UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: andy_e on August 16, 2005, 08:58:05 pm

Title: sport routes: bouldering in the sky?
Post by: andy_e on August 16, 2005, 08:58:05 pm

reet was just wondering if one climbs at about V4 usually (6b+ for you wierd french-types) what sort of grade do you reckon that guy could manage? i was hoping 7a...

obviously there are  no 3-bolt classics at raven tor at the lowly grade of 7a, but are there anywhere else (except cringlesport!) because stamina doesn't come easily to a boulderer like me (even though i could make ste mac look like a fatarse.)

Title: Re: sport routes: bouldering in the sky?
Post by: dave on August 16, 2005, 10:48:37 pm

Quote from: "andi_e"

there are  no 3-bolt classics at raven tor at the lowly grade of 7a

too right - super high intensity bodybuilding only has 2 bolts, and little extra has 4 - looks like the don't meet your criteria right?

Title: sport routes: bouldering in the sky?
Post by: Andy F on August 17, 2005, 09:34:42 am

Try Mangoustine Scatouflange at Chapel Head Scar. Its a Tree to an easy wall to a V4 problem to a bit of 5b/c climbing above to the belay. F7a.

Andy F

Title: sport routes: bouldering in the sky?
Post by: clm on August 17, 2005, 08:40:22 pm

i can do v7ish (halam) and still cant do 7a....
if its bouldering in the sky its o'conn or you want to be talking to.

roll on andi g - you could get a whole alphabet of andys.

Title: sport routes: bouldering in the sky?
Post by: andy_e on August 17, 2005, 10:52:24 pm

V7ish as in hank's wall? nearly got that.

Andy F: good idea, little known aea to me so might have to check it out.

Title: sport routes: bouldering in the sky?
Post by: dobbin on August 18, 2005, 09:07:11 am

A little extra is a bizarre route, not really hard but easily fuck-up-able. I haven't done SHIBB so cannot comment, but people tend to think its quite stiff.

You could go and do Rubicon roof. Reckon thats about a very extended V4 problem.

Title: Re: sport routes: bouldering in the sky?
Post by: AndyR on August 18, 2005, 10:35:03 am

Quote from: "dave"

Quote from: "andi_e"

there are  no 3-bolt classics at raven tor at the lowly grade of 7a

too right - super high intensity bodybuilding only has 2 bolts,

Is super jobber that thing at the right hand end? If so, has it still got that enormous hand-made hanger on it? I think it was E4 6c when I did it!

Title: sport routes: bouldering in the sky?
Post by: Bonjoy on August 18, 2005, 10:38:27 am

That's the one, although it now has standard bolts.

Title: sport routes: bouldering in the sky?
Post by: MB on August 20, 2005, 10:17:24 am

SHIBB is basically a boulder problem. Agree with dobbin, get yourself on rubicon.