UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Bonjoy on April 25, 2005, 02:26:47 pm
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We've got a winter bouldering orientated ticklist thing going on, but what are you keen to get done for the other six months while the grit's too warm? Limestone bouldering? Moorland grit? Classic trad? Sport routage? Give up climbing and learn to surf?
At the moment wht's inspiring me:
Mecca - Finish what i've started, if the undercut ever dries
Gordale - Get stuck into some big stuff, maybe the Caveroutes and Supercool
Breach of the Peace - Massive exposure at Malham, footless moves on a roof at the top of a 200 foot overhang wall (it doesn't climb the whole height of this BTW)
Urgent Action or the Thumb - More big classic sport routing at Kilnsey
Positron or other of the classic E5s - Finally get round to doing some classics on main wall at Gogarth
Grinah - Get up to some of the fabled Bleaklow bouldering areas
London Wall - Has been on the list for several years now but never seem to get round to it.
Right Wall - Again another super-classic thats burning a hole in my ticklist
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ben's roof
a short sport 8a
banana peel, an 8 pitch granite slab 5.8 at squamish
some classic squamish problems
cosmic wheels
the thing (now we are really getting fanciful - anyone got ni beta?)
but really any shady non-sweaty climbing will do.
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I take it from the veritable avalanche of replies that the rest of you will be mooching around a midge infested Plantation moaning about bad skin and greasy conditions :roll:
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having been to malham i'm totally psyched!
gotta go back, wanna tick the crag maybe 7c( should do chisseling next time i'm up)
the machine. if the start dries and if i get any stamina.
to stop being a gaylord and actually climb witha string, rather than lways going to the tor, and bouldering... which i'm going to do in about 5 mins.
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I was gonn ahead up to the lakes with my moderately graded ticklist to do stuff like Beastmaster, V5 and Voodoo People, V7 at Warton Pinnacle.
With trips to Carrock, Kentmere, Sampson Stones and the like thrown in for good measure.
If it gets really bad I may go for my annual trip to Stoney, or training at Almscliff when I really can't be arsed.
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I take it from the veritable avalanche of replies that the rest of you will be mooching around a midge infested Plantation moaning about bad skin and greasy conditions :roll:
Not at all, just dont have any specific routes. Planning on heading up to Sheigra and Reiff again this year, plus getting on some of the mountain classics before midges descend. Make a few trips down to Northumberland and Yorkshire. And plans to develop a few bouldering spots that people have their eyes on, plus visit a few more of the places in Stone Country. Be glad if I am back up to E1/E2 level again by the time I go to NZ in September.
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well, unless I find a partner for some trad (trying to summon the courage to place an ad on ukclimbing), I'll be sacrifing heinous amounts of skin to the bouldering gods. Maybe start venturing to Earl - from Sunday's visit it looks like the best option (north facing, windy). Shaded places like Kyloe 'In (Hitchhikers is a project) and Shipley Glen (Red Baron) will probably become sickeningly overfamiliar too.
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Cider Soak and Empire of the Sun at Anstey's,
Tenessee and Red Medicine at Coastgaurd
Mark of the Beast and Adrenochrome at Lulworth
Toltec Twostep and Limbo Dancer at Hound Tor
Aviation and Interrogation at Haytor
Sadly my current fitness levels do not fill me with optimism, still, at least theres swimming next to all my sport targets should sun and lactic acid defeat me.
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Shaded places like Kyloe 'In (Hitchhikers is a project) and Shipley Glen (Red Baron) will probably become sickeningly overfamiliar too.
don't think kyloe-in is too shaded no more, what with most of the trees been iced.
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I take it from the veritable avalanche of replies that the rest of you will be mooching around a midge infested Plantation moaning about bad skin and greasy conditions :roll:
just got back from havin a really good session at the plantation actually monsiuer lovejoy, even tho it was hotter than the sun still got some shit done (twister & honary caley) and I feel proper fuct now.
only thing I'm really pyched for is weedkiller traverse cos I fell off the slap last move 3 times t'other day pumped out of my mind and I've not done it before... oh yeah and the board
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Now that its becoming a trade route i think i'll try hubble.
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Good idea to post a summer wish list then look back and see how much of it you actually did. Going to be in North Wales all summer hopefully and get loads done round here. Got a house but no job as yet though.
For bouldering its got to be Lou Ferrino, Cosmic Wheels and Lizard King.
For trad the list is endless but Right Wall, Positron, Freeborn Man and The Great Wall are definitely ones I want to get on.
For sport hopefully redpoint I've Been A Bad Bad Boy or Statement of Youth depending on whether I can find a similarly psyched belayer.
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Actually do some trad climbing, whereas last year I did next to nothing, although not having a trad partner for after work doesn't help. Anyone keen for the lancs quarries mid-week?
Do some harder sports climbing, actually redpointing stuff, and hopefully get into the swing of it all.
Go to the lakes bouldering to all the exciting new venues, and also enjoy some of the easier trad there.
Get some stamina, which might come a bit easier once Longridge opens again next month, still got Bend of the Rainbow and Big Marine to do.
Mr moose - Earl is shady, but if there isn't much wind or it's blowing over the crag the midgies can be unbearable. I went home from the crag several times last year after work, because I couldn't be bothered putting up with it. Some of the problems start getting the sun earlier as the sun gets higher too, eg Handy Andy's didn't get the sun on any holds until about 7:20 ish today and was quite cool, but in a few months it will get it earlier. Cooler crag than most, but pick your days.
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Boysens Groove, Pass.
Kingdom of Rain stand-up, Sheep Pen.
Klems Arete, Sheep Pen.
Karma Sutra, Pac Man.
Lucky Boy, Pex Hill.
Pit Bull, Pex Hill.
Everything on the Mushroom Boulder and Purple Slab at Carrock Fell.
Some eliminates in the V5/V6 region at Frodsham.
Get to the mini grit craglet at Trawsfynnydd...
Oh, yeah, and get a job
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Hi Jonboy, you not been to Grinnah Stones? They're good, but I'll tell ya, if you think it's going to be the best bouldering in the Peak in the nicest location in England, you might be slightly disappointed. It is beautiful, but I thought it was at the top end of the scale of esoteric bouldering. I think you will have a better day out if you bear this in mind. Apparently there's a shooting hut nearby. Would be a good place to spend a sunner evening.
As for tick lists, I've always wanted to tick what i thought was a E5 list, a good solid test on lots of different things around the country.
White Wand, London Wall, Tales of Yankee Power, Central Wall at Blue Scar, Deliverance at Gordale, The Cumbrian, The Risk Business on Craig A'Bhancair, Naked Ape, Positron, Right Wall, Splitstream, A Midsummer Night's Dream, Barbarella, Il Duce, Darkinbad and Caveman.
I've done some but would like to have done them all.
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Good list, would make a great road trip! Have only done one of those so far. Have obviously still got a long way to go on the road to true E5 mastery.
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grimer is quite right about the grinah stones. the bouldering is ok in a good setting, an hour's fast walk from the road. it's ok, no more than that. however knowing your penchant for shit esoteria it will probably be the best venue you have ever been to
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an hour's fast walk from the road
wtf were you doing for two and a half hours then???? Oh, I remember, slipping around in peat groughs in your party shoes whilst cursing the world and everyone in it.
Yeah Grinah stones are way overrated. Load of scrittly rubbish.
White Wand, London Wall, Tales of Yankee Power, Central Wall at Blue Scar, Deliverance at Gordale, The Cumbrian, The Risk Business on Craig A'Bhancair, Naked Ape, Positron, Right Wall, Splitstream, A Midsummer Night's Dream, Barbarella, Il Duce, Darkinbad and Caveman.
Stone is conspicuous by its absence there. And int Il duce E4? And Caveman E6? Ah well, you can warm up on one and finish on the other.
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wtf were you doing for two and a half hours then????
following orders. shit , forgot it took that long. yeh, it's only half hour walk jon
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We've got a winter bouldering orientated ticklist thing going on, but what are you keen to get done for the other six months while the grit's too warm?
I've never really put any effort into sports climbing but that's the plan for this year.. grade wise, I'd like to get a 7c ticked but really want to do all the good 7b's and some 7b+'s in the Peak and Yorkshire.
Trad wise - Great Wall (well the 1st pitch anyway); Titans Wall; Left Wall (never done it!) and maybe Right Wall if I'm going well.
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Regain some fitness after all the grit routes.
Funnily enough Right Wall is on my list too. Usually get a lot of routage through the summer but we're expecting our first child in July so we'll see how that goes. :lol:
Want to do Adjudicator Wall and a re-match with Our Father, did the low crux okay but being a short arse struggled (fell off a lot!) making the reach into the undercut. :oops:
Do more sport climbing in this counrty.
Do more in the Lakes district, only been up a few times and get back to N Wales.
Much as it galls me, we're thinking off having a regular trip down the wall through the summer to maintain (claw back) some fitness.
J :)
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The summer is (almost) upon us, for me its just the small matter of finals to deal with...a minor glitch I feel.
As for the wishlist: To be in full working order would be nice, but failing that I'd like to do a shit load of climbing (Alpine, trad, bouldering, DWS) and have a shit load of fun in the process.
As for sport climbing, whats that all about?
Mince.
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Bless me father for I have sinned...I have a confession to make.
Yesterday I climbed a route.
On limestone.
And I quite enjoyed it, but I feel dirty.
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like being with a hooker?
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I wouldn't know...
thinking about it, more like eating a big feisty doner kebab.
Or like the Pot Noodle horn?
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So... it's June 06th.. how are the Summer tick-lists going?
Mine's going to plan having redpointed my first 7b on Saturday (Daylight Robbery) and flashing two 7a's for the first time - yay!
Bouldering wise have had a good day out at Ysgo a couple of weeks back too flashing Fast Cars and doing Popcorn Party 2nd try - couldn't get anywhere on Jawbreaker tho' & currently grappling with the gnarl of the Kudos wall problems at Rubicon.
Haven't done much trad aside from a great day out at Cratcliffe leadnig the Fern and Boot Hills.
How's everyone else going?
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I did a 7c at malham, then got on raindogs which I had some good links on and combined with a new sequence everything was looking good... until my annual bout of injury reared its ugly head, so since then i've had nearly 3 weeks off, and have been doing a little puntering the last week, pain free! come on! oh and I've been eating a lot of barbque, doing running, yoga and press ups. south africa next week, so i'm preparing to tick rock lands! (maybe the routes! the hardest is 7c)
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south africa next week, so i'm preparing to tick rock lands! (maybe the routes! the hardest is 7c)
Actually, there's an 8a+..
But you'll be hard pressed to find a belayer.
Anyway, after I give you the tour de blocs, you won't even want to rope up.
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i'm so psyched i'm gonna burst!!!!!
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We've got a winter bouldering orientated ticklist thing going on, but what are you keen to get done for the other six months while the grit's too warm? Limestone bouldering? Moorland grit? Classic trad? Sport routage? Give up climbing and learn to surf?
At the moment wht's inspiring me:
Mecca - Finish what i've started, if the undercut ever dries Have got past last years highpoint but still no send! Have been having a break from trying recently, as it was pissing me off.
Gordale - Get stuck into some big stuff, maybe the Caveroutes and Supercool Had a great day there not long back, did Face Route and Pierepoint. Caveroutes still wet
Breach of the Peace - Massive exposure at Malham, footless moves on a roof at the top of a 200 foot overhang wall (it doesn't climb the whole height of this BTW) Haven't been on yet, but have bagged a fair few other good ones at Malham including Raindogs, Overnight Sensation, Herbie, New Dawn, Chiselling the Dragon, Mighty Fine Ass, Obsession, Chocolate Logger.
Urgent Action or the Thumb - More big classic sport routing at KilnseyStill wet
Positron or other of the classic E5s - Finally get round to doing some classics on main wall at Gogarth Gogarth trip got rained off but another is in the planning stages
Grinah - Get up to some of the fabled Bleaklow bouldering areas. Haven't been
London Wall - Has been on the list for several years now but never seem to get round to it. Haven't been
Right Wall - Again another super-classic thats burning a hole in my ticklist. Haven't been
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i'm so psyched i'm gonna burst!!!!!
Just don't overdo it. Remember to sit back and enjoy the wine too. Also biltong is a good remedy for any injuries. Have fun and remember to keep one eye on the path when walking. You never know what is going to be lying there.
PS Just had a top weekend in Reiff, which was one of my summer ticklists. Sunny weather, and enough wind to ground all midge squadrons.
Pity the beautiful beach at the campsite failed to produce any waves. I have no idea if it ever does, I guess it's wishful thinking.
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stellenbosch ranks highly on the tick list...
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>Mecca - Finish what i've started, if the undercut ever dries Have got past last years highpoint but still no send! Have been having a break from trying recently, as it was pissing me off.
I thought a multi-year seige was de-rigeur for said route..
Good effort on all those Malham ticks!
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i'm so psyched i'm gonna burst!!!!!
Just don't overdo it. Remember to sit back and enjoy the wine too. Also biltong is a good remedy for any injuries. Have fun and remember to keep one eye on the path when walking. You never know what is going to be lying there.
Or chilling in the bushes.
I seem to be laid low with tick bite fever.
damn.
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Summer ticklist:
1. Regain use of both lower limbs.
2. Paint lots of toy soldiers in the meantime.
:roll:
Okay, assuming 1. happens then as always I am very keen to get out and climb routes as always as that's where my heart lies. I'm still hoping to visit the following places (assuming I find the right people to climb with which as always for me is pretty much the crux)...
North Wales:
Gogarth - North Stack and Rhoscolyn
Idwal Walls
Slate - Rainbow Area and nearby
Dinas Cromlech
Pembroke
Carreg Hyll Drem
Moelwyns
Tremadog
--- and other accessible crags
The Lakes:
Black Crag, Borrowdale
Cathedral Quarry, Langdale
Gouther Crag, Eastern Lakes
Armathwaite, Eden Valley
Castle Rock, Eastern Lakes
Neckband and White Gyll, Langdale
High Crag, Buttermere
--- and other accessible crags
Northumberland / North East:
Back Bowden
Bowden Doors
South Yardhope
East Woodburn
Wainstones
Kyloe In
Jack Rock
--- various other outcrops
Lancashire:
Wiltons
Shooter's Nab
Scotland:
Various outcrops near Aberdeen and Inverness, Glen Nevis etc.
Peak / Yorkshire:
Usual limestone and high up grit bollox.
Fingers crossed :wink:
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Ticklist for this summer:
Bouldering in the lakes, Sampson stones still to go, but I've been up to bowderstone and carrock fell so not doing too bad in that respect, plus did my first few V8s. Went to wales one weekend too and although the weather in the pass was bad all 3 days, we still managed to get a bit done on the coasts and got a few good ticks at Porth Ysgo.
Trad after work, but I've only been once so far and said that I would last year and didn't. Hopefully spend a few weekends in the lakes trad climbing too.
Sports climbing in yorkshire, just some milage really, start leading well, get to grips with redpointing and falling off onto bolts. Been to giggleswick and Kilnsey and now my main bouldering partner has decided he likes sports climbing I'll probably do a lot of this over summer. I've got some routes at Chapel head
Scar and Trow Gill that I want to tick once I've built some stamina up. Also want to visit Malham, Gordale, Troller's Gill, Yew Cougar. Grade wise I'm aiming for ~7b+ this year, have to see what I'm leading like after a few months as I've not really put much time into sports climbing in the past.
So still a lot to do...
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south africa next week, so i'm preparing to tick rock lands! (maybe the routes! the hardest is 7c)
Have you been keeping up with pdf guides on www.bouldering.co.za ?
They seem to put them up, then remove them? Check which ones you have, and which ones you need, I have downloaded a few. PM me if you want them.
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Hopefully get the nice shady wooly bear done at harrisons (any short arse beta for the middle bit welcome)
Then finally get up harvey oswald at milestone, which may mean a bit less cake and a a lot more :evil:
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south africa next week, so i'm preparing to tick rock lands! (maybe the routes! the hardest is 7c)
Have you been keeping up with pdf guides on www.bouldering.co.za ?
They seem to put them up, then remove them? Check which ones you have, and which ones you need, I have downloaded a few. PM me if you want them.
I've updated the New Problems one, but Evan hasn't put it up.
If anyone wants it, give me a shout and I'll drop email science.
dom
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On our side of the pond....the wife is finally done having children, so I'm trying to attain some level of fitness. Have lost 18 pounds, am heavily psyched and been working out as only a sluggard can. Goal for the summer is to get back to sending V-6 in one session, for the fall start working on the V-8 list. 47 years old now, don't have much time left to do those classic projects!
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Hey Blunk, how did you lose all that weight? I usually get ill with something, lose a stone and slowly put it back on; although my latest weight loss appears to be staying off, and I'm the lightest I've been for about 6-7 years.
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47 years old now, don't have much time left to do those classic projects!
What can I say? :cry:
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47 years old now, don't have much time left to do those classic projects!
What can I say? :cry:
3 years more than i've got. :oldgit:
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Hey Blunk, how did you lose all that weight? etc.
BTW, I think Fingers has got some dieting tips. That might help.
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Dry bowl of cereal for breakfast.
Apple for lunch.
1 slice of bread and a bowl of vegetables and rice for tea.
1 Chicken Breast every other day.
Repeat for a month. :wink:
Drink some raw eggs first thing as well, I have no idea what it does but Rocky did it so it must be good :wink:
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It gives you Salmonella. People have been advised against doing it for years.
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a body-building type at work told me that eating raw eggs is pretty poor nutritionally - summat about the eggy proteins having to be cooked first for muscle building. Not sure whether the SCIENCE made much sense though (surely they'd be denatured by stomach acids anyway... mind you if that were generally the case we'd be able to eat raw meat...hmmm). Still, the chap who told me was VERY wide so I'm not arguing.
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Eggs with the Lion mark are guaranteed Salmonella free because the Chickens are vaccinated (according to the food science program on saturday mornings). So it's safe but nonetheless I think eating it raw is just a waste of a delicious egg - fry the fucker.
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have i journeyed back into the mid 80's, all this talk of weightloss :lol:
Anyway, having not been climbing at all for the last 2 months my current goal is to do 7ft flat to flat jump :wink: Its a biking thing
Check this out
crazy bmx'er (http://www.big-boys.com/articles/longbmxjump.html)
To do that jump on a full suspension bike is hard, to do it on a bmx is crazy. He lands well long as well on the transition.
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Sorry, I wasn't being anything remotely near serious there, just trying to wind Blondie up.
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Sorry, I wasn't being anything remotely near serious there, just trying to wind Blondie up.
By telling me raw eggs give you salmonella? Oh you prankster, you... :roll:
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Check this out
crazy bmx'er (http://www.big-boys.com/articles/longbmxjump.html)
To do that jump on a full suspension bike is hard, to do it on a bmx is crazy. He lands well long as well on the transition.
Holy shit :shock:
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have i journeyed back into the mid 80's.....
I've lost 3/4 (that's three quarter not three or four..) of a stone since Christmas and I've been wearing tights whilst sport climbing in Chee Dale :-)
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I've lost 3/4 (that's three quarter not three or four..) of a stone since Christmas and I've been wearing tights whilst sport climbing in Chee Dale :-)
Ah, but do you have a head band? and a collection of bad knitted jumpers!? :wink:
Well, its been a chuffing great start to summer - I have actually done some routes at Rubicon and Raven Tor!
Suspect it may be too hot soon for much really hard stuff to get done, however I would like to do the Weedkiller/Chimes link - thats cool, the complete chimes of freedom, pump up the power and caviar too. Went on the Sissy too, but found it both hard and unpleasant so not too psyched on that one. Would love to go back to Cheedale and have a look that thing of Ru's - Kaliyuga (sp?) - people keep wincing when I say that tho...
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By telling me raw eggs give you salmonella? Oh you prankster, you... :roll:
Well the other two took me seriously. You, on the other hand are clearly totally up to speed with things like dieting and training.
And good new music featuring fat ex boy band members.
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Check this out
crazy bmx'er (http://www.big-boys.com/articles/longbmxjump.html)
To do that jump on a full suspension bike is hard, to do it on a bmx is crazy. He lands well long as well on the transition.
Cool!
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Routes wise - Raindogs, Vogue and possibly GBH at Malham. Grooved Arete, The Ashes, The Bulge and Under the Thumb at Kilnsey. Lots of onsighting at Trow Gill.
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my wish for the summer is that it doesn't piss down every day like last year.
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Doylo your wish is at once by far the best but also possibly the least likely...
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Fiend, Doylo doesn't really care if it rains all summer, because he knows he'll be locked into an epic redpoint link in the rain-proof Cave of Eternal Justice, just like everybody else in North Wales. 60 non-eliminate gut-busting problems and links between V4 and V14 - why climb anywhere else?
(Actually, I'm off up the Pass...at least until it rains again.)
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i'm with you chris. i've arrived in south africa... or is this wales? i don't know i can't see out of my glasses
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quit yer whining. the rain is supposed to stop tomorrow. I'll tourguide you to the best (and hardest to find) 7C at the topside on thursday..
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You have a choice, either the occasional rainy day and cool temps at this time of year, or roasting hot in mid summer. Sit back and smell the fynbos.
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Fiend, Doylo doesn't really care if it rains all summer, because he knows he'll be locked into an epic redpoint link in the rain-proof Cave of Eternal Justice, just like everybody else in North Wales. 60 non-eliminate gut-busting problems and links between V4 and V14 - why climb anywhere else?
(Actually, I'm off up the Pass...at least until it rains again.)
He's right, i've just come back from there now and it is gonna take all bastard summer cos i'm spent after three redpoints. Don't forget Simon the Cave was wet last August, theres only so much rain even she can take!
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I'll tourguide you to the best (and hardest to find) 7C at the topside on thursday
whats saltbeef gonna do when you've finished on it? :wink:
ps. for those who thought i climbed badly in font you're lucky you weren't here tonight
.
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I'll tourguide you to the best (and hardest to find) 7C at the topside on thursday
whats saltbeef gonna do when you've finished on it? :wink:
.
lol..
trust me, I'll be the one flailing...
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The next route I am looking forward to is the oh so familiar 20 minute drive to the Northern General for my NEXT x-ray happy happy joy joy there better be some fucking sign of some fucking healing this time <insert very grumpy smiley here>
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We've got a winter bouldering orientated ticklist thing going on, but what are you keen to get done for the other six months while the grit's too warm? Limestone bouldering? Moorland grit? Classic trad? Sport routage? Give up climbing and learn to surf?
At the moment wht's inspiring me:
Mecca - Finish what i've started, if the undercut ever dries Have got past last years highpoint but still no send! Have been having a break from trying recently, as it was pissing me off.
Gordale - Get stuck into some big stuff, maybe the Caveroutes and Supercool Had a great day there not long back, did Face Route and Pierepoint. Caveroutes still wet
Breach of the Peace - Massive exposure at Malham, footless moves on a roof at the top of a 200 foot overhang wall (it doesn't climb the whole height of this BTW) Haven't been on yet, but have bagged a fair few other good ones at Malham including Raindogs, Overnight Sensation, Herbie, New Dawn, Chiselling the Dragon, Mighty Fine Ass, Obsession, Chocolate Logger.
Urgent Action or the Thumb - More big classic sport routing at KilnseyStill wet Have done the Thumb. Am working on UA this weekend
Positron or other of the classic E5s - Finally get round to doing some classics on main wall at Gogarth Gogarth trip got rained off but another is in the planning stages
Grinah - Get up to some of the fabled Bleaklow bouldering areas. Haven't been
London Wall - Has been on the list for several years now but never seem to get round to it. Haven't been
Right Wall - Again another super-classic thats burning a hole in my ticklist. Haven't been
Have generally not done very well on the trad front. In truth it's well hard for me to get much trad done as I mostly climb with my girlfiend and its easier for us both to get stuff done if we go sport climbing.
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I wish I hadn't gone to Cyrn Las last week to do the Skull, 18 years I've been waiting to do that route and I end up dogging most of it :cry:
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I wish I hadn't gone to Cyrn Las last week to do the Skull, 18 years I've been waiting to do that route and I end up dogging most of it :cry:
Tyler - is this you in a different form?
If so - are you qualified to be on a bouldering website?