UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Fiend on May 06, 2022, 04:37:41 pm
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Because it is such a good potential discussion.
Blocs only please. And anyone who mentions the slot on The Edge Problem is barred for life, you disgusting animal(s). Same goes for The Cave.
Slopers on Riley's Arete - as good as grit if not better.
Crimps on Ultimate Warrior Stand - the perfect board problem for punters.
Weird micro-divot + sloper crimp stack "thing" on NASA - man that takes some working out and subtlety.
The slots on Supercrack - are they pockets or fingerjams?? Who knows, they're bloody good though.
Left hand sloper sidepull on Ribcrackin' - just doesn't seem good enough to work as a hold, all about the position.
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The 4 ft of lip following the crack on Higgs Traverse. Perfectly clean rounded slopeyness with a delightful texture.
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The undercut on The Severed Ear at Manor Crag.
The weird pinchy shard on Ping at Milestone Buttress.
The double-pocket-pinch-thing on The Wolf above Wavelength. If the topout ever gets cleaned let me know as it's a sweet problem!
The square nubs on Killerweed at Wavelength too.
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I know you said blocs only but you're going to have to accept the backhand guppy on the upper half of A Skip of Fools, on The Diamond. The guidebook says it's the best hold in Wales so it must be true.
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What's the history of the "Guppy"?
Moat people know what it means, but who coined it, or what's the background?
Iove a good guppy!
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What's the history of the "Guppy"?
Moat people know what it means, but who coined it, or what's the background?
Iove a good guppy!
Good question, hopefully someone can shed some light on the guppy origins.
Not Wales but there's a problem locally -Shining Cliff- that uses a pretty cool underguppy.
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What's the history of the "Guppy"?
Moat people know what it means, but who coined it, or what's the background?
Iove a good guppy!
Good question, hopefully someone can shed some light on the guppy origins.
Not Wales but there's a problem locally -Shining Cliff- that uses a pretty cool underguppy.
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The pinch at sheep pen and the golf ball on King of Drunks both spring to mind
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The stuck on bits on popcorn party also spring to mind as memorable holds. I wouldn't call them nice though...
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What's the history of the "Guppy"?
Moat people know what it means, but who coined it, or what's the background?
Iove a good guppy!
Good question, hopefully someone can shed some light on the guppy origins.
Not Wales but there's a problem locally -Shining Cliff- that uses a pretty cool underguppy.
Not Wales again but speaking of undercut guppies the keel hold is pretty good!
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The small pocket/mono hold on Wizard Crack and Psychobilly. I always feel like I'm going to damage my arthritic old fingers using these but never do and they are both surprisingly good holds to boot.
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Haven't bouldered much in Wales but did think the starting pinch on Emyrs Arete was pretty cool, lovely width for a pinch and fully quartz
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The pinch on Smoke a Bloke and the slopey rail on Special K are the first things I thought of also the LH slot on Diesel Power because it's so ratty
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The mono pocket / thread that you shakeout at when you get to the headwall on Face Race 7a+ at LPT :punk:
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Most of the holds on Eat the Meek, PYB boulder. Unreal texture.
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What's the history of the "Guppy"?
Moat people know what it means, but who coined it, or what's the background?
Iove a good guppy!
Percy was probably the first person I heard using it, which was a long time before I heard anyone else use it (with the exception of people that climbed a lot with Percy) so I'm guessing either he invented it, or he was only one or two degrees off the person that did (in the Kevin Bacon sense).
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Most of the holds on Eat the Meek, PYB boulder. Unreal texture.
Good shout with that boulder's texture!
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The finger/knuckle jam on Bus Stop Right. More interesting than a crimp and as good as a jug if your fingers fit it as well as mine.
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What's the history of the "Guppy"?
Moat people know what it means, but who coined it, or what's the background?
Iove a good guppy!
Percy was probably the first person I heard using it, which was a long time before I heard anyone else use it (with the exception of people that climbed a lot with Percy) so I'm guessing either he invented it, or he was only one or two degrees off the person that did (in the Kevin Bacon sense).
I was wondering about this the other day as it seems less logical than the American "meat hook"
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It's common slang for hands or fists, not just restricted to climbing.
https://www.yourdictionary.com/meat-hook
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Again, not wales but the crimp on sausage king is mega ergonomic
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:off: :offtopic: :chair:
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Back on topic: I am going to be bias and say the sloper on my own problem "Prisoners of the Sun".
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vswRtj_WTkpi_1OEgpdEiVtRSTLpirv9/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vswRtj_WTkpi_1OEgpdEiVtRSTLpirv9/view?usp=sharing
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I can second that one, one of my favourite problems in the pass!
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There's a lovely sloper on Arse Soul in the pass, and the vertical rail on Wavelength is beautifully textured. There is also a perfect sloping sidepull which looks like it has been carved out of an otherwise blank bit of wall on Big Red Button in Tan y Grisiau which always pleases me.
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I always remember that photo of Katzy on Caseg Groove SS. That looks nice?
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The deep incut left hand pocket on Roof Of A Baby Buddha is lush