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the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: jimpopeonarope on December 16, 2021, 12:44:04 am

Title: [Peak] [Curbar] [E8 6C] Frowned Upon
Post by: jimpopeonarope on December 16, 2021, 12:44:04 am
I think I did a new route at Curbar yesterday. Located on the 'Smiling Buttress' block, it climbs the center of the front face via bad slopers to reach the vague ramp. From here leap to the break and top out via the crack. Very highball 7C/+.

Any idea if it's been done before? The arete is the obvious line that still hasn't been done.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/51749884884/in/dateposted-public/
Title: Re: [Peak] [Curbar] [E8 6C] Frowned Upon
Post by: Bonjoy on December 16, 2021, 09:22:35 am
Good work Jim! Pretty much sure that's new.
Title: Re: [Peak] [Curbar] [E8 6C] Frowned Upon
Post by: T_B on December 16, 2021, 10:33:25 am
Good effort Jim. Bet it felt spicey laying one on for that break. The arête and that wall have seen a fair amount of attention. I’m pretty sure Neil Bentley and Rich Heap top roped this or at least did the moves back in the day, but didn’t solo it. I remember Rich telling me about the dyno to the break when I was quizzing him about the arête. I thought the arête might go with a big dyno off a left-hand pinch on the arête and low right hand undercut, but it’s all falling away from you and there’s nothing decent for the left foot.
Title: Re: [Peak] [Curbar] [E8 6C] Frowned Upon
Post by: Fiend on December 16, 2021, 10:40:29 am
Good stuff  :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: [Peak] [Curbar] [E8 6C] Frowned Upon
Post by: cowboyhat on December 17, 2021, 11:00:50 am
Mega bit of blank canvas that, good effort.


BTW Jim reckons its in the 7c+ boulder range so can we agree its not '6c', what ever the fuck that means anyway...
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