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the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Eddies on February 10, 2022, 09:16:35 am
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I’m going to Font at the end of this month, and I’m interested to hear about your favourite circuit there.
In the past I’ve always headed straight to a project and warmed up on the closest warmups then got cracking; but this year I fancy spending the first day or two enjoying a couple of circuits.
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Sky blue at rocher canon, has one total sandbag of a slab in the middle, in a wee corridor, but other than that is just great from start to finish
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Is that the one with razor sharp grattons? I generally avoid anything with those.
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Thanks Rodma,
Will check it out.
I went to Rocher Canon for the first time on my last trip and did a couple of white 7As there and thought hey were excellent.
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Canon is one of my favourite areas, not too spread out, but still nice and open, and easy to navigate your way around, and a good spread of problems, all a good height.
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It's not really climbing, more like a rest day scramble in clean trainers, but the orange circuit at Apremont is one that stands out. I haven't actually done it all, just dipped in and out of it at the end of a day. It's easy, but still thoughtful, scrambling, up and down and in and out of interesting and surprising terrain, often with the slightest hint of spice from uninviting landings. I was always really pleased to see where the circuit painter was taking us next - they really seemed to get a lot out of the rock there.
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Is that the one with razor sharp grattons? I generally avoid anything with those.
No at least I don't think so, I don't recall it being particularly crimpy, loads of knacky problems on it, with quite a few overhanging once it gets properly underway.
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It's not really climbing, more like a rest day scramble in clean trainers, but the orange circuit at Apremont is one that stands out. I haven't actually done it all, just dipped in and out of it at the end of a day. It's easy, but still thoughtful, scrambling, up and down and in and out of interesting and surprising terrain, often with the slightest hint of spice from uninviting landings. I was always really pleased to see where the circuit painter was taking us next - they really seemed to get a lot out of the rock there.
Had completely forgotten about that one, isn't that the mountaineering one that goes on for km? Seem to recall a few spicy onsight downclimbs. Failed to complete it on a similar rest day
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It's not really climbing, more like a rest day scramble in clean trainers, but the orange circuit at Apremont is one that stands out. I haven't actually done it all, just dipped in and out of it at the end of a day. It's easy, but still thoughtful, scrambling, up and down and in and out of interesting and surprising terrain, often with the slightest hint of spice from uninviting landings. I was always really pleased to see where the circuit painter was taking us next - they really seemed to get a lot out of the rock there.
Had completely forgotten about that one, isn't that the mountaineering one that goes on for km? Seem to recall a few spicy onsight downclimbs. Failed to complete it on a similar rest day
You may be thinking of the mountain circuit at Cuisiniere? Trainers and a backpack job, it's 6km long I think? The red circuit there is a fantastic day out too I thought, not that I managed to complete it!
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It's not really climbing, more like a rest day scramble in clean trainers, but the orange circuit at Apremont is one that stands out. I haven't actually done it all, just dipped in and out of it at the end of a day. It's easy, but still thoughtful, scrambling, up and down and in and out of interesting and surprising terrain, often with the slightest hint of spice from uninviting landings. I was always really pleased to see where the circuit painter was taking us next - they really seemed to get a lot out of the rock there.
Had completely forgotten about that one, isn't that the mountaineering one that goes on for km? Seem to recall a few spicy onsight downclimbs. Failed to complete it on a similar rest day
You may be thinking of the mountain circuit at Cuisiniere? Trainers and a backpack job, it's 6km long I think? The red circuit there is a fantastic day out too I thought, not that I managed to complete it!
Ah, that's the one, is it not also painted with orange, only it's stripes rather than numbers?
If so, that's where my confusion had come from, if not it's just the drink
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I absolutely adore the white circuit problems at Isatis. Although I have yet to try to do it as a proper circuit. Definitely one day.
I remember having great fun doing the blue circuit at Apremont and the orange one at 91.1.
I'm actually struggling to think of a bad circuit that I've tried. Although I'd avoid somewhere that's too esoteric as the problems might be dusty, or missing numbers. But otherwise the consideration could be whether you fancy a sandy open place (like cul du chien, 91.1, elephant) or wandering through the trees (like Apremont), which can feel more adventurous. Both are great in their own way. Also, doing a circuit somewhere you're not familiar with can make it more fun too. Especially, if it's not busy. God I love Font.
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Doing the “baltic blue” circuit at Gorges d’Apremont is one of my greatest memories in climbing. It’s about 4-6a and my mate did it as an active rest day with one pad, not realising that a lot of it’s really quite high. It did not feel like a rest day.
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The reds. Definitely the reds :2thumbsup:
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La Mauve at Dame Jouanne is the biggie, 76 problems of supposedly straight forward grades taking an amazing long winding journey around the crag and pinnacle. There is some soloing, lots of quality and routefinding has a surprisingly big mountain route feel. I stumbled on it with Unc after popping a tendon on salle gosse on day 1; it made the trip.
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Again not a circuit, but the 25 bosses is a brilliant outing for a non climbing day. It gives you a surprising beating in the legs for a run/walk in a flat forest. Loads of good scrambling over the hills (bosses) with great running in between. We started it at the Croix st Jerome, but just as easy to start at sabots
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The blues or oranges at bois rond are a low stress chilled day out with good climbing on some varied features.
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Red circuit at Bois Rond is my favourite. Also the blue and red circuit run mostly parallel, so you can climb both: more climbing, less faff
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Again not a circuit, but the 25 bosses is a brilliant outing for a non climbing day. It gives you a surprising beating in the legs for a run/walk in a flat forest. Loads of good scrambling over the hills (bosses) with great running in between. We started it at the Croix st Jerome, but just as easy to start at sabots
Good shout this, I've only walked a bit of it on a soggy day but it was fun and made me realise the forest is hillier than I thought. Great how they make the walk more interesting by winding through features too.
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It's not really climbing, more like a rest day scramble in clean trainers, but the orange circuit at Apremont is one that stands out. I haven't actually done it all, just dipped in and out of it at the end of a day. It's easy, but still thoughtful, scrambling, up and down and in and out of interesting and surprising terrain, often with the slightest hint of spice from uninviting landings. I was always really pleased to see where the circuit painter was taking us next - they really seemed to get a lot out of the rock there.
Had completely forgotten about that one, isn't that the mountaineering one that goes on for km? Seem to recall a few spicy onsight downclimbs. Failed to complete it on a similar rest day
Think this is the one that sticks in my memory went there after bas Cuvier and followed oranges for days barely touching the ground until they ran out an we were completely lost in the woods.
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The red parcours-montagne circuit at Franchard Cuisiniere (http://cosiroc.fr/index.php/foret-domaniale/franchard/fr-cuisiniere) was being worked on when I was out last September. A fun 'rest day' circuit best done in approach shoes. It's damn long though, I didn't manage the full thing.
The mauve circuit at Dame Jouanne (http://cosiroc.fr/images/fiches/dj-mauve-arthaud.pdf) is a superb day out. Another gigantic circuit, really quite adventurous with a few sections I opted out of since the risk factor was a little above my limits. Would recommend wearing climbing shoes with socks for this one.
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It's not really climbing, more like a rest day scramble in clean trainers, but the orange circuit at Apremont is one that stands out. I haven't actually done it all, just dipped in and out of it at the end of a day. It's easy, but still thoughtful, scrambling, up and down and in and out of interesting and surprising terrain, often with the slightest hint of spice from uninviting landings. I was always really pleased to see where the circuit painter was taking us next - they really seemed to get a lot out of the rock there.
Had completely forgotten about that one, isn't that the mountaineering one that goes on for km? Seem to recall a few spicy onsight downclimbs. Failed to complete it on a similar rest day
Think this is the one that sticks in my memory went there after bas Cuvier and followed oranges for days barely touching the ground until they ran out an we were completely lost in the woods.
To be clear, the orange circuit that people are referring to (the very very long one at Cuisiniere, I think) is a different animal to that which I described at Apremont.
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We really loved the Canon sky blue circuit too, and Canon was my kids favourite place for various reasons. We got spanked on quite a few problems on that circuit but, for more competent parties, I imagine it would be pretty much exactly the best sort of level and variety to start a trip with...
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The mauve circuit at Dame Jouanne (http://cosiroc.fr/images/fiches/dj-mauve-arthaud.pdf) is a superb day out. Another gigantic circuit, really quite adventurous with a few sections I opted out of since the risk factor was a little above my limits. Would recommend wearing climbing shoes with socks for this one.
I did it in tennies. The only move I couldn't do was a traverse 2" above the sand.
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The mauve circuit at Dame Jouanne (http://cosiroc.fr/images/fiches/dj-mauve-arthaud.pdf) is a superb day out. Another gigantic circuit, really quite adventurous with a few sections I opted out of since the risk factor was a little above my limits. Would recommend wearing climbing shoes with socks for this one.
I did it in tennies. The only move I couldn't do was a traverse 2" above the sand.
That little section would be quite something in tennies. I wouldn't fancy some of the higher stuff in anything other than climbing shoes, but each to their own.
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Five ten used to make really good approach shoes. I don't think any if the high stuff was any harder than VS, but yeah it's definitely soloing.
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Great thread! Was going to start similar one.
We're staying really close to Sabot but am keen to avoid the crowds, has anyone been to La Segognole - on paper there's a decent Orange circuit...
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Great thread! Was going to start similar one.
We're staying really close to Sabot but am keen to avoid the crowds, has anyone been to La Segognole - on paper there's a decent Orange circuit...
I've spent a couple of afternoons at La Segognole. It's a nice quiet spot. Fairly compact with an open area near the start of the yellow circuit where you can set up camp. The lack of traffic means some problems might need a brush. I'll be going back at some point...
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Yes, circuits at segognole are good, park at the sabots parking though! Not along the road that is really close, someone has hurt cars parked there before.
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It isn't the best circuit in the forest however if you want something a bit quiter and out the way then i really enjoyed picking off reds at Restant du Long Rocher just north of Bourron Marlotte. Nothing too high, close to the parking, problems don't seem as overused as in some areas. The only thing i would note is that you probably woudn't want to do the full circuit as several of the problems were dirty when i went, what was clean though was the standard brilliant technical font fun.
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It isn't the best circuit in the forest however if you want something a bit quiter and out the way then i really enjoyed picking off reds at Restant du Long Rocher just north of Bourron Marlotte. Nothing too high, close to the parking, problems don't seem as overused as in some areas. The only thing i would note is that you probably woudn't want to do the full circuit as several of the problems were dirty when i went, what was clean though was the standard brilliant technical font fun.
Yes! This was really good fun. We went there on our last day and I legged it round for about an hour. Probably not quite the same quality as other venues, but lovely for something a bit quieter and different
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Thanks for all your replies...Lots to look forward to.
I'm definitely going to suggest we walk the 25 Bosses if we get a wet day.
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It isn't the best circuit in the forest however if you want something a bit quiter and out the way then i really enjoyed picking off reds at Restant du Long Rocher just north of Bourron Marlotte. Nothing too high, close to the parking, problems don't seem as overused as in some areas.
Agreed. I’ve been there in summer and really enjoyed those reds, plus there are some excellent 7a/7a+s.
I’ve run the 25 Bosses a couple of times. It’s surprisingly tough given that’s it’s only 16k/450m. To be honest the section from Sabot to Croix Saint Jerome has always felt pretty tedious it’s so rocky/slow. Maybe better to start at JA Martin (Cailleau) or Sabot. The most runnable section is from JA Martin to Pivot. Quite tricky in the wet spotting the red markings on the rocks.
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One general thing from my last Fontainebleau trip, unless a bunch of work has been done since, the track leading to the Croix St. Jerome parking is an absolute state, to the point that we chose to park at the Roche aux Sabots/Trois Pignons parking and walk from there to access Rocher des Souris and 95.2.
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There are some other shorter randonnées in the forest.
Fôret walks (http://fabricesueur.free.fr/fontainebleau.html)
The blue route starting at Canche aux Merciers is well marked and worthwhile.
The route in the link starting over the road from CaM wasn't so well marked.
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It's worth spending the 10 or so euro on the IGN Map which has a lot of the walks marked on it if you want to do some walking / running.
Fatneck (I think it was you!) I still have it by my desk for posting to you, as I was going to do before first lockdown.
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It's worth spending the 10 or so euro on the IGN Map which has a lot of the walks marked on it if you want to do some walking / running.
I’ve got one of these going for a few fuckalls if anyone’s keen.
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Great thread! Was going to start similar one.
We're staying really close to Sabot but am keen to avoid the crowds, has anyone been to La Segognole - on paper there's a decent Orange circuit...
I've spent a couple of afternoons at La Segognole. It's a nice quiet spot. Fairly compact with an open area near the start of the yellow circuit where you can set up camp. The lack of traffic means some problems might need a brush. I'll be going back at some point...
I was going to mention Segognole. Lovely quiet spot.
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After recommendation from a good little article by Tom Newberry on rock and run (https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flash-rock-run-blog/the-fontainebleau-circuit-destination-article), we diol The red circuit at Rocher Guichot, which was really good, only 22 problems .
Initially we went to try the Red circuit at JA Martin, but couldn't find half the problems and they were all pretty dirty.
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Fatneck (I think it was you!) I still have it by my desk for posting to you, as I was going to do before first lockdown.
Huzzah!! Have messaged you on Faceache Chris - thank you!
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If like me you leave your paper IGN map at home everytime you go to font then free access to the IGN maps can be found at:
https://www.geoportail.gouv.fr/carte (click on cartes at the top left and then select carte topographique IGN)
I have sent this to my homescreen on an android phone and it then works as a full screen app. Also from this you can print sections of the map as pdf if you require offline use without using up data (now an issue again with some phone contracts...)
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The Safran circuit at Beauvais Hameau is the best circuit I've done in Font. I don't think it's well known about as it's not in any guide I've seen.
Made it into my best of 2016:
Honourable mention
The entire Safran circuit at Beauvais Hameau (Bleau.info) (https://bleau.info/hameau/circuit136.html). 100 problems of unspoilt sandstone goodness. No pads, just a small rucksack and a pair of shoes. Best problem - number 60, the 3+ climbers Deliverance.
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Fond memories of the Black circuit at Gros Sablons. Well out and away from the honey pots, tricky to find, quite spread out to begin with but not super hard for a Black circuit. Mostly 4+ to 6a+ with some memorable highballs and the grand finale being the ultra classic 6c La Liberte.