UKBouldering.com
places to visit => abroad => Topic started by: runt on November 11, 2004, 04:41:12 pm
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Off on the NZ road trip at the end of the month, the powerband site has been spot on for topos and that, but does anyone have any must do (or try pathetically at) problems? upto v6/7 ish.
While I'm at it fiji looks like it's got some stuff too, anybody been chalking up bits of the beach?
Ta very much, and pass the DVT socks
Andy
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Check the Castle Hill thread on page 2 of this forum section. I think I listed a few must do's on there. Ocean, Pheonix and Better than Jesus are all essential at V6/7.
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Sorry didnt get back to yah Runt but heres some shizzle bout N.Z.
In my opinion the North island was shit for bouldering and wished we had gone strait down south, have to say Frogatt was ok for routes but Ive done better in this country sooooo......
to get to the south island we got a ferry(we had a van!) wich was HUGELY expensive! There is some sport climbing in the north end of the south island which is ok if your there but very chee dale so again.........
There is some bouldering on the way to milford sound on granite BUT only climable at certain times of year cos of rain and sand flies at other times!(youll know wat i mean when u get there) but does look good. Jardines outside of Queenstown is good with more stuff being developed, kind of schist/cromlech type rock and i have to say some good sport climbing bit further away near wanaka(much nicer place to hang out than Queenstown!!!!!)
lots been written bout Castle Hill so wont go into it
We went to Fiji but unless youve lived in that heat for years you aint going bouldering, its frigging hot! Saying that i actually went deep water soloing inside a limestone sea cavern which was top! my advice is to get out to the islands to experience some mad tropical isolation, no roads/electricity/phones/cars/noise etc. We went diving down south way on the Astrolab reef which was frigging amazing. if your on the more popular araeas be wary cos theve been stripped bare and theres nothing to see!!
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whilst New Zealand is in the limelight - whats peoples views on it as a place to live (from a climbers view point)?
Is Christchurch the only place worth bothering with??
Is there any decent climbing near Auckland??
thoroughly fed up with my job in HK and have floated my CV down to about 3 companies in NZ so far this week - just wanna know which of their offices would be worth considering should anything ever come of it (personally i'd rather move to Vancouver but the misses has her heart set on NZ for some reason)
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There is climbing near Auckland but have to say its pretty shit!
Christchurch would be ok.....it is a bit of a haul to other areas but still drivable to castle hill for day. There is some local stuff but again bit crap.
Some of the big alpine rock routes looked stunning...
Dont forget the climate in N.Z is very similar to Britain=rain
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Thanks for all that, I'll check some of those spots/problems out. I won't get my hopes up for the north island though!
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thoroughly fed up with my job in HK and have floated my CV down to about 3 companies in NZ so far this week - just wanna know which of their offices would be worth considering should anything ever come of it (personally i'd rather move to Vancouver but the misses has her heart set on NZ for some reason)
Jesus, who wears the trousers chez Millis? Ah right yes, NZ it is then :wink:
Personally, I would love to live in Wanaka (beautiful, slightly leftfield small town in amongst amazing mountains), but can't imagine they're gagging for geotechnical engineers.....
Christchurch is really your best bet - hour and a half to Castle Hill with some sport on the edge of the city (me and the missus didn't make it to the Port crags - think they're pretty average). Plus up around Castle Hill there's all the walking and biking you could possibly want.
Auckland has better weather and is more like a city, but the nearby climbing looks wank.....
Do you not fancy Oz??
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but can't imagine they're gagging for geotechnical engineers.....
Being the twat that I am, I actually gave up a job in Wanaka as a Geotech Engineer. Granted it was a pretty basic job (I was digging my own trial pits with a spade), but I look back now and think "you bell end".
Awesome venue for everything you ever want to do.
OP - have a great trip and make sure you visit Mt Apsiring Hut before you leave.
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Do you not fancy Oz??
another case of wheres the trousers - the misses thinks aussies are all racist red necks (probably not far off the truth) and doesn't wanna go there - think i've got more chance of getting her to Vancouver than Sydney.....
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ok, have tried to tick new zealand and fiji (got to that limestone sea cave fatboy, was quality) off to Oz starting at sydney next so has anybody got any essential venues/problems? v6/7 still
Thinking blue mountains and the grampians should be good?
ta very much again
tanned and skint...runt
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You could always try hooking up with Carnage for a guided tour of Sydney bouldering. Sydney recomendations at that grade from me would include The Kyle Rule at the Den, Pockets of Resistance and Sloperdan Milosovich at the Frontline and Weak Ape Test Zone at the Wing Cave.
Did you try any of my CH recomendations?
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Thanks for those bonjoy, and yeah I'll try and pick carnages brain.
Had a great time at the hill running about with the ukb ticklist, although it was determined to stay fairly unticked! Enjoyed the phonenix, but was far too hot for much else, that's my excuse anyway! thought the sorcerers apprentice was classic, and loads of mint easier stuff.
A
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ok, have tried to tick new zealand and fiji (got to that limestone sea cave fatboy, was quality) off to Oz starting at sydney next so has anybody got any essential venues/problems? v6/7 still
Thinking blue mountains and the grampians should be good?
ta very much again
tanned and skint...runt
Blueys if you want roped stuff. Only bouldering there is XXXX cave. My recommendations would be:-
Y2K at the Trenches
Anorexic at Crumbly or Sushi Train if you're feeling strong
Something at Sissy (you've gotta got there)- Maybe Vitamin C or Mr Smiley or Travis (hard if 7 ok if 8)
Pockets of Resistance & Sloperdan & Milo & Kofi (ace) @ the Frontline
Burgers at the Villas (Crack Attack there is cool too)
Queens Park has some good higballs and is easy to get to on public transport
Don't bother with Fox Cave unless you like fighting you way through the bush. The Wing hmmm, (Bonjoy likes it) but I thought it sucked, although Weak Ape Testzone is amazingly soft for 7.
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Best Areas if you are into steep to roof with decent holds are Sissy, Crumbly, Villas, Wing Cave, Queens Park, The Den. Most of the stuff at The Den and Crumbly is V8+. Queens Park is the easiest to get to with public transport.
If you are more into blocks, slabs, slopers and mantle top outs then Frontline, Trenches, Lindfield. Frontline and Trenches have the highest concentration of V5-V7 problems. Lindfield is mostly under V5.
Although this is a generalisation as there are steeper / slabbier problems at all these areas So you are sure to find a few V5-7 probs at these venues.
If you are after a nice aspect / surroundings and not too concerned about the quality or difficulty of problems then try Pearl Bay, Sandy Bay, Balls Head, Palm Beach.
Well known crags that I wouldn't recommend to the visitor are the Fear Factory, Fox Cave, Akuna Bay, Funky Town - mainly cause of the effort to find access / locate problems without a local knowledge and poor rock quality.
Bouldering in Nowra is also excellent but dependent on the conditions / temps at the moment. Steep powerful climbing on bullet rock. The Brothel and The Furnace are good.
Bouldering in the blueys (Powerplant / 4X) is ok if you are into slightly overhanging sharp crimps. Limited though and hard to find the established lines without a local guiding you. Tarana further west offers some scary granite slabbing.
Depends how much time you have but I would definitely leave a good stint for the Gramps. Best venues are:
1. HMC, Loopeys and Andersens.
2. Trackside Boulders. Kindergarten
3. Campground Boulders
Weak Ape Testzone is amazingly soft for 7.
Carnage is tall and Weak Ape Test Zone is morpho (unless you have t-rex arms ;)
If you want to hook up with some locals post at www.vi-bouldering.com or pop into the bouldering area at Climbfit (climbing wall in St Leonards) on a Tuesday or Thursday night. Look for a strong, scary looking guy with man breasts called 'Buge' and tell him Dr Wong sent you.
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Thanks for the knowledge guys, look forward to checking some of those out. Then it's hit the beach time :)
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Hmmm, not the best of days to hit the beach- Its pissing down. :(
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:( the travel agent never mentioned rain, I've been done
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Gonna be showery for a couple of days by the forecast. Still, at least its cooled down a bit.
Even now you can still climb at Crumbly and most of Sissy should be dry.
If you get desperate and depending on where you are there's good indoor walls at St Peters (2 stops from Central), St Leonards, (5 or 6 stops from Central), The Ledge (good place to meet people in the evenings) at Sydney Uni and the Northen Beaches Rockhouse (middle of nowhere).
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Crumbly sounds good! Thanks for the wall knowledge, could be a continuation of the plastic tour of new zealand if the rain keeps up!
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(http://freespace.virgin.net/andrew.mcewan/images/dscf0188.jpg)
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hopefully jim won't have fix it for me....gettit(http://freespace.virgin.net/andrew.mcewan/images/dscf0226.jpg)
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(http://freespace.virgin.net/andrew.mcewan/images/dscf0227.jpg)
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Does anyone have any essential ticks in the lower grades at Castle Hill (up to V4ish) or is it easier for me just to get lost in a sea of grey limestone having a go at what I fancy until my tips run with blood and my forearms explode?
Also any other worthy spots worth a visit, we will definitely be in Wanaka for a bit, and hopefully get to Payne's Ford. What are Rhino and Elephant rocks like? More of the same as CH, or worth checking out?
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A few classics off the top of my head in that range. Ode to Joy and the V2 on the back of the same boulder, The Run Jump Slab, the V3 slab right of Money See Monkey Do, Bliss, Left and Right on the Headlights boulder, The Lung Dyno. Mmmm, there are shit loads of great problems in that range. Have a good one, i'm jealous.
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Never wen't to Wanaka. Payne's is in a really beautiful are and the climbing is fairly good, but not great when compared with quality euro limestone. A bit of a souped up Stoney with more bolts and friction, and some great swimming holes, including that mad roof boulder prob going out over the water.
Elephant is very inferior to CH. The nearby Hulk Hogan is novel and worth a couple of days super steep jug slapping (shame about the mindless coloured crayon marking all the holds from some old climbing comp :roll: ). Have not heard of Rhino.
Basically CH is where it's at NZ wise, everything else is of modest interest in comparison.
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We are heading up to Wanaka to see some friends anyway, and hopefully get some boarding in, so will check out the area. Likewise heading up to the North end of South island to see friends and check out Abel Tasman NP anyway, so might see if I can still clip a bolt properly or not.
I think Hulk Hogan is out due to lambing season, but looks a bit steep and burly anyway. I suspect I have a better chance on the technical and footworky stuff at CH, but I suspect I will still have my butt soundly spanked by the place. Looking forward to it though.
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http://www.tota.co.nz/castlehill/information.html
http://www.castlehill.net.nz/
http://flockhill.blogspot.com/
Some useful links courtesy of Simon on UKC.
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FWIW, Wanaka and the Abel Tasman were my favourite bits of NZ - fantastic sea kayaking around the AT, and Payne's Ford was great. Wanaka is a nice, laid-back mountainy kind of town - decent climbing and bouldering there as well - if you've never done it, I can recommend doing the tandem sky-dive - sounds a bit wanky and x1sportsplanetfeartreme, but actually amazing if you have a clear day.
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We ended up with only a day and a half at Castle Hill. Amazing spot, you can get very lost! Got nowhere on Lung Dyno, due to funky start moves. Lung Arete was great though, some sketch smearing on polished holds. Flashed a V4, which is a first for me, and bagged several V2, 3 & 4s and a V5 first and second go. I found grades were a bit soft compared to US and font, or maybe probs just suit technical lankards who are used to poished footholds? Got a few routes done in Wanaka, best probably being Rusty Pins (bad name as it is now fully bolted) and Headbanger's Arete. Wasn't too crazy about the shist though, and the routes are a bit scattered.
Elephant Rocks were fun for an afternoon, setting is as spectacular. Charleston has some great trad routes, sadly our meagre rack prevented us doing the longer lines, and the weather crapped out. Did a day at Payne's Ford, while it was fun, it is a bit of generic sport climbing and not really up to scratch compared to euro stuff.
Sea Kayaking in Abel Tasman good fun, would have like to do a longer trip though, Jet Boating is ace and snowboarding around Wanaka was good fun even if the snow was pretty poor. Surfing at Kaikoura was good, even if water was cold and the boulder bottom was very disconcerting.
All in all I would recommend going, but not for a climbing only trip. Better places to go for one of those, and many things to do in NZ other than climb.
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so far have managed two and a half days at Castle Hill and trips to Hospital Flats, Lakeside Boulder and Luggate Boulders in Wanaka plus Elephant Rocks and Hulk Hogan - off back to Castle Hill on Friday for one final fling (gotta finish off Ocean and Rocket Pants before coming home...)
all I can to say to those who haven't been here yet is book your tickets, it's awesome
photo's will come once I'm back in HK - have already filled up a 1GB memory card with just climbing pics!!!
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(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/flat_lands.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/lung_arete.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/cyclops.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/left_headlight.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/rocket_pants.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/rocket_pants2.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/cyclops_boulder.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/opium2.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/phoenix.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/tuppi_master2.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/riverworld.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/matrix.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/lakeside_arete.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/lakeside_v3.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/luggate_v3.jpg)
(http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/images/photos/nz/silent_scream.jpg)
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Aside from some fine bloddering Stu, how did the rest of the trip go?
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awesome (except for ignoring your advice and bagging a speeding ticket between Wanaka and Queenstown...)
Itenary was basically a few days in Christchurch, Castle Hill for a couple of days, down to Franz Josef via Hokitika etc, few days around Wanaka (including a flight over Mt Aspiring and into Milford Sound), getting EXTREEEEME in Queenstown for a bit, over to Dunedin (cold wet and miserable but with some nice looking surf and a pretty coast line), back up to Christchurch via elephant rocks / hulk hogan, some more time in CChurch (akaroa etc) and then one final fling with Castle Hill.
will sort out general holiday snaps and add them soon
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Sounds like a good trip. Prospecting go well? Dunedin gets some seriously big surf; waves big enough to need tow ins. Unfortunately the sea is pretty damn cold.
Did I tell you we met Dom Joly (from Trigger Happy TV) in Kaikoura? He made some comment (as a joke) about going to the Franz Ferdinand Glacier an I (like a tit) corrected him and told him it was Franz Josef. :oops:
Sounds like you had a good trip though. In hindsight we should have flown to Milford Sound too, but we weren't sure how money was going to work out for the rest of the trip.
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ooooh... looks amazing. Goddammit, why can't i get a bus there?
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In hindsight we should have flown to Milford Sound too, but we weren't sure how money was going to work out for the rest of the trip.
not a cheap thing to do (NZD370 each) but a pretty amazing trip - will upload the piccies soon
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Oh bugger this...I'm off down south, I don't care how bad the pain is !!! (I can't believe that my sister lived less than an hour from Castle Hill & I didn't get there !!!)-how stupid does that make me?
Stu, good to see you enjoyed the trip...
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Stu, good to see you enjoyed the trip...
cheers - was almost going to be tracking you down last Sunday - didn't realise it was Uni break up weekend and all flights would be completely full (not good for travelling on staff stand-by tickets)
ended up getting bumped off one flight and taking the crew fold down seat on the later one in order to escape (with the added bonus of having to use a cockpit seat for take off and landing)
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Coool pics stu, your hit list looks almost identical to mine! was like a trip down memory lane, am now fighting the urge to to bin it all here and head back!
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seems they've sorted out the Flock Hill access issues for the time being:
http://flockhill.blogspot.com/
which means the timing of my trip was just plain damn unlucky - oh well, some you win, some you loose - another reason for a return visit now....
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ok - been blown out by my climbing partner (Sparky) for a trip to Bishop in March so am cutting my losses and heading back down to NZ, this time for the northern bit of the south island (via Castle / Flock Hill of course)
so, what I'm after is suggestions for good bits to visit etc. up top of the island - climbing and non-climbing as it's another of those 'mixed holidays' (I've traded a few days at the hill for a few days hitting the wineries in order to keep the misses happy, think i get the better out of that deal...)
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We skipped the wineries, but Kaikoura was a nice spot; seal colony (where we met Dom Joly), swimming with dolphins, whale watching and all that crap, plus one of the best surf spots in South Island (if you can remember any). Queen Charlotte sound looks good, but we ran out of time. Abel Tasman is a cool spot, loads of hikes, sea kayaking etc. Payne's Ford is up that way, good for a bit of bolt clipping too.
Pity about the Bishop trip, but if you were thinking about reconsidering, it's one of thos places where you can always hook up with other people, especially at this time of year. And Mammoth is having a superb snow season.
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stacks more photos from three more days at the Hill here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/96354628@N00/
including the following gems:
(http://static.flickr.com/38/111276527_8d51995c17.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/45/111276447_c0b1a5a1d3.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/53/111276414_75df76799f.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/36/111276114_4216355105.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/47/111276254_795655bf79.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/39/111276088_bc3a730e10.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/55/111276098_39b25dcd59.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/41/111276002_eced3b7130.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/53/111275938_877a9df861.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/41/111275910_293c567458.jpg)
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(http://static.flickr.com/41/111275910_293c567458.jpg)
Looks like you are guaranteed to get a good mat surf if you fell off that one.
Captions are lacking from non-climbing pics, guess you spent a bit of time in Kaikoura, did you brave the surf? Your wildlife pics are good, some could do with a bit of cropping though.
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Your wildlife pics are good, some could do with a bit of cropping though.
only got back yeaterday so they're all straight uploads - will crop them etc. when i find time
this time we headed over Castle Hill (2 1/2 days climbing only...), up to Nelson/Abel Tasman (top spot), up to Golden Bay, over to Blenheim (nice vino), down to Kaikoura (good whales and dolphins) and then back to Christchurch.
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so, what I'm after is suggestions for good bits to visit etc. up top of the island - climbing and non-climbing as it's another of those 'mixed holidays'
An Abel Tasman sea Kayaking trip is to be highly recommended - We spent three days in a Tandem Kayak and hardly saw a soul bar the wildlife.
Not far from Paynes Ford which is pretty neat - My better half hates climbing (and climbers!), yet she really enjoyed the vibe around Takaka(?) and even the climbing. (some really easy bolted stuff)
You can also check Farewell spit out which has superb landscape, horse treks and free eco-festival partys if the timing is right.
You could hire ropes and stuff from the hang dog camp to cut down on luggage, and it's a great place to stay to explore the area, although I'm not sure of the present position as the fella who ran it died not long back. Anyone else know the sketch??
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... I'm not sure of the present position as the fella who ran it died not long back. Anyone else know the sketch??
Hangdog still runs as normal. Heres their website. (http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/hangdog.camp/)
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What is the season like between October and February. I guess that's summer down under, so what would it be like to come on a climbing trip to NZ/OZ for those months? Any advice is much appreciated... plus any tips on the cheapest possible flights!
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What is the season like between October and February.
It's warm at Castle Hill in summer (very warm) but you'll still get plenty done if you climb in the mornings and evenings. There's a lifetimes worth of easy stuff and highballs to keep you occupied. Bouldering wise, to be honest winter is best by far, but that's not to say you won't have a great time. However, everything feels about two grades harder (if not more) up at the Hill in summer.
The crag routes will be hot too, but certainly not too to get lots done if you choose the venue/aspect etc. Obviously the mountain stuff is ripe during the summer if that's what you want to do.
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Thanks Ben. What kind of temps are you talking about in the mornings and evenings? I'm going with my girlfriend so she can climb during the day quite happily but I won't be so keen to wreck my skin. I'm really keen to see castle hill, flock hill, quantum field etc.
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What is the season like between October and February. I guess that's summer down under, so what would it be like to come on a climbing trip to NZ/OZ for those months?
Not the best time to come to Oz - 3 of the months you're talking about are in the height of summer and you'll die in the heat. Most people hit the beach/surf or do routes where some shade can be found.
Ideal time to come over is between now and the end of September for NSW and for Victoria (Gramps/Araps) - Their winter is very much like a British winter but with more better days. A good time for that area can be around Easter tho.
Look me up if you're heading over. I point you in the direction of those nice, soft Aussie 11's! ;)
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Look me up if you're heading over. I point you in the direction of those nice, soft Aussie 11's! ;)
From what i've heard I should be looking for those soft 13's since I can just about climb 7C over here... :lol:
more seriously, i've emailed you for more info!
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Ha HA!! ;D
Theres a few 13's that'll test you, like the unrepeated 'Genesis' at Crumbly or the sitter to Forced Entry.
Anyway, I've replied to your mail.
Cheers.
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Thanks Ben. What kind of temps are you talking about in the mornings and evenings? I'm going with my girlfriend so she can climb during the day quite happily but I won't be so keen to wreck my skin. I'm really keen to see castle hill, flock hill, quantum field etc.
Well, it can be pretty cool in the mornings. I've got out to the Hill before nine in summer and it's been pretty perfect (even a light frost if you're dead early) , however it soon gets back up into the twenties (degrees C) and it all gets a bit hard. Even through the winter I climbed most days in just a t-shirt and thin fleece between problems. Other days I climbed with a foot of snow on the ground...
In summer up at Flock it sometimes stays better thanks to the breeze, then again it can be unbearable if the wind fucks off. You'll definitely get plenty done, particularly if you get a rare overcast, breezy day. Problem is that the weather can be too good, but if you're a first time visitor I wouldn't worry about it too much. Look for shady problems, go high up, climb early and late etc and you'll have a great time. Equally so, a long day at the Hill, climbing as many problems as you can is unrivaled for entertainment. It's easy to climb over a hundred problems in a few hours there. The ultimate circuit venue!
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forced entry will be right up uncles street
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:guilty: ha ha ha ha ha ha... although dense, why do you keep coming back for more? :shag:
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probably cos he wants you in him :o
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Look me up if you're heading over. I point you in the direction of those nice, soft Aussie 11's! ;)
From what i've heard I should be looking for those soft 13's since I can just about climb 7C over here... :lol:
more seriously, i've emailed you for more info!
Youll be lucky - they might go in the perfect baltic days of sheffield for it never fucking gets cold here. It was the first day of winter yesterday and it was pushing 20 degrees!
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Oh stop whinging. It was 9 degrees yesterday when I got up. What more do you want?
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Anyone wanting to check the weather...here's what the weatherman says...... :-\
http://www.metservice.co.nz/default/index.php?pkey=190715&class=menu
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will castle hill be in nick in august? or snowy?
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Does anyone have any essential ticks in the lower grades at Castle Hill (up to V4ish) or is it easier for me just to get lost in a sea of grey limestone having a go at what I fancy until my tips run with blood and my forearms explode?
Also any other worthy spots worth a visit, we will definitely be in Wanaka for a bit, and hopefully get to Payne's Ford. What are Rhino and Elephant rocks like? More of the same as CH, or worth checking out?
At Quantum Field:The right side of The Cauldron, v4, Top Heavy, v3. Spantastic v3 Just over the fence at Spittle Hill, BEAUTIFUL EDGES v4, Fetish v4, Beatnik, v3 Tuppimaster standing start v3, Basilisk v4
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will castle hill be in nick in august? or snowy?
The weather starts coming right from August but is not consistant.
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I'd say that the Hill will be in good condition (allowing for the odd snowy period) from early June through to October. Gets a bit warm after October. When I lived out there I had no trouble climbing at the Hill a couple of times a week right through winter. Even with snow on the ground you can usually climb and the basin topography means that its usually dry there even if its raining/snowing as you come over Porter Pass. So don't be put off by bad weather in Chch or on the Pass.
In fact, some of the best days up there where days when you had to wade through snow to get to Spittle or Quantum Field, but then found excellent conditions and frequently areas clear of snow once you got onto north facing slopes.
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10416/normal_horseshoe-area-panarama.jpg)
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Does anyone have any essential ticks in the lower grades at Castle Hill (up to V4ish) or is it easier for me just to get lost in a sea of grey limestone having a go at what I fancy until my tips run with blood and my forearms explode?
Also any other worthy spots worth a visit, we will definitely be in Wanaka for a bit, and hopefully get to Payne's Ford. What are Rhino and Elephant rocks like? More of the same as CH, or worth checking out?
At Quantum Field:The right side of The Cauldron, v4, Top Heavy, v3. Spantastic v3 Just over the fence at Spittle Hill, BEAUTIFUL EDGES v4, Fetish v4, Beatnik, v3 Tuppimaster standing start v3, Basilisk v4
Cheers for the heads up, but it's a year ago that I was there. Would love to get back, but other plans this year.
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Does anyone have any essential ticks in the lower grades at Castle Hill (up to V4ish) or is it easier for me just to get lost in a sea of grey limestone having a go at what I fancy until my tips run with blood and my forearms explode?
Also any other worthy spots worth a visit, we will definitely be in Wanaka for a bit, and hopefully get to Payne's Ford. What are Rhino and Elephant rocks like? More of the same as CH, or worth checking out?
At Quantum Field:The right side of The Cauldron, v4, Top Heavy, v3. Spantastic v3 Just over the fence at Spittle Hill, BEAUTIFUL EDGES v4, Fetish v4, Beatnik, v3 Tuppimaster standing start v3, Basilisk v4
Cheers for the heads up, but it's a year ago that I was there. Would love to get back, but other plans this year.
I noticed the date after I posted Doh! Still, the names are there now for anyone else who is thinking of coming out here. I'm happy to elaborate if need be.
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I'd say that the Hill will be in good condition (allowing for the odd snowy period) from early June through to October. Gets a bit warm after October. When I lived out there I had no trouble climbing at the Hill a couple of times a week right through winter. Even with snow on the ground you can usually climb and the basin topography means that its usually dry there even if its raining/snowing as you come over Porter Pass. So don't be put off by bad weather in Chch or on the Pass.
In fact, some of the best days up there where days when you had to wade through snow to get to Spittle or Quantum Field, but then found excellent conditions and frequently areas clear of snow once you got onto north facing slopes.
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10416/normal_horseshoe-area-panarama.jpg)
While it is possible to climb year round at Castle Hill, June is not the time you want to travel half way around the world to be there. The best time to climb is Spring . The days are getting longer and warmer but still chilly enough for good friction. spring is also between the winter ski season and the summer tourist season so there should be cheaper airfairs to be had as well as accommodation and car rental, etc.
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Off out there at the end of this week. Not a climbing trip, but I am trying to wangle some time at Castle Hill on the last day before we finish in Christchurch.
If I go, I will probably be limited to doing whatever there are other people doing as some of it looks high and not really what you want to be doing without pads or guidebook (day rental of pad and guidebook from somewhere nearby?). Word on the street is that Castle Hill is for looking around at the pretty rocks and Flock Hill over the road is where to go for climbing. Is this true?
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Pads and guide can be rented in Christchurch, or could in 2011 (links on the wiki). There were pads available to rent closer to Castle Hill but you'd have to hunt the net to find out where (a hostel and a cafe apparently).
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Off out there at the end of this week. Not a climbing trip, but I am trying to wangle some time at Castle Hill on the last day before we finish in Christchurch.
If I go, I will probably be limited to doing whatever there are other people doing as some of it looks high and not really what you want to be doing without pads or guidebook (day rental of pad and guidebook from somewhere nearby?). Word on the street is that Castle Hill is for looking around at the pretty rocks and Flock Hill over the road is where to go for climbing. Is this true?
You should definitely try to climb if you can. The climbing in quantum field is fantastic - maybe not as good as flock hill, and maybe a bit polished, but there are loads of brilliant problems there of all sizes and styles. I have climbed there a lot by myself. Better to have atleast one pad but there are plenty of problems you can climb without pads. You can rent pads from the cafe in Springfield (20 mins towards christchurch). There is also some fun bouldering near Queenstown and Wanaka if you have a few hours. Have fun!
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If you are at Castle Hill for a day then you ideally need a local to give the tour if you want to make anything of the day. If you can scrounge a guidebook then that will help a lot - the new is very good at guiding you round a complex area.
You could have a good day without a pad as it's not all highball death and the landings are pretty good as a rule. That said you can hire mats at Bivouac (outdoor shop) in Christchurch or at the petrol station in Springfield.
The word on the street is wrong, between Spittle Hill, the Quantum Field and Wuthering Heights there is shitloads of good stuff to do. Yes, Flock Hill is amazing but it's also closed for lambing until Xmas day.
Have a look at this:
http://castlehillbasin.co.nz (http://castlehillbasin.co.nz)
If you need any more info then pm me, I may even be able act as tour guide if you're wealthy enough!
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Pads can currently be rented at the cafe in Springfield, which is about half way between ChCh and Castle Hill (time wise). They also rent them out at the Youth Hostel (where I am at the moment as it happens). Not everything is highball, and there's more than enough to keep you entertained for a day or two if you don't have a pad or spotter.
The guide to Spittle Hill is currently available at quality retailers in the UK: http://www.rockrun.com/the-definitive-spittle-hill-climbing-guide?ref=1 (http://www.rockrun.com/the-definitive-spittle-hill-climbing-guide?ref=1)
The grades and starring are pretty bollocks but it does at least give you a rough idea where stuff is. Spittle Hill is part of Castle Hill, and unlike Flock Hill doesn't have any access problems. The Quantum Field which is the most obvious part of Castle Hill is pretty bobbins for climbing IMO. The rocks are impressive though!
As a final word of warning the weather is very unprecictable. It can go from incredibly hot with not a cloud in the sky in the sky to torrential rain in about 30 seconds! The rock does dry very quickly though.
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Last time I saw a pad from the Springfield cafe it looked knackered, the petrol stations ones were good a couple of years ago when I last rented them. If you're in Christchurch you could borrow my pads and a guidebook
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Last time I saw a pad from the Springfield cafe it looked knackered, the petrol stations ones were good a couple of years ago when I last rented them. If you're in Christchurch you could borrow my pads and a guidebook
Good knowledge! I haven't seen any pads from the cafe (I brought my own). The ones here at the YH are in excellent nick though.
I was probably being a bit harsh on Quantum Field. I'm sure there's loads of good stuff, but for an outsider the style did seem a bit 'extreme'.
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I used the mattress from our camper van wrapped in a tarp for a pad, not the best but better than nowt. If you only have limited time just wander the rocks and have a go at whatever looks fun / safe enough. Saying that, Run and Jump slab is fun and worth finding. No pad needed, the crux is the first move, then slab padding where you will slither rather than fall
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9Q_RDbqbm4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9Q_RDbqbm4)
(Using a pad is cheating unless you are short)
There is a bit of polish in places, but it's not much compared to say Avon Gorge.
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Thanks for the info guys.
If I do get there it will be on Thursday 20th November at some point. So if anybody wants to be free that day and give me a tour, just send me a PM!
Alternatively I'll head into Springfield and rent a pad and then see if the locals (if there are any about on a weekday!) can point me at the classics in Quantum Field.
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Will, the following day is a public holiday in Canterbury. You'll have much more chance of hooking up with someone that day.
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Alas, that will be our last day so we'll need to be dropping off the camper.
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Last day; only one thing left to do - PARTY IN SPRINGFIELD!
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Just relaxing with a coffee in Christchurch after pleasant couple of hours on The Hill. Tagged along with a local from Hokitika, Jonno :wave:, and enjoyed some lovely problems. Not sure what they were all called but the highlight was probably latching the dyno on Rocket Boy and a tricky slab called The Curse. Charming crag in a spectacular country.