UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: tomc on July 17, 2005, 10:16:52 pm
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maybe one for mr p. - has anyone been up there to check them out, on the hillside looking directly across the valley from the higher of the sheep pen boulders? looks like a bit of a walk up the hill, but they look to be sizeable??
answers on a postcard
cheers
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I haven't been (yet), but that hillside has always intrigued me.
Please report back with your findings.
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Coincidentally... me and owen were discussing those boulders as we drove into Ogwen on Saturday (to fail repeatedly on Swamp Thing in my case). As Mr Panton said... do report back once you've staggered up the hill and checked them out!
On a tangent, has anyone climbed the mildly diverting problems on the small promentry (into Llyn Ogwen) opposite the carpark near the bogside boulders? (a couple of hundred metres west of Milestone boulderfield) There's a cool arete, some nice mantels and a couple of traverses in the area. All clearly climbed before, but ok for out of the way problems.
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I've done a few things on that promontary, in fact this whole area is dotted with good, but isolated problems. Check out the large boulder field on the hillside to the right of the Milestone Boulders.
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Yeah, there's so much lying around that valley. Someone should write a guide or something! :lol: The rock is such perfect quality as well. Worth seeking out as a good final roadside venue at the end of a day eh?
One thing your guide has done for me (as well as countless other things, many of which have been constructive and haven't caused harm to my relationship with my girlfriend...), is encouraging me to get off the beaten track and seek out less well known gems. And there are plenty of them in Ogwen alone. So much to do, so little time.
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ill try and head up there in wednesday or thursday being unemployed! you havent any knowledge about the landowner or anything mr p. - claim right to roam??
ill take my digy up to take some snaps aswell hopefully!
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can we not send r-man up to photograph them?
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I thought he'd lost his tripod.
Tell him to come anyway, there's some really big quarries just round the corner, he'll love all that atmospheric industrial wasteland stuff.
As for access - I'm not entirely sure about the specific approach, but basically anything above the fridd line (the limit of improved agricultural land on a hillside) is fair game these days. Also in some areas, sections of land below the fridd are classified as open access. Check the CCW website for full details of how the CRoW mapping exercise turned out.
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sweet - i cant see it being ideal farmland up there - just got that iccy feeling that its gonna take about 2 hours just to get up there!
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I thought he'd lost his tripod.
Tell him to come anyway, there's some really big quarries just round the corner, he'll love all that atmospheric industrial wasteland stuff.
Why I oughta... I didn't set out to become quarry-man you know. I just happen to live in lancashire. And it's either quarries or trees... Anyway. I definitely want to head Waleswards at some point in the future. Some of the pics look amazing. I've been once, but not with boulderers. Which meant I ended up at the bottom of left wall with an unfamiliar harness and various jangly bits attached. Oh dear. But that's another story.
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ive always looked at those boulders at Burbage at the sheep fold & thort that if it was any good that someone would have been & reported in if any good.
Rockfax guide said that there was a project route there as well
...hmm maybe a walk there this weekend..
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ive always looked at those boulders at Burbage at the sheep fold & thort that if it was any good that someone would have been & reported in if any good.
Rockfax guide said that there was a project route there as well
...hmm maybe a walk there this weekend..
:roll: :roll: :roll:
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Mmm, might be quite a walk...
Saw these again yesterday but still havn't done the treck, went for the safe option of the Sheep Pen instead, yowser that pinch hurts! Have got various holes in my right hand now and my left shoulder is completely messed up after it seemed to dislocate and suck itself back in while doing Toe Dragon?! I'd quite forgotten how much climbing messes you up, I mean I can deal with a panad being too hot to pick up because you've got no tips but having to move your arm like a crane to get to your cupboard is just silly.
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i still have a gaping hole from that pinch from last weekend. v good move. and a hole from gnasher. The first move on jerry's problem is a tad difficult, no? any tricks or is this a pure strength thing
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drove past those boulders again the other day with master schelmerdine and he reckons that they look really small - knee height??!?!
ill still put the effort in though!!!
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Jerry's Problem is just plain brutal. As far as I know, only Sam Cattell and Mark Katz (I think?) have repeated it.
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The only knowledge I have on Jerrys in to make sure you place your right foot square down on the foothold for the first move, otherwise it rolls off when you press and lock on your left arm for the second move. Don't bother trying to get your right foot up after this for the final slap to the ramp - just smear your left on a v.small smear and pop. The first move is all about getting your fingers right on the start hold - not to far up to the left, crimp don't pinch! Hope this makes sense. By the way, it has now been upgraded to V11 due to local popular demand due to the crystal/pocket becoming shite due to breakage. Beautiful.
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cheers for info. it was 38 million degrees on that wall last week. We are hoping for some kick ass autumn trips (what with g/f away for 4 months..)
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i don't think huffy's done it and he's been up there a few times so it must be hard!
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u living on eccy road now chris??? was there all last year next door to the nursery tavern, was well loud all the time and full of tossers who used to piss down my access alleyway - nice!
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S'mai Gruff, ti o'lew fy'n washi?
Arglwy hows the expedition going? Can't wait for www.exposure-therapy.com to be updated! The house is a bit shit now you've gone (you great big westie). Luckily the shoulder seems to be all okay again now, bit of a wierd one but at least it means I don't have to walk to those boulders- getting to the boiler plate slabs is epic enough.
Went out to Clogwyn Y Tarw with Tom today, fine place to climb. Also went to the Bogside via Renaissance of the Small Hold- have you seen it? Deeply impressed with what it is but no chance of moving on it- anyone out there with the hello! exclusive on it?
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whazz, gotta head up to wales sometimes, probably with homeboi r-dude (if he ever comes back from europe, where are you dude?) whilst bored at work read north wales bouldeering guide many a time and have heard fantastic reports of porth ysgo and other stuff (parisella's might be too hard) so i was wondering whens the best time to go i.e. is autumn 1/2 term any good? might see if my new homey sam wants to go...
as far as finding out about the size of boulders, compare them to nearby sheep (there's plenty of those in wales i believe...) that works for me. mind you you should see the holcombe boulders, now there's routes packed into small boulders!
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should me more like - renaissance of impossible! looks like a grimoss rockover just to get started!
u get any of yer essays done slebog blewog?? i feel a little bit bold - the wolf??
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North Wales is mint throughout the year, it's not that conditions dependant and we've so many rock types and places you'll always find somewhere in good nick (if its raining and you don't fancy the cave then Hylldrem is excellent and has a stunning, steep ramp) whether sunny or cold. I reckon it should be pretty primo this fall as well, have you bouldered here at all?
Aye Tom ye cannae tempt me from ma toil just yet- although I reckon I can drop the Calvinist work attitude this weekend for a trip to the Wolf mopping up those projects on the way, are ye psyched laddie?
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Oh aye, was wondering if theres any chance you could e-mail me those photo's from the pass? With a bit of photoshopping I reckon I could get my face transposed onto Linda Lucardi's body- the nights are getting lonely now that bird I pulled at the WI strawberry tea has chucked us. Thank you for understanding.
(Please send all hate mail and virus' to rhysajones@yahoo.co.uk)
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ill get those photos sent tonite! went and did some routes on the orme with tony yesterday - forgot how scared i am of heights!
nay mind
linda lucardi is a bit of a minger now - shes gettin on a bit - probably the same rank as a current bonnie tyler - ill see if i can sort out a britney for u!
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Should be fine without cheers! You up for climbing over the wkend? Lost the psyche for these essays now- done 7,000 and have 5,000 for tomoz noon but I just want to get out, can't think why. Hows the finger?
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yeh the tendon's feeling good - but i slipped over on a piece of sheep shit yesterday on the orme and cut my hand on a rock - pretty embarassing and painful - worst of all - had some spectators whilst on pale shelter and i had sheep shit all over my arse and harness - nice.
should be up for gettin out 2moz or perhaps saturday - ulysesses has been blaggin for a lift mewn y myneddiau, ond dydy dwi ddim yn siwr!!!
ill get in contact coshan!
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Must make a nice change from having it on the front of your kecks!
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:lol:
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shall we get out 2morrow then rhys? weathers gone a bit west over here - ill call later!