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the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Carliios on May 17, 2022, 09:40:37 am

Title: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: Carliios on May 17, 2022, 09:40:37 am
Took Sam Lawsons Qui Gone Gym and eliminated the side walls making it a fully pure narrow compression line. Maybe a hard one if you don’t have pecs! Not settled on grade yet but put it up at 6C+ - felt quite hard and took me about 10 or so burns to work out the triple bump beta.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CdglWDzDxqr/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: Fiend on May 17, 2022, 10:14:35 am
That's terrible beta for The Kursk!

On a more serious note, does eliminating a foothold or two from the other problem warrant a new name and claim?
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: Carliios on May 17, 2022, 10:53:00 am
That's terrible beta for The Kursk!

On a more serious note, does eliminating a foothold or two from the other problem warrant a new name and claim?

I would say so. I showed it to Sam and he said it looked really good. Sam did it using kneebars using the side wall so not exactly using “one extra foothold”  :)
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: grimer on May 17, 2022, 11:06:34 am
I think I did FA of The Kursk. I certainly named it. I have a guilty smile every time I see the name written down.
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: Carliios on May 17, 2022, 11:08:50 am
I think I did FA of The Kursk. I certainly named it. I have a guilty smile every time I see the name written down.

the Kursk is the crack to the right isnt it? Looks mega!
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: Scouse D on May 17, 2022, 02:38:18 pm
Reminds me of the forgotten 'classic', Captain Thugwash at Higgar tor.
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22443.msg409666.html#msg409666
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: cheque on May 17, 2022, 02:57:56 pm
the Kursk is the crack to the right isnt it? Looks mega!

So mega that you didn’t climb it despite your pads already being underneath it?  :-\
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: Carliios on May 17, 2022, 03:35:17 pm
the Kursk is the crack to the right isnt it? Looks mega!

So mega that you didn’t climb it despite your pads already being underneath it?  :-\

There’s a thing called prioritising and not wasting skin. Just because I like the look of something doesn’t mean I’m gonna climb it there and then. Rocks not going anywhere is it  :chair:
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: CapitalistPunter on May 17, 2022, 04:01:38 pm
That's terrible beta for The Kursk!

On a more serious note, does eliminating a foothold or two from the other problem warrant a new name and claim?

I'd say it's logical. It feels a bit strange using the disjointed block to the left on the 6B+ version, so doing the pure compression line makes sense and climbs very differently.
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: Ross Barker on May 17, 2022, 04:10:58 pm
So mega that you didn’t climb it despite your pads already being underneath it?  :-\

It's already an established problem though, and there aren't any holds to eliminate ;)
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: Carliios on May 17, 2022, 04:21:11 pm
People chatting shit before they’ve even tried a climb, could there be anything that embodies UKB better? I think not!
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: CapitalistPunter on May 17, 2022, 04:38:32 pm
 :popcorn:
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: Fiend on May 17, 2022, 05:11:53 pm
Like you're going to lose any skin on your fingers on The Kursk  ::) Although maybe one could do a new problem by not jamming it  :-\
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: Carliios on May 17, 2022, 05:16:20 pm
Like you're going to lose any skin on your fingers on The Kursk  ::) Although maybe one could do a new problem by not jamming it  :-\

I’ve done quite a bit of crack climbing and you definitely lose skin on both sides of the hands  :lol:
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: mr chaz on May 17, 2022, 05:30:41 pm
People chatting shit before they’ve even tried a climb, could there be anything that embodies UKB better? I think not!

I’d actually say that’s the complete opposite of what embodies UKB
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: harrison on May 20, 2022, 05:03:22 pm
the low low start looks good
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: Will Hunt on May 20, 2022, 06:07:22 pm
I wonder what that will be called?
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: CapitalistPunter on May 20, 2022, 06:28:36 pm
Nice one compression wod
Title: Re: [peak] [Burbage South Edge] Applied Stress 6C+/7A
Post by: Carliios on May 20, 2022, 06:53:16 pm
I wonder what that will be called?

Nothing different. Just changing the line to start from the lower start at 7A instead of 6C+
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