UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Dolly on January 05, 2022, 04:45:24 pm
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Did this today.
No idea if it's been done before but couldn't see any mention of it. Couple of good pulls into the stand.
Was harder than A Couple More Yards and Weather Report.
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Sorry, that's my poor writing up. It was always a sit start and in my opinion always 7A except Old Cheese was adamant it was only 6C when he did it It maybe feels like 6C when you've got 8A in the tank.
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No Worries :)
Was amazed it hadn't been recorded as it seemed so obvious. It's deffo harder than A Couple more yards and Weather Report though.
Did you go from RH 2 finger pocket to crimp with LH then via a thumb sprag wide pinch for RH to the break ?
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The original beta was left hand and foot in low pocket/break, rh pockety thing. Pull on, lh to poor break and launch for the juggy break with right.
I've got a video of the FA beta, let me know if you're interested.
It would be good to try some less dynamic beta.
It's a great lump of rock, must have been mint up there today.
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Yes it really is a lovely lump :)