UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: a dense loner on November 01, 2004, 08:44:53 pm
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boulder probs do suffer from this. people trying the prob with their eyes n saying how hard they are. case in point nadin's "who needs ready brek" as fatboy said "it was done in the 80's!!!!!! my reply would be so what it's a path n it's not 7c+ like people say. granted i had beta, but i also was cold, in both body n fingers, and had a fucked back (which is why i didn't do the final 5b move :oops: ).
are there any other "hard"probs out there which people have thought didn't deserve their rep?
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monk life, flashed it yesterday, piece of piss, probably only about v8...
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cheers fingers. anyone got anything constructive?
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I wouldn't go so far as to call it a path! I think 7c is the agreed grade, and its reputation came from stopping a lot of very good climber (Bransby also came off where you did, it's not over there by any stretch of the imagination!). The last move isn't 5b, unless you have a very warped opinion of grades.
Direct start to Leading Fireman (wright's rock) had the same reputation of being 'almost impossible' but settled at 7c'ish. I suppose it's just the nature of climbing, what's cutting edge one day settles down a few years later. If no one repeats it in that time, it takes on a reputation.
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I thought that the direct into Leading Fireman was about 7a+ - big first joint positive holds and good feet, it's just a bit high and feels a bit committing, but if it were at ground level it would be easy. I though the start to Fingers was harder. The indirect start to Fireman Direct from under the roof just right via a two finger pocket is good though, and harder still (I thought). Good venue.
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big first joint positive holds
2-3mm deep then? :wink:
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The indirect start to Fireman Direct from under the roof just right via a two finger pocket is good though, and harder still.
Isn't that the V6 in Staffs guide??????, Found that quite tricky due to being a short arse. Or are you talking about the superdirect from the port hole to the tiny crimp in roof to join the bucket on Fireman direct via a HUGE dyno.
(http://images2.fotopic.net/?iid=y3ifki&outx=600&oq=0)
Managed to hang the dyno once but its real tricky to hang.
Class venue, always quiet.
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when i first saw this i thought it was about people rather than problems.
i mean some of you sound like real mean fucker's. :hidesofa:
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Isn't that the V6 in Staffs guide??????
Well Fireman direct starts by jumping to the jug on the lip, so if you do a V6 start to reach the same point and finish up Fireman Direct, its harder. 7b+ for the link up, but I think that the method using the two finger pocket is different to the indirect start as there is a hard match on poor holds when moving left that seemed harder than anything on Fireman Direct its self, but I'm willing to be wrong. The start from the big porthole was easier I thought.
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What about the mandala, wasn't that a project with a massive reputation for a long time, untill sharma did it then everyone took notice and it ended up graded about v12 or something.
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exactly, i had this conversation with the big C n he said he was winning all these outdoor comps by turning up n trying the hardest things whereas other people would play it a bit safer. ie he was pretty much the only one trying the hard things
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Is churnet going to be in the new guide Ru ?
What grade is the main traverse, L-R ?
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Yup, L-R trav is 7b, but definitely easier than the full virgin wall trav that is also 7b.
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Where do you start the virgin wall traverse for the full 7b tick ?
Moving up at the end to extend it for a few moves always spits me off.