, Right heel on the far right of the ledge. Rock up for the tiny edge (RH obviously) and jump straight for the razor edge top with your left (N.B. not sure how height dependant this method is) also, the sit start only adds two moves to the original if you are tall/stretchy.
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Crystal Method: from matching the jugs, I went left hand to the first grattonny crimp straight above the jug, right foot on high nubbin below the jugs, pulled up to the second gaston with my right hand (using the lower gaston as intermediate), left foot on jug, then stand up for the slopers on the top. So pretty much straight up from the jugs.
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has anyone been out/past the grit this morning. i've done my work, teaching is cancelled until 2 and i might nip out in a bit. any isdeas if the crag may be dry?
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There isn't a cloud in the sky and a good nor-westerly blowing. You do the math, this is one kinder egg I'm not going to assemble.
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I'm shit at maths.
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despite all that time at school. i always thought it was no use for the real world.
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Do you mean quadratic equations never come in useful? Surprise surprise...
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however some competency at sums would help with these clinical chemistry questions. fuck it peak here i come...
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fuck it peak here i come...
Is that near Moffat peak?
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It were minty fresh out at stanage where a varied selection of ukb regulars were seen lurking. Saltbeef, Johnny Brown, Percy B and the likes of the black pearl trying the ace, vickers swearing at Deliverance and Bonjoys good lady swearing at the green..........................
myself i just rolled around on the only bit of turf under the Buisness boulder pretending to do Zippys......
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Anyone out tomorrow or Friday?? I'm working from home this week and could do with getting out...
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I'll be all over the peak like a jimmy hat if it stays as good as today.
Best conditions for a while, after all that rain washed Fiend's Fucking White Mess off everything. Pleasantly warm in the sun with the wind keeping the rock cool, got one minor nemesis out the way.
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You did Careless then...?
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No. That would be a major nemesis.
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...Fiend's Fucking White Mess....
:shock:
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i fucking hate all you cunts who don't work mon-fri 9-5. i hope you all get split tips.
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i fucking hate all you cunts who don't work mon-fri 9-5. i hope you all get split tips.
nah, just get fucking splitting headaches from gettin up at 4am :lol: :wink:
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add me to the list of non dolly partons.
word y'all
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Well it's snowing in 'deen, so that's my lunchtime session phuqt. Again.
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i fucking hate all you cunts who don't work mon-fri 9-5. i hope you all get split tips.
Thanks Fiend - this is a rare occaision to for me - have a nice day yerself :)
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fiend has a midlife crisis and suddenly all the posts are attributed to him :wink:
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fiend has a midlife crisis and suddenly all the posts are attributed to him :wink:
It was the weather map that got me confused a case of misplaced avatar.. sorry fiend and screw you Dave :lol:
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fuck it peak, yeah you know it. It's where mushin is.
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What's Higgar like at the mo?
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Pretty good, bit muddy underfoot.
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That's ok then... might head out there this week iny new softshell for a shit... more likely though a sick. What about the burbage west arete next to westworld?
Edit: should have made that more specific!
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You'll have to check that for yourself. I cannot take you all the way, but I can take you some of the way.
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Higgar and Burb West were both in good nick on Saturday as both Piss and Shit saw an ascent (though not by me, that would be just silly). Can't vouch for Westworld area though.
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krush regime also saw umpteen ascents on satdy, inc a flash.
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nice, who flashed it? had a very quick look last week but went to the pub intead for some black sheep.
I take it the top is steady
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gandhi flashed it. top is steadyish, just a long move for the top. pretty airy, we only had 7 mats.
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Fucking hell. Chose the worst two days of the year so far to come to Sheffield. Fucking english weather. Burbage Bridge was dryish yesterday, enough for me to flail miserably on a B6 and get cold. I was the only person climbing in the peak yesterday probably. The snow was nice though. Today is even worse! Fricking rain.
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I reckon we're in for another week of this yet. Might give some winter conditions though - was snowing on the snake all morning.
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The cave was nice and dry :D
You people wanna check the singularities before making anytrips :wink:
http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/FREE/singularities.asp
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Radio 2 just warned Snake pass is shut and Cat and Fiddle likely to follow. The 'Northerly Blast' arrived right on schedule, as it did last year.
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The weather has been perfect for climbing all week here in W1. As per usual I was thinking of driving north this evening/tomorrow morning.
My fear is that the peak has a snow-fog merge at two feet above the ground...?
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Conditions have been perfect all week, though a bit hot in the sun. Ground is frozen hard, only snow remaining is on kinder plateau. Peak should be deserted as everyone is going to LlAMFF. Set to be the same over the weekend
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Whats a LIAMFF?
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http://www.llamff.co.uk/
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Richard Williams is not a filmmaker.
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Is there a smiley face taking his hat off saying 'trousers down, you got me, congratulations on your wit'?
Retort written on a small piece of paper stuck to the rock fifteen feet up a hanging arete at stanage. (I know this is weak).
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For the few of you who don't live in Sheffield, it's just dumped an inch here and then cleared up but everything is wet. Rather pretty though. Readza posted it was snowing in Congleton so I imagine everything in between is somewhat wintery.
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Aye, it dumped two inches here too, so it's an indoor day tomorrow unless it dries up enough, which I doubt.
(1001 posts, oh dear, I really do need to GAL.)
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Anyone get out on the grit today (saturday)? Went to Stanage and the snow was melting in the heat, dripping on all the rocks. Virtually nothing was climbable. Retreated to Minus ten, which was all dry except for the bit we wanted. Will anywhere be dry on Sunday?
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Cratcliffe area was fine, as it pretty much always is on marginal days. Shame on everyone who went indoors yesterday :roll:
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Shame on everyone who went indoors yesterday :roll:
Sorry :(
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Shame on everyone who went indoors yesterday :roll:
Indeed - I was out chuffing at Horsheshoe and got a bunch of routes done once my fingers had warmed up.. Off to Cratcliffe now....
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Off to Cratcliffe now....
But I went to Minus Ten instead... I've not been for a couple of years and had forgotten how good it is (seriously!)
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Anyone get out on the grit today (saturday)? Went to Stanage and the snow was melting in the heat, dripping on all the rocks. Virtually nothing was climbable. Retreated to Minus ten, which was all dry except for the bit we wanted. Will anywhere be dry on Sunday?
Brownstones was fantastic. Don't you wish you were still here? :P
I nearly did pigswill :D
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Is plantation looking good at the moment? I know I don't like it that much, but you can't argue with a lift over, beats the usual two buses and much walking to brownstones...
Anybody seen any forecasts for tomorrow?
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The weather is good today. It's been on and off all week - if you're lucky it will be fine and not rain till the evening - that's happened a few times in the last few days. Unfortunately I'm stuck inside working when I could be climbing. Gachh. Deadlines. :cry:
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Unfortunately I'm stuck inside working when I could be climbing. Gachh. Deadlines. :cry:
Bugger. You'll just have to stay up all night to finish it then you can come with! Are the A-man and the other R-man coming out? What about the L-girl and the D-man?
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Anyone been to the peaks premier hard sport climbing venue? Wet? Likely to be wet even if its dry for a couple of day? Specifically right-hand side, PUTP, etc...
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I'm about 15 minutes away to the West and it's raining at the moment.
Climbed there Sunday and the routes on the r.h.s were almost there but still seeping in areas so I imagine they'll be similar today. However by Sunday or Monday all could be well given the forecast for the weekend.
Check the conditions thread on UK and Eire as it usually has recent updates.
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Thanks. I wasn't aware of that thread...