UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: rsp123 on March 13, 2021, 07:35:20 pm
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Does anyone have any beta or videos for this? Really can't work out the start at all.
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See the previous thread https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23955.msg442406.
I've looked at it and been baffled. The only video seems to be this, in which it is done incorrectly as the plinth is definitely out https://youtu.be/uarjFzatPmo?t=75
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I don't know this problem, but Dolph told me...put the pad on the ledge/plinth. Sit with the left foot on the back wall, right on an edge up and right. Pull up, drop a knee and dyno to the jug.
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I fall off the end of the link into Dark Art in this vid:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BUDBBIiBGmX/?igshid=1aefvmrmeyeng
Different angle:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BR1WAZCBzMO/?igshid=rmefmfp0tyb2
r-man is right, pad on the plinth, sit on it, take the black tufa pinch hold as an undercut with your right hand, left on some nothingness a little higher. Left toe on the start hold of Dark Art, right smearing down on some choss. Pull on, pull up and slap. Imagine it'll be a big old move if you're short!
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A mate did the link out of it last night and used the tufa for the left hand and a slopey crimp (reservation foothold) for the right hand. left foot low and a big old slap to cut-loose. Absolutely desperate if you’re short. it looks like a bus ride away getting out to the lip when you’re sat down. I’ll try Bradders beta next time
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I do it as Guy says - big jump over with rh. Feels very hard after a season of fingerboard and very easy after a season of flicky board climbing!
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Thanks for the replies. I will try those methods next time