UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: shark on April 28, 2022, 09:46:21 am
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From Dawid
https://youtu.be/HRApwe0ysFI
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Should have called it Help the Young.
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Nice, that wee patch of sunshine is very cool too.
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Bit confused, is this not an old Scouse Dave problem already in the guide?
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Doesn't Winner Stays On climb the arete on its left? I've not done it so don't know how similar they are. I assume the sit is new.
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That's not my recollection, but either way it doesn't appear that sequences are in anyway independent. What they do in the vid looks familiar from playing on it but I think Scouse did use some lank.. Not sure about sit - may well be new.
Nice, that wee patch of sunshine is very cool too.
Aware I may appear to be pissing on all chips here, but I'm pretty sure it's a torch.
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I've not been, just thought at 7 seconds in it looked like sun shining through a small gap. Probably just my romantic whimsy.
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Dawid did contact me about this. I climbed from the same point (standing start), to the same finish (the pocket) via the sidepull in the middle of the face. Dawid goes straight up the arete which is harder. Some might say he used a duff sequence on a classic. Other might say I ruined a future classic by finding the easiest way to climb the feature. So many parallels with the Prow controversy.
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I also refute the claims of 'lank'. I used skill, perseverance and a +5 ape index.
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lank is a skill. It's called using what you got.
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Doesn't Winner Stays On climb the arete on its left?
That's what the guidebook says.
Stardust climbs the arete on its right. Felt like a different problem to me.
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I have done the stardust stand before last winter however I was just climbing "winner stays on", didn't realise it could be different line, either way I had fun, also from the juggy pocket there is one extra hard move at the end that wasn't in the vid which I feel like adds quite a bit to the problem, I would say that is the crux