UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Bubba on October 10, 2002, 03:22:56 pm
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Wow! This crew is soooo Hardcore!
(http://www.wildcat-walks.co.uk/photo-gallery/images/bouldering-above-inverie-knoydart_jpg.jpg)
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This appeared on boldering.com - I felt it was my duty to share it with everyone. It is what springs to my mind when someone uses the phrase "hardcore bouldering"......
(http://www.sportclimbing.de/allimg2002/pala_kalender_2003_maerz.jpg)
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Now that is just a great photo!!! Is that from the "Stone Nudes"? Most of them were a bit crap I thought, but that one's much better.
Just very lucky my boss isn't in yet :oops:
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Fck knows where its from (some german nature calendar? not from SN) but I wanna see more of that down burbage in future.
ukbouldering shoud produce a calendar along similar lines - get some climbing honeyz involved. I bet the proceeds would pay for some video hosting space!.....see, admit it, now you're interested mike.....
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Yeah, we'll have to get Sel 'n Ang to get their kit off for some bouldering pics - getting a bit chilly for that now mind :D
Bandwidth now becoming an issue, might have to move hosts to some mucho cheaper US based ones, which will give me over 5 times the bandwidth for the same cost....
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Wow! This crew is soooo Hardcore!
http://www.wildcat-walks.co.uk/photo-gallery/images/scrambling-above-inverie-knoydart_jpg .jpg
OMG
Edit the editor
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hee hee! but check the page it's from:
http://www.wildcat-walks.co.uk/photo-gallery/pages/bouldering-above-inverie-knoydart_jpg.htm - it says bouldering, which is how I found it from tha googley thing - honest!! Oh god, I've been outed as a red-sock bumbly :oops:
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hehe
someone shoudl send them people a dictionary thats why i changed it
:)
it ain't even scrambling
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Yeah, we'll have to get Sel 'n Ang to get their kit off for some bouldering pics - getting a bit chilly for that now mind :D
Not to worry - hard nipples come out a treat on photos!. If you need someone to hold up a reflective umbrella on that particular photoshoot, I'm your man.
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This photo epitomises the hardcore bouldering scene worldwide:
(http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/i/3143.jpg)
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Ha! :D
Who's profile pic is that then???
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Twas one of them random images you get on the homepage.
Regardless of the climbing, the sight of someone stood about in tracksters,
buffalo, harness, gear, helmet and rope tied to back is enough to make me cringe anyway.
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Oooh!
(http://www.bloodyflapper.com/pix/tonk2_1.jpg)
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Mmmm got a well funny pic but how the hell do you put em in?
tell me[/url]
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Pics can only be linked in - they're not uploaded to the forum, they're just linked to from the thread, so it's got to point to a full url. Sorry, you can't upload pics from your hard drive - whack it up onto one of those free pic sites, then link to it from there or something :)
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Will try that sometime cheers. .
What about being able to post on the bouldering sections,for example
when i look at eagle tor for a boulder problem feel good V11 blar blar. . .
I can then post a few comments on grades ,tips ,easy methods ect ect. .
It would be mint!
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It's in the pipeline..... :)
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Look at that sun
(http://www.geocities.com/justfunk_dj/justgreentr.jpg)
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Nice piccy - On your site there's a pic of Boba Fett go straight up the right hand end of that slab - what's the thing chalked up on the left side in the pic on your site? I know I should just check my guide but it's not here.
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Ok, not bouldering, but it's still damn hardcore!
(http://www.whitman.edu/outdoor_program/jpg/rory.jpg)
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its a V8 if you finish direct. Its very good slab climbing.
next time your over drop us a repy on here and will perhaps meet up. I can show you some classics. and other stuff. Bring ya video camera(did you say you film for your site).
J
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Great climbing I agree. I finished by rocking up left from the two obvious holds - good problem, but a bit of a copout so was then trying it direct - almost got it, but then it started raining and being generally damp, so reckon I'll get it next time.... some freezing cold will help. James did it direct too - Then of course there's the one up the middle, and then Boba Fet which looks really hard to even get off the floor.
Ok, next time we're over we'll hook up and get some filming done, not got any video from over that way - nice one :D
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Drop us a thread when your over this way. .
I will show you the hidden classics that everbody just misses as they are not in the guide.
WE are just of to burbage today . . Woo hoo . . hope its dry n dry n dry n bloody dry,im sick of the shite weather this weekend.!
Take care
J
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There was 3 inches of water under the remergence block yesterday!
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Is the bailing bucket still there?
A bilge pump, the latest must-have bouldering accessory...
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No, but there was a air filter, uv light, reeds, plancton, a half a dozen Koi Carp swimming about.
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Yes but there is burb west n south to takle too?
Problably be west n north!
U guys out today?
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West was still all damp when we left about 5pm yesterday (stuff at the bridge drying) but given this nice morning sun I recon you'll be alright, unless theres that wet streak still down WSS.
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No, but there was a air filter, uv light, reeds, plancton, a half a dozen Koi Carp swimming about.
Cool as! I think it's about time that the boring Peak scenery is brightened up with a bit of landscaping. We've already got the trout-fest that is Rubicon - I reckon Doxy's Pool should be next for a bit of a makeover followed by the hell-hole that is Lawrencefield.
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Justin,
Couldnt get out today :cry: but will be out on Thursday. Are you around? Drop us a line (07833 508 296) and we'll meet up.
Cheers
James
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Yes will drop you a text then you can grab my no then drop us a txt when your next over here. . ..
Where is your local crag(s) . . Will drop u txt when about your way ?..
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Justin,
My local crags are Stanton Moor, Eagle Tor, Cratcliffe, RHS etc, and anywhere else I can easily get to on a bus. Too young to drive - Stupid god damn laws dang nab-it :D . wont be long though :hyper: .
Have you seen the thread on the big dyno? We might be over this weekend, weather permiting.
Where is the crux on Bobba Fet (sp)? I had a quick look at it and the start looked tricky, does it get easier?
Hopefuly see you at the weekend.
Cheers
James
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Justin,
My local crags are Stanton Moor, Eagle Tor, Cratcliffe, RHS etc, and anywhere else I can easily get to on a bus. Too young to drive - Stupid god damn laws dang nab-it :D . wont be long though :hyper: .
Have you seen the thread on the big dyno? We might be over this weekend, weather permiting.
Where is the crux on Bobba Fet (sp)? I had a quick look at it and the start looked tricky, does it get easier?
Hopefuly see you at the weekend.
Cheers
James
Bobba fett is susstained hard til the last move. drop us txt if you are over here this wknd. I may go to try sampson at burbage on sun(if cool enough) i want to see what all the fuss is about on this line?
Why not get a motor bike 50cc or suumat? it will get u around!
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Hi Justin.
Will text you if we get out. Do you know what the weather is going to be like? Has sampson been repeated? It dosnt look that hard.
I will be 17 in a month so no point in getting a bike, couldnt take a mat on one anyway.
Cheers
James
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Sampson has not been repeated yet but should see it done this winter i recon by some dude?
Im off to burb west tommorow are you about? i want to try a few things there.It has given a good day out. Allthough that means jack shite? ??
Til then . .
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Fraid I am not about mate. Ive got bloody school, the only day I have off is Thursday.
I realy wanted to get out today because of the weather and I realy like Burbage West. What a shame.
Are you around on Thursday. The forcast is a bit shit at the moment but it might change? Have you been to Stanton Moor. Send me a text with your number.
Cheers
James
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Will be out burbage on thur if dry . Fingers crossed it will be crisp dry and -5 . He he he .
i wish.
Lets just see what the weather brings and if all is well i will see you there.
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What time are you going to Burbage?I should be finished school at 10:40 but if I am unlucky it could be as late as 12:40 :cry: . I will know for sure later today and I will let you know.
Cheers
James
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Hi Justin.
Everything is nearly sorted. All we need now is some good weather :? . Give me a call tomorow evening.
Cheers
James
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Ok james sounds good but the weather is well shite i think. Will just wait n see ?
I have not been stanton yet would like a blast there sometime? :wink:
Eagle is one of your locals ? Well has anyone done the tomas W arete left of moffats 8a thingy yet,repeats or ? :?:
I will drop u a txt tom that ll give u my no.
Cheers
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Hi Justin,
Eagle is probably my favourite place at the moment. I have been meaning to try No Mercy it for a while but last time I went it started to piss it down just as I got to the problem. I dont think it has been repeated yet but I could be wrong. It dosnt look that hard but it is probably decieving.
I know Stanton moor well and would happily show you around anytime. Their are some awesome problems up there. The cork stone is weird and wonderfull and Vice Man, the highball at the far end (claimed by moffat as Spare Rib) is a toutch of class.
I will probably go out somewhere tomorow even ir the weather is not briliant, If it is realy wet I will probably go and Have a look at a recently developed crag x that is supost to be awesome. Ill give you a ring when I get your number and let you know what is hapening over this way. Talk to you tomorow.
Cheers
James
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James, what's this about "Vice Man"? Who did it first?
Make sure Justin is sworn to secrecy about crag-x - you know the score :wink:
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Make sure Justin is sworn to secrecy about crag-x - you know the score :wink:[/quote]
What the hell is this then? not the cragx ?
Or is it grit . . ..
Im excited . . .. . :lol: :lol:
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Ha ha, we could tell you, but then we'd have to kill you :D
Personal introductions only as we can't say where it is on here. Access is too sensitive and we want to keep it like Cresbrook - ie not publicised etc.
It's grit and there's some good stuff there, though it's not the new plantation by any means.
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MMMMMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmm
Sneaky buggers ! I shall look forward it. has it potential for hard stuff.
What is the rock like. Green near trees open coarse fine grit. pockety steep or slaby,Both,? ? ? ? undercut starts ? ? ?
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Most of the hard routes have been done by, I believe Monsieurs Whittaker, Lea & Bishton, but not sure if all the boulder problems have yet. Not been up there for a while as weather isn't exactly ideal.
A good variety of stuff, but mostly sit-starts for the problems as the boulders are quite small.
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Jason Meyers (sp) climbed the problem originaly and called it Vice Man. I think it was graded about V8/V9 but I dont think he published it (as with most of the stuff he did on the moor). Jerry then came along and claimed it as his own and called it Spare Rib
I will protect the identity of our secret haven with my life :lol: . I thought about blindfolding Justin on the trip to the crag as not to reveal the location until we are sure of his loyalty but since he will probably be driving, im not sure that would be the best idea :lol: .
Justin, if it is wet, do you fancy going tomorow. I cant be bothered to sit at home all day if it is too wet to climb and I could do with checking out the crag x in more detail. I think there are supost to be some E6 aretes up there too. Is that right Mike?
Cheers
James
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It's Myers - how did you find that out? Did you talk to Jason?
Well, I dunno their grades, as it's all not been publicised....Percy B might enlighten us if he reads this. I must just say that if it's raining, then it'll be an extremely unpleasant place to be, which is why I've not been up for a while - I'd wait for a dry day meself.
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Tony spoke to Jason and then told me. Apparently he has done most things including Snaptonic, Resistance is Futile and Unidentified Flying People.
If it rais, I wasnt thinking of climbing, just looking around. If it is dry then its off to Burbage.
Cheers
James
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Bleedin' ell, Jason's done the lot. He was a very keen lad though.
I think even looking about up there will be minging if it's wet but good luck - I'll message you the best place to park, etc.....
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Jason called his problem (now dubbed Spare Rib by Jerry) Brutal Arete. Its a pity he didn't mention this to me prior to me writing a bit about it for OTE (which should appear at some point soon). Anyway, its still the best V8+ in the Peak, but the height and difficulty coupled with the hidden nature of the butress its on should protect the rock from damage from dick-heads who have no respect for the grit :cry:
Crag x as you refer to it is a very special place, first discovered by the late Tom Proctor and Martin Boysen a long time ago (25/30 years?) It has been visited by several inquisitive folks over the years (e.g; Al Williams, Martin Veale, etc.) and does have an access problem so will remain in obscurity, known only to those who have found it - and we're not telling so don't bother asking OK? None of the problems or routes done here have been recorded anywhere and hopefully this situation will remain. As Mike says, its not a new plantation. In fact its not worth fretting about at all, and will probably be wet all but 3 months of the year, and then it will be too hot and midgy! I do know of some other new grit areas, but until land ownership changes and its less likely to get shot for climbing there, I'm keeping Shtumm! :wink:
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Thats weird, I could have sworn it was called Vice Man :? . Are we talking about the same problem, the one that goes up the center of the wall. Has the arete on its right been done? It looks to have a huge move to get the thin crack.
Your problems below look good. Does the big arete start from sitting or standing?
Cheers
James
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Think its the same problem we're on about - its had several names attached, because its had several different first ascentionisits! At least three folks I know of have claimed a first ascent of the line, so no wonder everybodies confused. Jason told me he'd called it Brutal Arete, so I don't know who called it Vice Man.
However, the hanging arete to the right of the problem looks awesome, and also looks like a ROUTE! The top-out is the most un-appealing thing I've seen in a long time - kinda puts you off trying it a bit! :blow:
The big arete starts from sitting, using the arete and a sharp little crimp low on the left - get a good spot though, the middle section feels hard when you're tired!
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I will try that arete next time I get up there, probably when this bloody rain stops :( . I have not looked at the top out but it looks amazing from the ground. The face around the corner also looks top, if only it had some holds on the top section.
The left hand crimp on the big arete is a sharp little bugger. Mark split his finger the first time he tried it !! The rest looks good though.
Cheers
James
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Hi james
I will not be out today due to SHIT weather again but will be off to stanage this wknd or burb. I will drop u txt when i have decided? May meet mr dawes at stanage as he has a few projects to show me?
i will drop txt on fri night . .. . . . That way i will be able to tell you better if it is sat or sun we will be at stan.
As for me its of to our lovely private wall/woody . The hayloft . Its a bloody powerhouse n half. Its in buxton if your passing?
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Stanage would be good. I need to get back on Dannys Problem now I know what grade it is. I am realy up for Rons slab. I have had a quick play on it before and found the start nails, well, what do you expect for 7a/b :lol: .
Have you done Big Air? I am in two minds weather to try it or not. If you miss the pocket, what is the fall like?
Cheers
James
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The fall from the jump is probably nothing, just fill the gap with a rucksack and stick your mat on top - bomber! If you get stuck at the pocket just jump back.
If you are hoping that Danny's problem is 8a then you might not be in luck, word is 7c, and yes, that is the proper way (start matched on ledge). Seems fair to me, although I'll admit I've never tried it!
One last thing - why does the Dawes always spout huge English tech grades? I like him as much as the next man, and I am vaguely acquainted with him, but what's the score?! Ron's Slab (I presume you mean the one L of Crescent Arete) is nowhere near 7b, 7a perhaps. You think that's bad, he once told me that his "thumb-sprag" beta on Smiling Buttress was English 8a!!!! If such a grade exists then its only on one problem, at Fairy Steps...
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Sorry to drag the subject back to hardcore bouldering photos, but heres one i came across i thought everyone should see..... every indoor wall should have one.
Get ready to scroll fast.....
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(http://www.drtopo.com/quebec/joke/ethique.jpg)
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You're a gratuitously sexist pig Dave, and you should be ashamed of yourself for posting such demeaning filth.
Actually, I was going to post a link to that one on the CT thread about whether Lynn Hill is the best looking female climber (!? .... :D but thought better of it.
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I would say Lynn Hill is the best looking female climber to have climbed the Nose free.
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Actually, I was going to post a link to that one on the CT thread about whether Lynn Hill is the best looking female climber
Someone beat me to it!!
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(http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze4gt4p/hunter/boldering.jpg)
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(http://gregkarma_url)[/img]
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Hmmm....not sure what you had in mind there Greg!
(http://www.bouldering.co.za/Cover%20Mike%20Baobab.jpg)
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Hey, very good pictures.
See at www.toscoclimb.it, I've placed the beautiful women in the homepage.
How can I send you a pic of one of my friends, Mauro Calibani?
Ciao, Toni
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That's a great photo, isn't it?
Better than all that Stone Nudes stuff anyway....
Toni, you can send a photo either from the photo upload form (http://www.ukbouldering.com/servlet/Upload) or just email it to us at one of the addresses on the contact page.
Do you know if the Meschia ban is going to be permanent?
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At the moment Meschia is closed.
In the next days my other site, www.onemove.it that I realized with Mauro (Calibani) will come online again (we've got a lot of problems with our server) and we'll explain again why Meschia was forbidden by the owner.
Toni
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(http://www.0friction.com/pix/zero_friction_pic_1483.jpg)
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Nice shorts :shock:
(http://www.dangeroussite.com/images/gallery/recent/The%20beagle%20has%20landed.jpg)
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Fuck me is that a topless woman or did he fall in the hot wash!!!!!! :shock:
Wonder what Normski would have said about that?
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I'm ashamed to say that I sometimes used to climb in such attire back in the 80's - many a tourist was repelled when I unleashed my thighs of thunder.
Still not as bad as my candy striped white and pink Troll rock-bottoms mind.
The 80's was a bad time for outdoor fashion. Or any fashion come to think of it.