UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: dobbin on September 23, 2005, 04:30:35 pm
-
What an awesome line! Rich is out there at the moment, and I fully expect him to complete what has to be the hardest power route in the world - but I bet he didn't wager another Brit had been sneaking in for an attempt :
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10037/DSCF0092.jpg)
here it is in profile :
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10037/normal_DSCF0088.jpg)
Good luck Rich!
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10037/normal_DSCF0084.jpg)
-
Is there an Action Indirect at HVS 5b?
-
yes, I think thats the bit I did, description:
Action Indirecte (HVS 5b) - no stars
Bumble up easy rough crack to steep bulge with no holds. Marvel that someone with such bad shorts could climb so hard. Jump off, or wobble dangerously downwards, remembering to smear crucial holds with mud.
-
how was your trip dobbin, i'm off there in a few weeks
-
Awesome! area is of outstanding beauty, noone speaks English, great cakes and local beers to choose from. Onsighted a cheesecake in the rain on the first day - not that I wish to intimidate with my achievement, but when you get this good (at cake) its hard not to brag.
Loads of crags with some wild routes to go at. There's short, long, pockety, crimpy, juggy, terrifying, steep and technical routes to choose from at loads of locations dotted in the forest. It rained for the first two days and although dampening the psyche a little it was still possible to climb in even fairly heavy rain as most harder (over 7a) things are a bit steeper. Easy stuff can be sportingly bolted (1 at about 5m then a belay at 8m!
Climbing is steep and (in the words of the guidebook) 'athletic', so you need a rest after 2 days on really. You will like the Klagemauer. Check out Hardcorewand too, theres a really good 8a+ (desparate fool 10-) which I'm sure you will mince (its a board problem!).
Had a good trip in all, would be fully psyched to go back. Are you keen for anything particular?
-
nice one, got me physched, just hope the weather plays ball. Keen for whatever, not been doing much so haven't got high hopes.
-
Oh mate, there is so much to do there, as long as you can climb 7a and above there is loads to go at. Weather there last week has been good and getting better by all acounts (hope its not too hot for Rich). If you have long you will build up serious fitness!
For something short do Hurrikan (8a) at the Klagemauer, for something pumpy do Volgeln Verboten (7c+) at Grune Holle and for something scary do Gottner Ged weg at baronschlutswande. Of course, I have been only once and for one week, so this list is by no means exhaustive - I havent even been to half the crags!
How long are you going for?
-
going for two weeks, have been a few times before so know the score, have done hurrikan, did you do Herkules 7c+? best of its grade there. I'm more physched to get some simpson footage than to climb to be honest.