UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Droyd on March 04, 2021, 01:04:51 pm
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Had a play on this yesterday but wasn't entirely sure what was in and what was out. Someone said that both the LH slot under the roof and bullet hold above the lip on Bullet are in, but the latter at least seemed a bit lame as surely then you're basically climbing Bullet? Especially if you're getting the same heel-toe out right in the roof.
Is it simply that since the hold on the lip broke this is the only way it's climbable now if you're not massively tall?
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Don't know about any lip hold breaking but pretty certain the bullet hold on Bullet is out. The sequence I've seen goes much more to the left than that part of the roof anyway. Sure there's a video somewhere.
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https://vimeo.com/127096754
https://vimeo.com/201732689
Both stay well clear of the lip stuff further right :thumbsup:
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I did it (a long time ago) avoiding using anything out right (so not putting my foot on the Bullet holds, unlike the vids); I'm not really into the "in for the feet but not the hands" vibe unless really necessary. I inverted to double toe-hooks and some hand shenanigans to release
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Looking at my own video below i do actually put my right heel in the bullit hold after going for the lip.
Felt a bit eliminate but once you pull on feels logical.
https://vimeo.com/326682981
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I did the moves a couple of years ago but didn't manage to link it. I think my sequence was the same as Dave's.
When I went back last autumn, the left hand that Dave goes to on the lip was no longer there. The scar has left a hold but it is further away and much worse. It was already quite a spanned deadpoint for me with the old hold so I wrote it off.
It looks like Luke Dawson's method going right hand first should still work. I don't think I ever tried that.
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https://vimeo.com/326682981
Looked very steady! (and a quiet expletive :D )
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Thanks all. I think that sdm is right and the hold that Davo goes to is the one that's now broken; assuming that's correct, I tried going further left to a pretty positive crimp (which is miles away and seems really tough to get accurately as there's a bit of a lip above it) and right of the broken hold to a small pinch. Both tough, but at least now I can go back and focus on not being able to do the moves rather than agonising over whether I'm even using the right holds - much appreciated.