UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Greencar on December 28, 2005, 12:49:02 pm
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On Tuesday 27th James Pearson climbed the finger crack project at eatswood rocks from a sit down start. The problem starts with a 2 move 7c+ (westwood) and then finishes up the overhanging, 7c+, highball finger crack. All previous problems have finished at half height on a jug out left but the crack is the obvious finish. It is an awesome line, eatswood is complete.
Good effort James...
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Isn't that crack already an E4 6c route or part thereof?
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Isn't that crack already an E4 6c route or part thereof?
Fiend....your train spotting talents are completey wasted.
You should be a guidebook guy.
Mick
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The left arete (Bristol Dreaming) is e4 6c, you climb to a huge jug on the arete (finish of hats for clowns etc) and then head up the arete and use the crack a couple of times for your right hand. My problem takes the crack direct, from bottom to top.
Bonjoy wrote in the big malc projects thread a while back:
Malc stylee projects? How about the line crossing the roof left of Chimes start and traversing the lip into the top bit of Ben's roof.
General crying out to be done projects:
The Bristol Dreaming crack direct at eatswood
bla bla bla
bla bla bla...
I think it is pretty good, well, I would say that wouldmt I :wink:
Go to it.
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Ah cheers that makes sense. Well done.
Don't think *I* will be getting to it though :wink:
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eatswood is complete?
Oh, I think not. Theres still a coupla things to do. All hard though..... and high. :D
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I'm sure there will always be things for you to do, eh Percy :wink: :wink:
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You're not wrong. lts the joy of being weak!
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Mighty fine effort there yoot! :D One more off the magic list completed. How did it go in the end, did it involve finger searing mono-locks, or was a more layback approach used? What's the fall like? Any plans to do the traverse connection, or are you leaving that for the link monkeys?
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Bit of both, layback the top half but the bottom is a series of slaps off and too mono-fingerlocks. Fall is fine off the crux and im sure would be ok from higher but did not test. No plans to link traverse, a bit american for my liking.
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good effort, this is amazing problem, did you go to jug then back to crack???
Im presuming not due to description, though must be hard for 8a going direct. westwood is hard 7c+.
one of the best pieces of grit around quality wise
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No plans to link traverse, a bit american for my liking.
Nothing wrong with links young man, they're bread and butter for some of us :!:
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You presume right Simon. No jug, just up the crack. Going direct is pretty hard, but so is 8a :wink:
Glad other people find this buttress as impressive as I do. It really is great.
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It's an amazing line, on pristine rock, on a great buttress. Deserves to become a classic.
Any photos in the pipeline?
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whats the access situation? spoke to someone who went and did fat slapper before crimbo, they asked at the house near the crag and got told it didn't belong to them and they were sure the farmer who's land its on wouldn't mind...
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The land is owned by the farm below and to the south of the crag. Access has been prohibited for over twenty years and looks set to stay that way. Asking said farmer for permision will almost certainly be unsuccessful. It is best to maintain as low a profile as possible. What the farmer don't see/hear, he isn't going to worry about. As i've said before, if you STAY BELOW THE TREELINE AND AVOID LOUDNESS, you will not be seen or heard by the farm (which is some way beyond and below the crag) whilst approaching or at the crag.
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I got some pics, well the plumber got some. Maybe see them in the mags if the powers that be deem them worthy.
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As a matter of interest for the weak, what grade do you think Hats For Youths would get with the jumps start, therefore skipping the desperate crux of Westwood?
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I think 7c+. It felt impossible untill I did it but even then felt hard. After doing it a few times it feels ok so it might be easier.
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Not a great pic, but it serves to give an idea of what the line is like:
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/eastcrack.jpg)
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yo just how dry does eatwood stay in the rain? like would it be dry today (or more usefully, tomorrow?)
that line looks ill.
word.
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If anywhere is likely to be dry it's eatswood, although the last two holds on the trav stay frustratingly wet. Having said that i'd imagine this misty drizzly shit is going to wet even the steepest most sheltered ground :roll: