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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: SA Chris on June 30, 2005, 08:32:15 am

Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: SA Chris on June 30, 2005, 08:32:15 am: http://www.stonecountry.co.uk/

also news of hard first ascents :shock: and :roll:
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Fiend on June 30, 2005, 11:15:49 am: Cheers for posting that, looks like a good find in a sweet location.

As for the new ascents, definitely more :roll: than :shock: with a fair bit of :huh: :eek2: and a hint of :freak: mixed in...
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: SA Chris on June 30, 2005, 11:33:58 am: Indeed, plus a :!: and a :?:
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Jim on June 30, 2005, 12:33:51 pm: Quote
Mal Smith has climbed the link-up of Pongo sit-start and In Bloom to finish up Slap Happy to pip Dave Macleod to Super Size Me V13. This oft-eyed and desperate-in-reverse problem. was climbed in his Malc's unfussy powerful style and with the usual humility and lack of noise. However, this must be seen as a significant Scottish addition to world bouldering.

Didn't know this had gone down, was watching Macleod trying this when I was up there t'other month. very impressive feat
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Mr.Burns on June 30, 2005, 12:44:46 pm: Good site me thinks.. I may completely revise my training methods though!
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Stubbs on June 30, 2005, 12:46:26 pm: Go out and find a 50 kg rock to hug.... open your own new v15's - training made simple!
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Mr.Burns on June 30, 2005, 01:21:54 pm: Quote
Go out and find a 50 kg rock to hug

...first you must strap it to your back and carry it home.
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Stubbs on June 30, 2005, 01:29:34 pm: Of course - that sounds harder than the actual training - i wonder how you would go about strapping an almost spherical boulder to your back... duct tape?
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Mr.Burns on June 30, 2005, 03:17:34 pm: I think you have to wedge it in between your shoulder blades and strain as if on opposing gastons really hard, that should hold the rock in place. A couple of wraps with the duct tape is also advised. Straining hard enough to keep the rock in place could lead to having an accident so take spare underpants when out selecting a training rock!!
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Falling Down on June 30, 2005, 03:18:48 pm: Reminded me of the summer training that the guys who surf big waves in Hawaii get under their belt.. When it's flat in the summer, go to Makaha or Sharks Cove.. free dive to 34/40ft to the floor, pick up a big rock and run along the sea bed with it toill you can't carry it any longer then swim back to the surface gasping for air... repeat..

(http://www.garrettmcnamara.com/pictures/garrett-rock-carry.jpg)

Impressive to say the least...
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Mr.Burns on June 30, 2005, 03:24:15 pm: Thats wicked!!! I guess you drop it before swimming to the surface? I wonder if SOC got his rock from the bottom of the sea?
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: SA Chris on June 30, 2005, 03:30:28 pm: Quote from: "Mr.Burns"
I guess you drop it before swimming to the surface?

Do you think? :roll:
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Jim on June 30, 2005, 04:05:06 pm: pretty impressive if you didn't
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Falling Down on June 30, 2005, 04:14:07 pm: Quote from: "Mr.Burns"
I wonder if SOC got his rock from the bottom of the sea?

Nah... it looks like a hold that got pulled off one the V15s... more :roll:
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on June 30, 2005, 04:22:05 pm: http://www.stonecountry.co.uk/html/body_skye.html

theres a short film of Si climbing there as well
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Stubbs on June 30, 2005, 05:05:29 pm: Sweet, a film of him climbing after injury, and not doing anything harder than V5 - the perfect way to answer his critics....
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Mr.Burns on June 30, 2005, 05:08:40 pm: I hope you're not suggesting he didn't rock climb the V12 and V13? :wink:

Still, a nice little movie non the less.
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: webbo on July 01, 2005, 08:28:17 am: Quote from: "Mr.Burns"
I hope you're not suggesting he didn't rock climb the V12 and V13? :wink:

god its ages since we've had a si thread and my life has been quite meaningless as a result.
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Fiend on July 01, 2005, 11:40:53 am: Let me guess, it's black and white and grainy and doesn't show fuck all of actually climbing any mega-hard lines??
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Fiend on July 01, 2005, 11:44:28 am: Okay it's colour and grainy-ish and doesn't show fuck all of actually climbing any mega-hard lines...
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: tc on July 01, 2005, 01:52:43 pm: You surely didn't expect that it would?
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: andy_e on July 01, 2005, 02:10:31 pm: that's not bad film... looks a nice line. just found out how to get wmv files to work on the school computers! :D
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: webbo on July 01, 2005, 02:20:51 pm: it would be hell of a let down if he turns out to be some super gentic freak who can climb v15 30ft above deadly landing.i hope he turns out to be an 80 year old who needs assistance with toileting.
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: andy_e on July 01, 2005, 02:26:03 pm: sorry, freak it is!
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Stubbs on July 01, 2005, 02:31:26 pm: Quote from: "andi_e"
sorry, freak it is!

on what basis?
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: andy_e on July 01, 2005, 02:36:04 pm: that people who climb Vhard are all barrel-chested monsters
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: tc on July 01, 2005, 02:50:21 pm: He doesn't.
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: webbo on July 01, 2005, 03:15:29 pm: why is it that all these young folk from the north west are convinced that si is a wad rather than an incontinent geriatic. :fluffle:
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Stubbs on July 01, 2005, 03:42:05 pm: To young to have developed the correct amount of cynicism yet?
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: tc on July 01, 2005, 03:45:46 pm: Quote from: "webbo"
why is it that all these young folk from the north west are convinced that si is a wad rather than an incontinent geriatic. :fluffle:

The answer is here:

"Dave MacLeod often comments on how he 'can hang on V15s abroad but can't get off the floor on my top end problems'. & the fella is no slouch. I do focus my work though at this end [V11 up], towards equalizing the V-grade to the uk tech grade rather than hooking up cruxs in an outing you need food drops, a portaledge & a supply chopper on; & I stress, not becuase I flat-line on duration outings either. So maybe this is why."

Obvious, innit? :roll:
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Mr.Burns on July 01, 2005, 03:49:01 pm: Even though he is barking and most likely not climbing V15 you've got to love his use of the English Language!! the guy is a gent.
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Graeme on July 01, 2005, 03:50:37 pm: Quote
towards equalizing the V-grade to the uk tech grade

Does this mean I should be seeing 15b in a few years time then?
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Stubbs on July 01, 2005, 03:55:22 pm: Quote from: "Mr.Burns"
you've got to love his use of the English Language!!

Agree, if talking a good one got you up problems, he'd be the best boulderer in the world hands down.

Just a thought, but if you climb V15, and in his own words "I do focus my work though at this end [V11 up]", what sort of grade do you reckon he could flash fairly confidently?
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Mr.Burns on July 01, 2005, 04:03:10 pm: V5? in most areas, on Skye... above fridge sizes boulders...english 7a! so about V5 then!
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Mr.Burns on July 01, 2005, 04:36:05 pm: I think he must be able to climb pretty hard, maybe not V15 (but he could still prove us all wrong) but still quite hard.
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: AndyR on July 01, 2005, 04:39:20 pm: Quote from: "tc"
Quote from: "webbo"
why is it that all these young folk from the north west are convinced that si is a wad rather than an incontinent geriatic. :fluffle:

The answer is here:

"Dave MacLeod often comments on how he 'can hang on V15s abroad but can't get off the floor on my top end problems'. & the fella is no slouch. I do focus my work though at this end [V11 up], towards equalizing the V-grade to the uk tech grade rather than hooking up cruxs in an outing you need food drops, a portaledge & a supply chopper on; & I stress, not becuase I flat-line on duration outings either. So maybe this is why."

Obvious, innit? :roll:

Genius.
That clears it up nicely.
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: AndyR on July 01, 2005, 04:43:03 pm: I like this clip from stonecountry:
"Dave MacLeod visited Si O'Conor's unrepeated testpieces in Lewis, pulling off holds and failing (prob. the wrong word to use, failing better and better, maybe) on Trace Element and expressing his bafflement at how to climb this impending line at the Butt of Lewis. Hopefully Si will provide us with a sneak video preview of the crux sequence this year."

Nicely understated.
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Stubbs on July 01, 2005, 04:45:17 pm: Genius. That request for some footage of at least the crux section seems to have been repeated every time Si sends in a new problem.
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: tc on July 05, 2005, 03:19:32 pm: Top blog:

http://www.-v15-.blogspot.com/

and another Font 8b :shock: goes down
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: Fiend on July 05, 2005, 04:46:21 pm: Quote
Secondly, the name fits alot of those who's soul intention appears to be to spend their lives sparking off flames of useless rhetoric in climbing forums & pointless bitching matches, throwing un-centered witless insults at any positive achievment that happens by, & shit at otherwise clean windows. Paper Tigers come in several forms for me, but the latter is the most ineffectual.

W3rd :huh:
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: andy bowie on July 27, 2005, 02:13:14 pm: "tiny crimps evolved & a finger flake became a big high sloper after frenzied levering." (talking about Paper Tigers)

Does this mean with a hammer and chisel?!
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: andy bowie on July 27, 2005, 02:14:44 pm: "Psychotic wire brushng also produced tiny edges"

is this not, um, a bit wrong? i mean i'm not new age or anything but i was under the impression that that was against the ten commandments, no?
Title: Nice vid on Stone Country
Post by: cofe on July 27, 2005, 04:35:17 pm: Quote from: "andy bowie"

is this not, um, a bit wrong?

only if it happens in the real world...