UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: cofe on September 22, 2005, 09:33:02 am
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same as lovejoy's thread really.
if anyone knows of anything new or has any strong opinions on grades etc then would love to hear from you.
both bouldering and routes. and comments on relevant V grades for problems.
ta.
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ok off the top of me head...this is what stuff feels like to me, and i'm not refering to ru's guide and converting the numbers....
that slabby arete behind flatword V4*. not done slab itsefl, felt V7ish.
Flatworld (LH) V8***. to me flatworld on other side seems a bit illogical, but then i would say that cos i can't touch it.
Beagle thing undercut dyno off mono V7**
Beagle thing off crimps V6**
Beagle thing low roof V7*
Beagle thing rail to slopey finish V7/8***
Beagle thing LH line in the groove, not using the B5* for feet, I've not done it yet but feels V7
Beagle B5 groove thing V3/4**
RH sitting start on the squarestone (old B5) V1
LH sitting start on the squarestone (old B6) V4
fact hunt V7*
slabby mantle thing L of Fact hunt V6
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I think the crimpy one on the Beagle stone is very height dependant. It feels lots harder than the wall to it's right to me. I'd say V7.
I don't think boulderer probs get star ratings in BMC books, if the Roaches one is owt to go by.
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Word to the cofester. You guys really are getting involved, it's cool.
Routes:
Wasted Youth VS 4b
Flying Crag Groove VS 4c *
Don's Mantel E1 5b *
Laicifitra VS 4c *
Whatisit HVS 5b (maybe worth a star)
Route 2 VD
Renaissance HVS 5b *
Shake VS 4b
The Rib VD
Rough Wall Climb VS 4c*
Jolly Green Dwarf VS 5a (maybe HVS, quite sketchy)
Pensioner's Bulge VS 4c (probably should have a star, neat little route)
Hair Conditioned Nightmare HVS 5b * (definitely worth a star, good line and nice moves, maybe E1?)
Index Climb S *
Index Climb Direct VS 4c * (this should have a star too really)
Above and Beyond blah S *
Jam And Blast It HVS 5a ** (backed off this but from the looks of things, hard for the grade but very good)
Problems:
RH sitting start on the squarestone (old B5) - entirely height dependent, V0- for the tall, at least V4 for the short.
LH sitting start on the squarestone (old B6) V4 ** - good problem this.
Walnut Traverse, the easy one - V4** maybe? Not any easier I don't think.
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i forgot about the walnut traverse. used to think it was a lot of climbing a very falloffable for B6. Maybe V5 these days, or more.
Little Richard Vtoss
Walnutwhip Vshit
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dave - think you've just about said what i've got down.
lovejoy - there is a way where the eagle stone crimp thing is v6. will show you some time.
Word to the cofester. You guys really are getting involved, it's cool.
Routes:
Wasted Youth VS 4b
Flying Crag Groove VS 4c *
Don's Mantel E1 5b *
Laicifitra VS 4c *
Whatisit HVS 5b (maybe worth a star)
Route 2 VD
Renaissance HVS 5b *
Shake VS 4b
The Rib VD
Rough Wall Climb VS 4c*
Jolly Green Dwarf VS 5a (maybe HVS, quite sketchy)
Pensioner's Bulge VS 4c (probably should have a star, neat little route)
Hair Conditioned Nightmare HVS 5b * (definitely worth a star, good line and nice moves, maybe E1?)
Index Climb S *
Index Climb Direct VS 4c * (this should have a star too really)
Above and Beyond blah S *
Jam And Blast It HVS 5a ** (backed off this but from the looks of things, hard for the grade but very good)
cheers fiend.
there's an argument for giving many routes V grades as well, e.g. whatisit V1.
re: hair conditioned nightmare - do you use the aretes?
re: the rib - logical way is to do a direct start at about HVS 5a and avoid the diff crack - which incidentally is aweseome.
you done the side wall left of the rib?
shake is worth a star i reckon.
anyone done hot ziggerty or cold diggerty?
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Is Hair Conditioned Nightmare the double aretey thing with crack in the middle and slot/pocket things? If so it defo uses aretes, not to would be well eliminate?
Have you done those HVS 6a/6b type thin quarried wall things near Thin Crack(that name might be wrong), somewhere near the righthand end of crag. Good probs but really hard, have only done one out of three I think.
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Have you done those HVS 6a/6b type thin quarried wall things near Thin Crack(that name might be wrong), somewhere near the righthand end of crag. Good probs but really hard, have only done one out of three I think.
finger crack - VS is excellent.
we went down there is less than ideal conditions and came to the conclusion that maybe at least one of them was fictional. some of the stuff in the froggatt guide i reckon was written without a) visiting the crag and certainly b) never climbing there.
we tried the right hand line that goes up the ramp - by the time you come to go up the jug in the arete is about 1ft away. blinkers at the ready.
the one just right of the crack certainly looks harder than hvs 6a - hence my suspicions as to its grounding in reality.
the 5b one left of the crack is likely to be the hardest 5b move in the world. i need to go back really for a proper look.
also - the capping block near jealous pensioner taken direct is baslow's answer to seperate reality (tongue in cheek). hogg did it and it looked wild. dry humping skills essential for the top out.
keep it coming.
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also - the capping block near jealous pensioner taken direct is baslow's answer to seperate reality (tongue in cheek).
Those your words are they Cofe? :wink:
That big route behind the finger crack which got HVS is really only VS but actually very good. Gear is a bit sparce and the rock a bit snappy but everyone who did it that day (me, kim, Bogg(maybe) and Grimer) all thought it was surprisingly good (worth a star like).
Tha fact that you were there at the time probably renders this a pointless post but work is slow today.
That arete boulder problem in the quarry bit is fantastic.
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yeah, deciding on stars for routes seems hard enough, but bouldering is much more subjective again. Do people feel you need stars for problems, or does it work well enough as is?
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I think just having one star for particularly good probs, as in the rockfax yorkshire guide works well, as it saves you wasting your time searching for a problem, only to find out it's rubbish. This may be redundant though if your going to have text for each problem, i guess it's easy enough to write 'classic' 'good' or 'don't waste your time' innit?
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The Roaches guide seems to do the job of pointing you at the classics without the use of stars.
On the other hand I guess you would cut down on the guidebook's word count by using stars instead of hyperbole.
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also - the capping block near jealous pensioner taken direct is baslow's answer to seperate reality (tongue in cheek).
Those your words are they Cofe? :wink:
er, yes. i mean no. i know that you know that i know.
anyone done the choker? or poppers? or slanted and enchanted since holds came off?
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LOL, this is turning into the thread of the month. Forget Thor's Cave or V8+, Baslow is where it's at :D
Cofe, sorry, I don't remember much about those routes, pretty much all of them were soloed years ago :? For HCN, I might have done, I remember it felt like good grit 5b.
As for the V grades, I think the way Staff's guide does it is spot on, mostly route grades but added V-grades for highballs, or added adj. grades for highballs in boulder areas.
Stars for problems - agree with Bonjoy.
BTW, that Baslow Seperate Reality thing, where's that and how hard (sounds very appealing).
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don't get too excited fiend. keep the snake in the cage.
sep reality is the finish through the crack in the capping block; 'santa claus retreats' or summert. unfortunately no jamming.
will scan and post some pics if i can be arsed. which is unlikely.
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Post up cofe. For a so-called "photographer" you seem very reluctant to show your pictures, I suspect Dave's missus actually took all your good photos
P.S I really do just want to see some photos- team beardown is being pretty slack at the minute
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I suspect Dave's missus actually took all your good photos
She certainly took all my best ones. Its pretty hard for me to take a truly superb photo, since by deffinition I have to feature in said photo.
sorry been no photos of late scouse, combination of getting new camera and the fact we've spent the last 3 months at dark shady limestone sport crags.
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sorry been no photos of late scouse, combination of getting new camera and the fact we've spent the last 3 months at dark shady limestone sport crags.
shady character
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sorry been no photos of late scouse, combination of getting new camera and the fact we've spent the last 3 months at dark shady limestone sport crags.
Font is gonna change all that and put team Beardown back on the map, still gotta sort some Bleaustone shizzle too.
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for font we need team bleaustone/beardown branded t-shirts, trucker hats and sweatbands. we also need some bleaustone banners to drape down the sides of problems in a DWS style.
Can you get the pronton sprayed-up in a bleaustone paintjob - a bit like those over-caffeinated sugary drink company/VK rep's minis you see parked around crookes?
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bleaustone paintjob
That's ripe for a spoonerism
I think I'll concentrate on making sure it gets us to font first before I think about painting. Might get a bleaustone tattoo if Steve pays for it.
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bleaustone paintjob
That's ripe for a spoonerism.
what on earth is funny about "paintstone"?
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i forgot about the walnut traverse. used to think it was a lot of climbing a very falloffable for B6. Maybe V5 these days, or more.
Little Richard Vtoss
Walnutwhip Vshit
Hey, they are my favourite three there! apart from the rail slappy v8 up top.
Walnut Traverse V5*
Little Richard V7
Wallnut Whip V8+* (are you using the v8+ in the guide?? if not V8)
has anyone done the choker?? im thinking of giving it a go now i can cruise the standard trav.
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i forgot about the walnut traverse. used to think it was a lot of climbing a very falloffable for B6. Maybe V5 these days, or more.
Little Richard Vtoss
Walnutwhip Vshit
Hey, they are my favourite three there!
you need professional help. although i do think little richard is pretty good, albeit V6.
cheers for the info though - let me know how you get on on choker.
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you need professional help. although i do think little richard is pretty good, albeit V6.
cheers for the info though - let me know how you get on on choker.
And I occasionally enjoy trips to stoney. I worry myself sometimes. :roll:
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hey cofe i was at baslow last weekend.
i havent got the guide on me but id like to comment that on the square block the x2 b2/3 problems with the pockets and high step up to start are a complete sandbag - been a few times and i/and numerous friends can't get on it at all! - we all do 6a's normally fine.
also the sit start b5 i think it is far right or left of those above - its about b3 stand start and sit start b5 but unless im trying it wrong it has a huge reach from the start hold!
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lovejoy - there is a way where the eagle stone crimp thing is v6. will show you some time.
I done it at last - few years trying - then it gets down-graded!
Same as attitude inspector - Not all of us can reach between the holds without proper jumping / effort - Don't start grading for giants - it demoralises me!
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lovejoy - there is a way where the eagle stone crimp thing is v6. will show you some time.
I done it at last - few years trying - then it gets down-graded!
Same as attitude inspector - Not all of us can reach between the holds without proper jumping / effort - Don't start grading for giants - it demoralises me!
yeah that cofe's a proper man mountain. 8'3" of pure reach. he makes Shaq look like mike lea.
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cofe, have done hot ziggerty as a high ball (in fact in the company of 'high ball queen' lisa rands) - old skool 6b (V5?) - nowhere near the mythical lee twins 6c. also did a dirty start off the grass (not the stone) which was more like a mythical lee twins 6c. richie patter thought we should name this 'tony gubbers world of rubber' - please feel free to disregard this.
know of a few obscurantums in this area if you interested (over in the woods back from the track by the cross; also couple of things on the boulder by the tree, by the bench, by the memorial, by fact hunt, by the by).
also refering to dave's list - would hate to think flatworld (the true, original & splendid right side) will get superseeded by the horrible sandy sharp leftside - i can't believe anyone wants to go up there, should be banned .
also know lucy atkinson did some nice things on the rocks below the walnuts .
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would hate to think flatworld (the true, original & splendid right side) will get superseeded by the horrible sandy sharp leftside - i can't believe anyone wants to go up there, should be banned .
You're right Al, in fact I'll apologise for making the first ascent and for publicising it, its really pretty poor. However I had to do something whilst waiting for my companions to tire of attempting flatworld; I had no idea it would become an easier version for the tall.
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:)
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lovejoy - there is a way where the eagle stone crimp thing is v6. will show you some time.
I done it at last - few years trying - then it gets down-graded!
Same as attitude inspector - Not all of us can reach between the holds without proper jumping / effort - Don't start grading for giants - it demoralises me!
yeah that cofe's a proper man mountain. 8'3" of pure reach. he makes Shaq look like mike lea.
check me out. (http://www.comp.nus.edu.sg/~xuemingq/myInterests/jordan/michael_jordan014.jpg)
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cofe, have done hot ziggerty as a high ball (in fact in the company of 'high ball queen' lisa rands) - old skool 6b (V5?) - nowhere near the mythical lee twins 6c. also did a dirty start off the grass (not the stone) which was more like a mythical lee twins 6c. richie patter thought we should name this 'tony gubbers world of rubber' - please feel free to disregard this.
know of a few obscurantums in this area if you interested (over in the woods back from the track by the cross; also couple of things on the boulder by the tree, by the bench, by the memorial, by fact hunt, by the by).
also refering to dave's list - would hate to think flatworld (the true, original & splendid right side) will get superseeded by the horrible sandy sharp leftside - i can't believe anyone wants to go up there, should be banned .
also know lucy atkinson did some nice things on the rocks below the walnuts .
thanks al. will bear hot zigg in mind and revisit script later. you done cold diggerty to the left of it? or that batu motel thing?
let me know of the other obscure stuff too and thre LucyA stuff.
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cofe, not done cold ziggerty, although fancy it, don't know what batu motel is?
re. stuff over by memorial:
big natural boulder next to an old tree, 100m towards baslow from the memorial, just off the rough track. There is an obvious rail at the bttm of the blunt left rib. this goes (as does much of your skin) at V6ish (did this with the percy/mike lea mantleshelf skills workshop few years back)
also a lucy atkinson problem up the front of the slab (V? not desperate).
another nice thing: back along the track from the memorial, in the 'gardoms north' crossroads direction, turn right into the woods 50m before the tree on the left of the track, (well before the dry stone walls) and journey into heart of darkness. down there is the 'honey pot wall' a sweet little flat wall with a nice crack up it, V 3/4, (you'll know it when you see it :-) but not much else.
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I'll ask the bird to give you the beta on the problems she did near the walnut boulder Cofe. There are a couple of little gems (not lettuces, mind)!
Daves grades for the Fact Hunt problems are much nearer the mark - its the only occasion I'm aware of where Ru has overgraded things!
Mick Adams repeated the Choker a while back - 7c+ seems to be the consensus. It is an eliminate traverse which should be shit, but actually has some cool moves on it -sometimes I even suprise myself! Mick said he enjoyed it, but it took him a few goes....
I did another shite problem on the back of the Walnut traverse boulder (the block with the easy traverse on - not the block with the Choker on). Its a sitter under a steep prow to a horrific grovelling mantle on the opposite side of the boulder to the traverse. Its quite unpleasant, and made me feel sick. Hopefully its been ungulfed by moss now though so you're all excused.
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Where does the choker actually go? I assume you get the little richard pinch via the tiny crimp and big sloper, but then where? It seemed too low to go "around the arete at this level"
would like to do it though,
dan
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I used to start the walnut traverse on some good holds around the arete on the left then drop down onto the sloping shelf maybe added a grade
"The Full Walnut"
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nice.
did hot zigg yesterday. absolutely brilliant. e2 6b/v4? dutch and scouse lapped it for the camera. cold diggerty to the left looks like a none-line but would wanna get any knowledge really. went to have a look at monument buttress but was unfortuntely wetter than an otter's pocket. looks good though.
anyone done poppers?
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Back in the day, but stopped it after falling over on the dancefloor and loosing my specs.
Ever drunk Bailey's from a shoe?
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loosing my specs.
you tempt me to whip out the scanner and OTE...
ever been rohypnolled by a swan in cancun?
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revisiting baslow at the moment; anyone have anything constructive they'd like to add about the routes or bouldering?
ta
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big natural boulder next to an old tree, 100m towards baslow from the memorial, just off the rough track. There is an obvious rail at the bttm of the blunt left rib. this goes (as does much of your skin) at V6ish (did this with the percy/mike lea mantleshelf skills workshop few years back)
going to call this one 'railtrack'. who did it first? does it matter?
anyone tried welford's Higher Ground?
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BTW, that Baslow Seperate Reality thing, where's that and how hard (sounds very appealing).
HVS - just right of pensioner's bulge. here demonstred by james 'wolfgang' hogg.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/Peak/Bogg_santa.jpg)
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revisiting baslow at the moment; anyone have anything constructive they'd like to add about the routes or bouldering?
ta
Yes. I've done a new problem, but you were there when I did it. V4 "The Balls Test". Quality little arete. As for where it was I havn't the foggiest.
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"HVS"? Yes, that looks like an HVS move :-X ::)
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Was at Baslow yesterday and heard Neil Travers has just completed two new problems on the edge above the Walnut. Went and did them - both very good highballs and fine with a couple of mats. Don't know names, but these are they.
Directions: find a path down from the top shortly before the big house sized boulder down on the slope, assuming you are walking in from Curbar end. This is all uphill from the walnut. The problems are on the edge, so you don't need to scramble downhill at all.
First problem is on the left hand wall. Felt like ft6bish. Perhaps even easier, but quite high. I used a heathery handhold in the cutaway which may not have been used on the FA, but it felt silly to ignore it. Very nice.
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1076/1466782365_5dc0a190c7.jpg?)(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1016/1467640220_c649eff1c9.jpg?)
Second problem I thought was really good. Pleasing moves using undercling and blunt arete, to reach a couple of small crimps. Then stiff rock up and left using a blind foothold on the arete, to grab a good jug. 7a+ish?
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1410/1466841921_b4167ca5a4.jpg?)(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1086/1466842433_ba5bc26697.jpg?v=0)
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the top problem is 'the balls test' (see earlier post) done by me last year, and probably before by someone else. the second one is new.
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Aha! Did think it looked like it should have been done before. Glad to see my grade guess was about right. Nice problem - deserves to be on everyone's Baslow circuit.
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anyone have anything constructive they'd like to add about the routes or bouldering?
did 'cold ziggerty' tonight cofe, more dangerous than 'hot zigg', and a lot better than it looks - also weirdly relevant encounter with daniel lee on top, who was physced to see it chalked up!
also regards the stuff r-man posted up, the arete/leftwall has been part of the circuit for years, as scouse and r-man thought
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anyone have anything constructive they'd like to add about the routes or bouldering?
did 'cold ziggerty' tonight cofe,
nice. any knowledge as to beta, where it goes, any specifics? can't tell much from the floor - had always dismissed it as hot zigs poor cousin.
organics aside, care to offer a grade also?
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had always dismissed it as hot zigs poor cousin
yeah, me too, but its actually more like 'hot zig's' moody brother - started stepping off the blocks in the corner at some small but good crimps at the top of the flake, and then follow your nose diagonally right, using the dirty crimpers to the top where the arete meets the flat top - sounds lame but its actually a real buzz cos it sends you out over the drop, and the moves are nice and old skool - if you've a 'hot zigg' wall pic i'll draw it on if you need.
daniel confirmed this as his sequence too, although there is a definite direct to do, which looks like their cruel little sister!
as to the grade, same as 'hot zig' technically (whatever you think that is) but is more sustained higher up - its a grey area thing cos its paddable, but still could be nasty - don't know how you grade these things now cofe - E4 6b/V5? as a ball park
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its a grey area thing cos its paddable, but still could be nasty - don't know how you grade these things now cofe - E4 6b/V5? as a ball park
Despite your look of happiness once you'd topped out, your spotters weren't entirely convinced it was a boulder problem... :lol:
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I did 3 'new' problems here, details as below :
A. Undercutting, 7a+ : Climb the wall left of the arête to the obvious notch without using the arête.
B. Heart Stopper, 6c : Climb the arête from a sit start, don’t use the notch out left.
C. The Ripper, 7c : Climb the wall to the right to it’s highest point without using the arête at all! 7a+ if you use foot holds on the arête and go left at the top.
All are excellent, but then I would say that, please try and comment on the grades - but not harshly.
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'Undercutting' has been done before and we thought probably more like 6b+ (Cofe, can you remember?),read Al's posts for more info.
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I did 3 'new' problems here, details as below :
A. Undercutting, 7a+ : Climb the wall left of the arête to the obvious notch without using the arête.
Assuming we're talking about the buttress in r-man's photos above, then this wall has been done before. or at least something on this wall, i seem to remember it backhanding off an undercut thing, but not close enough to the arete that i'd have mentioned it in the description - maybe your thing isn't the same? the thing we did was certianly nowhere near 7a+, i was going to guess 6b+ then read scouse's reply......
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I guess it depends on whether you started just left of the arete or slightly up the bank? I started about 1m left of the arete slightly up the bank with right hand on thin undercut/pinch and left on small edge, followed by funny left hand flick to 2 finger undercut to gain the obvious undercut with your right hand. If this goes at 6b+ I may as well eat my boots and give up climbing.
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I guess it depends on whether you started just left of the arete or slightly up the bank? I started about 1m left of the arete slightly up the bank with right hand on thin undercut/pinch and left on small edge, followed by funny left hand flick to 2 finger undercut to gain the obvious undercut with your right hand. If this goes at 6b+ I may as well eat my boots and give up climbing.
it was the arete on its left done at 6b+ ish last year which is what the photo above is of - this matches Heartstopper though we didn't do SS. from memory the wall was been done at e1 6b by simon jones a while back ('Pinch n Push'?). can't remember what V grade (bmc money) we thought when out checking.
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don't put your boots on ebay just yet neil, the thing we're on about is probably ~2m left of the arete up the bank. its only about 2 moves long.
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Just retrieved said boots from microwave - they're looking a bit worse for wear now but at least I might have staved off having to eat them!
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Hi Neil,
As I mentioned above, I did The Ripper with arete. 7a+ was what I guessed too. Very nice problem - good find! Will have to go back and try it without the arete (and without jug to left?), but perhaps this should be mentioned as an eliminate variation, and the arete version regarded as the main line? When the easiest way up makes such a good problem, it seems a shame to imply it's a cop-out.
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R-man, are you Robin? If so Hi Robin,
I hear what you're saying but I found it more natural to follow the line of the holds and keep you feet with your hands, especially if you haven't used the arete for your left hand to begin with. The problem is way better if you climb it without the arete.
Have a go and let me know what you think of the grade.
Cheers Neil
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Yeah, that's me. I'll give it a go. I just climbed the most obvious line, but you may be right that the climbing is better without the arete. I'll just have to go and try it. :)
Just to clarify, is the finishing jug of the 7a+ version out of bounds on the 7c?
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Yep, it is, but what you'll find is that you end up with your feet on bad smears directly below the right hand crimp and it feels more natural to head for the high point up and right of the lower jug - good luck.
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Did the strict version of The Ripper today. A couple of slightly different moves, but to me it still feels like an eliminate on an already good problem - though it is an obvious eliminate. I suspect it's easier than 7c, but others will have to try it and see. This takes nothing away from the fact that whichever version you do, it's a very nice sequence of slab moves on good underclings and crimps. :)
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R-man, are you Robin? If so Hi Robin,
Not Robin Goodlad surely?
si
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No.
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Baslow shots from today. Some lovely highballs.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2048/1806569386_8181b31e7d.jpg?v=0)(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2344/1806570106_c9fa19a65c.jpg?v=0)(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2029/1805720113_41a003e833.jpg?v=0)
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the groove in the first pic is excellent. have you been on and done pensioner's bulge and that lot? also, Has Shaun Got False Teeeth? is a decent highball.
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Will have to locate a guidebook, I don't know the names of any of the highballs at Baslow.
I've done stuff at three main areas
1.Area round groove - thought the left arete of the groove (in photo) was excellent
2.Slabs around 2nd and 3rd photo
3.Slabs further on, with a thin seam straight up centre, and other stuff to the right. (Is the stuff to the right pensioner's bulge?)
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thought the left arete of the groove (in photo) was excellent
this thing?
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/climbing/_MG_7181.jpg?t=1193857870)
think the other stuff you're on about is pensioner's bulge etc. it's a great crag.
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It's that Powerball wad, wossis name? Scarce Dave!
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look at the size of them forearms.
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thought the left arete of the groove (in photo) was excellent
this thing?
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d175/beardownproductions/John/climbing/_MG_7181.jpg?t=1193857870)
I have never climbed upon that thing. However, the arete beneath him looks about right - nice clamping moves to a good slot, and thence the top. Easier than the groove but scarier, I thought.
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yeah, world powerball champ did that too. he's on the left hand start there (dodgy landing) with his right hand in the good slot you're on about about to do the last lock to the top. he can turn (gyrate) his hand to anything.
any strong opinion on grades etc?
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look at the size of them forearms.
you put fred nicole to shame there scouse :)
think the grade is pretty soft for this but its a bit worrying, easier than the groove - 6b+ish (font)
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A bit of quim fingers going on there too. Did you deliberately both wear complimentary yellow and brown outfits (and chalk bag ?!) for Cofe's photo or is that just coincidence?
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Dunno about left and right hand starts, we just went up it from the lowest point and the landing was worrying. Think I used a slightly different sequence than Al. My way felt pretty easy. 6a+. Would have said the groove was soft 6b. When compared to Remergence or Nicotine stain, or the 6b arete problem (Balls Out?) pictured higher up this thread. Mind you it's highball, always good to be a bit generous for highballs. Anyway, I'll ask my mates, see what they thought.
Whilst I'm waffling, I realised my comments about the Ripper eliminate may have sounded a bit dismissive. All I meant to say was that the non-eliminate way is pretty good and should be considered the main challenge ...but the strict version is logical, also a worthwhile problem, and has an excellent finishing move.
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Another grade opinion. The man on the groove in the photo reckons 5+ or 6a, for the groove.
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the groove in the first pic is excellent. have you been on and done pensioner's bulge and that lot? also, Has Shaun Got False Teeeth? is a decent highball.
?Is pensioner's bulge area the bit with these features:
1. Parallel twin cracks
2. Slab just to right around vague arete
3. Next buttress with bulge on left, behind trees
4. Striking pillar of rock on right hand side
If so, I tried the slab direct, with three mats. When I say tried, I got to the point where two or three pure friction moves beckoned, moved up once, moved down once. Repeated several times and eventually backed down. Woe is me. What's this one, and how hard is it? That slab is so tempting, but I'm a wuss.
Still haven't tried the stuff just to the right. Wandered off to the fact hunt stuff - good problems, probably 7b and 6c respectively.