UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Scrambled_Ry on April 06, 2021, 09:49:00 am
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As above, can't seem to lay hands on much?
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It’s in the Peak Bouldering guide, but missing a lot of the filler-in lines. Also on peakbouldering.info under the Strines section.
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Yeah there's only 5 of the problems in the PDBG and on neither can I find decent topo on smallfield dale.
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For Smallfield Dale, UKC is the best resource. There’s a few photos of problems and that allows you to work out what the rest is. It’s fairly easy to walk past most of it (I did) as the blocks aren’t even chest height.
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I'm not really sure about the Dale as I've not climbed there, but figuring out the problems on the roof is doable using the UKC logbook descriptions while at the crag, as they're very clear and organised and there's good signal. The majority of the problems start or finish for either Larger Lout (starts on a flake in a corner at the left side of the roof) or Dancing Man (starts in the middle of the shelf), so once you know where those go the descriptions for everything else make sense.
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Cheers all.
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Must have been near to Smallfield Roof on Sunday. Looks a nice little venue.
Couple of Smallfield link-ups that have probably been done before, but don't appear to be on Peak Bouldering. King lines they certainly aren't, but they both climb quite well and it gave me something "new" to do.
Dancing Man Indirect 7A+ - Follow Dancing Man LH to the good holds on the lip, then traverse back right along Smallfield Lip to the Dancing Man finish. Not as contrived as it sounds and reasonably sustained.
Dancing Man Super Indirect 7A+ - Start as for Dancing Man (i.e., get the roof flake with your left hand) and then reverse Boning Technology to the roof flake on Lager Lout then follow Smallfield Lip to finish as for (you've guessed it!) Dancing Man.
Grades are a guess as a lot of the moves at Smallfield feel quite morpho. They both feel easier than Dancing Technology (roof traverse into Dancing Man), but I find the move on Dancing Man harder than the one on the LH so who knows.
Given they're not the greatest lines, I won't be that disappointed when the retro claims start.
https://vimeo.com/91198871
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YblO6pVGG7M