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the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Felix14 on April 19, 2021, 11:20:36 pm

Title: [Peak][Wharncliffe][6B-7A+?][3 new?? probs]
Post by: Felix14 on April 19, 2021, 11:20:36 pm

3 problems on the back of the Bass rock. Probably climbed before but looked un-brushed.

1. 6B? Climbs wall from a sitter past undercuts to a  easier finish. Not great landing.

2. 6C+? From a low slot climb the prow direct past a wide pinch.

Felt hard until I did it but probs cos it was scary without a spot. Quite good though.

3. 7A+? From another slot level with previous problem work out to a mono on the arete and a scary finish.

This is quite poor due to a block leaning on the arete. Its quite hard not to dab and it would be much improved if this was moved, its quite big though. Also the mono maybe seems drilled but I can't really tell.

Title: Re: [Peak][Wharncliffe][6B-7A+?][3 new?? probs]
Post by: Felix14 on April 19, 2021, 11:22:10 pm

I've got a vid but I'll need to upload it to youtube and send a link?

Title: Re: [Peak][Wharncliffe][6B-7A+?][3 new?? probs]
Post by: Felix14 on April 19, 2021, 11:48:42 pm

Vid here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EriTIOcc8Zs

Title: Re: [Peak][Wharncliffe][6B-7A+?][3 new?? probs]
Post by: User deactivated. on April 20, 2021, 08:24:58 am

Nice work, where is this block?

The amount of undeveloped or at least undocumented bouldering at Wharncliffe is striking, although Bonjoy of this parish has done loads going off Instagram alone (eagerly awaiting a guide).

After getting my ass kicked on Kobe recently I brushed up the right arete, which I thought was quality. Would be good to see what you think if you're local:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DVX1Lv0-q8

From watching back this video i've also noticed the block in the background which looks to have potential!

Title: Re: [Peak][Wharncliffe][6B-7A+?][3 new?? probs]
Post by: Bonjoy on April 20, 2021, 09:09:34 am

Hi Felix

As far as i know probs 1 and 3 are new.
The rock scar on 1 is where I pulled off a loose flake, but can't recall actually climbing the wall.
I climbed 2 and have it down at 7a on my half done topo, 6c+ may well be more accurate. Nathan Lee also added a left hand finish to it which is bit easier at 6c. Hadn't given it a name yet.
I also did a decent 6b+ on the front of Bass Rock up the central blunt slabby rib to the first break.

Title: Re: [Peak][Wharncliffe][6B-7A+?][3 new?? probs]
Post by: Bonjoy on April 20, 2021, 09:11:30 am

If you let me know names for the other two I'll add to my text. I can send you a copy if you like. It's very incomplete but does have some value for figuring what has/hasn't been done.

Title: Re: [Peak][Wharncliffe][6B-7A+?][3 new?? probs]
Post by: Felix14 on April 20, 2021, 11:51:48 am

A copy of that would be much appreciated thanks.

1. Coup de Basse

3. Phil the Agony

Title: Re: [Peak][Wharncliffe][6B-7A+?][3 new?? probs]
Post by: Bonjoy on April 20, 2021, 12:04:41 pm

No problem. PM me your mobile number and i'll send via WhatsApp

Title: Re: [Peak][Wharncliffe][6B-7A+?][3 new?? probs]
Post by: Will Hunt on April 20, 2021, 01:09:33 pm

Quote from: Bonjoy on April 20, 2021, 12:04:41 pm

No problem. PM me your mobile number and i'll send via WhatsApp

If you ever put together a guide to the crag, Jon, then I'd be happy to put it up on Unknown Stones. I know it's not really our patch but it might be useful to have it publically available somewhere rather than flying round various people's hard drives.

Title: Re: [Peak][Wharncliffe][6B-7A+?][3 new?? probs]
Post by: Bradders on April 20, 2021, 01:14:42 pm

It is in Yorkshire at least ;)

Title: Re: [Peak][Wharncliffe][6B-7A+?][3 new?? probs]
Post by: Bonjoy on April 20, 2021, 01:15:55 pm

Cheers Will. Might well do that and/or esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com (http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com)

Title: Re: [Peak][Wharncliffe][6B-7A+?][3 new?? probs]
Post by: Will Hunt on April 20, 2021, 02:50:09 pm

Quote from: Bonjoy on April 20, 2021, 01:15:55 pm

Cheers Will. Might well do that and/or esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com (http://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com)

Ah of course. I knew that existed somewhere but had forgotten what it was called.