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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Mister Ed on November 22, 2005, 07:57:58 pm

Title: New problem at Secret Garden
Post by: Mister Ed on November 22, 2005, 07:57:58 pm
"Longman"

Climb directly up the arête used by “Left-hand Man” from a sit start.
Grade: 7c+

F.A. Ed Morgan

More detailed beta - (added for clarity rather than "you must do it this way")
Sit start under blunt arête. Climb arête directly - a steepish start, right hand to 2 finger pocket, then up with left hand to 3 finger pocket. It's is pretty obvious what to do next, just avoid the temptation to traverse right to the big hold off right - that's the finish to Left hand man. Instead make tricky moves up to the obvious slopers from the 3 finger pocket. Longish moves throughout so could be harder for shorties (isn't everything?  :wink: )
Title: New problem at Secret Garden
Post by: Pantontino on November 22, 2005, 10:46:37 pm
What!?! The Ed Morgan - or as David Atchison Jones put it in The POC: 'The Mathematician'?
Title: New problem at Secret Garden
Post by: ferret on November 23, 2005, 12:31:25 pm
confused, do ya climb the arete on the left or right hand side? yor description sopunds like lefthand man without the big hold at the top :D
Title: New problem at Secret Garden
Post by: Mister Ed on November 23, 2005, 01:43:01 pm
Left-and man starts in the centre of the right hand face a moves up and left to the arete, then moves back right. Longman starts directly under the arete and goes straight up.
Title: New problem at Secret Garden
Post by: ferret on November 23, 2005, 02:04:02 pm
think i get ya, probably more obvious when yor lookin at it
Title: New problem at Secret Garden
Post by: Mister Ed on November 23, 2005, 04:48:16 pm
Yup - it's quite obvious when you're there - I've uploaded a pic of a low down move - I think it shows quite well the line of the problem.
Title: New problem at Secret Garden
Post by: Mister Ed on November 23, 2005, 07:55:08 pm
Quote
What!?! The Ed Morgan - or as David Atchison Jones put it in The POC: 'The Mathematician'?


Couldn't possibly be, could it?  :wink:
Title: New problem at Secret Garden
Post by: Bowie on November 29, 2005, 08:34:34 am
Nice one Ed - hope the skin has recovered!
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