UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: tonyt10 on March 17, 2005, 06:56:04 am
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A couple of weeks ago Mike Adams did what we think are 3 new problems in the Peak.
1. Churrnet- Cottage Rocks :- Left hand side of the crag is a slight overhang and a hangging prow. Climb from right to left on small crimps and a broken pebble to gain and then climb the prow to a slightly rounded top out. Grade somewhere around V9/10
2. Churrnet- Cottage Rocks :- As for previous but when you gain the brocken pebble head straight up to a slopper and top out. V8 ish
3. Roaches- Teteris Block :- A sit start as for tetris but head right to gain the slopping ramp and finish up the hanging slab problem that is in the guide as 7a. Grade V11/12 ( this is the main problem which we are not sure has it been done yet) a name of COLUMNS was mentioned if its new.
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Sounds new to me, i've heard of people trying that line but not getting far. Great stuff. Any pics coming?
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As soon as I get this stupid computer Ihave just got set up. Cannot conect to Iphotos for some reason. Should be sorted end of week i hope.
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If you have some pics on your hard drive stick them on the UKB gallery and link to them from there.
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Not sure about the right finish to tetris. After doing tetris I went back and tried this finish, but the top was very damp so I just shuffled to the right arete and dropped off rather than manteling out the slab. For me it felt easier than tetris (ie, 7c/V9 ish), as you avoid the cut loose swinging round the corner. Certainly it's stacks easier than the inertia reel trav (low V12/8a+, perhaps even just 8a).
I know that Andi Turner did Tetris shortly after me, but don't know whether he did the RH finish. There is rumour of all these lines being done before, but no confirmation, which is why I didn't put FAs next to any of them.
THe cottage rocks ones may be new though.
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James Garland Taylor certainly did Tetris early in the autumn last year. He thought it was an FA at the time but it was already listed as a prob in the new Staffs guide so who knows.
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Hi Ru, I think my discription may have confused you. It is not a right hand finish to tetris but more a sitdown right hand start to the hanging slab problem. Is def harder than tetris. The effort Mike had to put in to hold the sloppers going right into the start of the hangging slab was just emense. I managed tetris but could not do this problem.
Sorry Folks when me and Mike first discussed grades I thought harder than he did. Talking to him today he pointed out that he decided V11/10 was the right grade.
I will load photos as soon as I can get this computer to register my camera and import the photos.
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If it's an independant sit start to the hanging slab, that'd be cool. I never even looked for holds right of the double arete sitter of tetris. The thing I did sounds different then - I started one hand either side of the prow (as tetris), climbed to the lip, then shuffled rightwards along the top to the far right arete - a non problem really. The direct mantel finish to tetris is also awaiting an ascent, but I guess that would be an eliminate.
That block is one of the best chunks of grit in the peak so another problem on it is great. Shame there's no holds on the downhill face.
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I was at the Clouds today and noticed some chalk low down on the arete right of the hanging slab. I thought some one was having a laugh and just putting random chalk marks on it because it looks fuckin nails. If we're both on about the same thing, that is quite impressive, well played!