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the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: saltbeef on December 02, 2005, 04:31:59 pm

Title: costa blanca
Post by: saltbeef on December 02, 2005, 04:31:59 pm
ok you gnarlers. who's done the route "costa blanca" on the Penon?
Is it anygood and will it be fucking baltic in december? will I need an ixe axe and those boot spikes?
Title: costa blanca
Post by: Bonjoy on December 02, 2005, 04:38:30 pm
Haven't done CB but have done one of its neighbouring routes El Navigante. Very fine it was too. Deffo bring a helmet. Weather should be fine at that time of year. Watch out for the vicious seagulls which abound on the Penon.
Title: costa blanca
Post by: Nigel on December 02, 2005, 05:36:48 pm
I've done it. Listen to Boner Joy, watch for the birds; during the course of this route, above and beyond the screeching kids (of the fulmars, not the Benidorm slags) I was projectile vomited at, shat on, and nigh on concussed while 30ft out from the last bolt on the steep summit scramble.
Title: costa blanca
Post by: AndyR on December 02, 2005, 06:08:40 pm
Yep - pretty good route - think I may have done it on New Years Eve? Have been in that area a few times and it's been t-shirts and shorts - other times a bit parky - always take down. By the sounds of Nigel's advice, you may need crampons for the bird shit cornice....
Title: costa blanca
Post by: runt on December 03, 2005, 08:36:42 pm
Was doing the t shirt thing in Jan one year, but def needed the fat jacket for the mornings and where it was shady........er remember the penon being a bit loose in places? no?
Title: costa blanca
Post by: Bubba on December 03, 2005, 08:58:51 pm
Quote from: "Nigel"
I was projectile vomited at, shat on, and nigh on concussed while 30ft out from the last bolt on the steep summit scramble.

Sounds lovely :lol:
Title: costa blanca
Post by: account_inactive on December 04, 2005, 03:25:17 am
Aye, not a bad route.  

make sure that you lock your car in the dock a the bottom of the crag (too many scallies) and wonder at the dumped TV's and washing machines at the back of the crag  :shock:

Dude you need to get to Forada or Gandia Bovidon  :D
Title: costa blanca
Post by: tobym on December 04, 2005, 10:28:22 am
Dylan, that avatar is way gnarly, dude :8)
Title: costa blanca
Post by: SA Chris on December 05, 2005, 09:00:27 am
Good route. There is one odd belay where you get to the top of a tower and a big ledge. Worth moving belays to save rope drag. I blew the crux pitch and had to aid it, which was annoying as it was a due to getting the sequence wrong.
Title: costa blanca
Post by: saltbeef on December 05, 2005, 11:18:55 am
Quote from: "Dylan"
Dude you need to get to Forada or Gandia Bovidon

what routes would you reccomend? this is considering the longest route i've climbed since may is wild in me. that's the only route actually
Title: costa blanca
Post by: account_inactive on December 05, 2005, 12:00:47 pm
What grades you looking for bud? 6a, 6a+ :lol:
Title: costa blanca
Post by: Bonjoy on December 05, 2005, 12:13:33 pm
Forada is great. Go there on a sunny and not too windy day as it is in the shade all day and quite high up.The long dirt track drive in is a proper hire car hazard though. Make sure you get the optional wheel and tyre add-on on the car insurance!
 As for recomendations. Look for the starred routes on the Rockfax database for the crag.
Title: costa blanca
Post by: account_inactive on December 05, 2005, 12:18:54 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Forada is great. Go there on a sunny and not too windy day as it is in the shade all day and quite high up.The long dirt track drive in is a proper hire car hazard though. Make sure you get the optional wheel and tyre add-on on the car insurance!
 As for recomendations. Look for the starred routes on the Rockfax database for the crag.


Tis good advice.  Will be very cold there at the moment,  My parents live about an hour from there so I've been quite a bit.  My Dad shit him self when he drove me there the 1st time :)  Second time I totalled the side of the hire car  :shock:  Luckily I didn't have to pay a penny
Title: costa blanca
Post by: saltbeef on December 06, 2005, 01:15:20 pm
Quote from: "Dylan"
What grades you looking for bud? 6a, 6a+ :lol:

now don't go crazy, I've done the pink one at the wall, which is 5+. was hoping some sun and foreign psyche will get me up a 6a...
Title: costa blanca
Post by: runt on December 06, 2005, 06:03:04 pm
gandia rings a bell too, had some smart short steep stuff in do able grades, plus if you're swift you can nab a free orange from the orchard on the walk in.
Title: costa blanca
Post by: SA Chris on December 07, 2005, 08:18:52 am
Gandia is quite a bit further north. It's a right suntrap, so can get roasting. Town is nice too, especially when Las Fallas (sp?) is on.
Title: costa blanca
Post by: Fiend on December 14, 2005, 12:32:43 pm
Possibly below your desired grade range, but for the most interesting rock and inspiring climbing, we rated Montesa (very rough rock with good pockets) and La Panocha (interesting conglomeratey rock and a very cool location) - might be suitable for rest days  :wink: . Gandia has lots of good jug pulling, we liked that too.
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