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places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: gritstoner on April 07, 2005, 10:31:59 am

Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: gritstoner on April 07, 2005, 10:31:59 am
Hi there,
am new to the area and want to go bouldering on sandstone this saturday. Was thinking about Bowles or High Rocks, but don't really know the quality/number of problems there. I kind of rely on trains to get there, so what's best this time of year that can be walked from Eridge or Tunbridge Wells station? Glad to hook up with anyone who feels like it this w/e. Cheers,

Rob
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: Bubba on April 07, 2005, 11:01:04 am
Try sending a PM to Ian H - he's a local to the area but I've not seen him online for a little while.
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: chappers on April 08, 2005, 04:02:10 pm
was out yesterday. weather was mint. all rock at harrisons was dry.
not walked to bowls or owt from eridge. but harrisons is at the end of eridge. easy walk. - u been there? good little circut of probs on north boulder. some nice solos at the edge.
PM me if you are deffo going, i could meet ya possibly.
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on April 08, 2005, 05:15:58 pm
sent you an email , hope it is useful .

destination has to be high rocks for me though

if you do go to the north boulder though, borrow somebodys jingo guide and look up a problem called finger flow, for me this is the best problem on the boulder about font 7a+ is my guess .
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on April 09, 2005, 06:40:20 pm
finger flow 7a but quality

just bacj from bowles in good condition a little sandy, will be at north boulder tomorow at about 3 if you are interested
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: chappers on April 12, 2005, 01:21:41 pm
what/where is finger flow? i dont have a guide, done most of the obvious lines on the boulder.
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on April 12, 2005, 08:17:39 pm
1 meter left of the ordinary 5c route which goes up the center of the main face

not to be confused with torque wrench which is slightly more left agaian.
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on April 12, 2005, 08:20:50 pm
: torque wrench involving ugly moves on finger locks
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on April 12, 2005, 10:50:08 pm
Ian you around in the week my boy starts nursery tomorow so looking to get some action in now the rocks are almost in condition. Im looking for people to climb with on wed and thursdays during the day
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on April 12, 2005, 11:06:16 pm
Quote from: "neil@canaryclimbs"
Ian you around in the week my boy starts nursery tomorow so looking to get some action in now the rocks are almost in condition. Im looking for people to climb with on wed and thursdays during the day


well i work shifts so i dont have regular days, but am around fairly often midweek daytime
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: chappers on April 12, 2005, 11:17:27 pm
yeah, nice problem. did one just left of the three cracks up the face (5c original thing) that it??. didnt do that torque wrench thing u chat about, not into that kinda thing at all.
what grade does the main overhanging bit get, right (round the corner) from 5c original. right arete, sloper wit left, horrible top out.?? font 6bish?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on April 12, 2005, 11:54:26 pm
that problem if its the nose you talk about, can feel 7a or 6a depends on the day
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on April 26, 2005, 10:14:35 pm
a couple of high rocks pics


(http://server3.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-Hrp.jpg)

(http://server2.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-hiroxpro.jpg)
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on April 28, 2005, 09:46:20 am
what problem is that?

does it go from the sitter or standing looks good
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on April 28, 2005, 11:23:47 pm
it not named or graded yet , but feels around the 7b mark
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on April 29, 2005, 11:11:04 am
really nice one, i had a look at it the other week, i was going to come back to it. but been climbing at eridge alot and totally forgor about it, might get up there and try it this week.

What are the conditions down at high rocks like at the mo after all this shitty rain
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on June 06, 2005, 09:04:54 pm
pic of anew project on sandstone
(http://server3.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-sspro1.jpg)

hopefully get it done soon
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on June 07, 2005, 04:08:06 pm
were is this?

you kep pulling them out of the bag, looks like another dyno (lol)

That thing at high rocks was fuking hard. took me ages. couldnt quite understand were to start from, is it a sitter?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on June 07, 2005, 08:59:06 pm
cant tell you where the prob is as i not done it yet.


the problem at high rocks as far as i know has only been done from a stand up
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on June 07, 2005, 09:04:55 pm
also messing around today at high rocks me and my mate added a couple of easy problems to the circuit.

these are two aretes found up the slope in the bay laft of salad days
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on June 08, 2005, 06:02:43 pm
a couple of pics from today , also posted on the bouldering pictures thread

the infidel project
(http://server3.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-infidelproject.jpg)

and magnetic

(http://server3.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-magnetic.jpg)
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on June 23, 2005, 07:54:51 pm
hey man what grade you giving magnetic, flashed this morning then coudnt do it agian. also a little unsure were to start. so i sarted on hand very low from a srunched position.

Also started working the line to the right, dont know if anyone has done. up the upside down little pockets. I had to clean it, hould be a good problem once i bag it, hard last move to break
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on June 23, 2005, 11:28:44 pm
magnetic is a bit hight dependent the bang it out slap way is prob 6c if your tall enough. the rock up method for shorties is 7a+ maybe 7b

anyway 3 new problems

ian s has done :

direct start to judy (not the crack) but 1 meter right jumping up to two small crimps then campussing

and problem to the break between leglock and crossing the rubicon, finishing at the break

no grades or names for these yet

and i have climbed the wall just left of the gob starting in the passage to finish with a high and scary topout ,  quality line prob font 6c+ no name yet

picture of new problem left of the gob , repaeted by ian s

(http://server2.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-DSC001611.jpg)
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on June 23, 2005, 11:43:10 pm
Quote from: "neil@canaryclimbs"
Also started working the line to the right, dont know if anyone has done. up the upside down little pockets. I had to clean it, hould be a good problem once i bag it, hard last move to break


me and ian saw the chalk on this today and assumed it was decoy chalk , as it  did not look climbed but as though just a bit had been dabbed on with a chalk ball .

what are you donig with your feet is the slab in ? :?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on June 24, 2005, 07:47:46 pm
i dabed chalk on it to dry it, the feet had dirt all over them, no feet on slab, pull on using undercut left, up to right hand, put right foot up and grab next pocket, thats as far as i got yeturday,
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on July 12, 2005, 11:17:47 pm
two new problems at high rocks tonight

ian s has a added a sit start to kranked  - this is "spanked" 7a - 7a +

and i have added a new problem to the wall just to the right - "superfly" font 7b
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on July 15, 2005, 12:00:21 am
a couple of pictures of superfly repeated by ian stronghill this evening

(http://server2.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-sf1.jpg)

(http://server2.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-sf2.jpg)
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on July 15, 2005, 12:23:27 am
ian also added a variation boulder problem start to salad days , this takes the undercut with the left hand as oppose to the right , and fells quite independent to the usual method
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: MrBlue on July 16, 2005, 10:30:40 pm
Quote from: "ian h"
a couple of pics from today , also posted on the bouldering pictures thread

the infidel project
(http://server3.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-infidelproject.jpg)


wondered what was going up that the other day...some people are expressing concern about the use of the engravings though, especially as it seems to be limited to certain letters! tried to argue about the one that goes up the letters to the right of craig-y-blanco, but didn't get very far. what's the infidel project reckoned to go at?

some good stuff coming out this summer, high rocks is looking amazing now...!
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on July 18, 2005, 02:26:14 pm
Quote from: "MrBlue"
]

wondered what was going up that the other day...some people are expressing concern about the use of the engravings though, especially as it seems to be limited to certain letters! tried to argue about the one that goes up the letters to the right of craig-y-blanco, but didn't get very far. what's the infidel project reckoned to go at?

some good stuff coming out this summer, high rocks is looking amazing now...!


hi matt

rekon the letters are pretty safe ,
a) the rock there is really hard
b) the letters are only being pulled really acurately
c) it is hardly likely to have tons of traffic as it is so hard to even get up to the letters let alone pull on them

+ it can hardly br worse than people standing all over them which is what happens when people climb infidel , which is much more frequently climbed

as for the grade of it, i have not got a clue , as i can get absouloutly nowhere on it, but my gues is that it is probably around font 7c
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on July 20, 2005, 01:46:48 am
probably the hardest problem of the year gone up so far , ian stronhill climbed the wall 2 meters right of salad days this evening . no name or grade as yet

i will bung a pic or two up when i get the chance
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on July 20, 2005, 08:10:07 pm
Hey man what grade you giving that superfly, did it earlier.

Also dyno right left of kinda lingers what grade is that, that was such a nice move.

Loads of good problems at the moment

The line left of superfly, is that a sitter then joing on the end of superfly, or does it go out left?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on July 21, 2005, 12:50:06 pm
there are two lines there both going from the same sitstart, spanked goes left and superfly goes right

which sequence did you use for superfly as me and ian both do it very differently ?

not sure what grade the dyno is left of kinda lingers , nice move though
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on July 21, 2005, 05:53:30 pm
Quote from: "ian h"
there are two lines there both going from the same sitstart, spanked goes left and superfly goes right

which sequence did you use for superfly as me and ian both do it very differently ?

not sure what grade the dyno is left of kinda lingers , nice move though


Found spanked really easy F6b, Superfly F6c took a few goes but went up left hand in big jug, right hand into 2 finger pocket toe hook in break, and locked of to the pocket, dyno out to little hold on the face, heel hook out right then reach for top, super cool route

Also did a few more today, did one just left again from spanked F6a maybe, easy but nice, then left again on the left hand side of the slab, that was really nice of the shitty crimps Maybe F6c, then tried the one left again. Right of salad days, Is this Ians hard one, Couldnt work out the jump to crimps, as I did it static using the two pockets as interm. Then fell off tiered.

We also did magnetic again, but this time straight to sloppers right from the pocket no break for left hand, And  also nice Sitter to an arete behind and right of dynosor, that was cool. Had agodd day today, nine problems that I havnt done before and Spotted on or two potential lines for next week

Dont really know about the grades would bve nice to have some input see how far of the mark lol :oops:

Def some nice problems down there now
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on July 22, 2005, 12:25:49 am
you really only think superfly is font 6c  :shock: we were thinking 7b

you do realise both spanked and superfly, both have sit starts  :?:

the problem left of spanked is one that we do as a warm up , but yeah about 6a is my guess

the prob on the left side of the slab is one of ian s problems , no name or grade , but feels about 7a to me


ians new problem may actually be pet cemetary but we not sure and still working it out , but sounds like you are in the right area

the problem arete behind dyno sore is the sharp arete font 6a/b from a sit
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on July 22, 2005, 01:26:38 am
a few pic of tonight


  (http://server2.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-1.jpg)

(http://server2.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-2.jpg)

(http://server2.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-DSC00476a.jpg)


i also did a new easy problem in the alcove / pit just right of bold finish , this goes at about font 6b, the real challenge still awaits to do it from the sit start , which will be seriously mega hard
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on July 22, 2005, 02:28:09 am
sourthern sandstone looks mint, just like font
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on July 22, 2005, 09:32:35 am
Quote from: "ian h"
you really only think superfly is font 6c  :shock: we were thinking 7b

you do realise both spanked and superfly, both have sit starts  :?:

the problem left of spanked is one that we do as a warm up , but yeah about 6a is my guess

the prob on the left side of the slab is one of ian s problems , no name or grade , but feels about 7a to me


ians new problem may actually be pet cemetary but we not sure and still working it out , but sounds like you are in the right area



Yes both from sitters, didnt find it that hard atall, that picture above doing the last move the hard way, swing your foot out right to a heel hook and the move to the top is easy. I lthought it was easy cause my sort of route, big moves between big holds. Mind you I was having a good day everything felt so easy. but 7a tops in my opinion


The slab one was wierd, took about 10 goes fealing desperate then when I got it it felt reel easy, maybe right on 7a

If the last picture there is ians problem then yes i tried this sma way the picture shows

you around next week, be interesting to hook up


but for now im of the raven tor for the weekend do some real climbing lol :lol:
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on July 27, 2005, 10:07:36 pm
(http://server2.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-hione.jpg)
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 07, 2005, 06:40:19 pm
ian stronghill put up the hardest problem of the year and possibly the hardest problem at the crag yesterday !

The new line is unnamed at the moment but is a direct start to renaissance and is probably at least font 7c, possibly harder .

i will stick a couple of pictures up soon when i get the chance to get them off my camera

 :8)  :8)  :8)
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 09, 2005, 02:11:12 pm
a couple of pictures of ian stronghills new problem at high rocks

(http://server3.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-s4.jpg)


(http://server3.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-s2.jpg)
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: a dense loner on August 09, 2005, 02:50:59 pm
looks good, what's he called it, the red cross?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 10, 2005, 12:31:55 am
also Ches this evening put up a new roped route a couple of meters right of designer label , this goes up the central groove / pod line

i think he is offering a english tech 6b or 6c grade for it , not sure what name he is giving it ?  but will post back with further details and maybe a pic soon.
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: Carnage on August 10, 2005, 01:45:44 am
Good on the lanky fucker!
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: jimfish on August 10, 2005, 09:18:10 am
i am going to change this section of uk bouldering to the ian h gallery what do you think. good pics again dude keep on cranking speak soon
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 10, 2005, 01:34:06 pm
lol

are you still coming down tomorrow ?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on August 10, 2005, 08:13:21 pm
Hey Ians new prob is quality, best line of the year, 7c is fair

It was reapeted earlier today

problem left of it is nice aswell,

good effort

keep em coming
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 10, 2005, 09:34:02 pm
Quote from: "neil@canaryclimbs"
Hey Ians new prob is quality, best line of the year, 7c is fair

It was reapeted earlier today

problem left of it is nice aswell,

good effort

keep em coming


Good to here its repeated and grading is about right ! i had heard you were down with someone strong the other day, so i take it that they did it ?

problem left ? take it you mean the usual start of renaissance font 6c , or pammy 7a ?


anything else get done ?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on August 10, 2005, 09:43:05 pm
i thought the probem just left was about 6b

yes ians other problem right of salad days was repeated by a man in his trainers lol  :lol:

but not much done weather has been to hot, couple of things in the pipe line


what grade does the problem below second gerenation get
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 10, 2005, 09:47:19 pm
pet cemetary hardly involves presision footwork , but quite impressive anyway, any comments on the grade for that one ?

hope no fragile holds broke ? trainers and all that  :?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on August 10, 2005, 09:49:18 pm
7b+ ish does that sound about right?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 10, 2005, 09:50:26 pm
Quote from: "neil@canaryclimbs"
i thought the probem just left was about 6b


that will be the regular renaissance start then !!!
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on August 10, 2005, 09:50:54 pm
which problem is pammy?????


had a good go at the direct start into chimera, has anyone done it?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 10, 2005, 09:52:43 pm
well 7b+ is what i had thought , although i not done it yet, i can hit the top flatty/ jug regularly, but ian thinks it not that hard maybe 7b  :?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 10, 2005, 09:57:19 pm
Quote from: "neil@canaryclimbs"
which problem is pammy?????


had a good go at the direct start into chimera, has anyone done it?


the blunt arete on the buttress just left of the renaissance bloc (where ians new one is ) or 2 meter right of second generation - sit start up to the break.

7a or maybe 7a+

direct to chimera as far as i know not been climbed, that is seriously hard and been tried by various people, and is thought to be up in the font 8's

if that gets get the video evidence for that one , lol
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on August 10, 2005, 10:00:46 pm
right, thats the problem, yes did that, thought about 7a really good problem,


dont worry if chimera start does get done, then they will be a camera :lol:  :lol:

but seriously, there are holds on it big enough to pull on just getting of the ground thats the hard bit lol im going to have a play tomorow you around
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 10, 2005, 10:03:36 pm
i thought getiing off the ground up to the small lay off crimp is the easier bit, holding it and getting to the break is another matter

will be down tomorrow late afternoon
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on August 10, 2005, 10:05:24 pm
there is a really good crimp just above that, then good footers to the break should be a good problem, once done
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 10, 2005, 10:07:20 pm
hmmmmmmm only 1 vertical crimp in the center of the wall as i remember :?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 10, 2005, 10:10:44 pm
you should put some pictures up would be better than just having the ones that i post , lol

more interesting for me anyway
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on August 10, 2005, 10:39:09 pm
Quote from: "ian h"
you should put some pictures up would be better than just having the ones that i post , lol

more interesting for me anyway



yes maybe i will oneday, i just havnt figured this gallery lark out yet


it does seem to be ians sandstone gallery now rather than its original topic heading :lol:
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 10, 2005, 10:53:42 pm
well i realise that sandstone is a minoity thing , so just figured it is better to keep it all in one place rather than spread it all over the site
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on August 10, 2005, 11:07:38 pm
Quote from: "ian h"
well i realise that sandstone is a minoity thing , so just figured it is better to keep it all in one place rather than spread it all over the site
:8)  :lol:
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: jimfish on August 11, 2005, 08:38:50 am
is it me or does neil@canaryclimbs repeat everything. Has he done any of his own problems can some one please let me know thank you
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: a dense loner on August 11, 2005, 09:22:53 am
what's wrong with repeating problems? sheffield would be a ghost town if you had to put up your own
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: jimfish on August 11, 2005, 12:26:40 pm
being new to all this it seem as soon as some one climbs something he has done it and got the t shirt i might be wrong but thats how it looks from where i am sitting
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on August 11, 2005, 01:40:27 pm
Quote from: "jimfish"
being new to all this it seem as soon as some one climbs something he has done it and got the t shirt i might be wrong but thats how it looks from where i am sitting




Hey maybe i do repeat them, whats wrong with that?????, least im getting of my fat arse and going and doing them.

But one thing I dont have time to go and clean them up, I have a few projects dotted around so whatch this space........

Anyway its not like the problems are rock hard, font 6b to 7b, everman and his dog could climb them


why dont you get down and do some!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :wink:  :wink:
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: jimfish on August 11, 2005, 07:31:02 pm
I do get down there, every now and then and I have a few lines of my own, snowdrop direct being one of them.As for the comment about the grades, surely its about the climbing not the grade

As for the comment about  " any man and his dog climbing  7b.." I find this comment elitist and very patronising.  I have climbed at a reasonably high grade for a few years now, however I enjoy climbing with people that climb at all abilities. Its not about the grade,its about the enjoyment of the sport. I am only saying what i see, the evidence is up there in black and white. I hope you do not find ME patronising ,I just find your comments very negative towards other peoples achievements. I know routes are out there to be given a fair grade, however it would seem from your past posts that you seek to down grade any project by the likes of Ian H and Ian S.
    thank you for your last posting jim
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: jimfish on August 11, 2005, 10:11:14 pm
hello charlie have just come back from high rocks with my wippet (neil)and he could not climb a thing. Think i will have him put down and buy a mountain goat and i will call him strnghill.
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: jimfish on August 11, 2005, 10:56:46 pm
i am still really bothered by your comment of one man and his dog can climb.Do you not like the sand stone. surely you being a local you should be greatful for what little rock we have. I am  not taking the PISS out of you i just find it hard to belive that a local has such little respect for fello climbers and the rock as in a previous posting you talk of going to some real rock the peak is are rock that bad.
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 11, 2005, 11:28:30 pm
i dont really care for internet slatings , i like the chilled atmosphere on the sandstone and would prefer to keep it like that

i never climbed with neil and only met him once, so i have no idea how his climbing is

it really does not matter at all , i dont care if my problems and the other sandstone probs are easy , i enjoy them !!!! the raeson i put them on here is because i like them and want other people to like them to , so i think it is good when stuff gets repeated

i dont claim to have done these but as for the 6b - 7b comment that is not really true , i can think of literally loads of easier problems and at least 10 problems of 7c or harder, some of them unrepeated.

also i do not have loads of time to clean routes up , i climb normally on a tues and thurs evening for a few hours in that time i manage to brush stuff up and work on anything that i am trying,  also as neil probably knows there are a few project that are common knowledge besides the ones people try privately such as the chimera direct , roofus direct, the prob left of brenva on the matterhorn

anyway people stay chilled , after all who cares it is only shit sandstone , where all the holds are sandy there is no friction ,  no good problems , no good climbers etc etc etc   :roll:  :roll:  :roll:
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: jimfish on August 11, 2005, 11:36:08 pm
its not a slating its like that game catch phrase say what you see so iam
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on August 12, 2005, 04:36:36 pm
Hey ian no afence on the 6b/7b comment, what i was saying was the problems i have repeated in the last week all fall into that catagory


jimfish:

whats wrong with showing an interest in new problems?, I mean least Ian is out there cleaning them up. And its good to get new problems put up

as for the downgrading coment you said, you are so far off the mark with that, If you had bothered to read the original thread, Ian was asking for coments on what I thought the grades were, And before I even thought what the grades were there is no mention to the grades, so how can i downgrade something when i didnt even know the original grade to downgrade it from

you know why dont you just chill and get out there and enjoy the fine conditions like the rest of us why it lasts
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: a dense loner on August 12, 2005, 06:45:23 pm
writing this from the point of view that i don't know any of you. it seems to me that some knickers are being twisted. nowhere can i see neil slagging off ian's or other's probs or for that matter suggesting that people who climb below 6b are punters. i, for one, thought it was just banter. where he say's the prob's are not rock hard 6b-7b, what can anyone say to that, they're not rock hard. if people are to be believed the next grade claimed will start with a 9!
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: jimfish on August 12, 2005, 07:48:55 pm
hello neil cheers for your last posting i did not mean any thing by the comment  i was only saying how i thought they read to me, they still read the same but the way you read it is different NO hard feelings jim on this one we will beg to differ happy climbing :evil:
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on August 12, 2005, 07:53:00 pm
no props me old son, happy climbing, maybe i will see you at the rocks sometime.............................. :)
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 12, 2005, 11:13:21 pm
oh well if anyone interested i may try to make it down tomorrow afternoon if the rain holds off but the forecast does not look great
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: Bonjoy on August 12, 2005, 11:14:12 pm
(http://www.nsga.org/images/FISH%20PILLOW-1.jpg)
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 12, 2005, 11:19:11 pm
blimey this thread has got a few replys from non sandstoners now

 :shock:

lol
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: a dense loner on August 13, 2005, 11:30:31 am
well we've got enough to eat up here, can't begrudge you a few crumbs can we :wink:
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on August 13, 2005, 07:20:41 pm
Quote from: "ian h"
oh well if anyone interested i may try to make it down tomorrow afternoon if the rain holds off but the forecast does not look great



looking forward to getting down, but rained off as my group finished

bugger

You still gonna come down for the dyno comp next week
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 14, 2005, 08:30:12 am
i am down for a late shift at my work, but will try and sort it this afternoon

will post on here to let you know
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 14, 2005, 08:31:59 am
i didnt make it down either yesterday , but will be around as usual on tues and thurs
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: jimfish on August 14, 2005, 10:32:13 am
ian are you still going down the rocks monday afternoon if the weather sort its life out
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: james on August 16, 2005, 11:32:39 am
Some good problems, just a shame it is mostly wet or too hot, oh and nr london as well.  You guys must have eagle eyes to spot the holds I cleaned 20 or so meters right of pet cemetary, thanks for cleaning the break, its going to be hard but its always nice to have your own ongoing project.
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 17, 2005, 11:03:55 am
Quote from: "james"
Some good problems, just a shame it is mostly wet or too hot, oh and nr london as well.  You guys must have eagle eyes to spot the holds I cleaned 20 or so meters right of pet cemetary, thanks for cleaning the break, its going to be hard but its always nice to have your own ongoing project.


high rocks is actually drier now than it has been for years, due to the clean up progarm last winter, there is also a follow up action plan to keep the crag in shape so hopfully over the next few years the crag will continue to improve in condition. all we need now is a dry autumn and hopefully some of the harder projects will go down.


the line 20 meters right of pete cemetary? is this the 2 tiny edeges just out of reach above head hight - small pocket in center of wall up to the break? this looks seriously nails , what sort of grade would you guess this would go at ? no worries in cleaning the break , that type of lichen brushes off in seconds :)
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: fontmaniac on August 17, 2005, 11:34:23 pm
on monday i did possibly a new easy problem in High Rocks, left from Kraite Arete and just right from the hut. a sitter to a crack up to the second break. around font 6a, i think. Ian could you let me know if it has been done before. Cheers
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: fontmaniac on August 18, 2005, 12:06:15 pm
sorry the other way around, right from Kraite and just left from the hut, and i think it is a sitter to a 5c route that starts from the top of the hut
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 19, 2005, 12:46:44 pm
probably new , or at least unclaimed, to be honest cant really picture the rock you talk about, although i know people have done sit starts to kraite arete
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 19, 2005, 01:30:11 pm
couple of pics of Pet Cemetary yesterday

(http://server3.uploadit.org/files/pinkpants-cem1.7.jpg)

(http://server2.uploadit.org/files/pinkpants-cem26.jpg)
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: unclesomebody on August 19, 2005, 02:18:49 pm
two things;

1. I can't believe how dry and clean it looks! It's truly amazing from years gone by!  

2. I can't believe you are climbing SO high above a flashed pad.  That thing most definitely won't protect you from up there!   :lol:
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 19, 2005, 06:37:06 pm
Quote from: "unclesomebody"
two things;

1. I can't believe how dry and clean it looks! It's truly amazing from years gone by!  

2. I can't believe you are climbing SO high above a flashed pad.  That thing most definitely won't protect you from up there!   :lol:



yeah i think there allot of very happy sandstoners at the moment, hopefully the rock will continue to get in better and better condition over the next few years
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: fontmaniac on August 19, 2005, 06:43:08 pm
the problem is just right from the sit start to Kraite Arete.  there is a crack which you climb like an arete, there are some holds on the left from it which i also used
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: fontmaniac on August 19, 2005, 06:44:16 pm
the problem is just right from the sit start to Kraite Arete.  there is a crack which you climb like an arete, there are some holds on the left from it which i also used
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 19, 2005, 06:52:36 pm
Quote from: "unclesomebody"
two things;

1. I can't believe how dry and clean it looks! It's truly amazing from years gone by!  

2. I can't believe you are climbing SO high above a flashed pad.  That thing most definitely won't protect you from up there!   :lol:



so you got anyplans for a trip back down this way ?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: jimfish on August 22, 2005, 11:16:17 am
good pics ian cant belive some is slaging off my pad? i wish someone had of told me about about flashed before i borght that one . That one has been back a few time cause all the foam keeps breaking down inside the rest of it is well made but i do not think i would buy another one.
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 22, 2005, 11:42:02 am
i actually think the flashed pads are ok, apart from that 1 incident with the top  layer it seems to be lasting ok , also you cant really fault there service as they replaced it straight away and has been ok since
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: MrBlue on August 22, 2005, 11:46:43 am
tried magnetic yesterday when i was down there, nearly put my hip out! could hit the sloper every time but couldn't hang it.

had a bit of a 'mare on the hut boulder as well, those shiny new bolts are, well. the two bolts on the side with shattered & nemisis lifted when i was belaying someone, one lifted right out without too much effort, the other followed shortly. the ones on the actual boulder are rotating, they don't lift, but still. chris tullis knows but he's going on holiday so high rocks have put up notices.

think i might stick to *just* bouldering in future...
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 22, 2005, 12:02:51 pm
think i might stick to *just* bouldering in future


you know it makes sense.

how was you trying magnetic ? the sloper is much better if you keep bouncing your hand leftwards
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: MrBlue on August 22, 2005, 12:54:41 pm
Quote from: "ian h"

how was you trying magnetic ? the sloper is much better if you keep bouncing your hand leftwards


left hand in the leftmost eye, right hand in the slot, then up to an oval side-pull. right foot into one of the 'sort-of-rounded-pockets', then rocking over and going up with right hand for the sloper. kept hitting the middle section, but couldn't hang it long enough to get in place.
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 23, 2005, 10:45:27 pm
ian stronhill put up another hard line tonight at around the 7c - 7c+ mark

this is between salad days and pet cemetary



(http://server2.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-strongone2.jpg)
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: jimfish on August 23, 2005, 10:51:25 pm
nice one he was getting close the other night are you any closer to pc
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on August 23, 2005, 11:12:13 pm
Quote from: "jimfish"
nice one he was getting close the other night are you any closer to pc


yes caught the top for a second then face planted, it will go down next time for sure.
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on September 19, 2005, 11:06:58 am
a couple of new problems from last week

Ches has done a new dyno "clowns pocket" a meter or so right of the first crack going at around font 7b - 7b+

and ian stronghill has climbed the starting pockets up the center of the wall left of fungal smear to the break
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: KH on September 19, 2005, 12:52:23 pm
Is there a guide available for these problems?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on September 19, 2005, 02:30:09 pm
chris is replacing the bolts this week my friend, he was on about doing the ones on isolated buttress one night, maybe tomorow or wednesday, hope this helps you out


nice to see a couple more problems going up, noticed ian on something sat evening as i was driving past good effort anyhow

Were is this dyno of chezes?
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on September 19, 2005, 04:36:44 pm
Quote from: "KH"
Is there a guide available for these problems?



there are few bits and bobs in the jingo guide, although this does tend to be the eliminte stuff, and some of which is quite inacurate !!

however the new cc guide will be featuring all the stuff at high rocks , due out at some point next year
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on September 19, 2005, 04:39:08 pm
Quote from: "neil@canaryclimbs"
Were is this dyno of chezes?


like i said a meter or so right of the "first crack" ( right down the bottom end )
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: KH on September 19, 2005, 04:47:53 pm
Quote from: "ian h

there are few bits and bobs in the jingo guide, although this does tend to be the eliminte stuff, and some of which is quite inacurate !!

however the new cc guide will be featuring all the stuff at high rocks , due out at some point next year[/quote


Was thinking of coming down that way in the next few weeks.  Is there any other way of getting hold of some topos/problem info?

Cheers
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on September 19, 2005, 07:13:24 pm
Quote from: "KH"
Quote from: "ian h

there are few bits and bobs in the jingo guide, although this does tend to be the eliminte stuff, and some of which is quite inacurate !!

however the new cc guide will be featuring all the stuff at high rocks , due out at some point next year[/quote


Was thinking of coming down that way in the next few weeks.  Is there any other way of getting hold of some topos/problem info?

Cheers


if you let me know what grades/style of problem you are looking to climb , i can suggest some stuff to you as well as all the classics, most of the stuff is pretty straight forward to find
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on September 20, 2005, 12:13:23 am
If you are down, drop me a line I am free all the time, so more than happy to show you some problems
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: KH on September 20, 2005, 02:55:15 pm
Cheers guys,

Looking to come down in a month or two.  Will be climbing problems up to around V6/7.
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on September 20, 2005, 09:53:09 pm
ian stronghill has put up another quality boulder problem this evening. this time up the bolt holes immediately left of fungal smear  and to the right of the central bolt hole line

grade is prob around the 7b - 7b+ mark
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on September 20, 2005, 09:59:50 pm
Quote from: "KH"
Cheers guys,

Looking to come down in a month or two.  Will be climbing problems up to around V6/7.


i will have a think and get back to you with a list of the better problems to try.

you should def go to high rocks (but be prepared to pay your £5) , avoid harrisons at all cost, resort only to bowles if the wether is / or has been bad , eridge although good is probably better left until you have done all the other stuff.

do you have or will you be coming with anyone with a guide book ?

also there is a possibility that in two months time the rock is not going to be in the best of condition !
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on September 20, 2005, 10:38:18 pm
(http://server2.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-bolt1.jpg)

a pic of the problem although it does not really do it justice, - the pic makes it look far more slabby than it actually is
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: KH on September 21, 2005, 11:02:02 am
Quote from: "ian h"
Quote from: "KH"
Cheers guys,

Looking to come down in a month or two.  Will be climbing problems up to around V6/7.


i will have a think and get back to you with a list of the better problems to try.

you should def go to high rocks (but be prepared to pay your £5) , avoid harrisons at all cost, resort only to bowles if the wether is / or has been bad , eridge although good is probably better left until you have done all the other stuff.

do you have or will you be coming with anyone with a guide book ?

also there is a possibility that in two months time the rock is not going to be in the best of condition !


It will probably be mid October.

We won't have a guide.  Do we need one?  The only details I've seen are on this old site,

http://www.climb-guide.com/boulder-guide/se.html

and this,

http://www.ukclimbing.com/databases/crags/craginfo.html?id=58"

High Rocks sounds good.

Cheers!
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on September 21, 2005, 02:52:24 pm
you are better off ignoring that climb guide link, it does not really give a very realistic picture of the bouldering in the area

you will probably get away without a guide
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: neil@canaryclimbs on September 21, 2005, 11:11:29 pm
Quote from: "ian h"
(http://server2.uploadit.org/files/ianhufton-bolt1.jpg)

a pic of the problem although it does not really do it justice, - the pic makes it look far more slabby than it actually is





Is this the new prob, I saw this the other week with xhalk on it, thought it was just a route, bugger, You around tomorow, we are thinking about another blitz lat afternoon, try soem new stuff
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: james on September 22, 2005, 06:40:19 pm
that look's magnificent, almost fontlike
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on September 22, 2005, 10:21:37 pm
we put up another one this evening , this time just left of "the prangster"

probably around the font 7a mark
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on October 05, 2005, 01:06:05 pm
chez has put up another dyno to the right of the two existing ones in the celebration area at high rocks , i have not checked it out yet but i think it is supposed to be harder than the middle one
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: fontmaniac on March 30, 2006, 11:52:08 pm
ian what grade does the start (up to the big break) to the Prangster get, and where do you finish the problem left from the Prangster. Cheers for the info
Title: Southern Sandstone Bouldering?
Post by: ian h on April 10, 2006, 12:30:12 pm
Quote from: "fontmaniac"
ian what grade does the start (up to the big break) to the Prangster get, and where do you finish the problem left from the Prangster. Cheers for the info


the start to the prangster is probably about font 6b - nice problem and the problem a meter of so left iof this is about font 7a-7a+ i think
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